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Pocher 1:4 Ducati Panigale S ‘Anniversario’ + ‘Final Edition

Peter Voogt said:
Made some time to work on the Duc as well.
The block is mostly finished:
View attachment 526396
Compared to the Anniversario model with the extra added items, I added some extra-extra tubes and wires. I found the manual from Autograph that released a very detailed set for the Duc. Only that set is quite expensive ......... about 2x the price of the Pocher kit. :oops:
View attachment 526397

Then I'm going to scratch build some things from that manual.
I'm going to apply it to the exhaust system:
View attachment 526398
Just like with the previous model (see insert), all screw holes (A) will be closed.
Then I take the part apart again and all thickenings (B) are sanded away, all seams will be filled and the entire exhaust is sanded, with the exception of both end-muffers.
As an idea of what I'm going to do:
-various flanges and welds,
-clamps,
-flat control with wiring,
-2 Lambda sensors,
And what I'm going to pay most attention to: the weathering of all this so that it looks like it's had to work hard. With a heavy discoloration of the exhaust.
I will try to make pictures of the several steps.
Regards, Peter
Click to expand...
This is going to be great! Looking forward to seeing more.
 
First I started by removing the flanges:
010 Flang.jpg
At arrow A it is still there, on the left it is gone.
Between arrows B the seam between both parts can be seen. Although the fit of the parts at Pocher is very neat, these types of seams are even more present after spraying.

Another example:
011 Flang.jpg
In the left image I am filing the raised left part between the arrows. A clear sharp edge can still be seen.
In the left image the raise is gone. In order not to look at a flat surface I have turned the part to the left and right while filing, which allows me to maintain an even round shape.

The rough work is done:
012 sand and fill.jpg
On both parts all holes filled with pieces of the frame from which the parts come. The frame parts have exactly the diameter of the screw holes. All seams filled with a filler and then everything sanded.
013 1st layer.jpg
And provided with the first layer of primer. I can now further smooth out all the small irregularities.
Regards, Peter
 
After sanding, filling and sanding again I started applying the details:
014 2nd layer.jpg
A: the weld lines, made of Evergreen 0.5 mm wire that I hammered with a sharp hammer,
B: the flanges of Evergreen 0,25 mm sheet , some of which have 2 layers, with adjacent welds,
C: 2 holes for the Lambda sensors. The hole for the exhaust flap control is not visible.
Also decided to paint both end-muffers so that the color will be more in line of the rest. A plus for that decision was that Paul Koo has put muffer decals in his kit. And tiny torx bolts for attaching the end grids. Therefore 2x4 tiny holes drilled.
Then both parts provided with a new base layer. This has to be sanded again before I can start with the actual colors.
Regards, Peter
 
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Peter Voogt said:
After sanding, filling and sanding again I started applying the details:
View attachment 527534
A: the weld lines, made of Evergreen 0.5 mm wire that I hammered with a sharp hammer,
B: the flanges of Evergreen 0,25 mm sheet , some of which have 2 layers, with adjacent welds,
C: 2 holes for the Lambda sensors.
The hole for the exhaust flap control is not visible.
Then provided with a new base layer. This has to be sanded again before I can start with the actual colors
Regards, Peter
Click to expand...
Looks great! Going to be very realistic when done. ;)
 
Before I can start painting, I want to have all the other parts ready. Like 2 types of clamps.
015 Clamps.jpg
Above a large clamp consisting of 2 half brackets. Below a band clamp. With a view on the several weld lines ........ ;)

Some pictures of how I made them.
016 Clamps.jpg
The 2 half brackets are made of Evergreen 2 mm half round. On one side they are held together with a square bracket. On the other side the clamp is tightened with a M 0.8 mm bolt.

017 Clamps.jpg
The band clamps are made of Evergreen 0.25 x 2.5 mm strip.
A: First I made the loop on one side where I cut out the slot. With 2 loose loops that have to be glued in the right place on the strip. Also 4 pieces of Evergreen 1.6 mm rod with a 0.8 mm hole.
B: The strip held around the flange to determine where the loose loop should go.
C: The loose loop glued, the 2 bushings inserted and the holes aligned.
D: Then you get these band clamps.
Regards, Peter
 
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And it was time for me to start spraying both parts of the exhaust:
018 Metal Paint.jpg
The whole thing in Titanium as the basic layer.

The Autograph manual advised using AK's XTREME METAL. Bought a set of the recommended colours:
019 Metal Paint.jpg
This paint is new to me but I really liked it.:) Used straight from the bottle. It can be applied very thinly. If you get a wet spot somewhere, it will flow away nicely into the paint you spray around it. As soon as I was at the end of a part, I could already apply the next layer, etc. etc. etc. Until I had an overall even coverage.

For the EXTREME METAL range they also have a Thinner&Cleaner (AK470). And I used the Primer&Microfiller (AK759) for the base layer.
The advice was to also use ALCLAD II's HOTMETAL RED. I couldn't find it anywhere and that brand has apparently been replaced by A-STAND.
When everything is properly dry, the other colours are applied according to the Autograph manual. It looks impressive there. Hopefully it will be the same for me soon.......;)
Regards, Peter
 
Steef66 said:
Your keen eye for detail is so extra extraordinarily refined. Again, a part that can not be mistaken from real.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Stephan. Most of the credits goes to the manual of Autograph. Only they made the parts in the special kit and I have to make them scratch. But it give me more satisfaction then “use this piece, glue it that that piece, paint it Titan etc ….”.
Regards, Peter
 
After using the recommended colors, now the final step:
020 Painted.jpg
In terms of logical recommended steps, build up from light to dark.
After the Titanium, the Metallic Blue, the Copper + Bronze and finally the Pale Burn Metal/Jet Exhaust and some Hot Metal Red.

Then carefully applied to the engine:
021 Installed.jpg
The end muffers provided with the little torx-bolts and decals from the Paul Koo kit

The other side:
022 Installed.jpg
With a insert with a bit more view of the parts at the connection to the main-muffler. Lightened the dark parts a little.

A view of all the pipes and bends:
023 Installed.jpg
The exhaust gases first go to the muffler under the engine and then to the two rear mufflers.

Not quite perfect but I'm still happy with this new genre for me: special paint and wheathering.
Regards, Peter
 
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While the Balder's various paint stages were drying, I took the time to work on the Duc as well.
I made a few modules that can now be assembled:
024 Modules.jpg

First, the airbox with part of the front fork attached on top:
025 Airbox.jpg
Everything is balancing on a section of the exhaust, so I have to hold it in place.

The rear frame with covers:
026 Rear.jpg
When assembling the modules, it's important to be careful how you hold and lay everything down. There are a lot of protruding parts.

The tank and seat have been installed, and this is how it looks now:
027 16-07.jpg
028 16-07.jpg
There are still a lot of cables and hoses sticking out. These will be connected piece by piece in the various subsequent steps.

The fuel filler cap itself is already nicely detailed. Made a little extra detail:
029 Tank.jpg
The fuel filler cap is closed with a small flap. When you open the flap, you can now see the lock opening. On the Pocher part, it was completely closed. So, I milled a small slot. The key can now be inserted, and then you can open the flap.
Fill it up ......:)
Regards, Peter
 
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