Saint Albans 1687 in Navy Board Style - 1 : 48 scale [COMPLETED BUILD]

There's not much to see at my shipyard at the moment.
This is due to the fact that I am currently building a lot of heaps but also renovating my house on the side: room by room is being whitewashed and also getting a new floor covering.

But back to the topic: I have prepared the gun port lids. Making and attaching the six tiny pins to the hinges (0.5mm diameter, 1.5mm length) was actually quite easy and went straight out of the box. As a representative, I provided a gun port with a wreath and the lid. On top of that is the pair of skids that used to pull cargo on board without damaging the ship's side.

The steps are aligned with the rear skid.

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Before the other gun port lids and the wreaths are attached, I want to build the upper cannon deck now. The deck planks are supposed to be made with segments made of slads. I first sawed out these slads in the right shape. Now I have to engrave the planks to the slads

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The capstans with their pawls are now on the decks and the outer skin now has the (final?) finish.

That's it for now. Now I will probably lay planks in the apartment first before I continue here.

Greetings, Alexander
 
Besides the renovation work in the house, I also found the opportunity to continue building on the model. It's a lot more fun!

The ledges (136 pieces) got the curvature of the deck and were fitted. You can see that the short carings were not used on this deck either. Only the two Long Carlings are built. This simplifies the work, but according to Franklin it was quite common in shipbuilding at the time. So there is a contract for the 80 gunship HUMBER from 1693, which calls for two tiers of carlings. The Boyne model from 1692 also shows this scheme. See Franklin "Navy Board Ship Models" p. 114.

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The planks are engraved with the deck boards and installed.

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They will be provided with scattered treenails later.


The production of rings.

To get rings in the correct dimensions, here is my approach:

A brass pin with the strength of the inner diameter is wrapped tightly with a brass wire.

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The winding is clamped so that the rings do not go astray when be cutted them with a cutting disc.

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The rings are separated with a 0.3 mm cutting disc.

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With two pliers, the ends of the individual rings are pressed together.

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That's it again. Thanks for your interest!

Greetings, Alexander
 
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Manufacturing the eyebolts

For the eyebolts I used the "Princess Royal 1773" as a guide. Rob Napier has the following picture of an original eyebolt in his book. You can see that the wire has been flattened.

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So I sanded approx. 40 cm of brass wire (0.7 mm) over the spindle sander until the cross-section was semicircular. This wire can then be bent in a very narrow bay with ring pliers. The ring is then clamped in between and the eyebolt is ready.

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In the waist I have attached the massive-looking covering-board. The eyebolts can be easily inserted if you sharpen the shaft a little.

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Merry Christmas to everyone!
Greetings, Alexander
 
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Since last year summer I've been trying tocut our the gratings. The material is grain-cut boxwood

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A lot of work, but the result was rather disappointing. I just couldn't get the cut-outs really symmetrical. Man's eye is incorruptible. The former model builders could do that much better.

Here is the result:

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The yellow hue of the boxwood is also annoying.

In two days I made the grating with the fine-cut circular saw and it looks a lot better.

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Greetings, Alexander
 
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Foxtrott said:
A lot of work, but the result was rather disappointing. I just couldn't get the cut-outs really symmetrical. Man's eye is incorruptible. The former model builders could do that much better.
Click to expand...
Hello Alexander. Out of curiosity, Is there any particular reason for making gratings this way? The standard way looks much better!
 
Hi Jimsky

when you examine the gratings it is difficult to judge how they were made. They are just perfect. I suspect that the reason for the old design was that they had no thin saw blades.

Pierced gratings are seen on some models until at least as late as the 1730s, but from early in the eiighteens century built ones begin to appear and become common on most of the better quality models by around 1720.

Here a picture of the original model:

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The rear grating is built. The odd position of the hole in the foreground (1) is an indication.

The grating before the main mast (2) probably is a restaurated grating which is added later. I belive, this grating is built. You can see that at this grating the direction of the upper layers are wrong. Normally the upper layer has to run along the ship's axis.

Cheers Alexander
 
I fully agree with Willi and shota70 and all other likers !
Really good work on the bitts-carvings.....
BTW: I like the way you are presenting the masts (Mast-Stümpfe) - It is a good idea to show them like a broken mast directly after a hurican
 
Thanks a lot for your positive feedback.

Willi: I don't feel on the home straight yet. More like being in the middle of it all. But the end of such projects often comes very unexpectedly.

Uwe: It is not easy to make a broken mast look fine and natural. I perforated the mast radially at the desired point with a small drill and then broke it. I carved away the remains of the drill holes that were still visible with carving knives.

Cheers Alexander
 
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