What software for 3D printing

Thank you. I may have to buy a replacement adapter as I have no idea where one might be after two moves. I would be surprised if Best Buy doesn't carry these. What software do you use?


 
Hi all,
I started by using Fusion 360, also for CNC but switched to Onshape a while ago. It is free and runs in your browser, no installation required. Only downside is that the files are public within the Onshape cloud.
Onshape is a parametric CAD tool and easy to use.

For slicing I use Ultimaker Cura for my small Snapmaker1 printer/CNC carver and Bambu Studio for my new Bambulab A1 printer.

The Bambulab printer is light-years ahead in quality and comfort of use. Jobs can be sent from the PC (or tablet or Smartphone) through the Bambu cloud to the printer which is connected to the WLAN. You can monitor everything on your mobile device.

Quite happy with the setup.
 
Ditto on Bambu Labs FDM printers. IMO they are the most capable (FDM) printers on the market with innovative features lacking in "commercial" printers costing several times more.

I cut my teeth on very expensive Raise3D FDM printers. Being the only engineer willing to maintain the five we used at work, I gained a lot of experience keeping them running.

Their repair procedures were written in Chinglish with pictures that didn't match the text. I re-wrote all of them for in-house use and submitted the final product to the US distributor, who was delighted. He offered me a substantial discount if I ordered one for home use, since I was in the market for one at the time. Honestly, I would be hard-pressed to have one for free after three years of maintaining them. I ended up installing mods to keep them running reliably, (some large prints took a week) but having to modify a new, $5000 printer to keep it performing reliably passes the Stupid Test. User's complaints on their forums bear this out.

Raise3D has a gorgeous interface, with a large screen that matches the slicer's display. Nobody beats that yet, but reliability is more important than the interface.

In the end, I took up resin printing and wowed everyone at work with the finely-detailed results I achieved. Any failed prints, (and there have been very few after hundreds of prints) were my fault, and easy to diagnose. To this day, I keep a print log to track hours used and learn from previous prints.

Now that I've retired, designing and 3D printing museum-quality submarines is my primary task to stay mentally-challenged and continue working with my hands. I am continually amazed as I learn new ways to use my software app of choice I was professionally trained on 18 years ago. The learning never ends!

If I needed an FDM printer, Bambu Labs would be my first choice.
 
Ditto on Bambu Labs FDM printers. IMO they are the most capable (FDM) printers on the market with innovative features lacking in "commercial" printers costing several times more.

I cut my teeth on very expensive Raise3D FDM printers. Being the only engineer willing to maintain the five we used at work, I gained a lot of experience keeping them running.

Their repair procedures were written in Chinglish with pictures that didn't match the text. I re-wrote all of them for in-house use and submitted the final product to the US distributor, who was delighted. He offered me a substantial discount if I ordered one for home use, since I was in the market for one at the time. Honestly, I would be hard-pressed to have one for free after three years of maintaining them. I ended up installing mods to keep them running reliably, (some large prints took a week) but having to modify a new, $5000 printer to keep it performing reliably passes the Stupid Test. User's complaints on their forums bear this out.

Raise3D has a gorgeous interface, with a large screen that matches the slicer's display. Nobody beats that yet, but reliability is more important than the interface.

In the end, I took up resin printing and wowed everyone at work with the finely-detailed results I achieved. Any failed prints, (and there have been very few after hundreds of prints) were my fault, and easy to diagnose. To this day, I keep a print log to track hours used and learn from previous prints.

Now that I've retired, designing and 3D printing museum-quality submarines is my primary task to stay mentally-challenged and continue working with my hands. I am continually amazed as I learn new ways to use my software app of choice I was professionally trained on 18 years ago. The learning never ends!

If I needed an FDM printer, Bambu Labs would be my first choice.
I have a Crealty 3DM Slicer but have been very frustrated in trying to find "intro" software that is fairly flexible and will help me learn how to actually print something. Any suggestions? I have tried 2 - 3 programs including one on-line one with basically no success. I would greatly appreciate some advice.
 
I have a Crealty 3DM Slicer but have been very frustrated in trying to find "intro" software that is fairly flexible and will help me learn how to actually print something. Any suggestions? I have tried 2 - 3 programs including one on-line one with basically no success. I would greatly appreciate some advice.
Are you looking for 3D modelling/ CAD software or what do you mean by 'intro' software?
Which ones did you try?
 
Fusion3D, Sketchup, and TinkerCAD
Perhaps give Onshape a go, it runs in your browser.
Its a feature based CAD tool, similar to Fusion.
So basically create sketches, revolve or extrude, round chamfer, all parameter driven.
But honestly, none of these are self explanatory.
But there are tons of YouTube videos and others sources online.

 
Let's go backwards for a moment, so I understand what you want to do.

There are two types of software associated with 3D printing, regardless of the printer type, (filament - like your Creality, or resin):

1) Design software, (aka CAD or object modeling software) to create objects to be printed. This requires considerable time and effort to master whatever program is used and divides the printing community into two distinct camps:

Those who design their own custom objects, and the rest who print objects designed by others.

2) Slicer software converts predesigned objects into G-code transparently for the user. G-code is the language the printer uses to command itself how to print the object. In a similar manner, machinists use G-code to operate programmable 5-axis mills and lathes.


If you want to print a pre-made object yourself, you can download thousands of free objects from file-sharing sites like Thingverse. The most popular format for downloaded objects is called STL format.

Example: Here's a naval cannon available on Thingverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:338952

You can download the file, decompress it, (it will be unpacked as multiple STLs for each part of the cannon) and open each STL using a slicer (nearly every 3D printer comes with slicer software that needs to be configured for your particular make and model of printer, and filament type to be used to set the printing temperature.)

Once you load the STL into your slicer, it will tell you the physical dimensions of the object being printed. It the size is too large or small, you can easily scale the final size you want using the slicer. Slicing software is generally very simple to use, and you can play around with the settings with a pre-made object without damaging anything for practice. Once the slicer is configured, (usually automatically once the make/model of printer is entered) it will indicate if the object(s) won't fit on the build plate.

Raise3D has a (free) slicer and it's excellent as a training aid -even if for those who are interested in 3D printing but don't own a 3D printer. I didn't know much about 3D printing but since it was the slicer used at work, (and compatible with many other non-Raise3D filament printer brands) I downloaded it at home, then loaded a simple Thingverse file and began my 3D printing/slicer education.

I was shocked how easy it was to pick up and was able to perform slicing basics with an hour or two of experimentation. The next day at work, I printed my first 3D object.

For anyone following along, here's a link to download the Raise3D slicer (IdeaMaker): https://www.raise3d.com/download/

YouTube has plenty of excellent Raise3D-produced videos to help learn it quickly.

There are many other slicers available, (both free and paid with more features) but they all do the same thing.

Modeling Software runs in two general types:

1) Professional Level: (Almost all paid subscriptions) like SolidWorks, Catia, and ProE, just to name a few. These cost thousands of dollars a year.

One popular exception is Fusion 360, (a form of SolidWorks Lite). It offers high-end parametric capabilities, -meaning if you design something and want to change it later, the change ripples through the model and automatically updates anything the change affects. This saves mucho time.

Example: You model a vehicle and the door handle is too thin. Changing the door handle may affect the pocket in the door it's attached to, so the depth of the pocket needs to change as well. Parametric modeling updates the model without the designer having to dig through it looking for problems caused by the revised door handle. It's super-powerful and saves valuable time, but still has a steep learning curve.

Fusion 360 has a free version and a paid subscription that offers more capabilities. After all, they want people to upgrade and make some money.

2) Hobbyist Level: Blender, TinkerCAD, and SketchUp, are good examples. There are many others. Nearly all are free, but they're likely easier to master than Fusion 360, though less capable in the options they offer in many cases.

What's the best design software? The one you know how to use that produces the outcome you want.

What's the easiest way to learn how to use any software? Classroom or formal training with instant feedback from a teacher. Many community colleges and local community centers offer CAD training since a lot of people want to learn how to create their custom objects. Even better, find someone local and invest in one-on-one tutoring. You will get instant feedback that eliminates the frustration you will face when a YouTube video doesn't work.

When I decided to learn 3D modeling many orbits ago, I started out with online videos, and grew frustrated because something wasn't explained in a way I comprehended or the author performed a step that wasn't shown since they were very familiar and forgot what it's like to be on the other side of the screen. I nearly quit, but that isn't my nature. After a few weeks, I grabbed a pair of digital calipers (highly recommended) and measured something around the house and began modeling it.

My efforts gave the desired shape for the most part, but not knowing what I didn't know, there were many mistakes built-in. I still have that original object to remind me what it's like to be at the base of a tall mountain looking toward the summit. The climb was worth the view but it didn't happen fast or easily.

Too many online videos teach what a tool can do but don't really show how it can be used in conjunction with the other tools in the software. It was like being given a hammer, nails, wood, and a saw and then trying to build a house. This exemplifies why so many would-be modelers get frustrated and quit.

The key to becoming a proficient 3D modeler is understanding how the program's tools operate, and how to use them in combinations, (called workflow) to achieve the desired results. This boils down to practice, practice, practice.

For the most part, there is no one, right way to create an object. As a 3D modeling instructor later on, I emphasized this approach to spark creativity by demonstrating multiple ways to achieve the same outcome. Nobody learns the same way and the one-size-fits-all training approach doesn't produce efficient modeling skills in a classroom of individuals. Building a student's self-confidence brushes frustration aside when the going gets tough.

I was fortunate to be able to take a class from a teacher whose reputation was well-known to me years before. He emphasized the philosophy I just mentioned beginning on the first day of class. Again, the best software, is the one that works for you. They can give the same end result, using the same types of tools with different names. If one free program doesn't resonate with you, try another for a few weeks.

A few years later, I taught small groups of students using his proven methodology and was impressed how fast their skills progressed when they returned months later for follow-on training. Each had developed a workflow of their own.

3D modeling is as much a mindset as a skill. Knowing that made all the difference for me. Your milage may vary.

I hope my long-winded explanation helps answer some questions for anyone patient enough to follow along. Fire back if I didn't explain it coherently and I'll try to do better.

CC
 
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Hobbyist Level: Blender, TinkerCAD, and SketchUp, are good examples. There are many others. Nearly all are free, but they're likely easier to master than Fusion 360, though less capable in the options they offer in many cases.
Blender is not just modeling software.
It's a highly sophisticated program that allows you to create animations of a very high standard. In this sense, it's much more complicated than Fusion.
 
I guess one could characterize any 3D program as sophisticated.

For the sake of discussion here, animation software is a completely different topic. I use it to set up shots for rendering, but the objects being rendered are created within a modeling environment.

Feel free to start a new thread extolling the virtues of animation software, but the OP wasn't asking for animation information.

I'll repeat: The best modeling software is the one that gives you the desired result. I think we can all agree on that.
 
Thanks guys. I’ve used Sketchup before and am pretty familiar with it. I’ve been researching Fusion 360 and it’s definitely more complicated, but seems to have a lot more features. I’d like to give it a try.
But, I’m brand new to 3D printing. Is every CAD program compatible with every 3D printer? If I get Fusion 360 how do I know it will be compatible with the cheap, simple 3D printer that I get?
Fusion exports 3D files in several formats. Your primary format that will work on 3D printers is the .STL format. Itsthe format you need to start with. Your slicer should be able to import the STL file and may even repair it if needed before scaling to your desired size and slicing the model.
 
Let's go backwards for a moment, so I understand what you want to do.

There are two types of software associated with 3D printing, regardless of the printer type, (filament - like your Creality, or resin):

1) Design software, (aka CAD or object modeling software) to create objects to be printed. This requires considerable time and effort to master whatever program is used and divides the printing community into two distinct camps:

Those who design their own custom objects, and the rest who print objects designed by others.

2) Slicer software converts predesigned objects into G-code transparently for the user. G-code is the language the printer uses to command itself how to print the object. In a similar manner, machinists use G-code to operate programmable 5-axis mills and lathes.


If you want to print a pre-made object yourself, you can download thousands of free objects from file-sharing sites like Thingverse. The most popular format for downloaded objects is called STL format.

Example: Here's a naval cannon available on Thingverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:338952

You can download the file, decompress it, (it will be unpacked as multiple STLs for each part of the cannon) and open each STL using a slicer (nearly every 3D printer comes with slicer software that needs to be configured for your particular make and model of printer, and filament type to be used to set the printing temperature.)

Once you load the STL into your slicer, it will tell you the physical dimensions of the object being printed. It the size is too large or small, you can easily scale the final size you want using the slicer. Slicing software is generally very simple to use, and you can play around with the settings with a pre-made object without damaging anything for practice. Once the slicer is configured, (usually automatically once the make/model of printer is entered) it will indicate if the object(s) won't fit on the build plate.

Raise3D has a (free) slicer and it's excellent as a training aid -even if for those who are interested in 3D printing but don't own a 3D printer. I didn't know much about 3D printing but since it was the slicer used at work, (and compatible with many other non-Raise3D filament printer brands) so I downloaded it at home, and loaded a simple Thingverse file and began my 3D printing education.

I was shocked how easy it was to pick up and could perform slicing basics with an hour or two of experimentation. The next day at work, I printed my first 3D object.

For anyone following along, here's a link to download the Raise3D slicer (IdeaMaker): https://www.raise3d.com/download/

YouTube has plenty of excellent Raise3D-produced videos to help learn it quickly.

There are many other slicers available, (both free and paid with more features) but they all do the same thing.

Modeling Software runs in two general types:

1) Professional Level: (Almost all paid subscriptions) like SolidWorks, Catia, and ProE, just to name a few. These cost thousands of dollars a year.

One popular exception is Fusion 360, (a form of SolidWorks Lite). It offers high-end parametric capabilities, -meaning if you design something and want to change it later, the change ripples through the model and automatically updates anything the change affects. This saves mucho time.

Example: You model a vehicle and the door handle is too thin. Changing the door handle may affect the pocket in the door it's attached to, so the depth of the pocket needs to change as well. Parametric modeling updates the model without the designer having to dig through it looking for problems caused by the revised door handle. It's super-powerful and saves valuable time, but still has a steep learning curve.

Fusion 360 has a free version and a paid subscription that offers more capabilities. After all, they want people to upgrade and make some money.

2) Hobbyist Level: Blender, TinkerCAD, and SketchUp, are good examples. There are many others. Nearly all are free, but they're likely easier to master than Fusion 360, though less capable in the options they offer in many cases.

What's the best design software? The one you know how to use that produces the outcome you want.

What's the easiest way to learn how to use any software? Classroom or formal training with instant feedback from a teacher. Many community colleges and local community centers offer CAD training since a lot of people want to learn how to create their custom objects. Even better, find someone local and invest in one-on-one tutoring. You will get instant feedback that eliminates the frustration you will face when a YouTube video doesn't work.

When I decided to learn 3D modeling, many orbits ago, I started out with online videos, and grew frustrated up because something wasn't explained in a way I comprehended or the author performed a step that wasn't shown since they were very familiar and forgot what it's like to be on the other side of the screen. I nearly quit, but that isn't my nature. After a few weeks, I grabbed a pair of digital calipers (highly recommended) and measure something around the house and began modeling it.

My efforts gave the desired shape for the most part, but not knowing what I didn't know, there were many mistakes built-in. I still have that original object to remind me what it's like to be at the base of a tall mountain look toward the summit. The climb was worth the view but it didn't happen fast or easily.

Too many online videos teach what a tool can do but don't really show how it can be used in conjunction with the other tools in the software. It was like being given a hammer, nails, wood, and a saw and then trying to build a house. This exemplifies why so many would-be modelers get frustrated and quit.

The key to becoming a proficient 3D modeler is understanding how the program's tools operate, and how to use them in combinations, (called workflow) to achieve the desired results. This boils down to practice, practice, practice.

For the most part, there is no one, right way to create an object. As a 3D modeling instructor later on, I emphasized this approach to spark creativity by demonstrating multiple ways to get the same outcome. Nobody learns the same way and the one-size-fits-all approach doesn't produce efficient modeling skills in a classroom of individuals. Building a student's self-confidence brushes frustration aside when the going gets tough.

I was fortunate to be able to take a class from a teacher whose reputation was well-known to me years before. He emphasized the philosophy I just mentioned beginning on the first day of class. Again, the best software, is the one that works for you. They can give the same end result, using the same types of tools with different names. If one free program doesn't resonate with you, try another for a few weeks.

A few years later, I taught small groups of students using his proven methodology and was impressed how fast their skills had progressed when they returned months later for follow-on training. Each had developed a workflow of their own.

3D modeling is as much a mindset as a skill. Knowing that made all the difference for me. Your milage may vary.

I hope my long-winded explanation helps answer some questions for anyone patient enough to follow along. Fire back if I didn't explain it coherently and I'll try to do better.

CC
WOW!!! Thanks. I copied and pasted this into a WORD doc so that I can keep it and read it/refer to it later. This is most helpful. I'll let you know how I progress in my learning curve. This info certainly flattens it out a good bit.
 
Perhaps give Onshape a go, it runs in your browser.
Its a feature based CAD tool, similar to Fusion.
So basically create sketches, revolve or extrude, round chamfer, all parameter driven.
But honestly, none of these are self explanatory.
But there are tons of YouTube videos and others sources online.

Thank you!! I will do that
 
WOW!!! Thanks. I copied and pasted this into a WORD doc so that I can keep it and read it/refer to it later. This is most helpful. I'll let you know how I progress in my learning curve. This info certainly flattens it out a good bit.
I do the same thing whenever I see an online post that has valuable information I know I'll need at some point.

I'll need to print a clear half-bubble canopy for installation on a current submarine build I'm designing and found a post the other day full of tips explaining how to coat the part after printing to give it a gloss finish. That's my favorite part of online forums: Someone will almost always share their experience/expertise to help others.

The learning never ends!

CC
 
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