Pocher 1:4 Ducati Panigale S ‘Anniversario’ + ‘Final Edition

[Dean62]

Made some time to work on the Duc as well.
The block is mostly finished:
View attachment 526396
Compared to the Anniversario model with the extra added items, I added some extra-extra tubes and wires. I found the manual from Autograph that released a very detailed set for the Duc. Only that set is quite expensive ......... about 2x the price of the Pocher kit.
View attachment 526397

Then I'm going to scratch build some things from that manual.
I'm going to apply it to the exhaust system:
View attachment 526398
Just like with the previous model (see insert), all screw holes (A) will be closed.
Then I take the part apart again and all thickenings (B) are sanded away, all seams will be filled and the entire exhaust is sanded, with the exception of both end-muffers.
As an idea of what I'm going to do:
-various flanges and welds,
-clamps,
-flat control with wiring,
-2 Lambda sensors,
And what I'm going to pay most attention to: the weathering of all this so that it looks like it's had to work hard. With a heavy discoloration of the exhaust.
I will try to make pictures of the several steps.
Regards, Peter

This is going to be great! Looking forward to seeing more.

 

[Peter Voogt]

This is going to be great! Looking forward to seeing more.

Thanks, Dean. It was quite exciting and a challenge to tackle these parts rigorously.
Regards, Peter

 

[Peter Voogt]

First I started by removing the flanges:

At arrow A it is still there, on the left it is gone.
Between arrows B the seam between both parts can be seen. Although the fit of the parts at Pocher is very neat, these types of seams are even more present after spraying.

Another example:

In the left image I am filing the raised left part between the arrows. A clear sharp edge can still be seen.
In the left image the raise is gone. In order not to look at a flat surface I have turned the part to the left and right while filing, which allows me to maintain an even round shape.

The rough work is done:

On both parts all holes filled with pieces of the frame from which the parts come. The frame parts have exactly the diameter of the screw holes. All seams filled with a filler and then everything sanded.

And provided with the first layer of primer. I can now further smooth out all the small irregularities.
Regards, Peter

 

[Peter Voogt]

After sanding, filling and sanding again I started applying the details:

A: the weld lines, made of Evergreen 0.5 mm wire that I hammered with a sharp hammer,
B: the flanges of Evergreen 0,25 mm sheet , some of which have 2 layers, with adjacent welds,
C: 2 holes for the Lambda sensors. The hole for the exhaust flap control is not visible.
Also decided to paint both end-muffers so that the color will be more in line of the rest. A plus for that decision was that Paul Koo has put muffer decals in his kit. And tiny torx bolts for attaching the end grids. Therefore 2x4 tiny holes drilled.
Then both parts provided with a new base layer. This has to be sanded again before I can start with the actual colors.
Regards, Peter

 

[Dean62]

After sanding, filling and sanding again I started applying the details:
View attachment 527534
A: the weld lines, made of Evergreen 0.5 mm wire that I hammered with a sharp hammer,
B: the flanges of Evergreen 0,25 mm sheet , some of which have 2 layers, with adjacent welds,
C: 2 holes for the Lambda sensors.
The hole for the exhaust flap control is not visible.
Then provided with a new base layer. This has to be sanded again before I can start with the actual colors
Regards, Peter

Looks great! Going to be very realistic when done.

 

[Peter Voogt]

Before I can start painting, I want to have all the other parts ready. Like 2 types of clamps.

Above a large clamp consisting of 2 half brackets. Below a band clamp. With a view on the several weld lines ........

Some pictures of how I made them.

The 2 half brackets are made of Evergreen 2 mm half round. On one side they are held together with a square bracket. On the other side the clamp is tightened with a M 0.8 mm bolt.


The band clamps are made of Evergreen 0.25 x 2.5 mm strip.
A: First I made the loop on one side where I cut out the slot. With 2 loose loops that have to be glued in the right place on the strip. Also 4 pieces of Evergreen 1.6 mm rod with a 0.8 mm hole.
B: The strip held around the flange to determine where the loose loop should go.
C: The loose loop glued, the 2 bushings inserted and the holes aligned.
D: Then you get these band clamps.
Regards, Peter

 

[Peter Voogt]

And it was time for me to start spraying both parts of the exhaust:

The whole thing in Titanium as the basic layer.

The Autograph manual advised using AK's XTREME METAL. Bought a set of the recommended colours:

This paint is new to me but I really liked it. Used straight from the bottle. It can be applied very thinly. If you get a wet spot somewhere, it will flow away nicely into the paint you spray around it. As soon as I was at the end of a part, I could already apply the next layer, etc. etc. etc. Until I had an overall even coverage.

For the EXTREME METAL range they also have a Thinner&Cleaner (AK470). And I used the Primer&Microfiller (AK759) for the base layer.
The advice was to also use ALCLAD II's HOTMETAL RED. I couldn't find it anywhere and that brand has apparently been replaced by A-STAND.
When everything is properly dry, the other colours are applied according to the Autograph manual. It looks impressive there. Hopefully it will be the same for me soon.......
Regards, Peter