Prins Willem V.O.C 1651 from Corel.

Dirk any completed planking (even if it is only one side) is an accomplishment. Well done.
 
Thanks @Heinrich
The planking is not verry hard to do but time is my bigest enemy.
But it gives me always a good feeling if it's smooth and do not have gaps.
I have to sand a little bit more but is gonna be smooth as a mirror ;):p
 
After the Race of Max Verstappen today I continued with the Prins Willem.

The hull is closed.
I sanded the hull with sandingpaper 100.
And the next step is sandingpaper 400

And on some pictures my little buddy is sleeping on the background
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Hahaha @Steef66 don't give a @#$% abouth F1.;)
But today I watched for the 1st time of my life a race because a Dutchman can take the world championship for the 1st time in history.
I was happy to see that but 30 minutes later I continued the build.:cool:
 
The stern work is very good Dirk and your build is taking on the very definitive shape of the Prins Willem beautifully. The only recommendation I would make is that you create a sanding stick which is the exact measurements of the gun ports to ensure perfectly square ports.
 
Excellent work so far. May I recommend that on your next ship, you plank both sides in even pairs of planks, port and starboard. Doing one side completely runs the risk of causing a small bend or twist in the keel that when you look at the hull end on, becomes evident, and very disappointing. Now that the first layer of planking is done, look for non-symmetrical bumps or eggs in the hull as well as flat spots. Try to raise the flat spots with filler and sand those areas to blend them in with the curves of the hull in adjacent spots. The more time you spend filling and sanding and staring at the hull until your eyes fall out and locate every bump and flat, the better your hull shape will look when you add the final planking. Shortcuts create visible flaws that will eat away at your satisfaction with the work, especially since you as the builder always will be the harshest critic of your model. Looking forward to following the rest of this build log!
 
Heinrich said:
that you create a sanding stick
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I have anough nailpolishing sticks(200/320) from wood. I will cut one in shape and go sanding again. Grrrrr. Cautious:p

DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
you plank both sides in even pairs of planks, port and starboard.
Click to expand...
I did..
But to halfway the hull, and than I finished one side.
The problem you describe comes if the planks are soking full of water and the wood gets bigger. When the planks dry's, the wood gets smaller and the hull comes under a big tension.
I only wet the panks for 5 minutes and only the parts that I have to bend. So I'm not scared that the hull gets warped.



@Heinrich @DARIVS ARCHITECTVS
Thanks for the positive feedback
 
The advice of Kurt is a good advice, (@DARIVS ARCHITECTVS ) because that is the only way you keep both side the same. You can also work quicker because one side is drying and you can go on to the other side. Also the tension between both side stays the same. Reason is not the wet wood but the glue that dries up.
 
@Steef66
Is the ship I make bended?

I do not use woodglue for planking. I only used woodglue for the inside of the hull for extra firmness. For the rest I use superglue.
That is drying so fast that before I start the next plank ist already dry (but etleast in less than 10 seconds).
I made all of my ships this way an non of them are bended.

Thanks for the tip again.
 
JDS73 said:
@Steef66
Is the ship I make bended?

I do not use woodglue for planking. I only used woodglue for the inside of the hull for extra firmness. For the rest I use superglue.
That is drying so fast that before I start the next plank ist already dry (but etleast in less than 10 seconds).
I made all of my ships this way an non of them are bended.

Thanks for the tip again.
Click to expand...
It's not only the shrinking of planks and the drying and tightening of PVA glue that can bend a hull, it's the fact that each plank you add places more stress on the framework. Think of each plank as a rubber band. One or two planks seem easy to bend and hold in place with glue. The sum of all the planks applied to only one side may bend or twist the entire hull out of position. That's the fastest way to ruin your model before you get very far in construction. The old timers tend to make sure that each plank is pre-shaped with as little bending forced required as possible before gluing/pinning it to the frames. Many of us (me included) tend to band the planks over the frames with a preforming performed only at the bow and pre-twisting only at the stern for the deadwood. This is usually not a problem if the framework is reinforced with blocks or filled with balsa, or the planks are installed in pairs, port and starboard. Examine the hull from bow and from stern to detect any twist early. Adding strategically placed reinforcement blocks to the framework and allowing them to dry may correct a bad twist even after a few of the first pairs of planks have been laid near the waterline or above or at the keel. Steef66 made a great point when he also mentioned that adding the planks this way allows you to work much faster. The plank on the opposite side you are working on is dry before you go back to that side to add the next plank. First layer planking is fun for me, more than making dozens of cannon assemblies. You can see the ship taking shape before your eyes.

JDS73, you're off to a great start, judging from the pictures. The Corel models, being smaller than average at 1:100, tend to have just enough frames in the hull design to create curves without too many hard bends or flat spots, but only just enough. Larger models kits occasionally require balsa fill blocks or tween frames added to keep the shape clean.
 
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DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
The Corel models, being smaller than average at 1:100
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I don't know if there is any Prins Willem in 1:100 scale beside the scratch models.
This is my first model from Corel so I don't have enough experience with this brand to decide if there models are smaller or bigger.
Until I started this model I only made Spanish brands like Occre and Artesania Latina.
Corel is different in all ways.
 
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