USS Oliver Hazard Perry FFG 7 by Academy with Pontos 1:350

not side thrusters as would have been installed into the sides of the bow for sideways motion. look at Sheet 12 Hold as they are apu 1 & 2 for use if the main prop stops working for whatever reason.
 
Davidp said:
not side thrusters as would have been installed into the sides of the bow for sideways motion. look at Sheet 12 Hold as they are apu 1 & 2 for use if the main prop stops working for whatever reason.
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This device is designed to maneuver the ship at low speeds in ports when the main propeller cannot provide maneuverability at low speeds. During the attack on USS Stark (FFG-31), when the stationary frigate was hit by two anti-ship missiles, this device could help turn the ship in place so that the missiles were in the Vulcan Phalanx sector of fire. But that didn't happen...
 
Davidp said:
but are still not side thrusters.
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Of course. Because this device in its working position has the ability to rotate around a vertical axis. Somewhat similar to Azipod. Similar devices were sometimes installed on Soviet ships. Here is a photo of the stern of a small project 1124 anti-submarine shipscale_2400.jpeg
 
i don't think the apu's can rotate as distance between the 2 is not great enough that they don't interfere with each other. i think they can only go forward & reverse as they are emergency propulsion units.
 
Nice to have. Very cool.

The PE work is a lot of work! But looks fantastic. I hope the epoxy and JB Weld is working. A few years ago I half tried to build a "PE Welder." It's sort of a "flash" soldering iron: high juice for super quick solder melting. You can buy them for the cost of a Lamborghini, so I thought I'd make one. But the parts add up to the cost of just buying one...

I don't really do very much PE work, but I thought it would be handy and cool.


Keep us updated with your progress.
 
A "PE Welder" hum!! On another project I'm making small fittings using brass rod and copper wire bonding the parts with silver solder. A problem was some of the parts are around wooden blocks and too much heat. I invested in a resistance soldering system which did not burn the wooden blocks and might try this on pe parts. I don't think this would work on the plastic model but many of the pe parts have to be assembled i.e. the radar towers. Something to try.
 
Will @ Trilogy said:
A "PE Welder" hum!! On another project I'm making small fittings using brass rod and copper wire bonding the parts with silver solder. A problem was some of the parts are around wooden blocks and too much heat. I invested in a resistance soldering system which did not burn the wooden blocks and might try this on pe parts. I don't think this would work on the plastic model but many of the pe parts have to be assembled i.e. the radar towers. Something to try.
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OK, it's a resistance soldering system. Uses a foot pedal. Sort of like spot welding. Seemed cool (or really hot!). If I ever do a heap of PE, I'll look at investing in one. My super-cheap scheme to build had way too many holes! It might be bad for plastic, but anything that could be constructed separate might be good.
 
don't you mean the 1st sheet as that is the 2nd sheet as stated on bottom right corner "2 of 2"? i do not have the 1st sheet. what markings are you looking for?
 
Davidp said:
don't you mean the 1st sheet as that is the 2nd sheet as stated on bottom right corner "2 of 2"? i do not have the 1st sheet. what markings are you looking for?
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Indeed, I meant the first sheet. On this sheet of the drawing there should be a specification, namely the dimensions and purpose of all external holes, which are indicated on the drawing only by numbers.
 
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