Rattlesnake by MS

I like your cleats. Did they come with the kit?


Aftermarket. The white metal cleats are fine for some applications but I really like the wooden cleats. All those on Rattlesnake are from Chuck Passaro and are nice enough but do require some shaping after you pop them out of the form, laser-cut they are. On my next ship I think I'm going to try the wooden cleats from this place. From the pics they appear to be already pre-shaped.
 
Aftermarket. The white metal cleats are fine for some applications but I really like the wooden cleats. All those on Rattlesnake are from Chuck Passaro and are nice enough but do require some shaping after you pop them out of the form, laser-cut they are. On my next ship I think I'm going to try the wooden cleats from this place. From the pics they appear to be already pre-shaped.
They do look nice there. I just ordered some small blocks from them the other day for my cannons.
 
I worked on the truck for the Mizzen Mast for quite a while. Nothing looked right. I finally ended up cutting off a length of 2mm dowel and shaped the top so it was curved. Then I drilled two holes along the side of the truck. We are talking tiny tiny differences here. What I did was to temporarily glue a toothpick into the divet I created in the bottom of the truck (to sit on top of the mast). Then drilled the tiny holes so they wouldn't interfere with the mast. These two holes represent the pully that will eventually carry the rope for whatever flag/pennant I install.

I ordered some pennants, to scale, one for each of the masts. I plan on spelling out my name in the international marine semaphore code.

One the end of the Gaff will go the 13 stars American flag.

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Finished the anchors. I wasn't happy at all with the white metal anchor timbers so I fabricated my own. I didn't have any walnut lathes near enough so I just used a walnut strip I had lying around from a previous project.

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Finished with the anchors and then I realized I have a zero supply of 3 sheave blocks for the cathead. I ordered some (and some pear wood cleats for future projects) and worked on the National Ensign (American Flag for the rest of ya'll). One single block hung from the gaff with the .20 tan line run through and down to two cleats attached to the rail and finished with rope coils. Still waiting on my signal flags so I can spell my name from the three masts.

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I'm having second thoughts on installing signal flags. I need some advice. First, would these "international standard" signal flags even been in existence when Rattlesnake was sailing the ocean in the late 1700s? Second, I'm not sure I even need them. Thoughts?

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Long story short: No, USS Rattlesnake did not utilize international code signals because they were invented later, as was Howe's 1790 code because the ship existed in 1783. If signal flags were used, instead of the traditional method of relaying instructions by boat messenger, it may have been an earlier system used by the British, or a unique set of coded numerical signals created by the Americans to prevent British message interception.

What Google found:

In 1738, Mahé de la Bourdonniase, a French officer, developed the first numerical flag code, which served as the basis for later flag-hoist signaling. The numbering system vastly increased the combinations of communications a ship could make to 1,000 using three flags.

Modern naval code signalling began with the invention of maritime signal flags in the mid-17th century by the then-Duke of York (subsequently James II) who was created Lord High Admiral after the Restoration.

For US Ships:
he development of marine signaling in the United States Navy during this period paralleled that in Great Britain. Commodore Thomas Truxtun published a set of Instructions, Signals and Explanations Ordered for the United States Fleet in 1797, which was basically a numerary system along the lines of Howe's 1790 code. In 1809, however, Commodore David Porter issued a signal book to his squadron that went a small step beyond the Popham system. Once again, the basic signals were numerical, but rather than simply numbering the letters of the alphabet, Porter's letters involved hoisting the numeric flags inverted or in combinations that did not match their position in the alphabet. For example, the number 1 was signified by a solid red flag, but the letter A was divided horizontally blue over white. The letter K was not a combination of the 1 and zero flags, but of A and I. The randomness of the Porter code would have added considerable difficulty to an enemy's efforts to decipher a message. Like their British counterparts, however, Truxtun and Porter's systems were basically numeric--the numbers keyed to words and phrases in the code book--although from Porter's code onward there was also the capability to send "telegraphic" messages by spelling out individual words letter-by-letter. As in the Royal Navy, successive editions of the signal books contained the same basic flag designs, but with the numbers assigned to them rearranged. The purpose of these changes was clear--to guard against compromise of this sensitive tactical communications information. For the same reason, signal books were bound with heavy lead plates bolted to the covers so that they would sink to the bottom if a captain had them thrown overboard to prevent their capture.

In 1817, Captain Frederick Marryat of the Royal Navy published his Code of Signals for the Merchant Service. Based on the 1799 naval code, it was also a numeric system, but with a vocabulary oriented more toward commercial and less toward naval needs. Marryat's code was widely accepted, and by 1854 was known as the "Universal Code of Signals." In the United States, a number of codes were developed for the merchant marine, including James M. Elford's Universal Signal Book (1818), Richard Berrian's American Telegraphic and Signal Book (1823), and J. R. Parker's American Signal Book (1832). Parker's system was updated and improved in a number of successive editions and was eventually succeeded in 1847 by Henry J. Rogers' Rogers and Black's American Semaphoric Signal Book for the Use of Vessels Employed in the United States Naval, Revenue and Merchant Service. As the title suggests, this volume was the first commercial signaling system adopted for use by the government for non-tactical communications. Rogers continued to publish revised editions of this work under various titles until 1856. A year later, a breakthrough in the science of marine communications made Rogers' system obsolete.
 
I'm having second thoughts on installing signal flags. I need some advice. First, would these "international standard" signal flags even been in existence when Rattlesnake was sailing the ocean in the late 1700s? Second, I'm not sure I even need them. Thoughts?

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The flags of the International Code of Signals were developed in 1857. They are used in the navy to transfer messages between ships. Until 1887, the code was called the "System of Code Signals for the Merchant Marine". The original vault consisted of 18 flags. On January 1, 1901, all maritime states adopted this code. In 1931, an international commission from 8 countries modified the signaling system.
 
STILL waiting on my 3 sheave blocks so I can finish Rattlesnake. I noticed on the plans (no mention whatsoever in the "instructions") that there is a chafing plate for the anchors. So I spent a little time and took care of that. All that's left is to mount the anchors.


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I'm literally a day from finishing Rattlesnake. All I have to do is mount the anchors. I always get like this at the end of a project. It's been a journey, just like my other projects, and I don't want it to end. She's been sitting there for six months.... I'm gonna get to it.

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I think the copper gives it a more real look. I did the constitution and the constellation with copper hull. For some reason I’m having more trouble understanding the MS instructions. I’m having to use experience from other ships on what to do. Would love to see your rigging plans. Just looking at the plan leaves a lot to imitation. I’d hate to rig up a single block only to find out later I needed a double. The other kits took a more step by step and showed the blocks b
 
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