Lots of helpful tips. Keep them coming.
Lanyards -
well, Nylon is difficult to work with - Period - The best method, which is not available to you now would have been Cotton line AND the use of good beeswax. After several passes of the line through the wax, I see if the line with the deadeye on it will LAY like it should before I rig up the lanyards. This might not be the best explanation.
well, Nylon is difficult to work with - Period - The best method, which is not available to you now would have been Cotton line AND the use of good beeswax. After several passes of the line through the wax, I see if the line with the deadeye on it will LAY like it should before I rig up the lanyards. This might not be the best explanation.
I am using cotton thread with beeswax. Not sure if I need to make more passes. I’ve started using a wire to hold the dead eyes in place while I fasten shrouds and stays. That seems to help some.
I agree about the wire hold - that does help. As the lanyard line passes from hole to hole it should keep the lanyard/deadeye fixed in one position. However, there will always be 'some' twist'.
To get around this, you will tie up your Ratlines starting at the first lowest nearest the deadeyes. While you are tieing your ratline, then is the time to hold the lanyard straight and when you tie the ratline, it will help hold the deadeye/lanyard straight. This is really the trick that I remember on mine.
To get around this, you will tie up your Ratlines starting at the first lowest nearest the deadeyes. While you are tieing your ratline, then is the time to hold the lanyard straight and when you tie the ratline, it will help hold the deadeye/lanyard straight. This is really the trick that I remember on mine.
I forgot - usually, there is also a wooden spar or metal rod that is mounted horizontally from the first shroud pair to the last shroud pair near the deadeyes. (right above the deadeyes). When this spar is mounted, this is also a method to keep the Deadeyes/Lanyards in a nice fixed manner (nontwisted)
Each Shroud line will have a line served to that spar.
(see the RED spar as mounted right above each deadeye - this fashion can keep the deadeyes from twisting. I hope this is more help than hinderance.
Each Shroud line will have a line served to that spar.
(see the RED spar as mounted right above each deadeye - this fashion can keep the deadeyes from twisting. I hope this is more help than hinderance.
I didn’t see anything like this in my kit diagrams. I think they may be a little simplistic. It’s too late now. I’m not going to wreck the foremast and start over. I’ll look at some photos of the real Constitution. I’ll remember it for my next ship.....if the Admiral lets me do another one.
Today’s progress on the yards. I can read all the tips and watch all the videos, but I just don’t seem to get it until I’ve done it with my own hands and mess it up a few times.
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Victator,
I realize that your kit might be more simplistic. I have built some of those that do in fact leave out a lot of detail. Since you say that you are relatively new at this, you are doing a good job of rigging. Especially the type and size of the ship.
So, how many color and sizes of rigging line they give you ?
I realize that your kit might be more simplistic. I have built some of those that do in fact leave out a lot of detail. Since you say that you are relatively new at this, you are doing a good job of rigging. Especially the type and size of the ship.
So, how many color and sizes of rigging line they give you ?
Thats a new past time, shooting airmast hockey... I think it'll catch on around here 
Really nice rigging job though, we all learn by trial and error sir
Really nice rigging job though, we all learn by trial and error sir
The long dowel on the air hockey table is my new main mast. Couldn’t find mm so had to do the math and convert to inches. I inadvertently cut my original main mast to make my foremast. The remaining foremast wasn’t long enough for the main mast. I’m sure no one has done anything like that before.
I received three sizes (all too thick) and they are all white. I knew that the shrouds, ratlines, and stays should be dark. I just didn’t know which were stays and which were running at the time. I guess mistakes are the best teachers. I used embroidery floss for my shrouds and black thread for the rats. It’s been good. Probably should have started with something less challenging, but it’s been fun and I like the venue to share and learn.
The admiral says that’s cute.Thats a new past time, shooting airmast hockey... I think it'll catch on around here
Really nice rigging job though, we all learn by trial and error sir
Just jumping in the middle here.... The type of thread definitely matters to help reduce frustration. I like 100% Egyptian Cotton ecru made by DMC and others. If you live in the states you can get it at Hobby Lobby in various sizes and colors. In my opinion, it is about the best off-the-shelf stuff you can buy without making your own.
Regarding the use of beeswax on rigging.... This is a "classic" technique that I no longer use. In the old days, it was great for reducing the amount of fuzziness found on the rigging. But if you use good quality thread that problem goes away. Unfortunately, the use of beeswax on rigging over a long period of time tends to attract dust particles from the air that will be nearly impossible to remove - 10, 15, 20 years down the road.
Hope this helps..
Regarding the use of beeswax on rigging.... This is a "classic" technique that I no longer use. In the old days, it was great for reducing the amount of fuzziness found on the rigging. But if you use good quality thread that problem goes away. Unfortunately, the use of beeswax on rigging over a long period of time tends to attract dust particles from the air that will be nearly impossible to remove - 10, 15, 20 years down the road.
Hope this helps..
Note to self, next months pay head to Hobby Lobby. Thanks Mike, I've been pondering rigging supplies.
Don't take my word on it as the end all. There are plenty of other great ideas and suggestions out there. That was just my own thoughts on the matter.
This is an article I wrote on rigging. It is basic in its purpose:
Basic Elements of Rigging
I thought I would post my viewpoint on "The Basic Elements of Rigging" and in hopes, it might bring some help to those new to this. All warships will have basically the same rigging "Pattern". The easiest as has been mentioned is to work in an orderly fashion and I would go as far as saying...
shipsofscale.com
Rigging - especially with a ship like the Connie - is one of the things that tends to frustrate everybody when they first start out in this hobby. Don't let it get to you. When I built the Connie - some 38 yrs ago - the rigging was, without a doubt, one of the most trying aspect of the build. Building the hull went quickly but, in all, it took me about 2 1/2 years to complete the model, with 2 of the years just doing the rigging - lol. Lots of head scratching and research, but it finally got done.
I once estimated for a frigate, like the Connie, there to be over 1,440 knots to tie just on the ratlines themselves!!!!
Seems about right.
Im the opposite, I enjoy rigging but am aprehensive about planking hulls. I made a right mess of a couple models even though I've read
book and articles. I think Im so afraid of screwing it up that I do. Of course all of that was a long time ago and back when I didn't really know
I could get new wood if needed.
book and articles. I think Im so afraid of screwing it up that I do. Of course all of that was a long time ago and back when I didn't really know
I could get new wood if needed.
I guess I am a weirdo too as I love the rigging. Not fond of the hull planking at all.