Titanic Trumpeter 1/200 by InkMot
Hello everyone,
I tried a few days ago to order a figurehead for a 1/200 Victory from Shapeways because the one that Caldercraft provides in their kit is not even to consider. But... just heard from Ben from MidwestModelShop that Shapeways went bankrupt. Now I'm looking where to find the stuff that was offered on their site. I also tried to order several items for my Trumpeter RMS Titanic. I build both models simultaneously. I have bought almost all of the parts that Woody's offers on his site, but still looking for more parts to enhance my models. Anyway the Figurehead for the HMS Victory is the most important for now because the thin one provided from Caldercraft really looks like a peace of cr... Sorry.
Thanks for any response. Daniel
I tried a few days ago to order a figurehead for a 1/200 Victory from Shapeways because the one that Caldercraft provides in their kit is not even to consider. But... just heard from Ben from MidwestModelShop that Shapeways went bankrupt. Now I'm looking where to find the stuff that was offered on their site. I also tried to order several items for my Trumpeter RMS Titanic. I build both models simultaneously. I have bought almost all of the parts that Woody's offers on his site, but still looking for more parts to enhance my models. Anyway the Figurehead for the HMS Victory is the most important for now because the thin one provided from Caldercraft really looks like a peace of cr... Sorry.
Thanks for any response. Daniel
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2021
- Messages
- 25
- Points
- 48
7. Correcting and installing the propeller wave wings
8. Bilge Keels:
I’m catching up on some progress since March, so stand by for several posts. ;-)
I did some minor modifications to the propeller wing busses. This was mostly etching the aft edges to shape them more into a taper. I also etched in the end of the plates. If you look at the photo below, you can see how the pates end and how the trailing edge of the propeller buss tapers.
I did not attempt to simulate how the plating curves to meet the hull, opting instead to just fill this with putty and move on. Another difference between the kit parts and the actual ship is the direction of the plating on the surface. The real plating ran parallel to the side of the hull, while the plating on the kit parts run parallel to the propeller shaft. I’ve come to accept that there are details that I notice but few others will care about and I’ve chosen to look past them in favor of finishing this project in a reasonable amount of time.
This image shows the etching work on the trailing edge of the propeller buss and the tapering on the trailing edge. You can also see where I’ve filled in and shaped the joint to simulate the curves on the real ship.
Here are two views of the completed and primered stern area. Note that I also added the pad eyes on the stern plates that were used for attaching block and tackle for propeller maintenance. These were PE parts that were incredibly tiny. Several have been knocked off during construction or lost during assembly.. I’ll need to come back later to repair these.
Another addition has been the bilge keels from Model Shapeways. I forgot to take photos of this process. If you’re planning to replace the kit bilge keels with the available 3D printed versions like I did, or if you’re just planning to make your own out of styrene, I’d suggest waiting until you’re about to paint the hull before putting them on. Otherwise, you’ll keep knocking them off. Ask me how I know. ;-)
Since I’m not sure if I mentioned this previously, note that the rudder is a replacement 3D-printed part from Shapeways.
Next Steps:
8. Bilge Keels:
I’m catching up on some progress since March, so stand by for several posts. ;-)
I did some minor modifications to the propeller wing busses. This was mostly etching the aft edges to shape them more into a taper. I also etched in the end of the plates. If you look at the photo below, you can see how the pates end and how the trailing edge of the propeller buss tapers.
I did not attempt to simulate how the plating curves to meet the hull, opting instead to just fill this with putty and move on. Another difference between the kit parts and the actual ship is the direction of the plating on the surface. The real plating ran parallel to the side of the hull, while the plating on the kit parts run parallel to the propeller shaft. I’ve come to accept that there are details that I notice but few others will care about and I’ve chosen to look past them in favor of finishing this project in a reasonable amount of time.
This image shows the etching work on the trailing edge of the propeller buss and the tapering on the trailing edge. You can also see where I’ve filled in and shaped the joint to simulate the curves on the real ship.
Here are two views of the completed and primered stern area. Note that I also added the pad eyes on the stern plates that were used for attaching block and tackle for propeller maintenance. These were PE parts that were incredibly tiny. Several have been knocked off during construction or lost during assembly.. I’ll need to come back later to repair these.
Another addition has been the bilge keels from Model Shapeways. I forgot to take photos of this process. If you’re planning to replace the kit bilge keels with the available 3D printed versions like I did, or if you’re just planning to make your own out of styrene, I’d suggest waiting until you’re about to paint the hull before putting them on. Otherwise, you’ll keep knocking them off. Ask me how I know. ;-)
Since I’m not sure if I mentioned this previously, note that the rudder is a replacement 3D-printed part from Shapeways.
Next Steps:
- Drilling portholes
- Painting the Hull
Last edited:
Great job that I will follow sinds I also started up a Trumpeter Titanic. Already ordered some Maritime model, AK and MiniBrass stuff. The only problem seems to be finding a hawse pipe. ShapeWays does not exist any longer… If somebody has a idea where to find it!
I also received stuff from Andrew 3D to strengthen the hull and in the meantime offers a base for the light kit from Magic Scale Modeling. Great enhancements.
Kind regards to all,
Daniel
I also received stuff from Andrew 3D to strengthen the hull and in the meantime offers a base for the light kit from Magic Scale Modeling. Great enhancements.
Kind regards to all,
Daniel
Have you seen the aftermarket stuff for Titanic from the midwest model shop ?
Thanks for your reply Bryian. Yes I did and already received a few of their parts. But they don’t sell the hawse pipe either. Daniel
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2021
- Messages
- 25
- Points
- 48
It’s been a while since I’ve posted updates, yet I’ve been working. Stand by for multiple postings!
Correcting and installing the propeller wave wings: This involves correcting the plating and thickness and blending to hull.
The propeller wave wings that come with the kit need to be modified to make them appear similar to what was on the actual ship. There are many aftermarket alternatives that have been 3D-Printed. I opted to just modify what the kit gave me, because lord knows I’ve invested in a lot of extras already.
Here’s the starboard kit wave wing installed. There’s a bit of putty on the outside and you can see where I’ve thinned out the trailing edge of the wing. The wing on the actual ship has a curved or contoured transition into the side of the hull. Note how the kit wing just stabs into the hull without any contouring. We’ll fix that. The wing out of the box does not have a tapered trailing edge like on the original (see photo at top of post). I shaved this with an x-acto knife and scribed in the plating.
Here’s a close-up of the trailing edge, showing the tapering and scribing. Note also putty where the wing meets the hull to create the contoured transition into the hull plating.
Port wing with sanded and smoothed putty seems
Another view of the seems with a better view of the trailing edge. You can see how I scribed an area where the plating meets the trailing edge of the wing.
Below is a view of both wings and the bottom of the hull. Note the MiniBrass hull plating detail. (I REALLY WANT YOU TO NOTICE the MiniBrass hull plating detail because nobody else will as it will be mostly hidden from view when on display…and I spent a ton of hours adding it to the hull.
All in all, I’m satisfied with the kit wings. Sure, the plating is going in the wrong direction, but who will notice? On to drilling portholes!
Correcting and installing the propeller wave wings: This involves correcting the plating and thickness and blending to hull.
The propeller wave wings that come with the kit need to be modified to make them appear similar to what was on the actual ship. There are many aftermarket alternatives that have been 3D-Printed. I opted to just modify what the kit gave me, because lord knows I’ve invested in a lot of extras already.
Here’s the starboard kit wave wing installed. There’s a bit of putty on the outside and you can see where I’ve thinned out the trailing edge of the wing. The wing on the actual ship has a curved or contoured transition into the side of the hull. Note how the kit wing just stabs into the hull without any contouring. We’ll fix that. The wing out of the box does not have a tapered trailing edge like on the original (see photo at top of post). I shaved this with an x-acto knife and scribed in the plating.
Here’s a close-up of the trailing edge, showing the tapering and scribing. Note also putty where the wing meets the hull to create the contoured transition into the hull plating.
Port wing with sanded and smoothed putty seems
Another view of the seems with a better view of the trailing edge. You can see how I scribed an area where the plating meets the trailing edge of the wing.
Below is a view of both wings and the bottom of the hull. Note the MiniBrass hull plating detail. (I REALLY WANT YOU TO NOTICE the MiniBrass hull plating detail because nobody else will as it will be mostly hidden from view when on display…and I spent a ton of hours adding it to the hull.
All in all, I’m satisfied with the kit wings. Sure, the plating is going in the wrong direction, but who will notice? On to drilling portholes!
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2021
- Messages
- 25
- Points
- 48
Drilling Portholes:
I had ambitions to add the MiniBrass plating sections for B and C Decks. I purchased it…and then decided that I didn’t want to do major surgery again on the hull for what would be a subtle change. For any project to get done, scope must be managed. Here’s what that kit looked like before I sold it:
I opted instead to purchase the Scale Warship PE porthole inserts and to not worry if some portholes were in the wrong place or non existent on the real ship. Nobody is going to notice.
Here are the Scale Warship porthole frames. The kit comes with replacement gangway doors (you can do open or closed) and it includes porthole glass.
Before you drill your portholes, ask yourself this question: Why?
Seriously. it’s a ton of work. There’s around a thousand portholes on this hull, give or take. It’s going to take you a long time. If you’re planning on lighting the kit then go ahead and drill. If not, may I suggest that you just fill each porthole with either a drop of clear gloss or Kristal Klear after you’re done painting?
Anyway, about drilling portholes…
To drill the portholes, I purchased a number of excellent drill bits from Drillbits Unlimited. (https://drillbitsunlimited.com). These guys are great! They were prompt with answering questions, quick in shipping and their pricing is reasonable.
Here is the set of drills I purchased for my project. I suggest that you decide how you plan to glaze your portholes BEFORE you purchase your drills. If you’re planning to use fiber optic, as demonstrated by the Midwest Model Shop, make sure you buy drills to accommodate the limited selection of fiber optic diameters. I made the mistake of measuring each molded porthole size with a micrometer and then ordering my drills for each measured size. The result was that the fiber optic sizes used by the Midwest Model Shop would not fit all of the holes I drilled. I ended up going with a mix of fiber optic and Kristal Klear (more on this in a later post). I was not going to re-drill a ton of holes.
To drill the holes, I purchased the Tamaya Drill. This is an actual kit that you have to assemble. It cost about $35, but it does an excellent job drilling portholes. You could also use a pin vice, but I don’t think you could fit drills like the ones I purchased in a pin vise. Also, your hand is going to hurt a lot. Do not attempt to use a Dremel tool for this, unless you like big burn holes in your hull.
Here’s a shot of the hull in mid-hole drill. Note that my aftermarket bilge keels are mounted on the hull. If I’m ever stupid enough to build this kit again, I’ll mount those bilge keels just before I paint the hull. They’re fragile and they break easily. BTW, you can make realistic bilge keels with strips of thin styrene and save yourself a bit of money.
I’ll cover the mounting of the Scale Warship porthole frames in a later post, since they get installed after you paint the hull.
I had ambitions to add the MiniBrass plating sections for B and C Decks. I purchased it…and then decided that I didn’t want to do major surgery again on the hull for what would be a subtle change. For any project to get done, scope must be managed. Here’s what that kit looked like before I sold it:
I opted instead to purchase the Scale Warship PE porthole inserts and to not worry if some portholes were in the wrong place or non existent on the real ship. Nobody is going to notice.
Here are the Scale Warship porthole frames. The kit comes with replacement gangway doors (you can do open or closed) and it includes porthole glass.
Before you drill your portholes, ask yourself this question: Why?
Seriously. it’s a ton of work. There’s around a thousand portholes on this hull, give or take. It’s going to take you a long time. If you’re planning on lighting the kit then go ahead and drill. If not, may I suggest that you just fill each porthole with either a drop of clear gloss or Kristal Klear after you’re done painting?
Anyway, about drilling portholes…
To drill the portholes, I purchased a number of excellent drill bits from Drillbits Unlimited. (https://drillbitsunlimited.com). These guys are great! They were prompt with answering questions, quick in shipping and their pricing is reasonable.
Here is the set of drills I purchased for my project. I suggest that you decide how you plan to glaze your portholes BEFORE you purchase your drills. If you’re planning to use fiber optic, as demonstrated by the Midwest Model Shop, make sure you buy drills to accommodate the limited selection of fiber optic diameters. I made the mistake of measuring each molded porthole size with a micrometer and then ordering my drills for each measured size. The result was that the fiber optic sizes used by the Midwest Model Shop would not fit all of the holes I drilled. I ended up going with a mix of fiber optic and Kristal Klear (more on this in a later post). I was not going to re-drill a ton of holes.
To drill the holes, I purchased the Tamaya Drill. This is an actual kit that you have to assemble. It cost about $35, but it does an excellent job drilling portholes. You could also use a pin vice, but I don’t think you could fit drills like the ones I purchased in a pin vise. Also, your hand is going to hurt a lot. Do not attempt to use a Dremel tool for this, unless you like big burn holes in your hull.
Here’s a shot of the hull in mid-hole drill. Note that my aftermarket bilge keels are mounted on the hull. If I’m ever stupid enough to build this kit again, I’ll mount those bilge keels just before I paint the hull. They’re fragile and they break easily. BTW, you can make realistic bilge keels with strips of thin styrene and save yourself a bit of money.
I’ll cover the mounting of the Scale Warship porthole frames in a later post, since they get installed after you paint the hull.