I've come to understand there are likely many different types of this model. Mine was from here (not saying you would get the same): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083GZFWMQ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It was in a brown paper envelop and had the wood, three A4 build diagrams (no step-by-step instructions), and sails. What I miss most is metal cannons, but I'll probably buy those elsewhere. Oh, and it doesn't have the little boat that should be hanging off the stern! So if anyone has those parts (and maybe has scanned them?) please let me know.
Nice ! Mine is the kit Halcon at 1:100. Mine came with 2 A4 sheets (one if which shows the sails in 1:1 for the kit). I have found that some parts with the kit are not shown at all in the diagram for assembly. The cannon barrels are just thin wood and not round. I've not been able to find any aftermarket that are the correct size for the scale.
I've not been able to work on mine for a bit because we just moved from Colorado (Rocky Mountain Shipwrights is a wonderful club) to Florida so there is a lot of unpacking still and lots of things to do to get the house where we want it before I can get back to building ships again. Maybe I can sneak a little work here and there.
Yours is looking great so far ! Keep up the good work!
Jeff
I've not been able to work on mine for a bit because we just moved from Colorado (Rocky Mountain Shipwrights is a wonderful club) to Florida so there is a lot of unpacking still and lots of things to do to get the house where we want it before I can get back to building ships again. Maybe I can sneak a little work here and there.
Yours is looking great so far ! Keep up the good work!
Jeff
Last edited:
The cannons with mine are also wood. They are bass plywood and thick enough, I think. But they would (wood!) still be square if used. So I think I'll look around for alternatives eventually. Right now, I'm still trying to get through planking (time)! And I think I'd like to detail the look with staining a bit. I have dabbled in model trains somewhat and there I really latched on to the idea of "prototyping" (AKA making the model true to the subject). But I think this Harvey model is not actually that close to a real-world Cutter and so I think I may take liberates with making more of an eye appealing display piece.
I'm still VERY intimidated about the rigging aspect! The hull is wood, so I've not experienced many issues with it. But the ropes? That will be new territory.
M.
I'm still VERY intimidated about the rigging aspect! The hull is wood, so I've not experienced many issues with it. But the ropes? That will be new territory.
M.
HIS Model (link can be found on the home page from our sponsors) has a nice block and rigging kit available (with plans), but that will double the cost of the kit.
I tried a "test stain" using one of the cannon trucks and think I found that the PVA used to assemble them might have interfered with the tinting. HELP! I thought to use some localized stain and then boiled linseed oil as a finish (on the hull, at least). Is PVA not going to be penetrated by those two?
IMO, these look better painted than stained. Anyplace glue has penetrated the wood, it's going to prevent stain from getting in, so unless you're really careful, this is what's going to happen to all of them.
Thanks. What you wrote makes sense. And though it is disappointing (to me right now) I guess I will have to find another way.
The idea of painting is not as appealing to me as staining since I love the natural grain of wood appearance through stain and other translucent finishes. So I've been noodling about the idea of a brown acrylic wash instead of stain. But I think that would have the same problem of "whiting out" wherever PVA was already in place. And saturating anything water based where PVA is in play would also cause the PVA to also soften/loosen, right?
I guess I am looking for a tinted finish that covers PVA infused wood similarly to bare wood? Would a tinted shellac do that? I've never worked with shellac, let alone tried tinting it before. But this whole project is a test platform so I guess I could try anything that is suggested.
PS. I'm also in SW Ohio and was wondering how to have my location show up?
The idea of painting is not as appealing to me as staining since I love the natural grain of wood appearance through stain and other translucent finishes. So I've been noodling about the idea of a brown acrylic wash instead of stain. But I think that would have the same problem of "whiting out" wherever PVA was already in place. And saturating anything water based where PVA is in play would also cause the PVA to also soften/loosen, right?
I guess I am looking for a tinted finish that covers PVA infused wood similarly to bare wood? Would a tinted shellac do that? I've never worked with shellac, let alone tried tinting it before. But this whole project is a test platform so I guess I could try anything that is suggested.
PS. I'm also in SW Ohio and was wondering how to have my location show up?
To show your location, you click on your profile in the upper right of the screen and go to "Account Details" and fill in the "Location" field.
Thanks Corsair!To show your location, you click on your profile in the upper right of the screen and go to "Account Details" and fill in the "Location" field.
Personally, if I were in your situation and wanted to do what I could to get the result I wanted, my next thought would be to take a few scraps of wood from the tree that your carriages came from and practice a couple different techniques. First thing I would try would be a medium viscosity CA glue carefully applied with a needle instead of the bottle... much more controllable application, and medium CA gives you a little bit of working time.
Whereabouts are you at in SW Ohio?
I've used thin CA for years with balsa. The waterier the better. It bonds balsa model plane arts instantly. So no dry time to speak of (also when dripped onto baking powder it creates a nearly machinable plastic). I tried that on these bass wood parts at first and found that it did nothing. It basically ran along the surface rather than instantly soaking in like it does with balsa. So I guess it is because it was thin CA and not a thicker version? I've never used CA that was more jellified.
Southish of Dayton. You?
Southish of Dayton. You?
Thicker CA glue can fill narrow gaps and still produce a decent bond. CA works best when there gaps do not exist, of course. I use the medium viscosity CA glue for most applications. The thin CA glue can wick deeply into the pores of wood and cause mild discoloration and embrittlement of the material. It should also be avoided for locking rigging knots for this same reason.
Diluted PVA glue works best for rigging knots because it stays pliable, and if the knot is flexed, the fibers of the line won't break before the glue stretches. PVA has a hard time locking knots in poly line and won't stick to it well at all, so it is less effective for that. You might have to use CA for knots on that line, but for linen or cotton line, PVA works great.
Holy ship! I just had a mini spring clamp slip off of a plank it was (supposedly) holding while sitting on the display stand. The resultant "snap" of the releasing clamp caused one of the clamp's handles to grab the stand to the hull. And the entire hull and stand assembly jumped upwards and turned upside-down. As well as made me nearly coronate. My chest is still thumping hard!
BTW, I appreciate the info on PVA for rigging knots. It makes a lot of sense to have a flexible glue in a flexible situation such as those.
M.
BTW, I appreciate the info on PVA for rigging knots. It makes a lot of sense to have a flexible glue in a flexible situation such as those.
M.
Yup, they make CA's in a few different consistencies... thin, gap-filling, gel, etc.
Now this is getting funny... Southish of Dayton as well. I'm in Miamisburg. I usually don't put that because nobody knows where the heck it is, and I hate listing Dayton, because second to Youngstown, I consider it the "other" armpit of Ohio.
I'm In Germantown. I only work in Miamisburg! West side of 75 off of Austin. A little place known as Yaskawa. It's the US HQ of their robotics unit.
That's awesome. Worldwide forum and we're practically neighbors. I work down in Monroe not far from Trader's World, and I hop on & off 75 from Austin every day, passing right by Yaskawa. Heck... I remember before Yaskawa when that was Motoman.
Last edited: