Sovereign of the Seas Mantua 1:78 Greatly Enhanced - Vince P. [COMPLETED BUILD]

I rigged the mizen topgallant forestays after building them on the jig. It was a piece of cake to keep them straight and tight. I think they turned out OK. I still have to build and rig the topmast forestays which are of the same construction. I also had to rig the topmast and topgallant backstays now because in order to pull the forestays tight, there had to be a counter force to keep the masts straight and the rigging taught. The kit does not address the backstays correctly and it is necessary to build little platforms like chain wales to attach to the stern end of each side of the ship. 5mm deadeyes and lanyards are rigged here to hold the backstays.

Vince P. Ship-1

pict0363.JPGpict0364.JPGpict0365.JPGpict0366.JPGpict0367.JPG
 
The standing rigging is now complete except for the lower mizzen shrouds. All of the running rigging for the mainmast and the forward running rigging for the mizzen is complete as well. This part was the most complex of the rigging by far. Next up is the aft running rigging for the mizzen and lateen yard. I must say that rigging is my favorite part of a build.

Vince P. Ship-1

pict0368.JPGpict0369.JPGpict0370.JPGpict0371.JPGpict0372.JPGpict0373.JPGpict0374.JPG
 
The mizzen lifts are rigged. The kit only shows a single lift that terminates at crowsfeet on the top of the lateen yard. I did some research and according to Anderson's book, English ships of war for the period that the SOS was built, had two lifts on those larger ships that had long and heavy lateen yards. The SOS certainly had the largest. I used 3mm deadeyes for the hub of the crowsfeet. A look at Doris's build log also shows double lifts.

Vince P. Ship-1

pict0375.JPGpict0376.JPGpict0377.JPG
 
The mizzen braces and all of the running rigging associated with the lateen yard are completed. Next up is the mizzen top flag and the poop deck flag pole and flag.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. She is very close to completed. Maybe 2 weeks or so.

I need some help. This model is VERY heavy and I need some sort of cradle for the display case. All of the pedestals and hull brackets like dolphins and the sort are either way too flimsy or too small. The wood cradle that came with the kit is pretty bad. Anybody got ideas where to go for a nice cradle? I have checked all of the supply companies and none have anything that will do.

Thanks,
Vince P. Ship-1

pict0378.JPGpict0379.JPGpict0380.JPGpict0381.JPGpict0382.JPG
 
The mizzen mast rigging in complete along with the flag, poop deck flag, and any remaining running rigging not previously completed. I have tied my last clove hitch on this baby.

The only thing left is to fish the anchors and maybe add some crew members (not decided yet). I have to research what the color scheme was for clothing.

Vince P. Ship-1

pict0386.JPGpict0387.JPGpict0388.JPGpict0389.JPG
 
Galley Slave said:
Stunning build Vince.
Way out of my league.
Click to expand...
Galley Slave said:
Stunning build Vince.
Way out of my league.
Click to expand...
Galley Slave said:
Stunning build Vince.
Way out of my league.
Click to expand...
That is what I thought too at one time. If you want to do it, you can. Just take the plunge and take your time. I am really just an average builder with a willingness to take on tougher projects. With all of the help you can get from real expert builders on forums like this, you can do it too. Give it a try.
Vince P. Ship-1
 
The last step in fishing the anchors. The kit does not mention anchor buoys, but ships had them to locate submerged anchors. I made some from 8mm round stock and rigged them with a sling I found illustrated in "The Period Ship Handbook #1". Shown is the rearmost starboard anchor secured to the channel. The forward anchor will be rigged hanging from the cathead just to illustrate stowing the anchors both ways, even though both would be lashed to the channel under full sail.

Vince P. Ship-1

pict0390.JPGpict0391.JPG
 
One last bit of kit bashing. I did some research since I am going to rig her with the bow anchors hanging from the catheads. Since the only thing holding these anchors is an open hook on the tackle block, there had to be a better way to secure the anchors from jarring loose. Ships of this period did have a solution. There was a half cleat with a sheave mounted on the side of the cathead. A rope called a "cathead blocker" was rigged by securing through a vertical hole in the cathead, passing through the anchor ring, up through the sheave in the half cleat, and finally tied off at the forward forecastle railing. I made the half cleats from some 4x4mm walnut stock, with a 3mm deadeye as the sheave.

Vince P. Ship-1

pict0392.JPGpict0393.JPGpict0394.JPG
 
I solved the cradle problem. The new kit "Royal William" from Euromodels which I just purchased for my next project, came with nice Walnut to make a cradle. I just recut it slightly to fit the SOS hull better and added red felt and a bronze label. It fits perfectly and is very stable and strong. I will use the template to make another for the Royal William.

Vince P. Ship-1

pict0396.JPGpict0397.JPGpict0398.JPG
 
I AM DONE !! SHE IS COMPLETED AND LOOKS PRETTY GOOD TO ME. I still have to post the rest of the belay diagrams on this log. I will try and get my hands on a good camera and take a bunch of various photos to post on the completed ship gallery. I am a little sad since she has occupied my every day for over 4 years.

Woo Woo !!
default_dancetl6.gif
default_dancetl6.gif
default_dancetl6.gif


Now on to an even more challenging project. The Royal William.

Vince P. Ship-1

pict0399.JPGpict0400.JPGpict0401.JPGpict0402.JPG
 
Here are the rest of the sail belay diagrams except for the mizzen lateen. That one will be done in a few days.

Vince P. Ship-1pict0262a.jpgpict0262b.jpgpict0262c.jpgpict0262d.jpgpict0306a.jpgpict0306b.jpgpict0306c.jpgpict0306d.jpgpict0341a.jpgpict0341b.jpgpict0341c.jpg
 
Here are the rigging diagrams for the lateen sail and yard, and the mizzen topmast and top gallant forestays. Remember the mizzen forestays are in pairs, so you have to do 2 of each for a total of 4. The diagrams show the pairs side by side. The numbers in the columns above the diagrams are the length of each section in millimeters.

Vince P. Ship-1

pict0399.jpgpict0400.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top