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Product Review Spin Wars: Annie's JF-108 vs. JimDoa'a JMD-109S in the Hobbyist Arena

Jimsky said:
When it comes to precision work in our hobby—whether you're shaping wood, cleaning up tight corners, or polishing small parts—a good rotary tool can make all the difference. While traditionally marketed as nail drills, compact devices like Annie's JF-108 and JimDoa's JMD-109S have found their way onto hobby benches for their fine control and versatility. In this review, I’ll compare these two budget-friendly tools from a modeler’s perspective—focusing on their performance, comfort, and practicality for shipbuilding and other miniature work.

Just to be clear—I bought both of these tools out of my own pocket, and no one’s tossing doubloons my way to say nice things. This isn’t a sponsored review, just my honest take from time spent actually using them. So if I like something, it’s because it worked for me. If I don’t—well, I’ll let the chips (or wood shavings) fall where they may.
Before landing on these two tools, I tried out the Yoke Fellow portable nail drill, but it quickly sent me back to the drawing board. The main issue wasn’t the cord running to the battery pack—that was manageable. What really drove me nuts was the clumsy control system. It relied on a single large button to cycle through speeds, and the way it operated just didn’t offer the precision or ease I needed. You had to fumble through speed settings rather than dialing in exactly what you wanted, which made it frustrating for detailed hobby work. That awkward interface was the real dealbreaker—and the reason I started looking for a better tool in the first place.

View attachment 514002

Let’s start with the Nail Master JMD-109S by JimDOA. What first drew me to it was the slick, modern design—it just looked well thought out and clean. But what really impressed me once I got it in hand was the charging base, which turned out to be magnetic. That was a pleasant surprise and a welcome one at that. Anyone who's used rotary tools knows the struggle of trying to keep them from rolling off the bench like they've got a mind of their own. The magnetic stand, which also doubles as the charging base, keeps the tool upright and securely in place. It’s a simple feature, but incredibly practical for a hobbyist's workspace. The charging stand also has a handy feature—a set of holes to hold up to 6 bits. While 6 might not be a huge number, it’s a nice touch that helps keep your essential bits organized and within easy reach. It’s small conveniences like this that make a difference in a well-designed tool.

The packaging of the Nail Master JMD-109S also deserves a mention. It reminded me of unboxing an iPhone—solid, hard cardboard with a premium feel to it. Inside, the tool is nestled securely in a molded plastic tray, which keeps everything in place and protects it from any potential bumps or damage during shipping. It’s clear that a lot of thought went into the packaging, ensuring the tool arrives in perfect condition and giving you that “premium” unboxing experience right from the start.

Technical Data:

Model: JMD-109S
Type: Electric Mini Nail Drill Rechargeable
Material: ABS+Aluminum alloy
Speed: 0-35000RPM
Rotary Direction: Foward/Reverse
Power:15W
Output Voltage: DC2-5V
Input Voltage: AC 100V-240V 50/60HZ
Color: Red, Gray, Purple
Weight: 0.6kg

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Size matter! One thing I didn’t quite expect was the size of the tool. From the images, I had pictured it being a bit smaller, but it does come across as a little bulkier in person. Of course, that’s purely on me for not checking the size chart beforehand. It’s still manageable, but if you’re expecting something ultra-compact, it might feel a bit more substantial than anticipated.

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Operation Controls:

While the slightly larger size than expected was manageable, the real disappointment came with the touch-button operation controls. I can’t tell you how many times the speed accidentally increased or decreased on its own due to the slightest touch of my hand. It’s incredibly frustrating because when you’re focused on your work, the last thing you want is for the tool to suddenly start spinning faster or, worse, slow down just when you need it. The lack of tactile feedback and the sensitivity of the buttons make it difficult to hold the tool properly without unintended adjustments to the speed.

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To start the tool, you have to press and hold the ON/OFF button. It always powers on at speed 00, which means you then have to tap the arrows on the screen to set your desired speed. Here’s the kicker—when you stop to change the bit and restart the tool, it resets to speed 00 again. Seriously? It’s such a basic design flaw, and it can be really frustrating when you’re in the middle of a task, only to have to reset the speed every time you power it back on.
Another annoying issue is that lightly touching the ON/OFF switch can change the rotating direction. The problem is, you don’t need to stop the tool to switch directions, so you might be working on something, focused, and then boom—the tool starts spinning in the opposite direction. It’s not only frustrating but can also be risky, especially when working on delicate details or near your fingers. One wrong touch, and you could end up damaging the work or even yourself.

So, is there anything good about this tool? Yes, definitely! While the touch controls aren’t ideal for me, the tool itself is solid in many other areas. It features a 2.35 mm collet chuck with a precise mechanism, making it great for holding bits securely. The tool is surprisingly quiet for its power and offers a decent amount of torque. I used a 0.5 mm drill bit at various speeds, and I got excellent results—smooth, consistent drilling without any wobble. Plus, it has an auto power-off feature, which is a nice touch—it helps preserve battery life by shutting down automatically after a period of inactivity. As for battery life, I haven’t had the chance to run it for hours on end, but after using it for about an hour, I noticed it dropped just one bar on the battery indicator (out of four). It’s clear that the engineering and build quality are top-notch, even if the controls leave something to be desired.

Conclusion:

The JMD-109S stood out for its sleek, modern design, and what initially caught the magnetic charging base. This base not only keeps the tool secure while charging but doubles as a stand, helping to organize bits with space for up to six. While the tool’s slightly larger size than I expected wasn’t a dealbreaker, the touch-button controls were. Unfortunately, the touch-sensitive control buttons often led to accidental changes in speed and rotation direction, which was frustrating when I needed consistent control. Every time I stopped to change a bit, the tool would reset to speed 00, requiring me to reset the speed—another design flaw.
That said, the JMD-109S is not without merit. It features a 2.35 mm collet chuck for precision and a solid build, making it surprisingly quiet with good torque. I tested it with a 0.5 mm drill bit at various speeds and got excellent results. It also has an auto power-off feature that helps preserve battery life, though I didn’t have the chance to test it for a prolonged period. After about an hour of use, I noticed the battery dropped one bar (out of four), indicating decent longevity.

Overall, while there are some notable frustrations with the controls, the JMD-109S shows strong performance in terms of precision, quiet operation, and battery efficiency. It’s a solid choice for hobbyists, as long as you can work around the less-than-ideal touch-control interface.

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Annie’s JF-108 offers an appealing blend of functionality, design, and affordability. It has a clean and sleek design that immediately stands out. Its compact size and modern look make it feel like a stylish addition to your workspace. The packaging is sturdy and well-organized, with the drill and accessories safely stored in molded plastic to prevent any damage during shipping. It’s not as flashy ;) as JMD-109S but it definitely feels like a tool that knows its purpose—simple and effective.

View attachment 514010

Unlike the JMD-109S, the JF-108 is noticeably smaller and shorter, with a sturdy aluminum alloy body that feels solid and well-balanced in the hand. That compact size plays a big role during long sessions—where the longer, bulkier JMD can start to feel like you’re wrangling a hoer, the JF-108 stays nimble and easy to handle. It’s less tiring on the hand, especially when you're deep into detail work and already leaning over your bench like a shipwright with a deadline.
This tool features a straightforward control system that’s easy to get the hang of—even for beginners. No touch buttons here! Just press the ON/OFF switch, and the tool starts spinning right away. Speed is adjusted using a dial, giving you smooth and precise control from low to high. Need to reverse the rotation? Just press the dial, and you’re good to go. The digital display shows both the speed and the direction, so you always know exactly what’s going on.

View attachment 514011


When it’s time to change the bit, you’ll need to stop the tool by pressing the ON/OFF switch—but here’s the good news: when you power it back on, it picks up right where you left off, keeping your last speed setting. No more resetting your dial every time you pause. It also features an automatic shutdown function to help preserve the life of a high-performance battery, which is a nice bonus when you forget to turn it off mid-project (hey, we’ve all been there). It seems that 2.35mm is the standard shaft size for most nail bits—and conveniently, it’s the same for many jewelry tools too. Both the JMD-109S and the JF-108 use collet systems with clasp-locking mechanisms located inside the body. In my experience, this setup does the job just fine—the bits stay firmly in place, with no wobble or slip during use.

Charging the JF-108 is straightforward. It uses a USB-C connection (cable included) which is always a plus in my book—no hunting for some weird proprietary cable. The charging port is located on the side of the handpiece (the first time seen such a setup), but takes about 40 minutes for a full charge compared to 20 minutes for JMD-109S.
As for battery life, while I haven’t pushed it to the absolute limit, it’s holding up impressively so far. I’ve used it for a few sessions—around an hour each—and the battery barely budged. It seems to sip power rather than guzzle it, which is great if you're planning longer hobby sessions without being tethered to a charger. Until I do a full drain test, I’d say the battery life feels solid for its size and purpose.

Conclusion:

The JF-108 may not have the sleek, futuristic look of the JMD-109S, but it more than makes up for it with practical advantages. Its control system—reliable physical buttons and a smooth-turning dial for speed control—is far more intuitive and user-friendly compared to the overly sensitive touch controls on the JMD. While its design isn’t quite as slick, the JF-108 delivers where it truly counts: it’s smaller, lighter, and feels more natural in the hand during long sessions. It offers precise performance through a solid collet locking mechanism and holds power impressively well. And one of its biggest wins for both tools? Complete freedom from wires—no more getting caught up or restricted while working. In my personal experience, for hobbyists looking for a dependable, compact, and efficient rotary tool, the JF-108 makes a strong impression and has definitely earned its spot on my bench.

Thanks for reading! I hope this comparison and my personal impressions of the JF-108 and JMD-109S help someone out there who's hunting for the right tool for their hobby setup. If you’ve used either of these—or a similar tool—I’d love to hear your thoughts and experiences. Got a favorite? Had a different outcome? Drop a reply below! And of course, if you have any questions about these tools or want to chat more about rotary setups, feel free to ask—happy to help!


Appreciate everyone who stops by to read and share.
– Jimsky
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Another great product review, Jim, comprehensive, as usual. I trust your insight and perspective on the products you review.

For some of us "seniors," arthritis is an issue, so ergonomics with many small tools is a heavily weighted consideration. Also, typically in my personal experience, the smaller format equates to better control and precision. So if one is doing fine, detailed carving work, the
JF-108 better choice, yes?

Another assumption, the two-digit numeric displayed on the JF-108 represents 000s RPM, i.e., "xx,000".

One thing I was surprised to read, if I understood the statement correctly, was the possibility that the JMD-109S's directional rotation could change while powered up. While I'm not an electrical engineer and don't understand the different functional designs on these motors or controls, I can't imagine, in my limited understanding, that it can be good for the longevity of the motor.

Although torque is not a critical factor when considering the tasks these tools are designed to perform, does either one stand out from the other on the torque metric? I do understand that, without a specific test protocol, it is just your impression, which again, I've come to rely on. ;)

As a "tool hoarder", :rolleyes: I have a total of 8 rotary tools, which you have forced me to consciously think about now.
  • 3 Foredom cable-driven tools, which really don't get used as they are designed for larger wood working/carving projects.
  • 1 Corded Dremel - rarely used due to redundancy with the Foredom Micromotor
  • 2 Cordless Dremels - please don't ask me why I have 2.
  • 1 $15 no-name micro drill, no torque, no precision, no value. I'm not sure why it's not in the trash can instead of my drill drawer...oh yeah, I'm a tool hoarder. ROTF
  • 1 Foredom Micromotor - this is my go-to tool. Great torque for a self-contained hand set. Even though corded, the cord is supple to the point I don't realize it is corded. Ergonomically, it is a 10/10 and shines with small carving tasks.
I do understand the Foredom Micromotor is not for everyone, as it is expensive, but honestly, if it had been my first "rotary purchase", the. other purchases would have been made.

There is only one task that I can think of where one of these two tools may be slightly more efficient and effective, and that is drilling treenail holes, due to the sheer numbers in a small area. With that said, I can't actually believe I'm thinking, right now, about Googling "JF-108".

Thanks again, Jim, for taking your personal time to impart your impressions on these two tools to everyone.
 
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Hoss6262 said:
One thing I was surprised to read, if I understood the statement correctly, was the possibility that the JMD-109S's directional rotation could change while powered up. While I'm not an electrical engineer and don't understand the different functional designs on these motors or controls, I can't imagine, in my limited understanding, that it can be good for the longevity of the motor.
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That is bad, when you use it for carving like I do. The mills or burs I use have only one direction where they mill. Like a router bit. And these bits are so small you can't see if they turn right.
 
Hoss6262 said:
So if one is doing fine, detailed carving work, the
JF-108 better choice, yes?
Click to expand...
From my own experience, yes—the JF-108 is a great choice for fine, detailed carving work. I’ve found it to be very capable when it comes to precision tasks, especially with the right bits. It has plenty of torque for its size and handles sanding and shaping really well. Just keep in mind that it uses 3/32" (2.35mm) shank bits, not the standard Dremel size, unless you’re able to swap in a compatible collet (some models may allow for that, but I haven’t tried it myself). So far, it’s become my go-to rotary tool, at least for the work I can find 2.35mm bits.

Hoss6262 said:
Another assumption, the two-digit numeric displayed on the JF-108 represents 000s RPM, i.e., "xx,000".
Click to expand...
Yes, the two-digit number displayed on the JF-108 typically represents the speed in thousands of RPM—so when you see something like “20” on the display, that means 20,000 RPM. So yes, you’re exactly right: “xx” = “xx,000 RPM."
Most of these nail drills, including the JF-108, max out around 35,000 RPM, so the display will usually range from 01 to 35 accordingly.
Hoss6262 said:
One thing I was surprised to read, if I understood the statement correctly, was the possibility that the JMD-109S's directional rotation could change while powered up. While I'm not an electrical engineer and don't understand the different functional designs on these motors or controls, I can't imagine, in my limited understanding, that it can be good for the longevity of the motor.
Click to expand...
That's a really good observation, and you're not wrong to be cautious. The JMD-109S has a very sensitive touch control panel, and one quirk I’ve noticed is that even an accidental touch, not just by a finger, but by other parts of the palm brushing against it, can trigger a brief stop and reverse the rotation. It's not that the motor changes direction while still spinning under load, but rather that it quickly powers down, then restarts in the opposite direction. While it seems the unit is designed to handle that kind of behavior, I share your concern—it doesn’t feel like the gentlest way to treat a motor over time. Out of habit (and caution), I try to avoid unintentional touches and only switch directions when I’ve fully stopped it myself.
Hoss6262 said:
There is only one task that I can think of where one of these two tools may be slightly more efficient and effective, and that is drilling treenail holes, due to the sheer numbers in a small area. With that said, I can't actually believe I'm thinking, right now, about Googling "JF-108".
Click to expand...
Haha, I know exactly what you mean—I've been on the hunt for a tool like the JF-108 for quite a while. It's compact, has solid torque, and the freedom from wires is a real game-changer. I’ve come to really enjoy using it for all kinds of tasks, and when it comes to drilling a thousand treenail holes? It’ll handle that effortlessly.
That said, I do still wish it had a foot speed control. Not just for nostalgia’s sake—it's genuinely a great addition for maintaining precision and adjusting speed on the fly while working. And if you’re already Googling “JF-108,” well… welcome to the club! BTW, AliExpress and Temu both have those units (pretty much the same price).

If you end up getting one, definitely share your thoughts after you've had a chance to put it to work—I’d love to hear how it fits into your setup!
 
Steef66 said:
That is bad, when you use it for carving like I do. The mills or burs I use have only one direction where they mill. Like a router bit. And these bits are so small you can't see if they turn right.
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You're right—it's as hazardous as it is harmful, risking not only your delicate work but also your fingers.
 
Jimsky said:
From my own experience, yes—the JF-108 is a great choice for fine, detailed carving work. I’ve found it to be very capable when it comes to precision tasks, especially with the right bits. It has plenty of torque for its size and handles sanding and shaping really well. Just keep in mind that it uses 3/32" (2.35mm) shank bits, not the standard Dremel size, unless you’re able to swap in a compatible collet (some models may allow for that, but I haven’t tried it myself). So far, it’s become my go-to rotary tool, at least for the work I can find 2.35mm bits.
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Yes, I've got this covered. Perhaps I should have said, "tool AND adapter hoarder". ROTF

thumbnail.jpg
 
On another note, which I completely forgot to mention when comparing the two models, the collet chuck on the JMD is noticeably shorter than the one on the JF-108. While that might not seem like a big deal to some, I believe that the deeper a bit sits in the chuck, the less chance there is for deviation. That said, to be honest, I haven’t observed any noticeable deviation with either of the rotary tools I've reviewed.

Steef66 said:
I throw them away, because they wobble and you can't use that with rotary carving. Change the chuck for bigger bits like 3 or 3,175 mm. See my topic of carving. If you want something else use for that job the Dremel.
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I’m with you on that, bro, I think you’re right. That said, I’ve recently discovered that among all these 'nail drills,' there’s a surprisingly wide variety of chuck types—some shorter, some longer, and with different diameters. It can be quite a challenge to find exactly the one you need, especially when it’s unclear whether a specific collet chuck can even be replaced.:rolleyes:

I use adapters only when I need to drill parts with a drill bit less than 0.4mm in diameter. I couldn't find ones on the standard 2.35mm shank.
 
Steef66 said:
I throw them away, because they wobble and you can't use that with rotary carving. Change the chuck for bigger bits like 3 or 3,175 mm. See my topic of carving. If you want something else use for that job the Dremel.
Click to expand...
Steph, I said I hoarded tools and adapters. I never said I used them all. ROTF I've actually never used that adapter, and if I am honest with myself, I can never see a situation where I would use it. Why did I buy them? Well, as I said in the earlier post, I had not yet bought my Foredom Micromotor.

I do a lot of carving and use micro chisels and the Foredom for all of it.
thumbnail (1).jpgthumbnail.jpgthumbnail (2).jpgthumbnail (3).jpg

Now, if you are OCD like me, you'll notice the carving burs in the rectangular cases are not sorted by size. That is because on my way to set them up for this photo, I dropped both of them and just reinserted, in no particular order. Thanks Steph!! ROTF Now I have to spend the next 30 minutes putting them in the correct order.
And for the record, I read your carving thread end to end and was very impressed both with your approach and the results.
 
Hoss6262 said:
I do a lot of carving and use micro chisels and the Foredom for all of it.
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For years, I’ve cherished my Foredom flexshaft as my essential tool, making me a loyal fan of the Foredom Micromotor. I’m certain it’s the tool I’ll ultimately choose, particularly if they introduce a wireless Bluetooth model with a foot pedal—fingers crossed! ;) Love the fact that your tool has two ports where you can connect two handpieces: one with a 2.35mm shaft and another 3.00mm or 3.175mm shaft.
 
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