Working Steam powered wooden Drifter trawler, Formidable LT100, 1:24th scale

Good morning, Stephen! I can only echo the comments of my fellow SOS members. I can only stand in awe of the scope of the skills that you have. Whether it is wood or metal - the outcome is always the same - spectacular! How you actually go about conceiving the ways of making these parts, is just totally beyond me.
 
Jimsky said:
Most times, when I look at your fabricated parts, I instantly think of buying the lathe, but...one thing to own one, and totally different using it right! Your ability to use various machine tools, without a question - a master at work!
Click to expand...
Thanks Jim,
You are quite right, although I tend to think that you know your way around a lathe pretty well as well.
Not sure about the master thing but thank you.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Heinrich said:
Good morning, Stephen! I can only echo the comments of my fellow SOS members. I can only stand in awe of the scope of the skills that you have. Whether it is wood or metal - the outcome is always the same - spectacular! How you actually go about conceiving the ways of making these parts, is just totally beyond me.
Click to expand...
Good morning Heinrich,
Thank you for the kind comments.
It does take some thought to begin with.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Stevedownunder said:
Thanks Martin,
I am not 100% sure I understand the tapered bit, but the splines seem to butt up the the squares this is what I intend to do when I get that far.
Maybe this photo will clarify the overall picture.
View attachment 329783

It is interesting that what I assume to be the bearers are drawn sitting on top of the splines, or maybe they are anti slip-boards.

Cheers,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Hi Stephen,
If the Bearers are on top of the splines would that also mean that the Square wood is also on top and not flush ?
 
Thanks Martin,
I tend to think that the bearers are under the splines otherwise they wouldn't bare anything. I think the "squares" are flush with the splines as shown in the photo of Lydia Eva. My thoughts at the moment are the strips shown on the drawing sitting on to of the splines are to help stop people sliding around too much when the splines are wet.
IMG_2517.JPG


Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Hi Stephen,
Looking at your deck and looking at the last attached photo all seems right.
But looking at the drawing I am beginning to wonder if they marked the bearers on top to indicate where they should be, as they are definitely not visible in the video snapshot.
(Possible drawing error)
 
Hi Martin,
You are quite right the drawing shows what would most likely be bearers on top as you point out it could be a drafting error or the strips shown on the drawing sitting on to of the splines are to help stop people sliding around too much when the splines are wet.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Martin555. said:
Hi Stephen,
As you probably know I don't know much about the construction of ships and boats but looking at photos 4 and 6 on the drawings it show lines going to each corner of the square, dose that mean that the surrounding wood work should taper to the sides ?
Great detail on the covers.
Your work truly amazes me.
Keep it up.

Martin.
Click to expand...
G'day Steve lovely work, I haven't been doing much to my Drifter, been concentrating on the Royal William,

To answer Martins question, i think what the draughtsman is trying to show is that the block that the fish hatch is sitting in is made up of four pieces of wood so that there would be no end grain showing, just a thought, but maybe not, we both know about other errors in the plans, looking forward to more of your build,

best regards john,
 
neptune said:
G'day Steve lovely work, I haven't been doing much to my Drifter, been concentrating on the Royal William,

To answer Martins question, i think what the draughtsman is trying to show is that the block that the fish hatch is sitting in is made up of four pieces of wood so that there would be no end grain showing, just a thought, but maybe not, we both know about other errors in the plans, looking forward to more of your build,

best regards john,
Click to expand...
Thanks John,
Well I completely missed the mark on that one, I would say you are right that is the 'tapered bit' Martin was referring to.
I didn't even notice it on the plan, not sure how I missed that.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Deck Doubling + Coal Bunker.​


A few weeks ago I made up some material for the deck doubling, this is from Huon pine the width being exactly to scale with the thickness a little thicker than scale, this was following Ted Frosts description which says 7”x 1” boards were used.
DSC_0345.1.JPG

After machining to size I “weathered” the planking individually in the same way I did the deck planks in an attempt to have a more random effect.
DSC_0352.1.JPG

I decided to glue the Deck doubling together before gluing them to the deck, I did this so I could cut the holes for the Coal Bunker Rings later as there was a bit of fitting to do along with a recess in the deck planks to take the thickness of my Coal Bunker Rings, basically I wasn’t confidant I could do it all in one hit. To make sure I was gluing the doublers in the right spot I put some Tamiya tape on the deck and marked it then marked out the positions of things on a piece of waxed baking paper and then glued the doublers together on the waxed paper.DSC_0354.1.JPGDSC_0356.1.JPG

After the glue mix had set a bit I trimmed of the excess the same way I did the deck.
DSC_0359.1.JPG

Then before completely drying I clamped them to conform to the deck shape and left it overnight.
DSC_0357.1.JPG

Next day I was pretty happy with how they looked and proceeded to tape the doublers down and start cutting a circle with my new circle cutter, with a modified cutting blade (area that I removed marked in Blue), this all went pretty smoothly taking my time to cut the holes.
DSC_0361.1.JPGDSC_0362.1.JPG

I set up a small Carbide burr in the Proxxon rotary tool held in the router jig and preceded to machine a recess in the deck to allow my Bunker Rings to sit flush with the Deck Doublers.
DSC_0365.1.JPG

Next step was to Chemically blacken the Coal Bunker Rings and Lids, I followed the instructions I had found and after de-canting a small amount into a cup then applied the chemical directly with a brush. This proved to be a slow process with extensive cleaning and repeated applications to achieve the desired colour. Once I had the colour I cleaned the chemical off with water and without disturbing the surface left it to dry in the sun once completely dry I sprayed some clear lacquer that is formulated for Brass and Copper to seal it up.
IMG_2454.1.JPGDSC_0370.1.JPG

One thing that was bothering me even although I had pushed ahead was that the doublers looked too big when sitting on the deck, eventually this got to me and I measured what the plan says and compared it to what I had made. There was a 2 mm difference in width at this point I decided it was best to go inside as I was feeling a bit unhappy with myself for not paying more attention to the plans instead of rigidly sticking to Ted’s description.

Seeing I only needed to remove 2 mm I decided to divide it by 4 and remove .5 mm from 4 planks and set about removing the outer planks which came away without damage this enabled me to trim down the 4 faces. Thankfully this made all the difference.

On the 2 removable Coal Bunker Lids I have added a small eyelet to attach a lanyard too, I did this because I could see myself easily loosing them at the pond.
On the Coal Bunker Rings and cap head screw I have engraved a line and painted it so I can easily tell if the removable deck section is locked in place.
DSC_0369.1.JPGDSC_0366.1.JPG

DSC_0367.1.JPG




Thanks for the having a look, more to come.

Again I welcome constructive comments.

Cheers,

Stephen.
 
Stevedownunder said:
Deck Doubling + Coal Bunker.​


A few weeks ago I made up some material for the deck doubling, this is from Huon pine the width being exactly to scale with the thickness a little thicker than scale, this was following Ted Frosts description which says 7”x 1” boards were used.
View attachment 331628

After machining to size I “weathered” the planking individually in the same way I did the deck planks in an attempt to have a more random effect.
View attachment 331629

I decided to glue the Deck doubling together before gluing them to the deck, I did this so I could cut the holes for the Coal Bunker Rings later as there was a bit of fitting to do along with a recess in the deck planks to take the thickness of my Coal Bunker Rings, basically I wasn’t confidant I could do it all in one hit. To make sure I was gluing the doublers in the right spot I put some Tamiya tape on the deck and marked it then marked out the positions of things on a piece of waxed baking paper and then glued the doublers together on the waxed paper.View attachment 331630View attachment 331631

After the glue mix had set a bit I trimmed of the excess the same way I did the deck.
View attachment 331632

Then before completely drying I clamped them to conform to the deck shape and left it overnight.
View attachment 331633

Next day I was pretty happy with how they looked and proceeded to tape the doublers down and start cutting a circle with my new circle cutter, with a modified cutting blade (area that I removed marked in Blue), this all went pretty smoothly taking my time to cut the holes.
View attachment 331634View attachment 331635

I set up a small Carbide burr in the Proxxon rotary tool held in the router jig and preceded to machine a recess in the deck to allow my Bunker Rings to sit flush with the Deck Doublers.
View attachment 331636

Next step was to Chemically blacken the Coal Bunker Rings and Lids, I followed the instructions I had found and after de-canting a small amount into a cup then applied the chemical directly with a brush. This proved to be a slow process with extensive cleaning and repeated applications to achieve the desired colour. Once I had the colour I cleaned the chemical off with water and without disturbing the surface left it to dry in the sun once completely dry I sprayed some clear lacquer that is formulated for Brass and Copper to seal it up.
View attachment 331637View attachment 331638

One thing that was bothering me even although I had pushed ahead was that the doublers looked too big when sitting on the deck, eventually this got to me and I measured what the plan says and compared it to what I had made. There was a 2 mm difference in width at this point I decided it was best to go inside as I was feeling a bit unhappy with myself for not paying more attention to the plans instead of rigidly sticking to Ted’s description.

Seeing I only needed to remove 2 mm I decided to divide it by 4 and remove .5 mm from 4 planks and set about removing the outer planks which came away without damage this enabled me to trim down the 4 faces. Thankfully this made all the difference.

On the 2 removable Coal Bunker Lids I have added a small eyelet to attach a lanyard too, I did this because I could see myself easily loosing them at the pond.
On the Coal Bunker Rings and cap head screw I have engraved a line and painted it so I can easily tell if the removable deck section is locked in place.
View attachment 331639View attachment 331640

View attachment 331641




Thanks for the having a look, more to come.

Again I welcome constructive comments.

Cheers,

Stephen.
Click to expand...
Once more I can only stand in awe at the detail of this build. I just love how you go about planning things and describing your thought process as part of the construction. Even though I am getting better at this, I am nowhere near your meticulous approach. And, of course, when it comes to actual metal work I can only marvel at the techniques and the superbly finished final product. This is going to be a Trawler to be very proud of, for sure!
 
Stevedownunder said:
Deck Doubling + Coal Bunker.​


A few weeks ago I made up some material for the deck doubling, this is from Huon pine the width being exactly to scale with the thickness a little thicker than scale, this was following Ted Frosts description which says 7”x 1” boards were used.
View attachment 331628

After machining to size I “weathered” the planking individually in the same way I did the deck planks in an attempt to have a more random effect.
View attachment 331629

I decided to glue the Deck doubling together before gluing them to the deck, I did this so I could cut the holes for the Coal Bunker Rings later as there was a bit of fitting to do along with a recess in the deck planks to take the thickness of my Coal Bunker Rings, basically I wasn’t confidant I could do it all in one hit. To make sure I was gluing the doublers in the right spot I put some Tamiya tape on the deck and marked it then marked out the positions of things on a piece of waxed baking paper and then glued the doublers together on the waxed paper.View attachment 331630View attachment 331631

After the glue mix had set a bit I trimmed of the excess the same way I did the deck.
View attachment 331632

Then before completely drying I clamped them to conform to the deck shape and left it overnight.
View attachment 331633

Next day I was pretty happy with how they looked and proceeded to tape the doublers down and start cutting a circle with my new circle cutter, with a modified cutting blade (area that I removed marked in Blue), this all went pretty smoothly taking my time to cut the holes.
View attachment 331634View attachment 331635

I set up a small Carbide burr in the Proxxon rotary tool held in the router jig and preceded to machine a recess in the deck to allow my Bunker Rings to sit flush with the Deck Doublers.
View attachment 331636

Next step was to Chemically blacken the Coal Bunker Rings and Lids, I followed the instructions I had found and after de-canting a small amount into a cup then applied the chemical directly with a brush. This proved to be a slow process with extensive cleaning and repeated applications to achieve the desired colour. Once I had the colour I cleaned the chemical off with water and without disturbing the surface left it to dry in the sun once completely dry I sprayed some clear lacquer that is formulated for Brass and Copper to seal it up.
View attachment 331637View attachment 331638

One thing that was bothering me even although I had pushed ahead was that the doublers looked too big when sitting on the deck, eventually this got to me and I measured what the plan says and compared it to what I had made. There was a 2 mm difference in width at this point I decided it was best to go inside as I was feeling a bit unhappy with myself for not paying more attention to the plans instead of rigidly sticking to Ted’s description.

Seeing I only needed to remove 2 mm I decided to divide it by 4 and remove .5 mm from 4 planks and set about removing the outer planks which came away without damage this enabled me to trim down the 4 faces. Thankfully this made all the difference.

On the 2 removable Coal Bunker Lids I have added a small eyelet to attach a lanyard too, I did this because I could see myself easily loosing them at the pond.
On the Coal Bunker Rings and cap head screw I have engraved a line and painted it so I can easily tell if the removable deck section is locked in place.
View attachment 331639View attachment 331640

View attachment 331641




Thanks for the having a look, more to come.

Again I welcome constructive comments.

Cheers,

Stephen.
Click to expand...
Beautiful work Steve, she is coming along very nicely,

best regards john,
 
Stevedownunder said:
Deck Doubling + Coal Bunker.​


A few weeks ago I made up some material for the deck doubling, this is from Huon pine the width being exactly to scale with the thickness a little thicker than scale, this was following Ted Frosts description which says 7”x 1” boards were used.
View attachment 331628

After machining to size I “weathered” the planking individually in the same way I did the deck planks in an attempt to have a more random effect.
View attachment 331629

I decided to glue the Deck doubling together before gluing them to the deck, I did this so I could cut the holes for the Coal Bunker Rings later as there was a bit of fitting to do along with a recess in the deck planks to take the thickness of my Coal Bunker Rings, basically I wasn’t confidant I could do it all in one hit. To make sure I was gluing the doublers in the right spot I put some Tamiya tape on the deck and marked it then marked out the positions of things on a piece of waxed baking paper and then glued the doublers together on the waxed paper.View attachment 331630View attachment 331631

After the glue mix had set a bit I trimmed of the excess the same way I did the deck.
View attachment 331632

Then before completely drying I clamped them to conform to the deck shape and left it overnight.
View attachment 331633

Next day I was pretty happy with how they looked and proceeded to tape the doublers down and start cutting a circle with my new circle cutter, with a modified cutting blade (area that I removed marked in Blue), this all went pretty smoothly taking my time to cut the holes.
View attachment 331634View attachment 331635

I set up a small Carbide burr in the Proxxon rotary tool held in the router jig and preceded to machine a recess in the deck to allow my Bunker Rings to sit flush with the Deck Doublers.
View attachment 331636

Next step was to Chemically blacken the Coal Bunker Rings and Lids, I followed the instructions I had found and after de-canting a small amount into a cup then applied the chemical directly with a brush. This proved to be a slow process with extensive cleaning and repeated applications to achieve the desired colour. Once I had the colour I cleaned the chemical off with water and without disturbing the surface left it to dry in the sun once completely dry I sprayed some clear lacquer that is formulated for Brass and Copper to seal it up.
View attachment 331637View attachment 331638

One thing that was bothering me even although I had pushed ahead was that the doublers looked too big when sitting on the deck, eventually this got to me and I measured what the plan says and compared it to what I had made. There was a 2 mm difference in width at this point I decided it was best to go inside as I was feeling a bit unhappy with myself for not paying more attention to the plans instead of rigidly sticking to Ted’s description.

Seeing I only needed to remove 2 mm I decided to divide it by 4 and remove .5 mm from 4 planks and set about removing the outer planks which came away without damage this enabled me to trim down the 4 faces. Thankfully this made all the difference.

On the 2 removable Coal Bunker Lids I have added a small eyelet to attach a lanyard too, I did this because I could see myself easily loosing them at the pond.
On the Coal Bunker Rings and cap head screw I have engraved a line and painted it so I can easily tell if the removable deck section is locked in place.
View attachment 331639View attachment 331640

View attachment 331641




Thanks for the having a look, more to come.

Again I welcome constructive comments.

Cheers,

Stephen.
Click to expand...
Hi Stephen,
I assume you will be weathering them.
Yes I know that was a stupid question LOL!
Great work yet again.
 
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