HMS Victory 1/96 by Shipyard

[IoannisK]

Maybe this drawing is helpful
View attachment 334869
Due to the fact that the muzzle is thicker at his end, also the carriage is in front smaller than at the rear

Thank you for the photo. I saw today what you said and I realized I had assembled the wheel supports reverse (front to back). I will redesign the carriages according to the image by calibrating the transom to fit my guns. Also the image has a lot of terminologies, something I lack of knowledge.



To the update: I glued the upper gun deck:


The complete ship so far:


The inner bulwarks, painted yellow ochre:


The inner bulwarks dry fitted and with two cannons:



I noticed that the lower spacer (the piece between the two red lines on the front bulwark) is lower than it should be. That means after I glue the bulwarks I must cut the piece (thankfully its very easy) and reposition it accordingly to the gun ports.

Thank you all for your advises!!!

 

[Martin555.]

Good to see you are running your wiring for the lighting as you go.
There must be quite a bit of forward planning to get the wires to where you want them.

 

[IoannisK]

Good to see you are running your wiring for the lighting as you go.
There must be quite a bit of forward planning to get the wires to where you want them.

Well, I glued some paper coffee straws to use them as channels but my main issue and the main reason I didn't move faster is that I want the cables to be as much as possible to be invisible. And this is the main reason I didn't glue yet the remaining pieces of the first planking. Also since its my first model of the ship I don't know exactly how much LEDs I need and at what places. I have seen many models of the ship but when I complete this I will have a much better perception about the placements. So the next ship maybe have a different lighting.

Thank you

 

[IoannisK]

Well I glued the inner bulwarks and while I eas waiting to dry, I decided to give another try to the carriages. The design is based on the image Uwek posted above.
The results:








Thank you for your time and advises!!!

 

[IoannisK]

It's been a long time since my last time here. The reason is that I had problems with my 3d printer, the bed leveling but I finally managed to fix them. Then the filament didn't stick to the base so I needed to use paper tape. Finally I pushed accidentally the point I show at the image and it resulted again at wrong level, but I managed to fix it by lifting up again:


I finished the gun port frames:


In the meantime I printed 36 carriages for the upper gun deck, I have to print ~10 more:



I spend almost one and half, two hours trying to make the cannon rigging, to this result. I have to say that I don't like it and I must experiment more (sorry for the quality but I don't have macro lens yet) :


And now some photos with the main deck dry fitted:


Thank you for your time!!!!

 

[Martin555.]

Hi IoannisK
It look's like you have been successful with your 3D cannon carriages.
Good work.

 

[IoannisK]

Thank you, the truth is that this scale makes it a little hard some times, especially in the 12p guns, but that's the path, for the good and for the bad (although the good side of this kit is very nice and enjoyable, and the cannons is the only difficulty I had so far).

So I decided to make a break from the 3d print because mainly I had problem with the last cannons and also because I missed the work on the ship.

I fixed the cables to their positions:

:



And then I painted black the silicone and the cables of the middle deck.
The good surprise at this stage was the fact that even unpainted I couldn't see the cables even under this DIY lamp which is around 50 watts:

I imagine, painted will be even more difficult to be seen from the tiny gun ports with the cannons fitted in.

Well, its time finally to glue the rest pieces of the first plank:


Here I decided to trim the edges of the frames because from the dry fitting I did the other day I realized that they wont match the necessary positions on the decks, and also they will not be seen at the end because of the gunwales:

However I thought to left the first frame's edges uncut. Well, just for the moment. Maybe it's the wine's fault, but as soon as I grab the blade I forgot about that detail. Nothing is lost since it will not be seen....


At the next stage, I think I found another tiny detailed mistake at the kit:

At the plan we see the part 40 is going forward and the part 41 after. Also the part 40 is bigger (at the plan) than the part 41.
If we dry fit these two parts, we observe that the part 41 is bigger than 40 and they don't fit very nice.

I tried to reverse the order and place the bigger part (41) at the bow as the plan indicates and this much smoother result came:


At the end I think it's just a tiny error at the plan numbering.

Thank you for your time!!!

 

[IoannisK]

Hello everyone!!!
Sooner this time since I managed to proceed with the first planking.
I completed entirely the one side and from the second I completed from the lower gun deck and above:




The "planking" is relative uneven and rough but for that reason the designer has the second planking glued at 1 mm cardboard. I imagine it will be much smoother.
Again, a little mistake at the parts numbering/indication:


Both sides are indicated with the letter L instead of L and P. However the parts are symmetrical.


Now, some thoughts. My initial plan was to complete the planking, to paint it with airbrush (much smoother effects than brushes) and then proceed with the details. This is the reason I haven't glue yet the details on the deck, and also the main deck. I will find hard to proper cover all these little details to protect them from the airbrushing. Of course the designer's plans saying a little different order. So this change of order requires a lot of study on the plans, on the details and the parts if I want to achieve a decent result.

One of the details that are meant to glued before the planking is the gallery, starting from this plan with the parts 47, 65, 76, 77, 78 (with red marker I paint the parts I already glued so I don't get lost/confused) :


Well the part 65 is the last part of the main deck:


And my thought is that since there is another part over the white area:


I can cut the part 65, glue the white part, complete the gallery at normal order after the second planking, and paint them together. In that way I can preserve the deck and complete the external area of the ship. As for the part with the planks imitation, I will glue it when the time comes to glue the entire main deck.

At least, that's my thought for the moment, probably there is a better way I haven't found it yet.

Thank you for your time!!!

 

[Martin555.]

Hi Ioannisk,
She is really taking shape now.
Excellent work.
Keep it up.

 

[IoannisK]

Thank you!!!
Hello everyone!!!
It's been a long time since my last post, mainly because obligations kept me away and secondly because I had hard time thinking about the airbrush and the possibility of whether or not I had to paint the paper or the cardboard. Specifically, so far the paint is much better on the cardboard than the paper and my initial thought was to remove the paper from the main planking and paint the cardboard. However some time I thought that with the airbrush maybe the paper comes much better that it came with the brush. But at the end I decided to not keep the paper because with pure cardboard it will be more even.
So from the next days I will start the last planking.

Well, I already have some photos from a side mission.
First, a photo from the cables before I close the hull:


As for the side mission, I don't have yet airbrush and I thought to make the boats until I buy one. So that's the boat's keel (painted) and deck:

I didn't like the way the boats are made so I took a little freedom. I created another piece of (well... I don't know how it's called, the inside part of the planking) the deck-y part which is shown at the corner:

I took strips 2 mm x 0.5 mm and glued them:

I sanded them:

And with a knife I scratched the planks at the joints to make them seem like.... planks (see the difference between the photos) :


Then I painted sand yellow the planks and flat yellow the gratings :



At last, images from the rest of the construction:



Thank you for your time!!!!

 

[IoannisK]

It's been a long time again, but because there was a time consuming work to be done.

More details:
I painted black the interior of the gallery and added the very inner pieces:


FINALLY it's time to add the main planking pieces.
First I numbered every gun port piece I have to cut. The reason for this is to know where every piece goes later when I seal temporary the gun ports before the airbrushing. (I don't want to paint again the carriages or the interior):


After, I removed the white pieces that hadn't glue and I re-glued them. It's important these areas to glue as best as they can. Parallel I unglued the yellow and black areas that were close to the white. This is because the yellow and black will be removed before the painting:


In the process I found two minor mistakes. The piece 87p has no color:

And these pieces don't have the same port detail (well, I can add during the painting process):


Also (well this might be my mistake but I don't know) I had to cut the following piece in order to fit the two forward gun ports:



This is the progress so far, with the cannons and the main deck dry fitted:


Have a nice evening!!!
John

 

[Martin555.]

It's been a long time again, but because there was a time consuming work to be done.

More details:
I painted black the interior of the gallery and added the very inner pieces:
View attachment 339194View attachment 339195View attachment 339196

FINALLY it's time to add the main planking pieces.
First I numbered every gun port piece I have to cut. The reason for this is to know where every piece goes later when I seal temporary the gun ports before the airbrushing. (I don't want to paint again the carriages or the interior):
View attachment 339198View attachment 339199

After, I removed the white pieces that hadn't glue and I re-glued them. It's important these areas to glue as best as they can. Parallel I unglued the yellow and black areas that were close to the white. This is because the yellow and black will be removed before the painting:
View attachment 339202

In the process I found two minor mistakes. The piece 87p has no color:
View attachment 339203
And these pieces don't have the same port detail (well, I can add during the painting process):
View attachment 339204

Also (well this might be my mistake but I don't know) I had to cut the following piece in order to fit the two forward gun ports:

View attachment 339205

This is the progress so far, with the cannons and the main deck dry fitted:
View attachment 339206View attachment 339207View attachment 339208

Have a nice evening!!!
John

Hi IoannisK'
Great work.
Keep it up.

 

[Uwek]

Hello everyone!!

I decided to begin my HMS Victory from paper, well actually my first HMS Victory, i want to make two of them eventually since i like very much this ship and i would like to decorate both my house and my father's.

So let's begin!! These two photos are from the first dry fitting:
View attachment 329682


View attachment 329683

So far nothing strange, with no difficulties except the cutting of 3 cardboards 70 x 50 cm 1mm.
So after the tests, i glued the parts.

At the next stage, when glueing the sceleton of the mirror, i found the first mistake of the kit. Minor mistake since nothing will be seen, but i decided to fix it: At the keel plan, the parts are shown exactly as is. But at the detailed view of the mirror, the keel is shown with the same cut as the pieces H1 H2 H3.
View attachment 329684
i did managed to fix it and it was the first tricky part of the project.
View attachment 329685

And the final result:
View attachment 329686

For this ship there are no many finished build logs online, but i found a good one at youtube. In that video, the internal parts of the ship that are shown from the cannon holes, are painted black, and i decided to copy the idea. I make a copy from the necessary parts and cut them to dry fit.
View attachment 329687
In the process i found that a specific part had an issue with the frame next to it. the result was this little gap which of cource its not important at last since its gonna fixed but...

View attachment 329688
In any other potition of the part 45l the frame was going at the center of the cannon hole wich i dont want:
View attachment 329689

The same issue exists and the top cannon deck but there dont cause issue since the frame doesnt reach the hole:
View attachment 329690
After that, i began the painting. I have to say i did two little mistakes here. I paint too high two specific frames and i lost the trace of the position of the four deck supports. At the stern side:
View attachment 329692

I start to place the supports but i didnt like the triangle-ish shape:
View attachment 329694

So with a piece of thread i made a "ruler" and i found that i had glue wrong the first piece:
View attachment 329695

and at the bow side the correct thing to do was to glue the frame reverse from the beggining , with the paper facing the stern instead of the bow, but thankfully i had the keel and it was easy to find the correct place.
View attachment 329693

Finally the result:
View attachment 329697View attachment 329698

The last detail for now, again at the mirror i cut these pieces according to the plan:
View attachment 329706View attachment 329707

So now i have the difficult work to cut 54 (maybe more if i forgot some) carriages for the lower gun decks....
Thank you,
John

Hallo @IoannisK
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY

 

[Anthony53]

Hello everyone!!

I decided to begin my HMS Victory from paper, well actually my first HMS Victory, i want to make two of them eventually since i like very much this ship and i would like to decorate both my house and my father's.

So let's begin!! These two photos are from the first dry fitting:
View attachment 329682


View attachment 329683

So far nothing strange, with no difficulties except the cutting of 3 cardboards 70 x 50 cm 1mm.
So after the tests, i glued the parts.

At the next stage, when glueing the sceleton of the mirror, i found the first mistake of the kit. Minor mistake since nothing will be seen, but i decided to fix it: At the keel plan, the parts are shown exactly as is. But at the detailed view of the mirror, the keel is shown with the same cut as the pieces H1 H2 H3.
View attachment 329684
i did managed to fix it and it was the first tricky part of the project.
View attachment 329685

And the final result:
View attachment 329686

For this ship there are no many finished build logs online, but i found a good one at youtube. In that video, the internal parts of the ship that are shown from the cannon holes, are painted black, and i decided to copy the idea. I make a copy from the necessary parts and cut them to dry fit.
View attachment 329687
In the process i found that a specific part had an issue with the frame next to it. the result was this little gap which of cource its not important at last since its gonna fixed but...

View attachment 329688
In any other potition of the part 45l the frame was going at the center of the cannon hole wich i dont want:
View attachment 329689

The same issue exists and the top cannon deck but there dont cause issue since the frame doesnt reach the hole:
View attachment 329690
After that, i began the painting. I have to say i did two little mistakes here. I paint too high two specific frames and i lost the trace of the position of the four deck supports. At the stern side:
View attachment 329692

I start to place the supports but i didnt like the triangle-ish shape:
View attachment 329694

So with a piece of thread i made a "ruler" and i found that i had glue wrong the first piece:
View attachment 329695

and at the bow side the correct thing to do was to glue the frame reverse from the beggining , with the paper facing the stern instead of the bow, but thankfully i had the keel and it was easy to find the correct place.
View attachment 329693

Finally the result:
View attachment 329697View attachment 329698

The last detail for now, again at the mirror i cut these pieces according to the plan:
View attachment 329706View attachment 329707

So now i have the difficult work to cut 54 (maybe more if i forgot some) carriages for the lower gun decks....
Thank you,
John

Why does this Model not come with a pre cut laser frame like on other Shipyard model kits

 

[ubjs]

Shipyard seems to have at least three different types of ship kits, wood, wood and cardboard, cardboard.
Victory is only available as a cardboard model from Shipyard.
I have ordered a copy and thought to take photos and show in another thread here on the forum what the kit contains.
Shipyard sells various extra kits for Victory, see the link.

HMS Victory 1765

model-shipyard.com

 

[Anthony53]

Why don't they do a pre cut laser frame to go with the kit like they do for there other models

 

[IoannisK]

Why don't they do a pre cut laser frame to go with the kit like they do for there other models

This is a really nice question, but I dont know the answer. However there is a Polish (if i'm not wrong) company, GPM that produces laser cuts for this kit. I wanted to order some years ago, but for various reasons i ended up not doing it, so i cannot comment on quality.

 

[IoannisK]

Hello again fellow modelers!!!!

Its been almost four years since my last post here, life had plans for me, but I never considered the project abandoned or failed. The truth is, i did some very slow steps in this time, which i would like to present here. Also I hope I'll be able to post more updates in the next weeks.

Alright, to the model!
So, i added the missing plank pieces, and started painting the yellow. Then i masked the yellow and painted the black. Unfortunately, what i couldn't predict due to my inexperience, was the fact that the masking tape would take apart parts of the color. In the end the hull ended up like this:




Obviously this was far from the desired, and I still have will to make the best result I can!
So, taking a new copy of the planking (remember, I bought the kit, but I don't use the kit's parts, I copy them), and separated the parts by color, even if a part had both yellow and black on it, I took the care to carefully cut them off like in the following example:



And I also added various details (I believe they called bulwarks? my time away from the hobby made my brain weaker) on the parts, since they could painted accordingly. An example of the result is the next image:



At the end, I glued very carefully all the pieces on the ship. The two next images are the before and after the operation.





I apology for the glue's gloss effect, but with naked eye is almost invisible.


Then I had to add details like the steps, which couldn't glue like I glued the bulwarks. In order to find where exactly I had to place them, took another copy of the plank, cut out the positions of each step, and with a pencil i placed some small marks:

And after I painted accordingly, it was very easy to glue them.



At the end, (actually today's photo, painting is ended yesterday) I painted the missing red. This is the current state of the ship (again, I apology for the gloss):



And this is the part that I have photos.

Other than this, I also made progress on other parts:
1. painted all the necessary cannon barrels using Vallejo 77.720 Gunmetal Grey (metal color)
2. ordered carriages 3d printed (the design I shared in this thread) with resin printer, so they are much better shaped than the ones I printed with my filament one
3. painted the carriages
4. ordered and assembled the rigging blocks for the cannons. For these I decided to use Shipyard's cardboard ones, since they were more affordable and they won't get tensions they could lead to break/deform. They ended up very good.

I do not have pictures from all of these, because at the time I write this I have ordered a +10 close up filter for my dslr, and I hope it will produce good enough images, since my current lenses can't really take these details well.


Till the next time, thank you for your time!!!!
John



Edit:
I might have said it before, but I'd like to add a disclaimer regarding the colors. I totally understand that they aren't the original ones and they lack fidelity, but I liked very much the vibrant colors when I first introduced to this specific kit, which led me to the decision to try a "middle ground". Not extremely far from the original ones, but also not very close. For the yellow I used Vallejo's yellow ochre 70.913 and for the red I used vermillion 70.909.