Santisima Trinidad cross section Occre - bashed [COMPLETED BUILD]

I’ve always been impressed with builders that also work with metal and solder. Way beyond my skill set. But, now I need to get more skilled.
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Completed shaping the lower main yard, also knowing that for the first time I would also need to add Stuns’l Boom irons. Thought that I would use the 2 kit bits, but then decided that “scale look” was an issue (for me). This dilemma also created an opportunity to attempt to learn new skills. Making the rings was, of course, super simple.
Two possibilities just drill two holes through the small rings, add a rod, CA the three bits then paint black – or solder the three parts together then blacken the copper in a solution. My concern is that once I solder a rod to one ring then try to solder the second ring – the re-heat will disconnect the first two parts haha Or – brain just woke up - drill two holes through rings insert rod through each hole (at once) that go deeper through each ring, then solder both together – later cut the inside rod protrusions, dip in blackening solution – though I don’t think that the solder will turn black?
Need to spend some time here --- hmmmm! In any case the sails are done, but boom metal bits need to be fitted first. Also need to probably purchase a hobby torch or soldering gun, then determine what type of solder to use. Mates any help here would be greatly appreciated. I will also look at help sections here at SoS.
Cheers,

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Those rings are a definite improvement MichaelThumbsup

Now the black art of soldering:rolleyes:I used to be a dab hand at soft soldering and I thought I had lost my touch.Only recently I had discovered why I was having poor results,lead free solder!This may be a new politically correct product but it is the creation of the devil.It simply does not flow out like traditional products containing lead.
The next issue.Whilst the lead product is easier to use it has one disadvantage,it corrodes.Not in the short term,but long term,hence the dry joints in old electrical products.If a protective coating(eg paint) is applied then the risk of this is reduced.Not ideal though if you wish to blacken the part(special solution for blackening solder).It also gives of a corrosive gas.Believe it or not,models containing lead are banned from most museums.The Lead gasses off inside the models display case over the years and causes the model to detiorate.
Whilst it isn't necessary for structural reasons to use hard solder(eg silver) the corrosion issue is why some modellers prefer it.This produces a stronger joint but requires more heat.
If you intend to soft solder then I would recommend a temperature controlled soldering station.I bought one from the now defunct Maplins in the uk.These are not massively expensive but give you the option of using solders with different melting points so you can solder complex items without others coming apart you had already soldered(using a higher temperature solder).
If you plan on Silver soldering then you need a gas torch to produce the concentrated heat.I have a oxypropane plumbers blow torch I have used to do the little silver soldering I have done.This is overkill and if doing a lot,I would buy the torch made by Proxxon.
Hope this gives you a bit of background info Michael and helps you make a decision on what to buy.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Nigel

Thanks SO much! for your super detailed post. I saved a doc. of your notes for certainly future work.
After much thought, and given that I only need to attempt soldering work for only two yards - I am, instead working on a "plan B" that does not require soldering. Experimenting with ideas, and looking at examples from other builders that would look acceptable in this case. Will post an update after I've chosen, and worked out solutions.
Again thanks for your excellent notes.

Regards,
 
Michael again you amaze me with your creative thinking and "out of the box" solutionThumbsupThe etch fret looks like part of Dafis Victory offerings;)
Only criticism is possibly the copper tape looks a bit thin,if you heat a piece of the brass fret until red and allow to cool naturally to anneal it,then you could shape and bend a piece of this to suit.
Great work mate

,Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Well - thanks again Nigel !!! - need to sometimes come up with solutions that work-out "ok" -

Yes - you are indeed correct. When I was working on the Vasa, along with another member building the same ship we shared the cost of some of these Victory fittings. We split the bits in half - and I still have some excellent leftover hooks and such - scroll down to see - SO many bits available. This expensive complete set would add a huge amount of details to a Victory kit.


Cheers,
 
Hello Mates,

Minor update - finishing up the lower main yard. Nigel - your solution is indeed the best, but those small bits will get sort of "lost" when in the aggregate.
So decided instead on thick tape that I can curve to adhere to the yard sides. Then wrapped with pinstripe tape. May add two small nails to complete the look on each side. Yard hail rope bits came out ok. Comfortable so far. But need to "clean up" the under-side of the platform - photo shows too many badly finished bits.

As always thanks so much for your kind advice, dropping by and the likes.... Will now attach the completed sail (won't use the kit included - but made them up instead)

Cheers,

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Small update;

Decided not to use the kit included sails. Made some up here are a few pics. When it came time for stitching returned to a local sewing school and did a one-to-one session with one of the teacher's. She was also a great guide with the Vasa sails. Though this time I wanted to do a different look - hopefully more in scale. As always thanks for dropping by, the likes and such nice comments

Cheers,

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Indeed not so good. That said, from what I have seen in photos of kits before assembly that include sails, all seem to be "not so good" for builders
who want to add much more inscale detailing. And adding sails to a project increases the workload in large amounts requiring much added running rigging and many more bits as well. Kit provided blocks quality are also another problem --- hahaha
Furling kit included sails- IMO - makes the results much more "in scale" many look really excellent when finished!!. This allowing for a better view of the weather deck details as well.

My second build, the Vasa, had no sails provided by Corel, nor were there any running rigging sheets available for that kit - it was quite a challenge - BUT really learned so much - really enjoyed the process of understanding the purposes for each added rope. The work needed to actually sail these monster ships of those days must have been very difficult indeed.

For this ST - I'm trying to improve the way I made the sails compared to the Vasa. Scaling sails correctly is so difficult. Still learning.

Regards,
 
Very good work - and the sails are really looking very realistic - I would like to see much more often some posts of your progress and your way of doing some details.
Many Thanks for sharing with us.
 
I always do my one sail Michael not superb but usually better of what is supplied.

Your are superb it show the time put to do them Thumbsup
 
Maarten, Uwe, Charles, thanks for your kind words very much appreciated indeed.
I don't post too often since my shipyard is opened mostly on a part time basis. That said Uwe, thanks for your suggestion - I will
add some details with my future posts.Thanks so much for your interest in my current log. Mates thanks as well for all of your visits and likes - very encouraging,

I did find a spot for that fid mallet. haha and started with the upper shrouds - Please note that you can see glue spots on the back of the lower main mast - not an issue compact ship case will be mounted on a wall and ship will only be seen from the front.

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Hi Mates,

Max, Charles thanks so much for your kind comments.

Minor updates – been away, and decided to also give the shipyard a rest, but did manage to do a bit more recently.
1) Attached the topsail to its yard along with adding needed blocks.
2) Attached the shrouds and deadeyes to the lower platform
3) Now fixing into place the lantern wires.

note the backside is NOT “finished”. The ship will be fitted into a clear case, hung on a wall and only be seen from the front and to some extent the sides; so not an issue. Will do some lateral detailing to even the side edges a bit more uniformly.

Adding needed extra lengths of electrical wires and then hiding them along the sides.

Goop is perfect – it also serves as a sealant for the otherwise exposed connected wire twists. I thought of soldering the connections, but thought that they might create too much resistance especially when all the wires will then attach to a single battery.

FYI: purchased all of the lights and wires from Evan Designs (one of our retail sponsors)
Here are a few images -- as always thanks for dropping by….

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