The Schooner Bluenose 1921, POF Yuanqing Models 1:72 [COMPLETED BUILD]

Good afternoon, all.
I have now completed installation of all upper deck floor beams. Lots of small area filing and sanding but a good milestone for sure.

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Next, I prepared the openings for the main and fore mast. First, I filed the round openings to accommodate the mast dowel diameter then temporarily glued holding strips onto the piece (as they were to sit flush with the cross beams) and glued the piece securely in place. You can see I dry fitted the mast to check for
accuracy.

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Here are a couple shots of the lower bilge pump standpipes. Ill paint these pipes black, Jensen says on the real BN the pipes were enclosed in a wood box. Everything is fitting well so far.

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Well, that's it for now and thank you all for checking in.
Happy modeling!
A lot of nice progress with the completion of the deck beam, Daniel. And starting with positioning of the parts that goes through the openings in the deck.
Regard, Peter
 
Good afternoon and TGIF.
Moving along I have now installed all the lower crossbeams and the bow section crossbeams. When removing all the char I first scraped away all I could with a single edge razor blade then hand sanded down to clean material. I can tell you that whatever my next project is, it will be POF 100% CNC cut pieces if possible. Anyway, I'm getting excited at the prospect of working my way up to the main deck.
Here's two shots looking forward then aft.

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Next are a couple of pictures my hand cut tenon on the fore and main mast. I figured doing it now gave me a good view of how it fits.

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I hope you all have a great Mother's Day weekend!
Good morning Daniel. Wow! You owned this.
Good afternoon, all.
I have now completed installation of all upper deck floor beams. Lots of small area filing and sanding but a good milestone for sure.

View attachment 376033View attachment 376034

Next, I prepared the openings for the main and fore mast. First, I filed the round openings to accommodate the mast dowel diameter then temporarily glued holding strips onto the piece (as they were to sit flush with the cross beams) and glued the piece securely in place. You can see I dry fitted the mast to check for
accuracy.

View attachment 376035View attachment 376036View attachment 376037View attachment 376038

Here are a couple shots of the lower bilge pump standpipes. Ill paint these pipes black, Jensen says on the real BN the pipes were enclosed in a wood box. Everything is fitting well so far.

View attachment 376039View attachment 376040View attachment 376041


Well, that's it for now and thank you all for checking in.
Happy modeling!
…. And this! Very impressive work Daniel.
Cheers Grant
 
Beautiful work Daniel! When you update, you have a lot to show! Next update you will have masts in place! ROTF
Thanks Dean but mast coming next, well not yet. Like you I don't particularly like the prefabricated decking they supply so I ordered some Tanganika in the same 1x3 strips as a substitute while still using the kit supplied outside strips as a border. I have already carefully separated the prefab border from the port side, the wood should match close enough.
 
Like you I don't particularly like the prefabricated decking they supply
I have noticed that these preprinted parts are all the rage right now. It will be interesting to see if the modeling community will use them or not in the long term...

Then again, my wife assures me that I was just a phase - but I'm still hanging around ROTF.
 
I have noticed that these preprinted parts are all the rage right now. It will be interesting to see if the modeling community will use them or not in the long term...

Then again, my wife assures me that I was just a phase - but I'm still hanging around ROTF.
Interesting about preprints being popular. The laser beam just barley scores into the wood and when viewed up close you can see where the beam wobbles and makes small squiggles. Because of my slightly less than perfect deck beam installation, particularly at the framed openings, I need the freedom of individual planks to help make a better-looking deck.
 
Thanks Dean but mast coming next, well not yet. Like you I don't particularly like the prefabricated decking they supply so I ordered some Tanganika in the same 1x3 strips as a substitute while still using the kit supplied outside strips as a border. I have already carefully separated the prefab border from the port side, the wood should match close enough.
Sounds like a good plan Daniel! I couldn't bring myself to put printed deck sheets on a POF model. ;)
 
I have noticed that these preprinted parts are all the rage right now. It will be interesting to see if the modeling community will use them or not in the long term...
I couldn't convince myself using the preprinted deck parts, especially since going through all the effort to meticulously fabricate the frames and deck- and hold beams.
And it sure was worth the effort...
 
Interesting about preprints being popular. The laser beam just barley scores into the wood and when viewed up close you can see where the beam wobbles and makes small squiggles. Because of my slightly less than perfect deck beam installation, particularly at the framed openings, I need the freedom of individual planks to help make a better-looking deck.
To me, printed parts take away from realism. Simulating individual planks will never look as good as actual planks!
If you look at a wood deck or floor, you see a lot of variance from board to board. There is never the same wood grain or tone going from one board into the next. In addition, some of the printed sheets have wood grain or rings that are way out of scale! So it's a compromise, and one I could not be happy with personally. ;)
 
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