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LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
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- Joined
- Dec 5, 2022
- Messages
- 402
- Points
- 158
Hey Daniel,
You don't think of anything bad and who do you meet here? It's great that you're here and I'm really pleased.
I can't wait to see how you get on, and of course I'm also curious to see what your Victory from 1765 will look like, especially as I want to build it too. I'm currently working on my little dinghy for the Athena. I've already used a few of your parts in the dinghy. Great.
Best regards
Günther
You don't think of anything bad and who do you meet here? It's great that you're here and I'm really pleased.
I can't wait to see how you get on, and of course I'm also curious to see what your Victory from 1765 will look like, especially as I want to build it too. I'm currently working on my little dinghy for the Athena. I've already used a few of your parts in the dinghy. Great.
Best regards
Günther
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2021
- Messages
- 308
- Points
- 323
Waiting for Godot ...
Since the geometry of the boats is highly complex, the printer has to run at the highest resolution, and that takes time ...
That's why I used the time in between to finish a few other things, or rather to give them a final polish.
All the bitts on the upper deck have now been joined by the bitts on the upper battery deck, which hold all the halyards of the main mast. Big strong things with nice rollers in the base.
Here with the swifel pump in between.
You can already admire them in the open heart of my Vic.
The matching deck beam supports. Cheaper by the dozen. A bit of drybrushing here too to modulate the shape.
Plus the small kit of the riding bitts and what you can be done with it.
And I would like to take this opportunity to out myself again: As much as I like and need high-quality tools, but often nothing beats the basics!
https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Sammler42/Victory_Main_Mast_Bitts_
[img]https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Sammler42/Sanding_tools_2997.jpg
- A sheet of sandpaper on the table and you can make smooth and even strokes when sanding
- Sandpaper stuck to wooden sticks using double-sided tape allows sanding tools to be cut to the exact width of the workpiece using the width of the sticks. Some of the sticks shown here are exactly the width of the gunports of my Constitution.
- Right-angled blocks facilitate sanding at a 90° angle.
And when the paper is blunt, a new one is put on.
And here is the guessing game of what else I have prepared
Best regards, Daniel
Since the geometry of the boats is highly complex, the printer has to run at the highest resolution, and that takes time ...
That's why I used the time in between to finish a few other things, or rather to give them a final polish.
All the bitts on the upper deck have now been joined by the bitts on the upper battery deck, which hold all the halyards of the main mast. Big strong things with nice rollers in the base.
Here with the swifel pump in between.
You can already admire them in the open heart of my Vic.
The matching deck beam supports. Cheaper by the dozen. A bit of drybrushing here too to modulate the shape.
Plus the small kit of the riding bitts and what you can be done with it.
And I would like to take this opportunity to out myself again: As much as I like and need high-quality tools, but often nothing beats the basics!
https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Sammler42/Victory_Main_Mast_Bitts_
[img]https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Sammler42/Sanding_tools_2997.jpg
- A sheet of sandpaper on the table and you can make smooth and even strokes when sanding
- Sandpaper stuck to wooden sticks using double-sided tape allows sanding tools to be cut to the exact width of the workpiece using the width of the sticks. Some of the sticks shown here are exactly the width of the gunports of my Constitution.
- Right-angled blocks facilitate sanding at a 90° angle.
And when the paper is blunt, a new one is put on.
And here is the guessing game of what else I have prepared
Best regards, Daniel
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2022
- Messages
- 154
- Points
- 88
When you said waiting for Godot, I though Gal Gadot was arriving at your house! lolol
I have no idea what that new part is.
I have no idea what that new part is.
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2021
- Messages
- 308
- Points
- 323
I had finally found the time to finish off a few little things around the stove. It was slowly becoming what I wanted
Here are two colour versions, one with a classic red brick floor and one with the typical southern English yellow-beige floor covering.
And here in the detail shots you can also see the warming trays that could be hung on the handrail of the cooker.
Of course, the stove also includes the kitchen area. I have chosen the wickerwork that can be seen on the contemporary model of the Princess Royal and others.
The whole thing is a cute little kit of 22 parts. The drive chain is twisted copper wire and the rail is bent wire, for which there is a template.
Here are a few more details:
The base plate with catch tray and tube for the fresh air supply from the deck below ...
... the stove body ...
... the holders for the skewers ...
... the distiller with all its attachments ...
... ... and the cowl, all that's missing is the round cover plate against rain and storm.
As usual, the ensemble was finished with a little diluted ink and a white drybrush, and the metal parts with a little graphite.
XXXDAn
PS: And it took me a while before I had the courage to print the warming trays directly and completely. But all the attempts to glue the holders on with holders were just horrible in the result ...
Here are two colour versions, one with a classic red brick floor and one with the typical southern English yellow-beige floor covering.
And here in the detail shots you can also see the warming trays that could be hung on the handrail of the cooker.
Of course, the stove also includes the kitchen area. I have chosen the wickerwork that can be seen on the contemporary model of the Princess Royal and others.
The whole thing is a cute little kit of 22 parts. The drive chain is twisted copper wire and the rail is bent wire, for which there is a template.
Here are a few more details:
The base plate with catch tray and tube for the fresh air supply from the deck below ...
... the stove body ...
... the holders for the skewers ...
... the distiller with all its attachments ...
... ... and the cowl, all that's missing is the round cover plate against rain and storm.
As usual, the ensemble was finished with a little diluted ink and a white drybrush, and the metal parts with a little graphite.
XXXDAn
PS: And it took me a while before I had the courage to print the warming trays directly and completely. But all the attempts to glue the holders on with holders were just horrible in the result ...
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2022
- Messages
- 154
- Points
- 88
You never fail to amaze Dan! Got the repaired prop fitted back on the old Formula yesterday, so we are back on the water
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2021
- Messages
- 308
- Points
- 323
And once again I've made a mistake. This drawing from 1815 shows the loading of the large launch with barrels of drinking water.
And so, of course, I had to know how big the barrels were in order to put them in my launch. These large barrels are so-called Leaguers with the equivalent of 480 liters. So with wood, they weigh over half a ton. And then 14 of them in the boat, making well over 7 tons.
The research was somewhat difficult, as the volumes are often mentioned, but not the exact dimensions. In the meantime, I have researched the sizes of the whole family more or less reliably, so that I was able to start on the models.
Here are the 3 sizes for the model: Leaguer 480 liters, Puncheon 318 liters, Hogshead 200 liters and a small powder keg. Each in three parts, as I don't want the supports to be visible as usual.
Family picture with avatar.
And after priming and inking came the challenge: blackening the hoops.
At the back right was with the brush. On a good day, I get a few hoops, but then it's all over.
, that wasn't a particularly good day anyway. So I tried the back left with a felt-tip pen, which was better, but still uneven and above all an unpleasant metallic-reddish sheen.
And in front a completely different approach, because I remembered that the prints are made of black resin. I quickly tried to see if sanding the hoops worked, and lo and behold ...
... it works like a charm!
The powder keg was given its copper hoops and light-colored withy rings and joined the others. No iron hoops on purpose, because they could cause sparks and that would be really stupid. The copper is also nicely embedded between the withy rings so that it doesn't stick out. There are wonderful artifacts showing this, recovered from the HMS Invincible, which sank in 1758.
And that brings us very close to what I wanted
XXXDAn
And so, of course, I had to know how big the barrels were in order to put them in my launch. These large barrels are so-called Leaguers with the equivalent of 480 liters. So with wood, they weigh over half a ton. And then 14 of them in the boat, making well over 7 tons.
The research was somewhat difficult, as the volumes are often mentioned, but not the exact dimensions. In the meantime, I have researched the sizes of the whole family more or less reliably, so that I was able to start on the models.
Here are the 3 sizes for the model: Leaguer 480 liters, Puncheon 318 liters, Hogshead 200 liters and a small powder keg. Each in three parts, as I don't want the supports to be visible as usual.
Family picture with avatar.
And after priming and inking came the challenge: blackening the hoops.
At the back right was with the brush. On a good day, I get a few hoops, but then it's all over.
, that wasn't a particularly good day anyway. So I tried the back left with a felt-tip pen, which was better, but still uneven and above all an unpleasant metallic-reddish sheen.And in front a completely different approach, because I remembered that the prints are made of black resin. I quickly tried to see if sanding the hoops worked, and lo and behold ...
... it works like a charm!
The powder keg was given its copper hoops and light-colored withy rings and joined the others. No iron hoops on purpose, because they could cause sparks and that would be really stupid. The copper is also nicely embedded between the withy rings so that it doesn't stick out. There are wonderful artifacts showing this, recovered from the HMS Invincible, which sank in 1758.
And that brings us very close to what I wanted
XXXDAn
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2022
- Messages
- 154
- Points
- 88
This is just modelling at it's best. Brilliant fix on the barrels to just sand off the rings, and to even find the details that the barrels were there in the first place. Have you tried them in your boats yet? Regards, Pete
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2021
- Messages
- 308
- Points
- 323
At the same time, work continued on the boats, especially on the 32-foot launch.
The nice thing about printing is that you can simply repeat, so suddenly there were 4 hulls in front of me. What am I supposed to do with them again?
The little devilish voice inside me then came immediately: Build it! Build it!
Well, that's the way it happened.
Here are the 4 steps of the interior: Priming black to prevent flashes, dark brown for the inner body, thin black ink for depth and usage, and white drybrush to bring out the textures again.
On the other hand, I painted the interior parts with a lighter shade of brown, inked and brushed them to emphasise them a little. It could also have been interpreted as different wood.
But when I looked at it ...
... and compared it with the first launch at the front in a completely lighter colour ...
... it looked too much like a toy to me, and the dafi had to do what it does best - tear it down! - and everything flew out again ...
... ... and the inside of the boats has been coloured lighter. Fits much better now
Here is a picture showing how the barrels fit - that's easily over 7 tonnes of weight -, in the middle the rowing version, and the third one still without thwarts , where you can see the height of the stretchers above the inner floor. Then you can also see that the rowers' feet would otherwise have been hanging in the air and intensive pulling would not have been so successful.
So that I don't always get the thwarts mixed up, I have given them markings on the underside. The stretchers too, by the way.
XXXDAn
The nice thing about printing is that you can simply repeat, so suddenly there were 4 hulls in front of me. What am I supposed to do with them again?
The little devilish voice inside me then came immediately: Build it! Build it!
Well, that's the way it happened.
Here are the 4 steps of the interior: Priming black to prevent flashes, dark brown for the inner body, thin black ink for depth and usage, and white drybrush to bring out the textures again.
On the other hand, I painted the interior parts with a lighter shade of brown, inked and brushed them to emphasise them a little. It could also have been interpreted as different wood.
But when I looked at it ...
... and compared it with the first launch at the front in a completely lighter colour ...
... it looked too much like a toy to me, and the dafi had to do what it does best - tear it down! - and everything flew out again ...
... ... and the inside of the boats has been coloured lighter. Fits much better now
Here is a picture showing how the barrels fit - that's easily over 7 tonnes of weight -, in the middle the rowing version, and the third one still without thwarts , where you can see the height of the stretchers above the inner floor. Then you can also see that the rowers' feet would otherwise have been hanging in the air and intensive pulling would not have been so successful.
So that I don't always get the thwarts mixed up, I have given them markings on the underside. The stretchers too, by the way.
XXXDAn
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2022
- Messages
- 154
- Points
- 88
Superb as always Dan. Will be ordering a set as soon as they hit your website.
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2021
- Messages
- 308
- Points
- 323
At the moment all parts are optimised for 1:100. I usually do not scale more than 5% max 10 % as the details are always optimised for a special scale and beyond that too often it starts to look ridiculous as details get too prominent or disappear depending the direction. But always open for discussions
XXXDAn
XXXDAn
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2021
- Messages
- 308
- Points
- 323
Yes unfortunately.
It is a fairy tale that one can scale the printing parts however you want. At least not if one wants to have really top notch optimised parts. For the barrels I hope that version 13 will be the final one. It takes several test prints and reprogramming until the parts will show all the details wanted even when painted. And still do not look like doll houses assecories
XXXDAn
It is a fairy tale that one can scale the printing parts however you want. At least not if one wants to have really top notch optimised parts. For the barrels I hope that version 13 will be the final one. It takes several test prints and reprogramming until the parts will show all the details wanted even when painted. And still do not look like doll houses assecories
XXXDAn
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2022
- Messages
- 402
- Points
- 158
Yes, you're right. As the saying goes: "God put diligence before success." This is especially true in modelling. A lot of work and research as well as realisation and sometimes rebuilding again and again ... But when the model is finished, in all its glory, the pride is there and you are incredibly happy.
Cheers
Günther
Cheers
Günther