We're not having fun if we're not spending money .Thanks @dockattner. I have pulled the trigger on my purchase. We'll see how it goes I guess.
We're not having fun if we're not spending money .Thanks @dockattner. I have pulled the trigger on my purchase. We'll see how it goes I guess.
exactly.We're not having fun if we're not spending money .
Dear PaulA small update today that represents hours and hours and hours of work.
I've mentioned several times that I have been making rope while working on other tasks. In studying other build logs I've noticed that some builders choose to make rope on an as-needed basis (well, assuming they didn't just use the kit-supplied rope or purchase rope on the aftermarket). I decided to pre-make rope in various sizes ahead of time so I would be locked and loaded when the need arose.
There is probably not a right or wrong way to approach this, though my solution did require a great deal of research on the front end to determine what sizes of rope would be needed for my build (thus far I have largely limited myself to the standing rigging). There are several tables and spreadsheets available to assist the builder though they sometimes don't agree (though I suspect much of that is user error on my part). In addition, I needed to estimate the lengths I would need of each size. Of course there is no way I got all this right...
Here is what I have done so far:
View attachment 274378
I still need two more sizes and will also need more of several of the sizes that I have started (the 0.36 for example). A man can only take so much rope-making at a time...
Here are some closer looks at several of the sizes:
View attachment 274374
View attachment 274375
View attachment 274376
View attachment 274377
As you can see I have selected polyester source threads. For anyone interested, most of these began as Gutermann Skala 240 or Guterman E121 (though some are from Gutermann Mara 120, 70, or 30).
Before you panic, while almost everything you see is intended for standing rigging, nothing has been tinted yet. I will be tinting on an as-needed basis because many of these sizes will show up in the running rigging as well (untinted). There is also material for ratlines in what has been produced and that will remain hemp colored for this build.
You may have also noticed that everything you see here is right handed (hawser laid). I am well aware that some builders think all the standing rigging should be left handed - others think it should be right handed. Others believe only the largest ropes from the standing rig should be left handed with the smaller ropes being right handed. I have even read that port and starboard sides should use different handed-ness on the shrouds. Unless something changes in my thinking everything will be right handed on this model (well, the anchor rope will be cable laid). Don't hate me.
Poly vs cotton vs silk vs... is open to debate and the preferences of the individual builder. I chose poly because it produces cleaner (less fuzzy) rope - perhaps too clean for some of you though if you have been following this build for long you know I wasn't going to be OK with fuzzy rope.
Poly has one major reported downside that I will need to sort out - it is marginally stretchy - the thicker ropes more so than the thinner ones (that's not a scientific conclusion - just my personal stretch test...). The other thing poly does is unravel when it is cut. Care must be taken to 'burn' the ends or use CA or some other binder before cutting the ropes.
And when I say it unravels I mean it unravels with enthusiasm - almost violently. I intend to use CA but I was still worried that I would lose control of some of the ends. My solution (not my invention) was to bake all the ropes in the oven (350 degrees Fahrenheit for 5 minutes or so). This helps a lot.
In the image below the rope on the right is uncooked. All I did is cut it with an XActo and it fell apart in the blink of an eye. The rope on the left was baked and cut with the same knife.
View attachment 274373
I learned (the painful lesson) that you can't just throw loose rope into the oven and bake it because the rope will take the 'pattern' of however it is sitting in the oven. My remedy was to wrap the rope around a soup can and then bake it.
View attachment 274372
I'm still a ways off from doing any rigging - but it is now on the visible horizon so rope-making will continue in the weeks ahead.
Thank you for checking in on my build. The simple fact that you visit now and again is more encouraging than I can put words to.
Oh, and thank you to @Daniel20 and @mati.n who offered helpful advice (along with several others). It takes a village...
If that's really the case, then I'm in a state of total euphoria.We're not having fun if we're not spending money .
No way Paul just too good !! it is so strange you posted this now as last night I started painting my decorations. Seeing how awesome you got yours .....actually perfect....is a credit to your talent. Man you are building an outstanding ship Paul. “Acceptable” you set high standards Paul.Thanks, everyone, for your kind and encouraging comments and all the likes. As you know model ship building can be a lonely isolating business so your interest in my Vasa build is very encouraging.
Veterans of this build log will recall that I have chosen to paint the decorative bits. I confess that I did not know what I was getting myself into when I painted those first pieces and I would encourage future builders to carefully consider the time commitment (including an honest assessment of your personal interest in painting mini-miniatures). I believe everyone on this site could do a good job - it's just a question of what you want to be spending your time on. For me, while it does take oodles and oodles of time, the painting is enjoyable.
Because of the scope of the painting requirement I have been painting decorations in bunches. Sometimes a session lasts a few days and sometimes it lasts a few weeks. But once I have everything set up to paint I want to stick with it for more than a few hours and a few pieces.
All this to say the ship has been moved off my work table and it has been replaced by a wet palate and bottles of acrylic paints...
This post will feature the frieze that appears in the beakhead. You can see the resurrected version 'behind' the gammoning on the following image.
View attachment 275273
On the real ship this frieze is in dimensional relief but the kit simply provides a photoetched piece of flat brass (I briefly considered trying to carve something but the frieze is so fragile - and my carving skills so limited - that early efforts were quickly abandoned).
Obviously there are two sides to this piece (similar but not identical). Here is what I ended up with:
View attachment 275274
View attachment 275275
And here it is installed on my model:
View attachment 275276
It actually looks acceptable when not under the scrutiny of macro imaging .
Thanks for stopping by.
Acceptable .....? This is beautifull and on a place where you always see it. Be proud, Paul.Thanks, everyone, for your kind and encouraging comments and all the likes. As you know model ship building can be a lonely isolating business so your interest in my Vasa build is very encouraging.
Veterans of this build log will recall that I have chosen to paint the decorative bits. I confess that I did not know what I was getting myself into when I painted those first pieces and I would encourage future builders to carefully consider the time commitment (including an honest assessment of your personal interest in painting mini-miniatures). I believe everyone on this site could do a good job - it's just a question of what you want to be spending your time on. For me, while it does take oodles and oodles of time, the painting is enjoyable.
Because of the scope of the painting requirement I have been painting decorations in bunches. Sometimes a session lasts a few days and sometimes it lasts a few weeks. But once I have everything set up to paint I want to stick with it for more than a few hours and a few pieces.
All this to say the ship has been moved off my work table and it has been replaced by a wet palate and bottles of acrylic paints...
This post will feature the frieze that appears in the beakhead. You can see the resurrected version 'behind' the gammoning on the following image.
View attachment 275273
On the real ship this frieze is in dimensional relief but the kit simply provides a photoetched piece of flat brass (I briefly considered trying to carve something but the frieze is so fragile - and my carving skills so limited - that early efforts were quickly abandoned).
Obviously there are two sides to this piece (similar but not identical). Here is what I ended up with:
View attachment 275274
View attachment 275275
And here it is installed on my model:
View attachment 275276
It actually looks acceptable when not under the scrutiny of macro imaging .
Thanks for stopping by.
Out of this world Paul!!! Your talents at painting are wonderfully showcased on this ship. The combination of your woodwork and painting have made your ship a true family heirloom.Thanks, everyone, for your kind and encouraging comments and all the likes. As you know model ship building can be a lonely isolating business so your interest in my Vasa build is very encouraging.
Veterans of this build log will recall that I have chosen to paint the decorative bits. I confess that I did not know what I was getting myself into when I painted those first pieces and I would encourage future builders to carefully consider the time commitment (including an honest assessment of your personal interest in painting mini-miniatures). I believe everyone on this site could do a good job - it's just a question of what you want to be spending your time on. For me, while it does take oodles and oodles of time, the painting is enjoyable.
Because of the scope of the painting requirement I have been painting decorations in bunches. Sometimes a session lasts a few days and sometimes it lasts a few weeks. But once I have everything set up to paint I want to stick with it for more than a few hours and a few pieces.
All this to say the ship has been moved off my work table and it has been replaced by a wet palate and bottles of acrylic paints...
This post will feature the frieze that appears in the beakhead. You can see the resurrected version 'behind' the gammoning on the following image.
View attachment 275273
On the real ship this frieze is in dimensional relief but the kit simply provides a photoetched piece of flat brass (I briefly considered trying to carve something but the frieze is so fragile - and my carving skills so limited - that early efforts were quickly abandoned).
Obviously there are two sides to this piece (similar but not identical). Here is what I ended up with:
View attachment 275274
View attachment 275275
And here it is installed on my model:
View attachment 275276
It actually looks acceptable when not under the scrutiny of macro imaging .
Thanks for stopping by.
Hi PaulThanks, everyone, for your kind and encouraging comments and all the likes. As you know model ship building can be a lonely isolating business so your interest in my Vasa build is very encouraging.
Veterans of this build log will recall that I have chosen to paint the decorative bits. I confess that I did not know what I was getting myself into when I painted those first pieces and I would encourage future builders to carefully consider the time commitment (including an honest assessment of your personal interest in painting mini-miniatures). I believe everyone on this site could do a good job - it's just a question of what you want to be spending your time on. For me, while it does take oodles and oodles of time, the painting is enjoyable.
Because of the scope of the painting requirement I have been painting decorations in bunches. Sometimes a session lasts a few days and sometimes it lasts a few weeks. But once I have everything set up to paint I want to stick with it for more than a few hours and a few pieces.
All this to say the ship has been moved off my work table and it has been replaced by a wet palate and bottles of acrylic paints...
This post will feature the frieze that appears in the beakhead. You can see the resurrected version 'behind' the gammoning on the following image.
View attachment 275273
On the real ship this frieze is in dimensional relief but the kit simply provides a photoetched piece of flat brass (I briefly considered trying to carve something but the frieze is so fragile - and my carving skills so limited - that early efforts were quickly abandoned).
Obviously there are two sides to this piece (similar but not identical). Here is what I ended up with:
View attachment 275274
View attachment 275275
And here it is installed on my model:
View attachment 275276
It actually looks acceptable when not under the scrutiny of macro imaging .
Thanks for stopping by.
All of your rope looks superb! This post is a micro-tech session on the do's and don'ts. I will be returning faster than an uncooked rope can un-ravel!A small update today that represents hours and hours and hours of work.
I've mentioned several times that I have been making rope while working on other tasks. In studying other build logs I've noticed that some builders choose to make rope on an as-needed basis (well, assuming they didn't just use the kit-supplied rope or purchase rope on the aftermarket). I decided to pre-make rope in various sizes ahead of time so I would be locked and loaded when the need arose.
There is probably not a right or wrong way to approach this, though my solution did require a great deal of research on the front end to determine what sizes of rope would be needed for my build (thus far I have largely limited myself to the standing rigging). There are several tables and spreadsheets available to assist the builder though they sometimes don't agree (though I suspect much of that is user error on my part). In addition, I needed to estimate the lengths I would need of each size. Of course there is no way I got all this right...
Here is what I have done so far:
View attachment 274378
I still need two more sizes and will also need more of several of the sizes that I have started (the 0.36 for example). A man can only take so much rope-making at a time...
Here are some closer looks at several of the sizes:
View attachment 274374
View attachment 274375
View attachment 274376
View attachment 274377
As you can see I have selected polyester source threads. For anyone interested, most of these began as Gutermann Skala 240 or Guterman E121 (though some are from Gutermann Mara 120, 70, or 30).
Before you panic, while almost everything you see is intended for standing rigging, nothing has been tinted yet. I will be tinting on an as-needed basis because many of these sizes will show up in the running rigging as well (untinted). There is also material for ratlines in what has been produced and that will remain hemp colored for this build.
You may have also noticed that everything you see here is right handed (hawser laid). I am well aware that some builders think all the standing rigging should be left handed - others think it should be right handed. Others believe only the largest ropes from the standing rig should be left handed with the smaller ropes being right handed. I have even read that port and starboard sides should use different handed-ness on the shrouds. Unless something changes in my thinking everything will be right handed on this model (well, the anchor rope will be cable laid). Don't hate me.
Poly vs cotton vs silk vs... is open to debate and the preferences of the individual builder. I chose poly because it produces cleaner (less fuzzy) rope - perhaps too clean for some of you though if you have been following this build for long you know I wasn't going to be OK with fuzzy rope.
Poly has one major reported downside that I will need to sort out - it is marginally stretchy - the thicker ropes more so than the thinner ones (that's not a scientific conclusion - just my personal stretch test...). The other thing poly does is unravel when it is cut. Care must be taken to 'burn' the ends or use CA or some other binder before cutting the ropes.
And when I say it unravels I mean it unravels with enthusiasm - almost violently. I intend to use CA but I was still worried that I would lose control of some of the ends. My solution (not my invention) was to bake all the ropes in the oven (350 degrees Fahrenheit for 5 minutes or so). This helps a lot.
In the image below the rope on the right is uncooked. All I did is cut it with an XActo and it fell apart in the blink of an eye. The rope on the left was baked and cut with the same knife.
View attachment 274373
I learned (the painful lesson) that you can't just throw loose rope into the oven and bake it because the rope will take the 'pattern' of however it is sitting in the oven. My remedy was to wrap the rope around a soup can and then bake it.
View attachment 274372
I'm still a ways off from doing any rigging - but it is now on the visible horizon so rope-making will continue in the weeks ahead.
Thank you for checking in on my build. The simple fact that you visit now and again is more encouraging than I can put words to.
Oh, and thank you to @Daniel20 and @mati.n who offered helpful advice (along with several others). It takes a village...
DAAAMMMNNN Paul! (meant as an expression of wonder and admiration)Hello Friends,
Recently I have been trying to develop a workaround for installing the deadeyes at the tops. Ordinarily the chain plate would pass through the outer rim (the darker ring in the image below):
View attachment 273560
Unfortunately, when I tried to drill or cut through the plywood rim (I used a part from the kit), it just crumbles. At first I thought it was because the part was so narrow (on the upper tops the rim is barely 2.0 mm wide). But on the lower tops the rim is almost 3 mm wide and it just crumbles too.
I considered several options and the leading contender in my mind was to drill through the planked portion (the base) and install the deadeyes there. But before I did that, I attempted a trial where I bent a piece of brass strip around the rim. The trial went well so I put that into production. Here is a photo tour of my approach.
Brass strips cut to length:
View attachment 273561
The end was rounded with a file and then smashed between two plates of steel to make a ring:
View attachment 273562
I then drilled through that ring (thanks @Jimsky - the Busch bits worked perfectly - and in my vise drill no less):
View attachment 273563
I then bent the brass strip into a shape that wrapped around the rim of the top:
View attachment 273564
These are 4 mm deadeyes:
View attachment 273567
And these are 3 mm deadeyes:
View attachment 273568
Comparing the 3mm and 4 mm ones I just made with the 5mm ones already installed at the channels (the deadeyes get smaller the higher they are on the ship):
View attachment 273569
The first ones I installed (I did get better at this over time...):
View attachment 273570
I am not completely satisfied with these results but the parts seem secure enough so I think I will run with it. As you know the macro images make everything look worse than it does at normal size but that's part of the game. I'm confident there is a better solution but this one is mine (for better or for worse).
Sadly, I counted wrong and I am 6x of the 3mm size short so I need to go back and make some more (super frustrating).
Thanks for stopping by to see what I have been up to. I am enjoying following your builds as well!
This is so good and vivid in the manner of stained glass, which is what all of your efforts at shading remind me of. Love it!Thanks, everyone, for your kind and encouraging comments and all the likes. As you know model ship building can be a lonely isolating business so your interest in my Vasa build is very encouraging.
Veterans of this build log will recall that I have chosen to paint the decorative bits. I confess that I did not know what I was getting myself into when I painted those first pieces and I would encourage future builders to carefully consider the time commitment (including an honest assessment of your personal interest in painting mini-miniatures). I believe everyone on this site could do a good job - it's just a question of what you want to be spending your time on. For me, while it does take oodles and oodles of time, the painting is enjoyable.
Because of the scope of the painting requirement I have been painting decorations in bunches. Sometimes a session lasts a few days and sometimes it lasts a few weeks. But once I have everything set up to paint I want to stick with it for more than a few hours and a few pieces.
All this to say the ship has been moved off my work table and it has been replaced by a wet palate and bottles of acrylic paints...
This post will feature the frieze that appears in the beakhead. You can see the resurrected version 'behind' the gammoning on the following image.
View attachment 275273
On the real ship this frieze is in dimensional relief but the kit simply provides a photoetched piece of flat brass (I briefly considered trying to carve something but the frieze is so fragile - and my carving skills so limited - that early efforts were quickly abandoned).
Obviously there are two sides to this piece (similar but not identical). Here is what I ended up with:
View attachment 275274
View attachment 275275
And here it is installed on my model:
View attachment 275276
It actually looks acceptable when not under the scrutiny of macro imaging .
Thanks for stopping by.
In my hobby job when someone teaches something no one ever came up with before it is received with skepticism. I'm grateful the modelling community is more accepting. I did it wrong - but I got it done (which I have recorded as a win with an asterisk).DAAAMMMNNN Paul! (meant as an expression of wonder and admiration)
I have never seen deadeye strops on tops done like this. IMPRESSIVO!
I love this post, Marc! The decorations on the Vasa were not fine art. They were roughly carved and roughly painted (most likely by the men who did the carving rather than by professional painters). I have made no effort to paint these in a high style (which I might even be able to pull off at a larger scale but was unthinkable at 1:65). Here is an art panel from the museum to give a sense of what was done at 1:1...This is so good and vivid in the manner of stained glass, which is what all of your efforts at shading remind me of. Love it!
EFF'N-A-RIGHT, you did!In my hobby job when someone teaches something no one ever came up with before it is received with skepticism. I'm grateful the modelling community is more accepting. I did it wrong - but I got it done (which I have recorded as a win with an asterisk).
You raise an interesting avenue of discussion. It is generally opined that Vasa's sculptures were made by a congregation of local artisans and that they vary in their sophistication. My personal point of view is that ships like Vasa, in the late 1620s, were propelling the art of ship-carving and ornamentation forward. Yes, there is the English example of the Prince Royal of 1610 (?), but English ship carving at this early stage was entirely different in subject matter. Consistent with the "cutting edge" quality of the carving on Vasa, I think that the paint work would also have been of a similarly high quality - even if executed by the carvers, themselves. The main thrust of my argument, here, is that the quality of the carvings, throughout, is very high; I don't think that the quality of the painting would have detracted from it. As a matter of fact, I believe that the painting on the actual ship was deliberately stylized to be viewed from a distance. The Batavia replica expresses what I am saying perfectly. As a side-note, I still am saddened that the Werf's Provincien project will never come to completion. There was the artistic and technical talent, in place, to do such a subject as De Zeven Provincien, justice.I love this post, Marc! The decorations on the Vasa were not fine art. They were roughly carved and roughly painted (most likely by the men who did the carving rather than by professional painters). I have made no effort to paint these in a high style (which I might even be able to pull off at a larger scale but was unthinkable at 1:65). Here is an art panel from the museum to give a sense of what was done at 1:1...
View attachment 276286
These are essentially in the baroque style (they have a stark realism and 'liveliness' created by bold colors and wide brushstrokes) quite different from Rennaissance art.
The fact that you identified that (as did Heinrich) is most gratifying.