Titanic Trumpeter 1/200 by InkMot
Hello everyone,
I tried a few days ago to order a figurehead for a 1/200 Victory from Shapeways because the one that Caldercraft provides in their kit is not even to consider. But... just heard from Ben from MidwestModelShop that Shapeways went bankrupt. Now I'm looking where to find the stuff that was offered on their site. I also tried to order several items for my Trumpeter RMS Titanic. I build both models simultaneously. I have bought almost all of the parts that Woody's offers on his site, but still looking for more parts to enhance my models. Anyway the Figurehead for the HMS Victory is the most important for now because the thin one provided from Caldercraft really looks like a peace of cr... Sorry.
Thanks for any response. Daniel
I tried a few days ago to order a figurehead for a 1/200 Victory from Shapeways because the one that Caldercraft provides in their kit is not even to consider. But... just heard from Ben from MidwestModelShop that Shapeways went bankrupt. Now I'm looking where to find the stuff that was offered on their site. I also tried to order several items for my Trumpeter RMS Titanic. I build both models simultaneously. I have bought almost all of the parts that Woody's offers on his site, but still looking for more parts to enhance my models. Anyway the Figurehead for the HMS Victory is the most important for now because the thin one provided from Caldercraft really looks like a peace of cr... Sorry.
Thanks for any response. Daniel
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2021
- Messages
- 23
- Points
- 48
7. Correcting and installing the propeller wave wings
8. Bilge Keels:
I’m catching up on some progress since March, so stand by for several posts. ;-)
I did some minor modifications to the propeller wing busses. This was mostly etching the aft edges to shape them more into a taper. I also etched in the end of the plates. If you look at the photo below, you can see how the pates end and how the trailing edge of the propeller buss tapers.
I did not attempt to simulate how the plating curves to meet the hull, opting instead to just fill this with putty and move on. Another difference between the kit parts and the actual ship is the direction of the plating on the surface. The real plating ran parallel to the side of the hull, while the plating on the kit parts run parallel to the propeller shaft. I’ve come to accept that there are details that I notice but few others will care about and I’ve chosen to look past them in favor of finishing this project in a reasonable amount of time.
This image shows the etching work on the trailing edge of the propeller buss and the tapering on the trailing edge. You can also see where I’ve filled in and shaped the joint to simulate the curves on the real ship.
Here are two views of the completed and primered stern area. Note that I also added the pad eyes on the stern plates that were used for attaching block and tackle for propeller maintenance. These were PE parts that were incredibly tiny. Several have been knocked off during construction or lost during assembly.. I’ll need to come back later to repair these.
Another addition has been the bilge keels from Model Shapeways. I forgot to take photos of this process. If you’re planning to replace the kit bilge keels with the available 3D printed versions like I did, or if you’re just planning to make your own out of styrene, I’d suggest waiting until you’re about to paint the hull before putting them on. Otherwise, you’ll keep knocking them off. Ask me how I know. ;-)
Since I’m not sure if I mentioned this previously, note that the rudder is a replacement 3D-printed part from Shapeways.
Next Steps:
8. Bilge Keels:
I’m catching up on some progress since March, so stand by for several posts. ;-)
I did some minor modifications to the propeller wing busses. This was mostly etching the aft edges to shape them more into a taper. I also etched in the end of the plates. If you look at the photo below, you can see how the pates end and how the trailing edge of the propeller buss tapers.
I did not attempt to simulate how the plating curves to meet the hull, opting instead to just fill this with putty and move on. Another difference between the kit parts and the actual ship is the direction of the plating on the surface. The real plating ran parallel to the side of the hull, while the plating on the kit parts run parallel to the propeller shaft. I’ve come to accept that there are details that I notice but few others will care about and I’ve chosen to look past them in favor of finishing this project in a reasonable amount of time.
This image shows the etching work on the trailing edge of the propeller buss and the tapering on the trailing edge. You can also see where I’ve filled in and shaped the joint to simulate the curves on the real ship.
Here are two views of the completed and primered stern area. Note that I also added the pad eyes on the stern plates that were used for attaching block and tackle for propeller maintenance. These were PE parts that were incredibly tiny. Several have been knocked off during construction or lost during assembly.. I’ll need to come back later to repair these.
Another addition has been the bilge keels from Model Shapeways. I forgot to take photos of this process. If you’re planning to replace the kit bilge keels with the available 3D printed versions like I did, or if you’re just planning to make your own out of styrene, I’d suggest waiting until you’re about to paint the hull before putting them on. Otherwise, you’ll keep knocking them off. Ask me how I know. ;-)
Since I’m not sure if I mentioned this previously, note that the rudder is a replacement 3D-printed part from Shapeways.
Next Steps:
- Drilling portholes
- Painting the Hull
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Great job that I will follow sinds I also started up a Trumpeter Titanic. Already ordered some Maritime model, AK and MiniBrass stuff. The only problem seems to be finding a hawse pipe. ShapeWays does not exist any longer… If somebody has a idea where to find it!
I also received stuff from Andrew 3D to strengthen the hull and in the meantime offers a base for the light kit from Magic Scale Modeling. Great enhancements.
Kind regards to all,
Daniel
I also received stuff from Andrew 3D to strengthen the hull and in the meantime offers a base for the light kit from Magic Scale Modeling. Great enhancements.
Kind regards to all,
Daniel
Have you seen the aftermarket stuff for Titanic from the midwest model shop ?
Thanks for your reply Bryian. Yes I did and already received a few of their parts. But they don’t sell the hawse pipe either. Daniel