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Warped Mast Dowels

  • Thread starter Thread starter RegW
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Quality variation can be huge. The 2” construction lumber is made from small new growth. The 1in select grade in wider widths is much better stuff. American lumberyards that I am familiar with let you sort through their stock to find a good piece.

Roger
 
I've just reached the masting phase of my build and sadly discovered that the lower mast dowels for the Foremast, Main Mast and Mizzen are warped significantly. They all appeared fine as packaged in the kit, but displayed this problem after removing the elastic bands that held them together. I'm looking for suggestions for straightening these. I've used the following technique on sample pieces of maple (which these masts are made from).

A. Soak the dowels in water for 24 hrs.
B. Remove the dowels from water and fasten to straight/flat surface with "correcting shims"
C. Blow dry with heat gun set to 300ºF till dry (about 2 minutes)
D. Apply a penetrating oil (non-tinted) and reset the clamps and shims
E. Let sit overnight then remove.

This corrected the warp and the penetrating oil should stabilize the dowel fibers - but I'm uncertain if the warp will return after these dowel are installed on the ship.

Looking for suggestions please :)

RegView attachment 506484
Years ago, when I was making arrows, I became very frustrated with this issue. My solution was to find a birch on private land that was growing straight, negotiate with the owner, and take the tree down. I managed to cut out several 4' sections, debarked, dressed the ends, and let them dry. After drying in my attic for several summers, I took one out and began ripping it down. I managed to get a whole pile of very nice straight squares that I used for everything but arrows. The process took so much time, coupled with space and procrastination and losing interest in archery, that I would not recommend it. However, the very straight-grained lumber I harvested was awesome. The same thing can be done with lumber in commercial yards. The trick is to find a straight section of wood hiding in a large enough piece of, say, northern spruce, that you can cut it out. When I was still working, I was always on the lookout for dunnage lumber with clear sections that could be cut out to produce modeling wood. Making stuff from scratch is so very satisfying to me, and the further back I can go in the process, the more fun it is for me.
 
For those of us in southern California, the CL415, nicknamed the Super Scooper, has been a great gift from Canada. For the other history nerds in the group, credit in the City of Los Angeles for bringing the Super Scoopers to Van Nuys airport goes to Councilmember Bob Ronka, who served long ago (1977-1981).
In the January wild fires, one of the Super Scoopers was knocked out of service for a while at a critical time after colliding with a drone that some clueless person put in the air when the CL415s were doing their work. Repaired, the CL415 went back to work. Any of our drone-building modelers should be aware of this error and keep the things on the ground during critical times when important aircraft are working.
 
I spend a lot of time doing things exactly like that! As this is my first ship build I'm wondering if I'm slower than a turtle and curious ... How long does an experienced builder take to complete a reasonably detailed ship? One year? Two years? Enquiring mind wants to know. I've been working on mine for over 1 year and I'm just now getting to the masting stage.
That's kind of like asking how big is a circle. Time to complete a model has so many factors. Complexity of the model. The time the builder has to work on it on a daily basis. The frustration of having something not go as planned, and deciding to take a break to retain your sanity and enjoyment of the hobby (ask me why I think of this... lol). With a small build, I might do it in six months. A larger one could take over a year... and a really complex one can take several years. The Corel HMS Victory that I'm currently working on, was a project I began well over two decades ago... put a year into it, and lost interest and shelved it for two decades. Then a bit over a year ago, I dug it out and started working on it again. I'm hoping to have it complete in another couple of years. Personally, I only work on the ship models during the winter months, as summer in Calgary is too brief and I try to wring as much enjoyment into our short affair with sunshine by getting out and enjoying it. My shipbuilding is relegated to the other six months of cold and darkness. :)

In short, it takes as much time as it takes. Never feel rushed. If you need to take a break... take a break. If you run into a snag, give yourself time to sit back and develop your solution. Kind of like the question about warped mast material. The point I'm trying to make is to let the experience be an enjoyable one. When it becomes onerous or frustrating, that's the time to step back for a bit. There's always lots of helpful folks here who can suggest ideas about how to tackle something we're unsure of or never faced before. Even today, as I read this thread, I was intrigued by the idea of a dowel cutting tool. Normally, if I need replacement dowels, I visit a local (and quite huge) hobby shop that carries a lot of wood and metal supplies for hobby crafts. Sometimes I source them from hardware stores like Home Depot, Lowes, etc. If I need a different colour, I can stain them, and then I only have to worry about the wood grain matching.

Best regards from YYC...
 
Mind you, my american friends didn't seem to mind when I spent a couple of weeks in California with our CL-415's dumping tons of water on them, and their fires. ;)

For what it's worth, to twist an old saying, "The expressions of the management do not necessarily reflect the attitudes of the customers!"

Please stay tuned while we are experiencing technical difficulties. We hope to restore normal service shortly.

1742077850911.png
 
I ordered new mast/dowels, but Model Expo only has inch diameters and I need 12x500mm plus a 10x500mm length of dowels. I know that I could use my lathe to achieve that fix, but I'm too lazy to do that which can be avoided. So I ordered from Cornwall Model Boats Ltd. - and possibly avoided the "new tariffs" that our countries (Canada and USA) are inventing. Sheesh.
Mind you, my american friends didn't seem to mind when I spent a couple of weeks in California with our CL-415's dumping tons of water on them, and their fires. ;)
I was going to recommend Cornwall Model Boats as they have quality metric dowels. Best of luck, sir.
 
Why even take a chance that the dowels would warp again sometime in future. Just buy or make new ones.
 
here in the states, there was a building supply store chain. Builders Square,


Per Admin, this post has been edited.

lol that place was crooked,, their BEST sheets of plywood and best boards, were more crooked then a stereotypical sea lawyer, or quasimodos poor back.

Not sure why the first post i made was edited, perhaps by a person with a fear of shapely women?
 
There is no fear of women here, but there are women and families (with kids) who share this medium. Since I am the founder of SoS, it is wise to keep that in mind.
 
here in the states, there was a building supply store chain. Builders Square,


Per Admin, this post has been edited.

lol that place was crooked,, their BEST sheets of plywood and best boards, were more crooked then a stereotypical sea lawyer, or quasimodos poor back.

Not sure why the first post i made was edited, perhaps by a person with a fear of shapely women?
 
I spend a lot of time doing things exactly like that! As this is my first ship build I'm wondering if I'm slower than a turtle and curious ... How long does an experienced builder take to complete a reasonably detailed ship? One year? Two years? Enquiring mind wants to know. I've been working on mine for over 1 year and I'm just now getting to the masting stage.
Reg! Length of build time is a calculus problem: time available + skill - work/distractions x level of complexity of the build x level of detail. I don't think you mentioned the ship you're building, but MSW makes some wonderful and wonderfully complicated kits. I've been working on one of their beginner to intermediate kits, Harriet Lane, since December 3, 2024. I hope to have her under glass within the next month. I was hoping to have her done before last Christmas. Life. In any event, its a hobby and sometimes one has to redo and redo and redo to get it right - never mind making your own parts;). Good luck turning the new masts!

Blessings.
Chuck
 
The model that I am building was started in 1992! Put aside and picked up several times. It has been my sole project since 2020. Lots of small fittings to make from machined and soldered brass. When or if will I finish it? I have no idea.

Roger
 
If Model Expo does not replace this , I think they will thought, I agree buy a new one,just in case it does warp again. 6 months after you finish. But that's just me lol.
Bobby K
I believe Ramin is a good timber for doweling but others might think othewise, it's quite light in weight but it easy to machine and sand.
 
DOWEL making is very interesting but we are not making curtain rods, rather ship's masts and these are tapered. So no matter what dowel you produce it finally has to be tapered. Thus I find it much easier starting with a square rod and shaping it with a manual plain and finishing it with sanding. I have over 20 years of ship modellig uner my belt and this has never failed. KEEP IT SIMPLE NO NEED FOR HIGH FALLUTIN TOOLS
 
I ordered new mast/dowels, but Model Expo only has inch diameters and I need 12x500mm plus a 10x500mm length of dowels. I know that I could use my lathe to achieve that fix, but I'm too lazy to do that which can be avoided. So I ordered from Cornwall Model Boats Ltd. - and possibly avoided the "new tariffs" that our countries (Canada and USA) are inventing. Sheesh.

Mind you, my american friends didn't seem to mind when I spent a couple of weeks in California with our CL-415's dumping tons of water on them, and their fires. ;)
Your American friends still love you, there is only one to blame.
 
I believe Ramin is a good timber for doweling but others might think othewise, it's quite light in weight but it easy to machine and sand.
when you go to Walmart and go to buy a dowel, and its crooked like a lawyer... its normally Ramin..

RAMEN is good with the right ingredients.. but RAMIN is not.
 
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