Decided to build this ship next. There are several nice build logs on this ship on SOS. I'll attach some images of this kit. Don't know if the kit has ever been updated.
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Half Moon (Corel) (SM18) 1:50 Scale [COMPLETED BUILD]
Fittings...
Will use these ropes...
The lion is too shiny. Will likely put a matt clear over it.
Deadeyes come with pre-bent retainers. That's nice.
Will use these ropes...
The lion is too shiny. Will likely put a matt clear over it.Deadeyes come with pre-bent retainers. That's nice.
8 pages of clear illustrations...
Many Thanks for starting a building log of this interesting kit - you will have a bigger number of followers ....
There's 6 pages of instructions... (sorry for the highlights - I did this before taking pics)
Planking and masts. Blue colored planks on ship are already colored. Detailed stiping (green/black/white) are pre-made. Upper part of hull is planked with walnut. Lower part with what Corel calls Tanganika wood. That's the smaller bundle at bottom in the image. Not sure about the 2 different colored woods for the hull.
However, after looking at Seastreet's beautiful build HERE I might use the Tanganika.
However, after looking at Seastreet's beautiful build HERE I might use the Tanganika.
Pre bent retainers ...that is brilliant for sure.
In this image the entire hull is covered with a light colored wood. Looks nice. Will consider this and cut my own planks if I decide to go this way. 
Looking forward to following along. It surely is a neat looking ship and at 1:50 should be very manageable.
I forgot to add this pic. There are no laser cut plywood sheets in this kit. Everything which would be on a laser cut sheet are already cut. None of the bulkheads will fit into the keel. The notches all too narrow. I'm having to trim each bulkhead.
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Its your build, your the master shipwright in your shipyard, so do what you want.
The tanganika makes great deck planks. Corel often makes the bulkhead slots too small. This freaks out new builders who are afraid of changing any of the parts. I know, because I was one of them. Consider it the first step in bashing. This is going to be one beautiful build.
The box art for Corel never seems to be the same color wood as the actual wood provided in the model. It's as if all their box art came from their kit prototype, not the final kit. Usually the kit is more colorful, but if you like the all-wood look, the cover art would appeal to you.
Example, Corel's La Couronne as built from the box
Cover art
The box art for Corel never seems to be the same color wood as the actual wood provided in the model. It's as if all their box art came from their kit prototype, not the final kit. Usually the kit is more colorful, but if you like the all-wood look, the cover art would appeal to you.
Example, Corel's La Couronne as built from the box
Cover art
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Thanks Kurt - good to know. I checked the parts list. The deck planks are tanganika. Man are they thin. I had looked for tanganika wood earlier when I saw some of the hull planking was this wood. I couldn't find it for sale on the internet in the USA. Maybe it's sold in Europe. I wouldn't want pay to ship wood from there.
I used my table saw to slice a very small about of wood from the notches on the bulkheads. They fit perfect now.
I used my table saw to slice a very small about of wood from the notches on the bulkheads. They fit perfect now.
The wood is thin, but it works and looks good. It usually comes from Italy. Mode Expo gets their from Corel. I've bought a lot of it for the Sovereign to replace the cheap basswood DeAgostini provided.
Hopefully your bulkheads fit snugly now, but add some wood blocks to the inside corners where the parts cross to ensure they remain at 90 degree angles, and built yourself a keel vice to ensure the keel does not bend or twist, until you get the first layer of planking on. That're really important if you don't want a visibly bent ship.
Hopefully your bulkheads fit snugly now, but add some wood blocks to the inside corners where the parts cross to ensure they remain at 90 degree angles, and built yourself a keel vice to ensure the keel does not bend or twist, until you get the first layer of planking on. That're really important if you don't want a visibly bent ship.
I didn't see those ship images before Kurt. I like the cover art better.
As a point of realism, the Corel models use belaying pin racks not used in the early 17th century for most of the belaying points for the rigging. Instead, ships at that time tied their lines to kevels, cavals, shroud cleats, or either the timberheads or pins in the railings (see below). The only belaying pin rack known for these early vessels is on the beakhead for lines that operate the spritsail and sprit topsail. It did not become the fashion to belay all running rigging lines to pin rails until the 19th century. It will take a bit of research and outright guesswork to figure a new belaying plan for Half Moon if you want to make the changes for accuracy. Other build logs of Half Moon may yield some clues. How you rig the ship sets the date of the ship in the eyes of those who know the history of rigging styles as surely as the hull design.
Thanks Kurt. I'm not really building these for realism. Mostly for the fun of building them. And something that looks like a ship when I'm finished. 
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Hi Lakedaisy,
Half Moon is a great kit to build and I a sure you will have lots of fun with it. I built it at the time of the first covid lockdown over here and really enjoyed it. Remembering back the only problematic bits where the beakhead rails and that pesky lion figure head who's tail broke off when I tied to bend it to fit.
Good luck. JJ
Half Moon is a great kit to build and I a sure you will have lots of fun with it. I built it at the time of the first covid lockdown over here and really enjoyed it. Remembering back the only problematic bits where the beakhead rails and that pesky lion figure head who's tail broke off when I tied to bend it to fit.
Good luck. JJ
Very nice looking ship JJ.