patiently waiting for glue and sawdust to commence ,Greg.
ROYAL CAROLINE 1:30 by Zhl my version, by Peglegreg
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- royal caroline zhl
So am I, Brian.
At the beginning of the log, I stated that there will be protracted period of time before the first sawdust and glue to be used.....But the good news is 'the drought' is just about over. A few more days and I should be able to show you all the start of my build log. There is only one issue that I havta deal with.
I'm weighing up how deep to make the forms for strength at the chain plates verse the true thickness as it would have been. It's like 'Taking from Peter to give to Paul'. As the saying goes.
Again, I don't have any second chances, so I have to make it correct the first time. I'm edging on thicker rather than the true thickness. But HOW THICK IS TOO THICK? hmmm, decisions, decisions!
If you or anyone else have an idea please let me know!
Havagooday
Greg
Hi Greg,
Sounds like proper science you are working on.
Will be very interesting to see your new creation taking shape.
Looking forward to it.
Regs Maarten
Sounds like proper science you are working on.
Will be very interesting to see your new creation taking shape.
Looking forward to it.
Regs Maarten
Thanks Maarten
Helpfully today I'll be able to make my 'pendulum' stand for the yacht and clean up all the merbau for the hull, that will have to go in it.
I've got a lot of work on my thickness-sizer planner to do. All measurements must be exact.
Havagooday and thanks for watching.
Greg
Helpfully today I'll be able to make my 'pendulum' stand for the yacht and clean up all the merbau for the hull, that will have to go in it.
I've got a lot of work on my thickness-sizer planner to do. All measurements must be exact.
Havagooday and thanks for watching.
Greg
G'day Janos
I'm making dust now...
The car is in the driveway away from the dust!
I'm working on the stand at the moment and all the hardwood pieces has been planned down to the correct size.The car is in the driveway away from the dust!
Oh dear, I thought, my phone just reminded me that I have a doctor's appointment. I'm so sad
that I have to stop very early, just when I got my rhythm going.Hopfuly, I can get some work done tomorrow!
Havagooday and thanks for watching
Greg
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G'day all
I need some advice! As this is my first model that I'm putting a pedistal stand on the keel.
PLEASE HELP ME!
Are there ANY formula that I have to follow? As above or WHAT?
Or do you place it where it looks good?
Thanks and havagooday to all.
Greg
I need some advice! As this is my first model that I'm putting a pedistal stand on the keel.
PLEASE HELP ME!
Are there any rules to place the pedistal stands on the keel?
i.e. The distance (total lengthy of the keel) in a ratio from the bow and the keel, e.g. 1/4 length from the bow and stern and 1/2 length between each pedistal.
i.e. The distance (total lengthy of the keel) in a ratio from the bow and the keel, e.g. 1/4 length from the bow and stern and 1/2 length between each pedistal.
Are there ANY formula that I have to follow? As above or WHAT?
Or do you place it where it looks good?
Thanks and havagooday to all.
Greg
hey Greg,
a big heavy model like yours could easily have 3 pedestals for stability.
a big heavy model like yours could easily have 3 pedestals for stability.
G'day Brian
If I don't think there's going to be enough stability, I was going to add 2 stands on the side of the hull 'mid-ship'. I really don't want to do that because it will take away the beauty of the hull.
Havagooday
Greg
If I don't think there's going to be enough stability, I was going to add 2 stands on the side of the hull 'mid-ship'. I really don't want to do that because it will take away the beauty of the hull.
Havagooday
Greg
Hi Greg,
The model is standard fixed on two pedestals so you would expect the false keel can handle this.
If uou dont trust the standard fitting you can consider now to incorporate a construction with something like an m8 stud which you fix into the keel with epoxy. When fitting the vessel you can put nice brass pedestals over the m8 studs.
Regs Maarten
The model is standard fixed on two pedestals so you would expect the false keel can handle this.
If uou dont trust the standard fitting you can consider now to incorporate a construction with something like an m8 stud which you fix into the keel with epoxy. When fitting the vessel you can put nice brass pedestals over the m8 studs.
Regs Maarten
G'day Maarten
I do trust the keel to hold the weight, but I don't think it will be strong enough if the ship was bumped. The torque at the keel would be enormous if the the masks were pushed even a slight way.
That is why I'm doing an 'overkill' and I'll be using M12 high tensile bolts. The area where the bolts will go at the keel will be strengthened with 2 blocks bolted together of 30mm merbau timber (both sides) which will be placed between the bulkheads 4/5 & 8/9.
The long nuts will be encased in the merbau so it will not move. The top bolts will be cut down a little and they will be used to carry the electrical supply for the LEDs.
Did I say OVERKILL? It's better be safe than sorry!
Havagooday and thanks for watching.
Greg
I do trust the keel to hold the weight, but I don't think it will be strong enough if the ship was bumped. The torque at the keel would be enormous if the the masks were pushed even a slight way.
That is why I'm doing an 'overkill' and I'll be using M12 high tensile bolts. The area where the bolts will go at the keel will be strengthened with 2 blocks bolted together of 30mm merbau timber (both sides) which will be placed between the bulkheads 4/5 & 8/9.
The long nuts will be encased in the merbau so it will not move. The top bolts will be cut down a little and they will be used to carry the electrical supply for the LEDs.
Did I say OVERKILL? It's better be safe than sorry!
Havagooday and thanks for watching.
Greg
Hi Greg,
Looks your stand wil be bomb proof, but indeed better safe than sorry.
I am not so afraid for the torque, this only occurs when you fix the stand to a table or so, otherwise the complete stand will move and the torque is limited. Offcourse your ship will be heavier due to the alterations.
Regs Maarten
Looks your stand wil be bomb proof, but indeed better safe than sorry.
I am not so afraid for the torque, this only occurs when you fix the stand to a table or so, otherwise the complete stand will move and the torque is limited. Offcourse your ship will be heavier due to the alterations.
Regs Maarten
Some good idea's there Maarten and Greg, I was thinking of just using a small cradle amidships to stop any side ways movement an using the supplied pillars at the bow and stern, will maybe have to think about it a bit more,
best regards John.
best regards John.
G'day John
If you are going to add some extra pillars on the hull, that should be fine, but make sure these extra pillars will be placed under the bulkhead, not just on the planking. For obvious reasons!
Havagooday mate
Greg
If you are going to add some extra pillars on the hull, that should be fine, but make sure these extra pillars will be placed under the bulkhead, not just on the planking. For obvious reasons!
Havagooday mate
Greg
At least I will know if a bomb will explode, the stand will be intake, but the model, may be blown to bits. LOL
Thanks for watching and havagooday
Greg
G'day all
I have been working on the drawings of how to work things out Before I start to build. I am a bit ahead of my self in designing each part that will be different from this incredible kit.
I feel I havta post this part now. I've been reading Maarten amazing logs, gees he is good, a true craftsman. I could NEVER do that fine work when he dough out the quarter window section.
I will NOT be doing that, because I can't, simple as that!
I'm thinking of using ONLY the carvings on the quarter windows and I'll make the whole section myself. There's another reason why I not using the whole thing as a unit. I think the shape is incorrect for the simple reason of the toilet door.
I believe that the door architrave would have been vertical, and the horizontal would follow the angle of the floor and be completely horizontal at the ceiling ceiling. Alsp, the hinge should be on the other side. It would BE IMPOSSIBLE to open the door as per the carvings which was taken from the drawings on AToS.
Sio what i'm proposing, the Quarter Window shouldn't be like this
But be like this
Greg
I have been working on the drawings of how to work things out Before I start to build. I am a bit ahead of my self in designing each part that will be different from this incredible kit.
I feel I havta post this part now. I've been reading Maarten amazing logs, gees he is good, a true craftsman. I could NEVER do that fine work when he dough out the quarter window section.
I will NOT be doing that, because I can't, simple as that!
I'm thinking of using ONLY the carvings on the quarter windows and I'll make the whole section myself. There's another reason why I not using the whole thing as a unit. I think the shape is incorrect for the simple reason of the toilet door.
I believe that the door architrave would have been vertical, and the horizontal would follow the angle of the floor and be completely horizontal at the ceiling ceiling. Alsp, the hinge should be on the other side. It would BE IMPOSSIBLE to open the door as per the carvings which was taken from the drawings on AToS.
Sio what i'm proposing, the Quarter Window shouldn't be like this
But be like this
I would like thoughts, comments etc on my reasonings plese before I go too far.
Havagooday allGreg
Hi greg,
No the atos drawings are right, in an English ship the verticall ribs of the galeries are even with the angle of the stern of the vessel, this in contradiction with a Dutch ship where the ribs are on 90 deg with the waterline. The horizontal lines are parallel to the whales in the dutch and the english vessels.
The door can definately be opened as the whole surface you see is not the door but only the inner part with the curve on the top. You see the bottom of the floor is about 15 to 20 cm above the floor which enables it to open under this angle. It is the 18th century when aestetics were going above simplicity, why would man otherwise wear wigs in those days? So the uncomfortable door is definately right just as the uncomfortable wigs.
Regs Maarten
No the atos drawings are right, in an English ship the verticall ribs of the galeries are even with the angle of the stern of the vessel, this in contradiction with a Dutch ship where the ribs are on 90 deg with the waterline. The horizontal lines are parallel to the whales in the dutch and the english vessels.
The door can definately be opened as the whole surface you see is not the door but only the inner part with the curve on the top. You see the bottom of the floor is about 15 to 20 cm above the floor which enables it to open under this angle. It is the 18th century when aestetics were going above simplicity, why would man otherwise wear wigs in those days? So the uncomfortable door is definately right just as the uncomfortable wigs.
Regs Maarten
G'day Maarten
Firstly, thank you for you feedback, much appreciated!
The both if us are only speculating on what is true or not in our own eyes. I valued your belief and I hope you do mine.
So: this is my point towards this subject.
Logically if the doors weights, say 20 kg, the king and queen would have to lift that weight, if was on an angle, BUT OPENING THE DOOR in an arch motion, and the fulcrum at the hinges would make that door a lot heavier, say 40 kg. I don't think any ROYAL BLOOD would process the necessary muscle straight to do that.
Even if the forms were on an angle, the section would have to be made as I suggested.
I have see a model on the net with the quarter windows as I have described, but looking at it on an angle looking down the length of the hull. The quarter windows looked like the AToS drawing. This is where, I believe, the confusion started.
Havagooday
Greg
Well that 2 against me, but with Janos is one of the two, with his vast experience, it's more like 11 against me! (I don't mean that you don't have a vast experience, Maarten, is that I know Janos personally and I valued his knowledge. Here I go again, wait for me to change feet from my mouth. Its not coming out how I wanted it to do!) I better shut up now, and act dumb! 
So
It looks like I havta work out how this will go for me using the design from AToS! Hmmmm I havta think!
Havagooday mate
Greg
So
It looks like I havta work out how this will go for me using the design from AToS! Hmmmm I havta think!
Havagooday mate
Greg
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