Which bow planking is correct?

I agree w comments made from all. The problem lies in the fact of boxed kits. You have to work w the planking strips given. To plank it correctly follow the nationality and must be scratched built. But then again, I am not the expert on it. All I know is that given two box kits, I tapered the stern and bow planks and don’t remember using and spiling. My tapering would START right when the hull began to curve inward making long gradual tapers. Usually the at the end of the taper, the plank was about A little more than 1/2 as wide. So if my plank was 5mm it would be About 3mm at end of taper. This probably is inaccurate too, but was the only way to work w boxed (Kit) ships. My opinion and I admit probably wrong way.
Donald
 
I have been following the discussion in this thread with great interest and many thanks to all for their contributions.
I am in the throes of building my first model ship (Endeavour) in wood, my build log is on this site. While appreciating that there is a correct method of planking a ship, doing so requires a great amount of practice and experience and also requiring the plans to plank the model under construction correctly. Such plans are not available in kits.
I don't pretend to be anywhere near this stage of experience and the planking efforts on my current build reflect this shortfall. How to bend planks laterally, for instance - a special universal fixture to bend each plank accordingly, perhaps?

My questions relating to the topic are:
What is the best wood for 1st and 2nd planking?
I wonder if there are any planking courses for model ships in Germany?
(Gibt es in Deutschland irgendwelche Beplankungskurse für den Modelschiffsbau?)

I look forward to Messis close-ups and explaination, which I could transfer to my next model.
 
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I have been following the discussion in this thread with great interest and many thanks to all for their contributions.
I am in the throes of building my first model ship (Endeavour) in wood, my build log is on this site. While appreciating that there is a correct method of planking a ship, doing so requires a great amount of practice and experience and also requiring the plans to plank the model under construction correctly. Such plans are not available in kits.
I don't pretend to be anywhere near this stage of experience and the planking efforts on my current build reflect this shortfall. How to bend planks laterally, for instance - a special universal fixture to bend each plank accordingly, perhaps?

My questions relating to the topic are:
What is the best wood for 1st and 2nd planking?
I wonder if there are any planking courses for model ships in Germany?
(Gibt es in Deutschland irgendwelche Beplankungskurse für den Modelschiffsbau?)

I look forward to Messis close-ups and explaination, which I could transfer to my next model.

Hello. The quality of kits and their instructions is discussed worldwide. In my opinion, the best instructions for construction are model forums, I also did not build the kit according to the instructions. The instructions are sometimes very bad. Good luck.
 
Which bow planking is considered in real shipbuilding the correct one? View attachment 148451View attachment 148453


The 1st picture is taken from from Bellabarba's book The Royal Yacht Caroline, the second one its from a fine done model.

The planking scheme on any ship is purely a math problem, namely "how many full width planks strakes will fit into a given vertical hull length". The ship designer had to know how to calculate the length from rabbet to wale and design the ship such that, at the very least, no plank was narrower than 50% (and hopefully none of them were) of the average plank width. Poor designers might end up with straight run planks an inch wide (requiring numerous stealers). Incompetent designers would end up with planks that came to a point at the stem (as illustrated in the color photo) or, ended at the underside of the wales (both cases are an absolute no-no, You would be hard pressed to count the number of photos of this apparently accepted mess that were presented as feature articles in Model Ship Builder). Fair designers would have planking schemes that could be constructed with some spiling. The best designers would build ships with parallel edge planks (they actually knew how to perform longhand addition and division). The two photos above represent an aaverage job with stealers on the left. There is nothing wrong with stealers other than they represented a lot of extra work and money to construct. The color photo on the right represents either what was required to plank a ship designed by an incompetent fool or, the the model design of a ship never built scribbled onto paper by a drunk or, drugged, or very low IQ employee at a model manufacturing company; there are no acceptable excuses for this kind of incompetence. No amount of skilled workmanship can turn this mess into anything even remotely considered as representing reality. I won't apologize for the negatives simply because I see this kind of "crap" being sold at exorbitant prices to people who apparently don't know what a ship really looked like. Shame on the people who put together these abortion kits and a word of advice to builders to do some research on their own.
 
The planking scheme on any ship is purely a math problem, namely "how many full width planks strakes will fit into a given vertical hull length". The ship designer had to know how to calculate the length from rabbet to wale and design the ship such that, at the very least, no plank was narrower than 50% (and hopefully none of them were) of the average plank width. Poor designers might end up with straight run planks an inch wide (requiring numerous stealers). Incompetent designers would end up with planks that came to a point at the stem (as illustrated in the color photo) or, ended at the underside of the wales (both cases are an absolute no-no, You would be hard pressed to count the number of photos of this apparently accepted mess that were presented as feature articles in Model Ship Builder). Fair designers would have planking schemes that could be constructed with some spiling. The best designers would build ships with parallel edge planks (they actually knew how to perform longhand addition and division). The two photos above represent an aaverage job with stealers on the left. There is nothing wrong with stealers other than they represented a lot of extra work and money to construct. The color photo on the right represents either what was required to plank a ship designed by an incompetent fool or, the the model design of a ship never built scribbled onto paper by a drunk or, drugged, or very low IQ employee at a model manufacturing company; there are no acceptable excuses for this kind of incompetence. No amount of skilled workmanship can turn this mess into anything even remotely considered as representing reality. I won't apologize for the negatives simply because I see this kind of "crap" being sold at exorbitant prices to people who apparently don't know what a ship really looked like. Shame on the people who put together these abortion kits and a word of advice to builders to do some research on their own.
What he said
 
There is a mistake!
I have just started the second planking, I am planning to change the dropplanks sequence. In the first planking the first dropplank (direction towards the keel) is longer than the second dropplank. I believe this is wrong, so in the 2nd planking am making the 1st dropplank shorter and am making longer the lower one.
 
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