The "Chinese" Harvey

Had to take a small break from building. I let my hands dry out too much with the change of weather and probably too much dish washing. That resulted in very dry skin that then split on my right thumb. The tiny little split kept bleeding onto the model, so I paused building and went for moisturizing and letting my hands heal a bit. But here is the re-start with the next plank! Doing both sides at the same time. I also ordered some brown acrylic to try touching up and/or re-doing the cannon carriages as recommended by a "neighbor."

I can't believe anyone did not give advice on shellac! Does no-one know? Was it just a stupid idea to start with? Or is it just that no-one that is knowledgeable about shellac has wondered through this thread?

Cheers,

M.Image.jpeg
 
mondrasek said:
Had to take a small break from building. I let my hands dry out too much with the change of weather and probably too much dish washing. That resulted in very dry skin that then split on my right thumb. The tiny little split kept bleeding onto the model, so I paused building and went for moisturizing and letting my hands heal a bit. But here is the re-start with the next plank! Doing both sides at the same time. I also ordered some brown acrylic to try touching up and/or re-doing the cannon carriages as recommended by a "neighbor."

I can't believe anyone did not give advice on shellac! Does no-one know? Was it just a stupid idea to start with? Or is it just that no-one that is knowledgeable about shellac has wondered through this thread?

Cheers,

M.View attachment 405663
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What did you do with the shellac ?
 
I haven't actually tried tinted shellac (yet). I was thinking it might be a good idea for the problem I noticed with not being able to stain through PVA. Instead of stain, I thought, maybe a translucent finish such as shellac might be a workable idea. And so I posted this:

I guess I am looking for a tinted finish that covers PVA infused wood similarly to bare wood? Would a tinted shellac do that? I've never worked with shellac, let alone tried tinting it before. But this whole project is a test platform so I guess I could try anything that is suggested.

I didn't receive any replies about that query, but I was not trying to be confrontational! I was just surprised that no-one gave advise as so many have on other questions I have asked! So I was wondering if the use of tinted shellac is mostly unknown of here or if there is some reason that it is a bad idea to even consider using.

M.
 
mondrasek said:
I haven't actually tried tinted shellac (yet). I was thinking it might be a good idea for the problem I noticed with not being able to stain through PVA. Instead of stain, I thought, maybe a translucent finish such as shellac might be a workable idea. And so I posted this:

I guess I am looking for a tinted finish that covers PVA infused wood similarly to bare wood? Would a tinted shellac do that? I've never worked with shellac, let alone tried tinting it before. But this whole project is a test platform so I guess I could try anything that is suggested.

I didn't receive any replies about that query, but I was not trying to be confrontational! I was just surprised that no-one gave advise as so many have on other questions I have asked! So I was wondering if the use of tinted shellac is mostly unknown of here or if there is some reason that it is a bad idea to even consider using.

M.
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ahh. I don't know about tinting shellac. I would say paint them. But I understand you prefer the finish of the stain.
 
The brown acrylic arrived, so I'll be trying to paint over the stained one next. I was thinking about trying to just touch up the light spots of the stain where the PVA blocked it. But I doubt the color will match! Not that it should really even be noticeable at this scale. Just that I'll always know and see it!

I was thinking a thin enough coat of paint might be fine and still show the texture, if not the "stain" type different colors, of the underlying grain. I'm probably over-thinking it. It's just a relatively inexpensive test model to try things out on! But I would like the best finished product at the end of the day.

M.
 
I've been planking as fast as I can go now. And sanding a bit in-between while the other side is drying. I recently tried out a mini crosscut file to clean up the cannon ports and WOW that cut through the bass wood waaaay faster than sanding! And so I plan to use a file before sanding from now on.

A question: The hull has mostly convex contours which are easily shaped with a file and/or sanding stick/block. But what is best for the concave contours? I have one spot (so far) where a middle plank in a concave section turned out to be a bit thinner than the surrounding planks. So I will have to take off some "meat" from those neighboring planks to get down to the thinner plank's level and make the whole contour "smooth."

M.Image.jpeg
 
mondrasek said:
I've been planking as fast as I can go now. And sanding a bit in-between while the other side is drying. I recently tried out a mini crosscut file to clean up the cannon ports and WOW that cut through the bass wood waaaay faster than sanding! And so I plan to use a file before sanding from now on.

A question: The hull has mostly convex contours which are easily shaped with a file and/or sanding stick/block. But what is best for the concave contours? I have one spot (so far) where a middle plank in a concave section turned out to be a bit thinner than the surrounding planks. So I will have to take off some "meat" from those neighboring planks to get down to the thinner plank's level and make the whole contour "smooth."

M
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For concave sanding, I wrap sandpaper around various diameters of PVC pipe.
 
mondrasek said:
I can't believe anyone did not give advice on shellac! Does no-one know? Was it just a stupid idea to start with? Or is it just that no-one that is knowledgeable about shellac has wondered through this thread?
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Check this link, maybe it contains useful information:
https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/shellac-what-when-and-why.8607/
Using the search function (the magnifying glass in the top right hand corner ) is a very useful tool. For almost any topic you can find additional information.
Cheers, Johan
 
RDN1954 said:
Check this link, maybe it contains useful information:
https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/shellac-what-when-and-why.8607/
Using the search function (the magnifying glass in the top right hand corner ) is a very useful tool. For almost any topic you can find additional information.
Cheers, Johan
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Actually, that thread (great by the way) was the reason I even considered shellac. I had read that (and a lot of other info here) before ever starting to build or began posting. I had never thought to use shellac as a finish before, though I had known what it was (somewhat). So, I'd like more info from anyone with experience. But I doubt that shellac is the answer to my concerns on this small-scale starter model! It would probably be overkill compared to just using paint. But time will tell...

M.
 
Shellac is a very very old finish, and can be used on models. It’s a fairly soft finish but it can be repaired if scratched. I used it on the cabinetry in my bathroom and it’s held up fine. With extreme age, cracks can appear. Several thin coats of shellac diluted with denatured alcohol is better than one thick, undiluted coat in appearance and ease of application. Trust me on this one…
 
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I hope this is more funny than sad... I've arrived at the first planks that are supposed to transition from the hull to the keel by twisting about 80 degrees. I was dry fitting an end where the twist happens, and the plank snapped right along the grain that was inconveniently aligned with the stresses caused by the twisting. I CA'd the broken plank pieces back together. And now have it soaking overnight to hopefully make that portion of the plank more pliable in the morning?!? It was just an idea to try, but I find it very amusing to look at!Image2.jpeg
 
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DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
Shellac is a very very old finish, and can be used on models. It’s a fairly soft finish but it can be repaired if scratched. I used it on the cabinetry in my bathroom and it’s hold up fine. With extreme age, cracks can appear. Several thin coats of shellac diluted with denatured alcohol is better than one thick, undiluted coat in appearance and ease of application. Trust me on this one…
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Any thoughts on tinting shellac? Or using it to color portions of a model that I plan to mostly finish with Linseed Oil? And does it cover over PVA?

I assume shellac is NOT going to accept Linseed Oil afterwards (which would be fine). And so the two finishes would need to be applied to different areas exclusively?
 
If you use a plank bender to pre-shape the plank for the hull, there will be no strain on the glue joint and make it easier to glue.
This is one that I have, but there are many and they work great. You can use it to impart both a curve and a twist at the same time. There are also many ways to do this. I'm sure others will offer up their methods used shortly. :)
Plank Bender
 
Corsair said:
If you use a plank bender to pre-shape the plank for the hull, there will be no strain on the glue joint and make it easier to glue.
This is one that I have, but there are many and they work great. You can use it to impart both a curve and a twist at the same time. There are also many ways to do this. I'm sure others will offer up their methods used shortly. :)
Plank Bender
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Thanks! I had looked into those after doing other research here and had decided to pass at first (cheapie learner model and all). And of course, there were no problems with the first 6 plank layers. But then... I will definitely have to reconsider.

Thanks again!

M.
 
mondrasek said:
Thanks! I had looked into those after doing other research here and had decided to pass at first (cheapie learner model and all). And of course, there were no problems with the first 6 plank layers. But then... I will definitely have to reconsider.

Thanks again!

M.
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It's very easy to use. Find a video on YouTube. Your Harvey is very similar to my 1/100 Halcon.
 
mondrasek said:
Any thoughts on tinting shellac? Or using it to color portions of a model that I plan to mostly finish with Linseed Oil? And does it cover over PVA?

I assume shellac is NOT going to accept Linseed Oil afterwards (which would be fine). And so the two finishes would need to be applied to different areas exclusively?
Click to expand...
I used Tru Tint dye to stain shellac and the results were excellent. I was able to get a dark, rich red brown on red oak wood with lots of grain showing through. Tru Tint is $25.00 for a small bottle, and you can use it at full strength or dilute in with water or alcohol. It's one of the more expensve dyes, but it works best.

DO NOT attempt to oil wood AFTER shellac is applied. Shellac is a sealer and will not allow the oil to go through, and could get gummy with linseed applied to it. If you use linseed oil to darken wood, us a proper paste wax finish on top of that to seal it, or perhaps tung oil with Japan dryer, or a tung oil product that has a dryer mixed in with it. Usually a canned product that says "tung oil" on the can will have driers, and pure tung oil without them is hard to come by.
 
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