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Hey Kodec,
That looks really great. What an amazing job! ... It really enhances the model's appearance.
You’re right — that would definitely be an alternative. Hammering it out on an anvil with a rounded chisel is a very traditional approach, but it would take a lot of time, consistency, and quite a bit of skill to keep everything symmetrical and repeatable. In theory, the CNC should be easier and more predictable, especially for fine, repetitive details.
Koen
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- Jan 21, 2022
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I would try to laser cut it and then compare results
I’d try laser-cutting and compare the results — sounds like a great test. I don’t own a cutter yet (maybe a Christmas present ). From what I’ve read, cutting brass with a laser is also not that easy. Suggestions?
Finished cutting the frieze pattern. I switched from the 0.12 mm brass sheet to 0.5 mm, as I couldn’t get consistent, repeatable results with the very thin material. With the thicker sheet the milling went much more reliably, and the outcome looks good to me — crisp enough for this scale. I’m now waiting for the plastic parts to arrive so I can complete the whole section and see how everything comes together.
Koen
Koen
WOW ! ! ! 
ABSOLUT PERFECT. WELL DONE MATE
I’ve been looking at the location of the chainwales in relation to the gunports, and I’m not entirely convinced about their current position. As they are now, the chainwales seem to interfere quite a lot with the gunports. My first instinct was to place them a bit higher — but I’m not sure that would be correct.
From a structural point of view, the fore and main shrouds are normally anchored below the upper gun deck, which would actually make the present location logical. So in that sense, the placement may well be right
. 
If the position is indeed correct, then the shrouds themselves would probably need to be arranged differently — more in line with the example shown below.
I’d really appreciate any advice or insight on this — would you keep the chainwales at this height and adjust the shrouds, or would you reposition the channels instead? As I mentioned earlier, the second option is the one I’m naturally leaning toward.
Koen
From a structural point of view, the fore and main shrouds are normally anchored below the upper gun deck, which would actually make the present location logical. So in that sense, the placement may well be right
. If the position is indeed correct, then the shrouds themselves would probably need to be arranged differently — more in line with the example shown below.
I’d really appreciate any advice or insight on this — would you keep the chainwales at this height and adjust the shrouds, or would you reposition the channels instead? As I mentioned earlier, the second option is the one I’m naturally leaning toward.
Koen
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Actually you should do both if you aim to make the model look historically accurate. The problem with chains cutting through gun port location requires stretching hull and relocating gunports. Just like @NMBROOK did with his. In your case I would rise the chainwales and try to place the deadeyes in a way the chains omit the gunports as much as it's possible.
Soleil Royal- Re-engineering Artesania Latina's New Kit by NMBROOK
Hi All I was determined not to buy any more kits as I have enough projects and pastimes to keep me going beyond retirement. However this release changed all that, I simply HAD to build it. Not because it is an amazing model straight out of the box but more a case that I realised the potential...
shipsofscale.com
Mr Sauinier dedicated a lot of time for his SR that's why I would trust his solution. This plan was made with his advice and recomandations. Unfortunetly Artesania made some shortcuts, so it needs a lot o changes to resemble something more accurate. Just compare the friez- it's not possible to fit
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Hello Koedec - Happy New Year!
I’ve been away for a while, but looking-in now. The frieze work in the heavier brass looks really great! Such an upgrade, and I look forward to all of the accompanying bits and baubels.
On the issue of chanels; for this time-period, the kit does correctly place them beneath the upper main deck guns. My inclination would be to keep the location, but make new chanels from scratch that do not interfere with the guns. This, of course, may be easier said than done, given the actual layout. Only you can make that determination.
Either way, she is really coming into form. Nice work on the quarter galleries!
I’ve been away for a while, but looking-in now. The frieze work in the heavier brass looks really great! Such an upgrade, and I look forward to all of the accompanying bits and baubels.
On the issue of chanels; for this time-period, the kit does correctly place them beneath the upper main deck guns. My inclination would be to keep the location, but make new chanels from scratch that do not interfere with the guns. This, of course, may be easier said than done, given the actual layout. Only you can make that determination.
Either way, she is really coming into form. Nice work on the quarter galleries!
As far as I can tell, channels above the main deck guns was a practice of the 1670’s and early 1680’s.
However, by the late 1680’s, it seems that by the 1690’s, they move below the main deck guns:
Some have theorized that this shift has to do with the fact that the upper main wale, or channel wale, is a more robust framing and anchor point for this element of the standing rigging.
However, by the late 1680’s, it seems that by the 1690’s, they move below the main deck guns:
Some have theorized that this shift has to do with the fact that the upper main wale, or channel wale, is a more robust framing and anchor point for this element of the standing rigging.
Many thanks for the valuable feedback, Marc and Wojtas. I’ll keep the current chainwale locations and try to position the deadeyes so the chains run clear of the gunports. It’s particularly challenging around the fore- and mizzen masts — but working through these challenges is part of what makes the hobby so rewarding. Wishing you all a great and healthy 2026!
My SR is still in the box, but I can use this info. Also thanks.