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USS Constitution - Model Shipway’s 5/32” = 1 ft. (1:76.8) Kit No.: MS2040
Draught Marks
Maybe it’s procrastination or trepidation of the head rails, but I decided to hold off on the head rails one more time because I thought it would be a bit easier to add the draught numbers on the bow at this time, I’ll hold off on the stern until I’ve added the hardware to support the rudder.
As I looked over most of the models of the Constitution built by others, the one thing they have in common, they did NOT add the white draught numbers which are really quite prominent for the last 100 years or so.
Maybe it’s procrastination or trepidation of the head rails, but I decided to hold off on the head rails one more time because I thought it would be a bit easier to add the draught numbers on the bow at this time, I’ll hold off on the stern until I’ve added the hardware to support the rudder.
As I looked over most of the models of the Constitution built by others, the one thing they have in common, they did NOT add the white draught numbers which are really quite prominent for the last 100 years or so.
I had a good idea why this was so, and even contacted Robert Hunt to find out why he didn’t add them. He confirmed what I assumed; they are too small to paint on the models at 3/32”. Why not make decals? Also, a simple answer, no home computer can print white because they don’t use white ink. My next thought was to use white vinyl lettering, but I couldn’t find any made at that small size. My last choice was dry transfer lettering. They do make small enough sizes although not in the exact font used in the present-day configuration: Engravers MT. However, it would be very difficult to align them properly directly on the hull with no flat smooth surfaces.
But I had an idea, why not combine decals with dry transfers? When I bought the dry transfers for the ship’s nameplate a while back, I also purchased Woodland Scenics R.R. Roman Numbers White # DT510 which came with 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, and 3/16” sized fonts. At this scale the difference in fonts from the actual one would not be noticed. I had to buy three sheets in order to have enough of the proper digits. As you can see from the image below, the font size I was using is on the very bottom of the sheet.
But I had an idea, why not combine decals with dry transfers? When I bought the dry transfers for the ship’s nameplate a while back, I also purchased Woodland Scenics R.R. Roman Numbers White # DT510 which came with 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, and 3/16” sized fonts. At this scale the difference in fonts from the actual one would not be noticed. I had to buy three sheets in order to have enough of the proper digits. As you can see from the image below, the font size I was using is on the very bottom of the sheet.
The MS Plan showing the bow and stern draught numbers were scanned to capture them. These were then imported into PowerPoint (my only drawing program) and properly sized the clipped images so they would print at the correct size., These were then copied and flipped vertically so I ended up with port and starboard of the bow and stern numbers.
Note: I used the alignment function of PowerPoint to distribute the marks evenly vertically. As it turned out they did not match up exactly with the vertical number spacing on the drawings. Although my spacing will be correct, you can’t see any real difference.
Once satisfied, line guide marks (wide upside down “T”) were overlaid onto the numbers to indicate vertical spacing and the curve. You might just make them out in the image below. It’s only the guide marks I need to print. They were to be used to guide me in the application of the dry transfers. Using the guide marks, the dry transfers were to be applied to the decal paper then sprayed the decal bonder. I had no idea what the bonder would do the dry transfers or whether the dry transfers would lift off the decal paper once the decal was dipped into water.
Note: I used the alignment function of PowerPoint to distribute the marks evenly vertically. As it turned out they did not match up exactly with the vertical number spacing on the drawings. Although my spacing will be correct, you can’t see any real difference.
Once satisfied, line guide marks (wide upside down “T”) were overlaid onto the numbers to indicate vertical spacing and the curve. You might just make them out in the image below. It’s only the guide marks I need to print. They were to be used to guide me in the application of the dry transfers. Using the guide marks, the dry transfers were to be applied to the decal paper then sprayed the decal bonder. I had no idea what the bonder would do the dry transfers or whether the dry transfers would lift off the decal paper once the decal was dipped into water.
Because I have not seen this process done by anyone before, I did an experiment first. Using lettering left over from the ship’s nameplate, letters instead of numbers, I follow the above plan. I used a strip of copper, partially painted red and black painted wood as my test subject. What I discovered is that it worked, however you had to be very careful and meticulous burnishing the transfers. Because it’s white lettering on white decal paper, it is very difficult to ensure a proper transfer as seen in the image below. I believe there is colored decal paper (light blue I think) which would have made this process a bit easier, but I didn’t have any. The guide marks were essential. Although my marks were fine red and they did seem to disappear once the decal was applied to the surface, I changed them to grey guide mark for safety.
As I feared, applying the transfers to the decal paper was a bitch. I had to use my headband magnifier just to see the digits, the guide marks almost disappeared when trying to find them looking through the transfer sheet, and of course I’m applying white numbers on white decal paper. To add a little more apprehensiveness, I could not afford too many mistakes because I had a limited number of transfers and mistakes were made.
Once the port and starboard decals were made, the bonding spray was applied and set aside to dry thoroughly. These were then dipped in water and applied to the hull. The process worked, but my alignments were not as perfect as I would have liked due to the difficulties I mentioned above. Micro-Coat Flat was then applied to remove the sheen and blend the decal into the background. From about a foot away, the numbers are almost too small to be read, so the imperfections are not too noticeable.
Once the port and starboard decals were made, the bonding spray was applied and set aside to dry thoroughly. These were then dipped in water and applied to the hull. The process worked, but my alignments were not as perfect as I would have liked due to the difficulties I mentioned above. Micro-Coat Flat was then applied to remove the sheen and blend the decal into the background. From about a foot away, the numbers are almost too small to be read, so the imperfections are not too noticeable.
Ahhh, yes! The Cathead carving! I forgot about this after you first posted it. Ok, I'm a long way away from needing it (shipping may take that long, anyways...), but ordered this today from eBay. Appreciate the reminder nudge, Jon...
Excellent work and build log! I have the Model Shipways Rattlesnake kit and want to start the build as soon as I finish my Bluenose. Since I’m a relative newbie any help would be welcome and would love to see your build log of the Rattlesnake.