Half Moon (Corel) (SM18) 1:50 Scale [COMPLETED BUILD]

@DARIVS ARCHITECTVS : "As a point of realism, the Corel models use belaying pin racks not used in the early 17th century for most of the belaying points for the rigging. Instead, ships at that time tied their lines to kevels, cavals, shroud cleats, or either the timberheads or pins in the railings"

Careful Kurt

On the Willem Barentsz - which is a directly comparable ship to the D'Halve Maen, 4 belaying pin racks are used.

Belaying Pin Racks.png

Ab Hoving's plans.

微信图片_20220612192758.jpg

And on my Willem Barentsz #1.
 
@DARIVS ARCHITECTVS : "As a point of realism, the Corel models use belaying pin racks not used in the early 17th century for most of the belaying points for the rigging. Instead, ships at that time tied their lines to kevels, cavals, shroud cleats, or either the timberheads or pins in the railings"

Careful Kurt

On the Willem Barentsz - which is a directly comparable ship to the D'Halve Maen, 4 belaying pin racks are used.

View attachment 321618

Ab Hoving's plans.

View attachment 321619

And on my Willem Barentsz #1.
Goes to show that there are no solid rules... Thanks Heinrich! I'm happy to be wrong when there IS some trustworthy source information to be used!
 
I purchased this quite a while ago, but have not used until now as my ships are small and this is large. But thought what the heck and decided to use it.

The owner never put it together. Left it in the box in the closed and it mildewed. I bought it, cleaned/deodorized/sealed the pieces and put it together. Then put it in the corner.

Link (no image) - Professional Building Slip - HZ-PMS1 - HZ-PMS1

IMG_2156.JPG
 
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That is why you have to fair the hull, Rob. Shimming is only done AFTER the hull has been thoroughly faired.
 
Rob, if you are interested, you can find an excellent tutorial on hull fairing by Piet Sanders - Dutch master builder - in my build log.


The tutorial starts at post #220.
 
Hi Rob,

I have nowhere near the experience of Heinrich or Kurt but from my perspective something is seriously wrong here. To my eye that's not fairing - that's reshaping which should not be necessary on a ship model - at least not to the extent your image shows. Why even provide bulkheads if they fail to serve their most basic function (establishing the general shape of the hull)?

How about finding the deck template and seeing how it fits? Perhaps that will provide some "integral to the kit design" guidance.
 
Don't listen to Paul regarding his experience. He's one of the most meticulous and detail-oriented builders here. Even he sees there is something fundamentally wrong with the shape of these bulkheads and he's on his first masterpiece. Let us all know what you find from studying the bulkheads. Something is definitely amiss. It must be corrected or the ship will look right.
 
Hi Rob,

I have nowhere near the experience of Heinrich or Kurt but from my perspective something is seriously wrong here. To my eye that's not fairing - that's reshaping which should not be necessary on a ship model - at least not to the extent your image shows. Why even provide bulkheads if they fail to serve their most basic function (establishing the general shape of the hull)?

How about finding the deck template and seeing how it fits? Perhaps that will provide some "integral to the kit design" guidance.
That is a valid point, Paul. If the strakes have been applied at the exact same position on all the bulkheads, then the irregularity does seem severe.
 
Okay. The bulkheads are in and aligned as they should be. i had to trim the deck (is that a false deck?) fore/aft in places to insert it correctly. I didn't want to move the bulkheads (bulwark stems?? sticking up above the deck). I'm thinking I must have inserted some of the bulkheads in the wrong places as fairing looks a lot better now. I've been making a lot of mistakes so was likely me. Two bulkheads seem to stick out more that they should (on both port/starboard). I'm thinking they just need to be sanded down during the fairing???

Kurt. I should have checked the actual bulkhead shape against the plans. I already had them glued in. I even have a cheat sheet that I made for myself of things I need to do when progressing with the build. I forgot to check it as I tell myself to check the bulkheads before installing. I'm going to print it out and place it on the workbench and maybe for the next steps I'll look at it. ROTF

IMG_2168.JPG
 
Okay. The bulkheads are in and aligned as they should be. i had to trim the deck (is that a false deck?) fore/aft in places to insert it correctly. I didn't want to move the bulkheads (bulwark stems?? sticking up above the deck). I'm thinking I must have inserted some of the bulkheads in the wrong places as fairing looks a lot better now. I've been making a lot of mistakes so was likely me. Two bulkheads seem to stick out more that they should (on both port/starboard). I'm thinking they just need to be sanded down during the fairing???

Kurt. I should have checked the actual bulkhead shape against the plans. I already had them glued in. I even have a cheat sheet that I made for myself of things I need to do when progressing with the build. I forgot to check it as I tell myself to check the bulkheads before installing. I'm going to print it out and place it on the workbench and maybe for the next steps I'll look at it. ROTF

View attachment 321881
Even if a couple of the bulkheads are swapped around on the keel, there is a method to restore each to its proper shape. The key is the drawings. Assuming that the drawings contain 1:1 scale outlines of each bulkhead, you can do the following to determine how to reshape bulkheads that require it:

1) make a copy of the drawing of the bulkheads and cut them out as paper patterns.
2) cut each bulkhead paper pattern, with the thickness of the keel plate removed from the center.
3) Lay the half-patterns on the wooden bulkheads and see which bulkhead requires wood shims to be added to the outboard edges and which need sanding in order to match the paper patterns.
4) Shim and trim the edges until the bulkheads match the patterns, the check the hull by placing a plank across the bulkheads like you did before and look at the results.

If shimming and trimming seems too much work, you can always replace an entire bulkhead but cutting it free from the keel, and making a new bulkhead from plywood you supply yourself. If the replacement plywood is too thick to fit into the keel plate slot, re-size the slot. You are at the stage where any of these frame parts can be altered or replaced. None of the changes you make are visible on the finished model, and this give you lots of freedom to make changes. The only important thing is that the shape of the bulkheads is correct such that you get a smooth and proper hull shape when planking is applied, and there is no bend or twist in the framework as you add the planks. Everything else after you assemble this framework can be built as the kit instructions show. The end result will look exactly as the box cover art in the end. Here's the bonus: by making these changes and corrections, you gain confidence and skill in building that is the foundation of scratch building, and you no longer fear to make changes to your model, because you know that each change is researched and verified that it will improve the model. Once you lessen the fear of making mistakes, you free yourself to add to the model and make it truly your own, and better than just the kit. The satisfaction that comes form this is enormous.
 
Wow. Great information Kurt. Thank you. I'll try making cutouts for the worst looking offenders and see if I find any differences.
 
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