YQ Bluenose, 1/72 POF by Stargazer

Heinrich

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My reasoning was simply that if the beveling was done accurately there would be the minimum fairing required. But Don certainly has a point as well. On a POB build, for instance, I would most certainly leave the char. You can do both and see which one works best for you.
 
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Actually, Heinrich, when I said fairing I meant the bevelling "after the two halves are laminated together" so we are saying the same thing but different kind of sort of!! :p I
I found out that you don’t have to do much fairing of the hull if you follow the bevel lines. Easiest fairing of a hull I’ve done so far! ;)
 
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Yeah, I think definitely leave the char on till they are laminated together, the seams between the laminations turn out better if you leave the char on.... but this is probably all moot as it will still need fairing albeit not as much as if you didn’t bevel first.
 
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Hi Lou,
In this reply in my build-log, I made a compilation picture of some different steps with the char on both parts. The char will help you very much by making the right bevel, as Heinrich, Don and Dean wrote above:
In the text above, it looks it is about treenails. But the link goes to the char-bevel pictures ;) pag.6, reply 103.
Regards, Peter
 
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It is a slow process Lou - just be patient and keep on doing the basics right
It is a slow process Lou - just be patient and keep on doing the basics right!
I have a question as a group present day non-builder but watching the progress. . . why are the frames so long when they get a good portion cut off down to a bit above the stations and decks? Somehow it seems like a lot of fragile work that is in the way of working down inside earlier but then not having done that I may be missing something obvious. The only dumb questions are the ones that I am not asking in my perspective. Rich (PT-2)
 
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I’m thinking it’s because frame one is actually pretty short - probably only a bit more than an inch or so waste wood - but the rest have to be proportionally longer to maintain the hull shape and therefore they are longer??
 
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I’m thinking it’s because frame one is actually pretty short - probably only a bit more than an inch or so waste wood - but the rest have to be proportionally longer to maintain the hull shape and therefore they are longer??
That makes sense as they wanted to have the keel level to square/plumb the frames which a sloping keel with reduced upper waste frame lengths would have made insertion of the frames difficult with the angle between the keel and the sloping waterline and decks. Thanks for your observation which was in plain sight when presented. Rich
 
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Peter, no I did not... because the frame shape (or outline) is determined during the previous step, when you are gluing the frame pieces together to create the two half’s. Laminating the half’s together will not change the frame shape (unless you messed up creating the frame half’s) if the frame shape is off it is because you did not place the separate futtocks together correctly. But just to verify that, I checked them now, after laminating and they match the pattern perfectly- except the amount of wood removed for beveling of course!
 
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Peter, no I did not... because the frame shape (or outline) is determined during the previous step, when you are gluing the frame pieces together to create the two half’s. Laminating the half’s together will not change the frame shape (unless you messed up creating the frame half’s) if the frame shape is off it is because you did not place the separate futtocks together correctly. But just to verify that, I checked them now, after laminating and they match the pattern perfectly- except the amount of wood removed for beveling of course!
As previously mentioned, I used two square pieces of wood to put in the frame notches when gluing the two halves together. That will ensure the two halves are aligned to one another properly. ;)
 
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As previously mentioned, I used two square pieces of wood to put in the frame notches when gluing the two halves together. That will ensure the two halves are aligned to one another properly. ;)
Yep, I adopted that as well- thanks! And I align the inner faces of the lower futtocks (see below) and clamp them up. Has been perfect with the patterns so far....2320C212-3477-45B7-9FC7-794FCB0579AB.jpeg
 
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Peter, no I did not... because the frame shape (or outline) is determined during the previous step, when you are gluing the frame pieces together to create the two half’s. Laminating the half’s together will not change the frame shape (unless you messed up creating the frame half’s) if the frame shape is off it is because you did not place the separate futtocks together correctly. But just to verify that, I checked them now, after laminating and they match the pattern perfectly- except the amount of wood removed for beveling of course!
Hi Lou,
Sorry for my checking question. I see your ‘previous step’ in your post 34.
Happy forwardness: towards the middle of the hull, the amount of wood to remove decreases. ;) But to the end .......
Regards, Peter
 
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To all who have had an interest in the Schooner Bluenose today is the 100th anniversary of the launch of this iconic Canadian schooner.
Happy 100 years to the Bluenose March 26, 1921
The Friday morning live stream hour was a lot of greetings with some interesting historical information and few photos. Now the evening view was small groups with "folk song" type of entertainment. I don't know the schedule for an actual "into the water" launching may be but curiosity will prevail. This link to their newsletter should also bring up a link to the YouTube live streams.
https://mailchi.mp/338b5715e003/march-newsletter-5333653
 
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