Sovereign of the Seas - Sergal 1:78 (with hopefully many added details)

[dockattner]

Wishing for a speedy recovery, my friend!

 

[GrantTyler]

Hi All,
Lologaditano, Grant, Rob @rtwpsom2 thanks of course much appreciated
Papatolos THANKS for your many likes

And thanks to all mates for looking at my first - poorly made - video. I've been practicing and now getting better. I'll post a couple of "completed" videos - then wrap this one up.
===========================================

PS: I don’t know where to post this thread -- But for builders interested building this kit -

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I just ordered this one directly from the best legitimate retailer in Japan for the Woody Joe kits (Zootoyz) WHY? - the ¥ has taken a very significant beating against the $.
This kit retail sold (level 4) there are two versions the level 2 is more simplified and does not allow for many inner hull parts for added details. Level 4 $202.00 USD - Ebay sells them for north of $300 USD and add $100 shipping - AND those sellers don’t specify if kit is level 2 or 4. hmmmm??

With shipping out-the-door to CA -- $250.00 a great price for this interesting kit - there are a couple of builders here who have logged their work

@Submarinerblue here is his completed images log - really great!
!

Higaki Kaisen Finished

This is my finished Japanese 17th century cargo ship 1/72 scale from Woody Joe. The kit is beautifully designed and while the instructions are in Japanese they are very clear and well illustrated. This ship is very different from western ships. No keel, no deadeyes, no ratlines, a retractable...

shipsofscale.com

AND this one - wow as well @Ekis

Higaki kaïsen 1:72 (Woody Joe) byEkis [COMPLETED BUILD]

A new shipyard opens ! A little history... Two types of sailing ships, once used to transport taru (casks) of sake from Kamigata (上方, the present Keihanshin area of Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe) to Edo (now Tokyo). Until the Meiji period (1868-1911), movement from the center of the capital Kyoto to...

shipsofscale.com

My next project - Pavel’s Oseberg should be, for me, a quick project (that is of course subjective) so this Higaki Kaisen is "a long term investment" haha - that reminds me of George Carlin who joked that his mother bought green bananas as "a long term investment".

Cheers,

Good morning John. At least you had the courage to post your video. Mine are horrendous and stay well in my cloud never to be shared . Looking forward to your Oseberg however that Japanese ship looks cool. Variety is the spice of life they say…..well mostly. Good luck with the wrist recovery. Cheers Grant

 

[oldflyer]

Grant,
re: video I did learn how to turn off the sound during filming. That was the first improvement step. Now I need to learn how to pan without the slight sloppy movements. My iPhone has a setting for that, but seems useless in my hands. Then how to continuously adjust close-up focusing during filming.

Now, your work is so excellent even a in your word "horrendous" videos - is questionable - the focus would be 1000% on how amazing your
superb details would look close up. You have been a constant inspiration for me and certainly many others on how to improve their building skills.

Cheers my friend --

 

[oldflyer]

Ordered the mast step upgrade as well as Pavel’s airbrush, for later, wood stains - so on hold -- I will start a new log in a bit. But these starting areas are all the same - we’ve all seen quite a few. I’ll start my log during the steps where I plan on adding, hopefully, lots of extra details beyond what this amazing kit already includes in the box.





This book will be THE guide. took months to finally land a copy - I have been in very excellent communications with Pavel Nikitin - The Oseberg rigging in his kits also used this book as their reference.



OK --- Cheers all Enjoy your end of the year festivities.

 

[Jacapa412]

There was no wheel with ropes and pulley running to the tiller. In the early 17th century and before, ships were steered with a whipstaff. The helmsman operated it from under the halfdeck or from a room on a sublevel below the main deck or upper gun deck. The helmsman could often look forward out portals across the main deck to hear orders from officers above, or if the helm is located too deep within the ship, orders were relayed down to the helmsman.

From zu Mondfeld:
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Working whipstaff on model of HMS Sovereign of the Seas. The Sovereign is probably the largest ship capable of being controlled using a whipstaff. The ships wheel has many advantages over the whipstaff, foremost being the ease of which a heavy rudder under great force can be positioned and held. It probably took more than one person to hold the whipstaff with the rudder at extreme angles if heavy seas.
View attachment 356553

The tiller protrudes from the transom, and will be incorporated into the rudder later in the build. The tiller and whipstaff are positioned "hard to larboard".
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Hi Kurt,
I’m still here taking notes keeping quiet and learning from the most experienced members of the forum, haha. For the past two days, I haven't been able to tear myself away from this John thread. BTW, John, I’m not commenting on the original thread because it’s a bit old and you might have already finished your SOTS!! And I wouldn't want to make it any longer than it already is, so I can finish analyzing it sooner hahaha, just kidding. I still have the second half of the thread to go, but honestly, your documentation of the build is more than spectacular (I have no words)!!! Since I’m here, I wanted to ask you Kurt if you happen to have any diagrams showing how to adjust all the bulkheads to build out all the gun decks. Remember, my kit is the Mantua version, as I mentioned to you at some point, I don't like the dummy models, so for me, that’s something that will 100% be changed in my SOTS. But I see that John didn't make the modifications to build the gun decks, which is why I'm asking you; maybe you've heard of someone, or perhaps someone will see my reply and help me out with this. I know the bulkheads are completely different from the DeAgostini ones, plus it's a smaller scale. That’s the look I want for my Mantua SOTS—along with adding LEDs, of course.
As always, I thank you in advance for your prompt response.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Hi Kurt,
I’m still here taking notes keeping quiet and learning from the most experienced members of the forum, haha. For the past two days, I haven't been able to tear myself away from this John thread. BTW, John, I’m not commenting on the original thread because it’s a bit old and you might have already finished your SOTS!! And I wouldn't want to make it any longer than it already is, so I can finish analyzing it sooner hahaha, just kidding. I still have the second half of the thread to go, but honestly, your documentation of the build is more than spectacular (I have no words)!!! Since I’m here, I wanted to ask you Kurt if you happen to have any diagrams showing how to adjust all the bulkheads to build out all the gun decks. Remember, my kit is the Mantua version, as I mentioned to you at some point, I don't like the dummy models, so for me, that’s something that will 100% be changed in my SOTS. But I see that John didn't make the modifications to build the gun decks, which is why I'm asking you; maybe you've heard of someone, or perhaps someone will see my reply and help me out with this. I know the bulkheads are completely different from the DeAgostini ones, plus it's a smaller scale. That’s the look I want for my Mantua SOTS—along with adding LEDs, of course.
As always, I thank you in advance for your prompt response.

The vertical position of the gun decks was determined by the position of the gun ports. Obviously, the gun port bottom sills have to be a certain distance above the deck in order for the guns barrels to be at the proper position vertically in order to be able to depress and elevate when aimed. Starting with the gun port locations, you work backwards and determine where the lower decks need to be using once of your completed cannon carriages. When you know how many millimeters the deck should be below each sill, then you figure out how thick the deck planks and false deck beneath those are. add that thickness to the sill height, and there you have distance from the sill down to the top surface of the beams that support the deck. After that, create a jig that inserts into a gun port, and has wood that extends down to the level of the top of the beam surface. That tool will ensure you set your deck beams at the correct height at the gunwales as you install them.

Now, before you do all this, make darn sure your gun ports are aligned in a gentle sweeping curve from fore to aft, and no gun ports are too far below or above that line, or else the deck will have waves, flat spots, or depressions trying to line up with those gun ports, and that will suck to build. If the gun ports do not form a smooth, curved line along the hull, CORRECT THEM NOW. It's much easier to fabricate a smooth deck than one that jumps up and down, plus it's CORRECT. On my model, in order to support the false deck plywood better at the edges so no dips in the surface would occur, I installed a stringer of wood strip on the inside of the hull, then the beams just inside that at the same level. As for the curvature of the beams, I estimated the arcs by eye and made sure that adjacent beams were pretty close to the same shape in curvature. Yeah, I could have measured and been more precise, but my work style has always been free-form and I have a good eye for lining things up precisely, so I saved some time. The historical amount of deck camber could have been calculated, but I didn't make that much of an effort. If the deck ends up being too high, you can always fake it by sanding a little off the bottoms of the carriage wheels of the affected cannons and lower their carriages up to .3mm. Any more is noticable. If the deck is too low, shim up the false deck piece in the affect area BEFORE you lay down the deck planks. Fake it 'til you make it. No one will ever notice. Just keep an eye on the deck height of the false deck and then the planking layer by continuous measurement checks and everything will turn out fine.

The bottom edge of the tool is the vertical position of the top of the beams. The dashed line is where the top surface of the deck will be.


Use the gun port jig to establish the stringer plank vertical position, then clamp it well.


Add beams that are in slight compression between the stringers so they stay in place as the glue dries.


Throw down some pieces of false deck plywood to see if the beams at the same height at the centerline of the hull, and adjust the length of their support pillars AFTER the glue dries at the endjoints of the beams.


The beams can flex up or down a little at the centerline such that they are all even, then you can either start laying down the false deck in pieces or go absolutely f'ing crazy like I did and add knees, hanging knees, lodging knees, dagger knees, carlings and ledges... just because.


I'm writing a book here, so I better cut it off and say, just read the rest in my build log.

Kurt

 

[Jacapa412]

Hahahaaha "Aye, aye, Captain!"
I'll definitely do that, my friend! A thousand thanks, as always. I'm wrapping things up here now so I won't bother you anymore; I'll need to study your thread, though that’s going to take me a while because yours is a massive read, it spans nautical miles! compares to this one