Sorry you're having issues with the cheap Chinese line. It's really just string. Looks like your knot came undone on the lower deadeye. No glue on that knot perhaps? Rework sucks, but it always has to be done. Pull the remnant of the simulated chainplate (black line) down and out of the channel, take a pliers and carefully twist and pull the pin out of the hull, remove the line remnant from the pin, and re-tie a new simulated deadeye strop around the deadeye (add glue to the knot), rove it through the channel, insert the pin half way into the hole in hull, draw the deadeye taut to the channel, and tie off the line to the pin, and glue that knot, add a bit of glue to the shank of the pin, then push the pin the rest of the way into the hull. It could be a LOT worse. I have lots of stories on that topic. . .See? See? See?
I was just finishing the first three Fore Stays and highly anticipating ratting (while continuing on with the rest of the Stays on the Fore and then the Main).
The pic speaks for itself. I blame the crappy thread that came with the "kit." But, then again, it might be "builder error." Time will tellView attachment 444090 (AFAIK).
F***! I've not even rigged it and yet I am considering the sails now. You SUCK! But on the other hand, how do you run all of the fore sails on a boat like this? I am confused at how much fore sail they put out on a run.
M.
Remember... if everyone could make these difficult models, they would.
Well, on a run, the clews of the staysails are allowed to run out to either side of the hull by slackening the sheetines, which is easier to understand if you look at a modern sailboat below. Note how the boom of the mainsail is swung out to port while the jibsail is out to starboard. It's not as effective as square sails, but it gets the job done.
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