Uwe you can find every step in the videos Shelk uploaded here.
Yes you are right, nevertheless there are several points which are not clear only by the videos . fe. the red weathered sidewalls I did not see.......Uwe you can find every step in the videos Shelk uploaded here.
It will be on one of the next videos in more detail, but i'll write the steps anyway
in case of the red walls:
-dark oak stain, let it dry to the touch
-sand with 60 grit until there's only some oak left
-a couple generous coats of isopropilic alchool+indian ink solution (mine is 40 drops to 200ml of alchool), let it dry after the 2 coats
-depending on the look after dry, i might do a 3rd aplication of the alchool with indian ink if i want it the gray to be darker
-matt varnish coat, let it dry
-apply chipping effects layer, let it dry, i use valejo, you can do this with hairspray too, or an other brand of chipping effects i guess
-paint with red, thin layer of paint is better for this, so i use airbrush, it's not mandatory, but makes next step easyer and more controlable
allow paint to dry, now this is important step, the more the paint dries the harder it will be to chip, but if it's not dry enough it will peel too easy, i dry it for 3-4 minutes under the AC, it might take a couple of times to dial in what is our prefered point. Because of this i never work on many pieces at once, or very big areas
-with a brush put water on top of the paint, wait a bit (the more water and the longer it sits there the easyer the chipping is), then with a brush, i prefer harder brushes for this, start poking and scraping the paint and some of it will come out, stop when you like the look of it.
The process will be detailed on one of the next videos, but the videos are always a little bit behind the building process and the build log
You can also chek youtube and do searchs for:
valejo chipping medium
mig chipping effects
chipping with hairspray
All of those will give you a good idea of how this chipping works on plastic models, the difference on wood is that you nead a coat of varnish to prevent the medium and the paint from beeing absorbed by the wood
A similar effect can be obtained with the salting technique, but for me that technique is better for larger areas, not for smaller pieces
forgot to mention, the chipping effects is sticky and shiny even after dry, both go away, don't get scared by it
in case of the red walls:
-dark oak stain, let it dry to the touch
-sand with 60 grit until there's only some oak left
-a couple generous coats of isopropilic alchool+indian ink solution (mine is 40 drops to 200ml of alchool), let it dry after the 2 coats
-depending on the look after dry, i might do a 3rd aplication of the alchool with indian ink if i want it the gray to be darker
-matt varnish coat, let it dry
-apply chipping effects layer, let it dry, i use valejo, you can do this with hairspray too, or an other brand of chipping effects i guess
-paint with red, thin layer of paint is better for this, so i use airbrush, it's not mandatory, but makes next step easyer and more controlable
allow paint to dry, now this is important step, the more the paint dries the harder it will be to chip, but if it's not dry enough it will peel too easy, i dry it for 3-4 minutes under the AC, it might take a couple of times to dial in what is our prefered point. Because of this i never work on many pieces at once, or very big areas
-with a brush put water on top of the paint, wait a bit (the more water and the longer it sits there the easyer the chipping is), then with a brush, i prefer harder brushes for this, start poking and scraping the paint and some of it will come out, stop when you like the look of it.
The process will be detailed on one of the next videos, but the videos are always a little bit behind the building process and the build log
You can also chek youtube and do searchs for:
valejo chipping medium
mig chipping effects
chipping with hairspray
All of those will give you a good idea of how this chipping works on plastic models, the difference on wood is that you nead a coat of varnish to prevent the medium and the paint from beeing absorbed by the wood
A similar effect can be obtained with the salting technique, but for me that technique is better for larger areas, not for smaller pieces
forgot to mention, the chipping effects is sticky and shiny even after dry, both go away, don't get scared by it
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Essa parte do navio (as amuradas) em inglês é "bulwarks".
Bom trabalho.
JL
Bom trabalho.
JL
Absolutely remarkable build and accomplishments. The weathering and "wearing" of Carriage tracks and chipping of Bulwarks (red) are incredibly realistic.
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I am giving myself kick in the ………
Never thing that you will make proper cabin so did not give you the proper information
Here the layout for the cabin the door are on the side not front and you have 4 of them, not an issue but good to know.
Also another consideration all the gun on that deck are the same be careful if you use the gun stud for the 6 that are inside the cabin and the one under the deck at the bow that they have the same muzzle of the one that are under the deck at the lunch berth.
Last hint the kit do not mention the 4 chase gun that are on the level of the first deck at the stern something that you might be interested to consider.
Never thing that you will make proper cabin so did not give you the proper information
Here the layout for the cabin the door are on the side not front and you have 4 of them, not an issue but good to know.
Also another consideration all the gun on that deck are the same be careful if you use the gun stud for the 6 that are inside the cabin and the one under the deck at the bow that they have the same muzzle of the one that are under the deck at the lunch berth.
Last hint the kit do not mention the 4 chase gun that are on the level of the first deck at the stern something that you might be interested to consider.
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Here a photo of the model at the Madrid museum of the stern with the 4 gun port
I can't make it that accurate anymore, the staining on the deck leads to doors there, so i keep the doors in the front, further details so far back are simply not seen because it's so low and covered, and i like the doors to be seen
I have other cannons for the kit, they açll the same scale, so... there won't be any big difference between the cannons on all decks, except for the carronades that you kindly pointed out
the cannons on the second deck, i was thinking i would have to extend the deck to accomodate the cannon rigging, so they wouldn't be visible, so i set up for dummy cannons, now i know those were carronades, and i will not extend the deck anymore, i haven't decided how to adress it yet
we will see how it turns out...
I have other cannons for the kit, they açll the same scale, so... there won't be any big difference between the cannons on all decks, except for the carronades that you kindly pointed out
the cannons on the second deck, i was thinking i would have to extend the deck to accomodate the cannon rigging, so they wouldn't be visible, so i set up for dummy cannons, now i know those were carronades, and i will not extend the deck anymore, i haven't decided how to adress it yet
we will see how it turns out...
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We got an animated discussion in a French forum recently about the look of gun for a build of the S.R.
It was in the end 50/50
On one end people went kind of your look
On the other end was a cleaner look
Ok my opinion and again it all depend of your desire as a finish model it is your build not mine
The St was the pride of the Spanish Navy I do not believed that any gunnery officer will have let gun without having them rub and clean properly the carriage yes maybe gun powder might have stain them but the gun themselves…
Small historical fact about the S.T. on the 21 of October 1805 at Trafalgar.
The ship was the flag ship of the rear Admiral Baltasar Hidalgo de Cisneros
The Admiral before the battle did know that the Spanish navy was in poor condition.
Ships short of sailor, bad moral, a good portion sick and they where under train.
So he order the ship to be repaint it is him that order the hull paint red something that was kind of not the Spanish Navy tradition. His goal was first to boost the moral of the crew second to attract the British so at Trafalgar the S.T. was clean and freshly paint and red.
And boy did she received the attention of the British
a lots of attention
It was in the end 50/50
On one end people went kind of your look
On the other end was a cleaner look
Ok my opinion and again it all depend of your desire as a finish model it is your build not mine
The St was the pride of the Spanish Navy I do not believed that any gunnery officer will have let gun without having them rub and clean properly the carriage yes maybe gun powder might have stain them but the gun themselves…
Small historical fact about the S.T. on the 21 of October 1805 at Trafalgar.
The ship was the flag ship of the rear Admiral Baltasar Hidalgo de Cisneros
The Admiral before the battle did know that the Spanish navy was in poor condition.
Ships short of sailor, bad moral, a good portion sick and they where under train.
So he order the ship to be repaint it is him that order the hull paint red something that was kind of not the Spanish Navy tradition. His goal was first to boost the moral of the crew second to attract the British so at Trafalgar the S.T. was clean and freshly paint and red.
And boy did she received the attention of the British
a lots of attentionI'm aware that no ship would reach the condition I making this one look, but I enjoy the process and it extends by a lot the time I enjoy building it, also honestly, it's not something you see everyday on the hobby
Considering all that, and how plain the kit is, I decided this was the kit to try it on
But I know from the start that this is not historically accurate, or a look that will appeal to everyone, the same way that gloss varnished ships don't appeal to me, this ship is ending up on the other end of the spectrum
I will always age and weather things a bit, but probably not as beaten up as this one, but I had to do at least one like this
We can always imagine it survived and was a bit mistreated in that hypothetical future...
Considering all that, and how plain the kit is, I decided this was the kit to try it on
But I know from the start that this is not historically accurate, or a look that will appeal to everyone, the same way that gloss varnished ships don't appeal to me, this ship is ending up on the other end of the spectrum
I will always age and weather things a bit, but probably not as beaten up as this one, but I had to do at least one like this
We can always imagine it survived and was a bit mistreated in that hypothetical future...
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Ok my opinion and again it all depend of your desire as a finish model it is your build not mine
[/QUOTE]
I build mine at the request of my older son and he want is at close as the S.T. at Trafalgar and with the research (got help from friend in Madrid) took me 8y to build. In a sense we put a bit of our soul in them and also a bit of the artist (builder) eye in them. and I respect that. So any comment or suggestion from my part as to be take not as critic but as a way to share the little bit of knowledge I have on the history of that ship.
And if you have ever the chance to go to Cuba go at the citadel they have a model of her I think it is 1/10 scale huge with cutaway for the inside.
[/QUOTE]
I build mine at the request of my older son and he want is at close as the S.T. at Trafalgar and with the research (got help from friend in Madrid) took me 8y to build. In a sense we put a bit of our soul in them and also a bit of the artist (builder) eye in them. and I respect that. So any comment or suggestion from my part as to be take not as critic but as a way to share the little bit of knowledge I have on the history of that ship.
And if you have ever the chance to go to Cuba go at the citadel they have a model of her I think it is 1/10 scale huge with cutaway for the inside.
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It might be Uwe it was a cooperation with a Canadian NGO organisation from Ontario to restore the 2 fortress of La Punta and La Fuerza and it was 1/25 scale not 1/10. Lots of my information about the ship came from following that build at the time.
Sadly the photo on the site of the construction are not available anymore
Sadly the photo on the site of the construction are not available anymore
Hi
A very realistic job.
It will be interesting to see the finished model.
Regards
A very realistic job.
It will be interesting to see the finished model.
Regards