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thickness sanders
- Thread starter Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)
- Start date
- Watchers 21
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- Jul 26, 2013
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Old hard drive magnets and an Altoids tin work well for me to keep tools and parts close to where they need to be.
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2016
- Messages
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Kits often supply strip wood for planking. Some better kits now include wider or even laser cut “pre spiled” planking.
This strip wood means that the models are “strip planked” a technique not used to build actual large ships. Strip planking is promoted as an easy technique for amateurs to build small boats. The all wood canoes displaying different bright finished wood strips are “strippers.” The canoe is usually sheathed inside and outside with fiberglass and clear coated. Hardly still a wooden boat.
What Dave was suggesting is that a that a thickness sander is not an essential tool for producing the wide planks necessary to correctly plank a hull. I agree.
Roger
let's expand on this
many of the kits supply only one width of planking which makes planking a hull difficult. looking at the Gracie S you can see there are three widths of planking
to plank a hull you need different widths of planking
the shape of a gardboard plank will vary according to the shape of the hull and you can not shape a proper gardboard plank if all your planking is to narrow.
bottom planks require wider planks because they flare out at the stern. If all you have is narrow planks you have to add stealers.
As you plank up the hull planks will need to be tapered as they approach the bow. If the planks are to narrow then at the bow the plank will end up as a point. What you really need to do is add width at midship then taper to the bow.
This brings up making your own planking and the need for a thickness sander. There is a way to not having the need for a thickness sander. When planking a hull, kits use a double planking method which is just a kits version and not how hulls are planked. so, if you're going to do it right a single layer of planking is the way to go. The extremely thin outer planking in a kit leaves no room for error you may sand right through the planking.
When your finished planking a hull, the next step is to sand it so why bother pre sanding the planks? and actually why bother sanding the inside of the planking that rests against the hull structure?
Here is another way to approach the job without a thickness sander but you will need a table saw. If the saw is set up right and you have the proper blade then ripping planking stock should give you a fairly smooth surface of dimensional planking the final sanding is done after the hull is planked.
If your thinking you need both a saw and thickness sander you can save on the sander and invest in just the saw.
Consider the size of the saw small hobby saws may not be able to cut down sheet stock. In this case looking at the Gracie hull planking you need to order sheet stock to the width of the planking and not the thickness of the planking. So you will need sheets 1/8 , 1/4 and 3/8 wide for example. if the finish thickness is say 1/16 then set your saw at 1/16+ and rip the sheets down.
should we have a shop talk on saws?
This strip wood means that the models are “strip planked” a technique not used to build actual large ships. Strip planking is promoted as an easy technique for amateurs to build small boats. The all wood canoes displaying different bright finished wood strips are “strippers.” The canoe is usually sheathed inside and outside with fiberglass and clear coated. Hardly still a wooden boat.
What Dave was suggesting is that a that a thickness sander is not an essential tool for producing the wide planks necessary to correctly plank a hull. I agree.
Roger
let's expand on this
many of the kits supply only one width of planking which makes planking a hull difficult. looking at the Gracie S you can see there are three widths of planking
to plank a hull you need different widths of planking
the shape of a gardboard plank will vary according to the shape of the hull and you can not shape a proper gardboard plank if all your planking is to narrow.
bottom planks require wider planks because they flare out at the stern. If all you have is narrow planks you have to add stealers.
As you plank up the hull planks will need to be tapered as they approach the bow. If the planks are to narrow then at the bow the plank will end up as a point. What you really need to do is add width at midship then taper to the bow.
This brings up making your own planking and the need for a thickness sander. There is a way to not having the need for a thickness sander. When planking a hull, kits use a double planking method which is just a kits version and not how hulls are planked. so, if you're going to do it right a single layer of planking is the way to go. The extremely thin outer planking in a kit leaves no room for error you may sand right through the planking.
When your finished planking a hull, the next step is to sand it so why bother pre sanding the planks? and actually why bother sanding the inside of the planking that rests against the hull structure?
Here is another way to approach the job without a thickness sander but you will need a table saw. If the saw is set up right and you have the proper blade then ripping planking stock should give you a fairly smooth surface of dimensional planking the final sanding is done after the hull is planked.
If your thinking you need both a saw and thickness sander you can save on the sander and invest in just the saw.
Consider the size of the saw small hobby saws may not be able to cut down sheet stock. In this case looking at the Gracie hull planking you need to order sheet stock to the width of the planking and not the thickness of the planking. So you will need sheets 1/8 , 1/4 and 3/8 wide for example. if the finish thickness is say 1/16 then set your saw at 1/16+ and rip the sheets down.
should we have a shop talk on saws?
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2025
- Messages
- 171
- Points
- 78
Old thickness sander
This machine was based on plans sold by the NRG in 1983. I cannot find the plans.
The ad:
Thickness Sander
Plans & Instructions
Fine finish your own stock woods
accuracy to within 0.002 inches
$5.00 for copying and mailing
Eugene L. Larson
As shown at 1982 Conference
Front with dust hood.
Front
Left
Right
This machine was based on plans sold by the NRG in 1983. I cannot find the plans.
The ad:
Thickness Sander
Plans & Instructions
Fine finish your own stock woods
accuracy to within 0.002 inches
$5.00 for copying and mailing
Eugene L. Larson
As shown at 1982 Conference
Front with dust hood.
Front
Left
Right
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2025
- Messages
- 171
- Points
- 78
Back
Top
New motor
Hood top
Top
New motor
Hood top
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2025
- Messages
- 171
- Points
- 78
Hood side
Hood inside
At the time the readily available sandpaper was paper backed 11x9
I had a woodworker with a lathe turn a 9 inch circumference x 11 inch long drum from Hard Maple fixed to a 1/2 inch steel rod.
The paper was attached using Weldwood contact cement.
The original motor was a 1700 RPM 1/3 HP open Westinghouse.
The original design was a closed box of 3/4" plywood with only the hinged table gap providing the only ventilation.
There is a large piano hinge about 1/3 in from the back edge of the table.
Angle Aluminum was fixed to all four sides of the table.
Two medium duty pillow blocks with a 1/2" shaft collar on the axil.
The axil pulley is 6". The motor pulley is 4.5". The drum rotates more slowly than 1700 RPM but with more torque.
Less heat from friction and more power.
The gap adjustment is a threaded rod. A cap nut at the top meets a wide washer glued to the bottom of the table
A nut is welded to the top side of a steel corner brace. A wing nut locks the height, a dial wheel at the bottom end.
I tried to route a "V" channel in the drum for wedge clamps to hold the sandpaper . I could not pull it off. It did provide a place for the leading edge of the paper that did not have it hit the stock being sanded. This stopped the tear away.
The volume of fine sawdust produced is huge. Collection at the source is a necessity.
A frame of 3/8"x1/2" Pine sticks with walls made of three layers of Amazon corrugated box cardboard. The layers are bonded using a liberal and total layer of PVA glue. The outside is covered with Duct tape. 3/8"x1/2" sticks glued to the inside of the top are the anchor for the screws holding the vac hose socket. The vac hose is heavy. The dust collector box is not. The hose weight has to be neutralized. Bungee cords work.
Mistakes:
the closed box - the motor needs serious air flow. I build POF. A large ship can need 100 or more 2" x 24" boards of framing stock. A long session would lead to a hot motor. It would trip the thermal protector switch.
A capacitor motor - A sander does not need instant rated RPM. Taking a few seconds to get up to speed is not a problem. Having an expensive component that is something else to go bad is unnecessary.
The gap. A stock thickness capacity of slightly more than 2" would be helpful.
Weldwood contact cement - it does hold the paper and the now cloth backed sanding media. There is no solvent that will dissolve it that I can find. I probably would not want to get near it if there is a solvent. Mineral spirits will break the bond, It is a long hard job to remove the now sticky glue - physical scraping.
I recently found a latex cement that easily cleans with most organic solvents.
I still use this sander, It holds 80 grit. It does the bulk of the work to remove the bandsaw blade scaring. Multiple passes.
I burned out the original motor - 40 years was good service considering how I mistreated it.
New motor
1/2 HP 1,725 RPM frame 56
115V AC 8.0 A TEFC
shaft 5/8 in x 1-7/8 in
Split phase DAYTON $347.46
It is a bull.
I cut big holes in both sides of the box. It has its own cooling fan. Sawdust cannot get into it.
I planned an upgrade to the drum. Replace the Maple with Aluminum. It can be machined for wedges to hold the sanding medium. I mean Aluminum is light, right? Wrong! A 4" diameter by 11" long rod of solid Aluminum is heavy - really heavy. An upgrade for the pillow blocks - ones with grease fittings. Wedges and screws from a Jim sander. It will take a fabricator to center bore for the axel and grind the "V" channel. I am afraid to find out the cost of it.
Hood inside
At the time the readily available sandpaper was paper backed 11x9
I had a woodworker with a lathe turn a 9 inch circumference x 11 inch long drum from Hard Maple fixed to a 1/2 inch steel rod.
The paper was attached using Weldwood contact cement.
The original motor was a 1700 RPM 1/3 HP open Westinghouse.
The original design was a closed box of 3/4" plywood with only the hinged table gap providing the only ventilation.
There is a large piano hinge about 1/3 in from the back edge of the table.
Angle Aluminum was fixed to all four sides of the table.
Two medium duty pillow blocks with a 1/2" shaft collar on the axil.
The axil pulley is 6". The motor pulley is 4.5". The drum rotates more slowly than 1700 RPM but with more torque.
Less heat from friction and more power.
The gap adjustment is a threaded rod. A cap nut at the top meets a wide washer glued to the bottom of the table
A nut is welded to the top side of a steel corner brace. A wing nut locks the height, a dial wheel at the bottom end.
I tried to route a "V" channel in the drum for wedge clamps to hold the sandpaper . I could not pull it off. It did provide a place for the leading edge of the paper that did not have it hit the stock being sanded. This stopped the tear away.
The volume of fine sawdust produced is huge. Collection at the source is a necessity.
A frame of 3/8"x1/2" Pine sticks with walls made of three layers of Amazon corrugated box cardboard. The layers are bonded using a liberal and total layer of PVA glue. The outside is covered with Duct tape. 3/8"x1/2" sticks glued to the inside of the top are the anchor for the screws holding the vac hose socket. The vac hose is heavy. The dust collector box is not. The hose weight has to be neutralized. Bungee cords work.
Mistakes:
the closed box - the motor needs serious air flow. I build POF. A large ship can need 100 or more 2" x 24" boards of framing stock. A long session would lead to a hot motor. It would trip the thermal protector switch.
A capacitor motor - A sander does not need instant rated RPM. Taking a few seconds to get up to speed is not a problem. Having an expensive component that is something else to go bad is unnecessary.
The gap. A stock thickness capacity of slightly more than 2" would be helpful.
Weldwood contact cement - it does hold the paper and the now cloth backed sanding media. There is no solvent that will dissolve it that I can find. I probably would not want to get near it if there is a solvent. Mineral spirits will break the bond, It is a long hard job to remove the now sticky glue - physical scraping.
I recently found a latex cement that easily cleans with most organic solvents.
I still use this sander, It holds 80 grit. It does the bulk of the work to remove the bandsaw blade scaring. Multiple passes.
I burned out the original motor - 40 years was good service considering how I mistreated it.
New motor
1/2 HP 1,725 RPM frame 56
115V AC 8.0 A TEFC
shaft 5/8 in x 1-7/8 in
Split phase DAYTON $347.46
It is a bull.
I cut big holes in both sides of the box. It has its own cooling fan. Sawdust cannot get into it.
I planned an upgrade to the drum. Replace the Maple with Aluminum. It can be machined for wedges to hold the sanding medium. I mean Aluminum is light, right? Wrong! A 4" diameter by 11" long rod of solid Aluminum is heavy - really heavy. An upgrade for the pillow blocks - ones with grease fittings. Wedges and screws from a Jim sander. It will take a fabricator to center bore for the axel and grind the "V" channel. I am afraid to find out the cost of it.
The hood is genius. Simple, easily adapted to fit any shape, cheap and totally functional. I like it.
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2025
- Messages
- 171
- Points
- 78
Thank you for the complement. It does use a whole lot of Titebond.
I'm sure it does, but looking at it suggests it has been used a lot and survived. It is also easy to repair or replace, so the principle is extremely sound. Great piece of DIY.
A Jet 10/20 thickness sander. Do you find it worth the money? $ 1000 is a lot of money to have it take up shop space. I like the cabinet you built for it too. I see a Byrnes sander in the background. Is that a DIY sled and fence on it? The little bit I see, "What a great shop space". Is that walnut under the "Eanosic gages? I could ask questions for hours.I have the Byrns thickness sander but I found it difficult use and to get a consistent finish!! I ended up with the (Jet 10/20) it's small enough but will get the job done and save you a lot of time!!! I'm very happy with it so far, only thing is you have to play with the tracking on the feed table belt every so often, other than that it works fantastic!!!!
View attachment 557098
View attachment 557099
View attachment 557100
View attachment 557101
Merry Christmas to me! Finally finished my home-brew thickness sander.
The motor is from an old cordless drill, power supply from a laptop. Pulleys, belt, and PWM ordered from online (about $10 altogether). Everything else came from the scrap bin/parts stash.
I might add some kind of tensioner to the adjustment knob since it came out nearly frictionless and tends to rotate slightly when powered up, but not under load.
The motor is from an old cordless drill, power supply from a laptop. Pulleys, belt, and PWM ordered from online (about $10 altogether). Everything else came from the scrap bin/parts stash.
I might add some kind of tensioner to the adjustment knob since it came out nearly frictionless and tends to rotate slightly when powered up, but not under load.
Looks really solid and well designed. I love the 'bits and pieces', concept. Makes for a very eclectic look aesthetically.
I look forward to hearing about your initial trials.
I look forward to hearing about your initial trials.
Initial trial run revealed a few things.
First, the drive belt stretched more than I had anticipated and is now pretty loose even with the motor moved as far forward as the adjustments will allow. It still works, but the belt is looser than I would like. I’ve got a shorter one on order.
Second, I had placed some washers on the spindle to serve as spacers, but those don’t seem to do much other than cause unwanted vibration (on top of that already induced by the floppy belt.
Lastly, when working with narrow stock (which is what I built this for), it is very easy to create dimples if the workpiece lifts up from the table. This can be mitigated with technique and focus, but what I think is really needed are infeed and outfeed rollers. I’m going to need to think about how I can do that. They don’t need to be powered, but they will need to align perfectly with the sanding drum. Perhaps something spring-loaded.
First, the drive belt stretched more than I had anticipated and is now pretty loose even with the motor moved as far forward as the adjustments will allow. It still works, but the belt is looser than I would like. I’ve got a shorter one on order.
Second, I had placed some washers on the spindle to serve as spacers, but those don’t seem to do much other than cause unwanted vibration (on top of that already induced by the floppy belt.
Lastly, when working with narrow stock (which is what I built this for), it is very easy to create dimples if the workpiece lifts up from the table. This can be mitigated with technique and focus, but what I think is really needed are infeed and outfeed rollers. I’m going to need to think about how I can do that. They don’t need to be powered, but they will need to align perfectly with the sanding drum. Perhaps something spring-loaded.
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2025
- Messages
- 171
- Points
- 78
If you are going to have long sessions, do you have any concerns about the motor overheating with it being encased in wood?
I just eviscerated an old B&D cordless drill and converted it to work straight from a 3V-12V power supply - the NiCd being long dead.
It works but this drill motor would be weak and slow as a power supply for a thickness sander. You may find the cupping is more of a constant problem if you feed rate is too slow. Much over 1700 RPM will get into a burning the wood problem - too much under allows tics and switches during the slow feed to become a factor -maybe?
Unless you are going to do this outside - you will find that the volume of sawdust will be a problem unless it is extracted at its source.
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The ports on the sides are uncovered so it is able to vent. I checked it after running for quite a while and it didn’t seem noticeably warm.
I am running it only outside—my workshop is a spare bedroom that I share with a workspace for SWMBO. When we move to the new house I will have a dedicated workshop space and dust collection will certainly be in order.
Yep, I used your plans and for your sharing I am truly thankful. Building it was fun, using it, a joy especially now that it has extraction.
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2019
- Messages
- 5,524
- Points
- 738
Great to hear, thanksYep, I used your plans and for your sharing I am truly thankful. Building it was fun, using it, a joy especially now that it has extraction.