agree you can get a set of dental picks on ebay aus for $5-$20 but the offer is highly appreciated
Hi Jim, do you expect it can be blown out with compressed air? Saves me a lot of time scraping all these sheets of timber.So...folks, I was looking into my kit box to make an inventory and came across that each CNC board required cleaning from CNC dust. I recall, Uwe already mentioned this in his post. I took one board and decided to clean using a simple tool made on-the-fly. Here is how the board looks without cleaning.
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and macro images, just to have an idea of t to deal with.
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A simple tool I made works just fine.
However, It took me almost 40 minutes to clean one board. With this speed, it will take forever to clean them all. So I thought, it should be a better way, to clean the debris. I took my favorite brass brush and ....miracle! It does a really good job get out sawdust. Brass wires don't scratch the wood but have enough power to remove the wood chips. Take a look at those tools.
The brass brush doesn't clean 100%, but it does remove close enough. Whatever left, I use my tool to finish it all. Here is how it does look when clean.
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I love this macro, it gives you an idea of a very uniform timber. The color of the timber is almost like Pear.
* One word of caution, do. When using the 'tool' (not the brush) apply very light pressure when removing debris, excessive force may destroy the nicely made edges. If you plunge the tool too deep, it will be hard to 'scoop' sawdust out, take less amount per scoop, specifically at the curve and slot areas.
...and now, I will clean all the boards, so they will be ready later.
to be continued... thanks for your interest.
The answer could be yes and no! Honestly, I didn't have a compressed air to try. But my vacuum cleaner is useless. Here is what i found: some boards is relatively easy to clean by running brass bristle back and forth. Most of sawdust will be gone, and you would need only to clean some spots. Some boards require only manual removal using the tool I made or dentists tool Trident mentioned in his post.Hi Jim, do you expect it can be blown out with compressed air? Saves me a lot of time scraping all these sheets of timber.
Thanks Poul,I guess some of it might be trivial to other masters and veterans but to me it is of high value. Should prevent a rookie like me from making too many mistakes. At least that is my hope.
...and the smell of a burning MDF ( from laser cut) across the roomLooks like a Da Vinci machine, impressive.
Yep, Mike!!! It should be lots of fun! Thanks for joining!!I know you have been waiting a long time for this Jim, can’t wait to see your build. It’s going to be awesome.
While the jig has sections that don’t need to be glued so that they can easily be taken apart, I don’t see any reason not to use glue to strengthen structures where necessary. The jig can be cut apart when the ship is ready to be removed since it’s made from soft material that you can cut apart without too much trouble. Clever design, though.Many thanks to all who are interested in this build log, for your comments and 'likes'
All the CNC boards are cleaned from sawdust, and we are moving to the actual kit assembly. Well... not quite the ship herself, but... The building JIG, or Berth how Trident Model called in the manual.
The instruction suggested starting with keel assemble but I made a decision and started with the jig first. The entire berth construction was made from the MDF board, residents on 4 boards, all laser cut. Please note: you will need to mark the parts before removing from the boards. This can be easily done using the end pages of the instruction manual.
The entire assembly is not difficult. Pictures in the manual are a self-explanatory and great help. Just follow each figure and don't skip to the next step until complete the previous. Here are some photos of different assembly steps.
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Most parts were glued together. Pay close attention to figures where it said 'Fix with Glue'. However, some parts are just assembled. Interesting locking mechanism introduced in this kit (see below)
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The parts where actual frames will rest are not glued!
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A few gotchas I wan to mention. When assembling 4 main columns: Parts CL28 and CL29 (page 9, fig.3.5) play close attention and make sure the part CL29 always facing the long side of the baseboard M10, while CL28 always facing the short. It does show this but on the next page (p.10)
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Below photo will explain the assembly on page 11 (fig. 3.9) Parts CL16 and CL17 (left and right sides)
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To be continued, until then Thank you for the interest!![]()
It's has to be a reason for it, thought. I didn't go that far to check, but...I always trying to think a couple steps ahead, it helps visualize the process.While the jig has sections that don’t need to be glued so that they can easily be taken apart, I don’t see any reason not to use glue to strengthen structures where necessary. The jig can be cut apart when the ship is ready to be removed since it’s made from soft material that you can cut apart without too much trouble. Clever design, though.
Hello Trident Model, while the plywood reduced overall kit weight, it does subject to temperature influences. Keel assembly template came deformed...It is not a problem at all, just so you know.Our next kit will try to make partial frame with plywood, which has reduced the overall weight of kit. Try to reduce the transportation cost. The next kit is in the process of technical verification. Due to many unique designs, it will be announced in the fashion when the design is mature. Thank you very much