No, it's just a snarky nickname I use for it. I order from eBay all the time.
I took my ship plans and went to a copy and print shop and they were able to make 1:1 copies of the prints. The original prints were folded back up and saved while the copies became the working plans. It can be hard to make accurate measurements with a dividers across folds that won't lay flat. The other option is to get the prints laminated, but then you can't scribble notes and changes on the plans.
Will that take all the creases out pretty well?
Making a copy using the large copy machine the printers had left only the faintest indication of where the folds were, and zero distortion. Perhaps making a copy, then painting over and whitening any lines that might appear, then recopying it again could make a really nice poster worthy of mounting. Or, a digital scan could be cleaned of unwanted lines and reprinted.
Olha Batchvarov tends to use PVA glue, probably because it is flexible where CA is brittle. I try to use PVA as much as I can because in the long term (decades later), that flexibility means things won't pop apart. Bending rigging that was secured using CA will break the fibers in the line overtime. It may be faster, but it may also darken wood by soaking into it like a sponge and hardening. As far as pins go, use Fine 10mm pins made by Amati and you won't split planks, even in hardwood like walnut, in most joints. Any other pins are larger and more likely to crack wood. In first layer planking, you can pull the pins out leaving minimal hole size or drive the pins in and submerge the heads in the wood plank over them later in the final planking. Sometimes tool like these thin pins made the difference between success in holding a joint and doing damage. They don't tell you these tricks in kit instructions. That's why we have this forum.
