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Layout for copper plates

Stuart Little said:
That's interesting, over here I buy BSI @ 1/2oz gap filling is = $11.52, & 1oz thin =$18.99. Probably due to 'The Creature' running - or should that be 'ruining', the country??
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I was quoting the 1oz so about the same price plus taxes. Almost 10 percent here in California
 
Ted Robinson said:
I don't know how to lay out for the copper plates. All the models I've seen show the copper plates parallel to the keel and waterlines but following a rounded contour in the middle.
How do I know how many rows to go parallel to the keel before transitioning to the curved rows. How much curve, etc.
Most of the beginner books I purchased don't mention the plates and to one that does says to follow the plating diagram on the plans
Of course, my plans for have this.
Could someone direct me to a source where I can learn how to do the layout
Thank you,
Ted
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There is a pattern for the plates. The size of the sections vary depending on the size of the ship. The measurement of the sections seems to be arbitrary. This book describes it pretty good. I have a couple videos on my You tube channel where I show how I apply this. @gregbaumgartner8257.

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threebs said:
There is a pattern for the plates. The size of the sections vary depending on the size of the ship. The measurement of the sections seems to be arbitrary. This book describes it pretty good. I have a couple videos on my You tube channel where I show how I apply this. @gregbaumgartner8257.

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Thank you. I've been enjoying your videos.
So far just working through the list as they come but will search out the plating videos when the Super Phatic glue gets here.
I've been making hooks while I watch the videos. No real consistency but have made about 50 so far. What ll pick and choose when the time comes. I suspect,I'll get better and more consistent with practice.17500160204935333379166026916238.jpg

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I glued one plate with the Super Phatic glue and it is holding better than the ca.
After only five minutes I tried prying up a corner of the plate and the remainder of the plate remained adhered to the wood rather than popping off. This looks like a great product for this task. Water cleanable until cured.17500300185701132394071905988470.jpg
 
The super Phatic glue is really thin and the plates float around when I'm installing them. I have started putting a dot of CA on all four corners and one in the center of the plate. This locks in place. Making a pool of the glue on a bottle cap allows the SP glue to thicken and gives a thicker coating the back of the plate. All in all I think the end product is straighter and looks better than before
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Ted Robinson said:
I was quoting the 1oz so about the same price plus taxes. Almost 10 percent here in CalifornThose
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Ted Robinson said:
I was quoting the 1oz so about the same price plus taxes. Almost 10 percent here in California
Click to expand...
Those UK prices include 20% VAT ! So amazingly it's cheaper over here. Only the 1/2oz bottles of medium are available, but it's enough to do my Victory, 2 or three drops per plate. Standard viscosity CA is not recommended.
 
Stuart Little said:
Victory is my first 'hull-plate' build, previously I used copper tape. Once I got started, I quite enjoyed the 'labour', it's like miniature brick laying!
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I have developed a procedure where I use the Super Aliphatic glue in the back of the copper plates. They float around and don't hold using this glue by itself so I put a small drop of CA glue at each corner and the center of the plate.
I'm going through a lot of this glue so will be ordering a 4oz bottle from Model Ship ways for the same price.
 
Ted Robinson said:
I have developed a procedure where I use the Super Aliphatic glue in the back of the copper plates. They float around and don't hold using this glue by itself so I put a small drop of CA glue at each corner and the center of the plate.
I'm going through a lot of this glue so will be ordering a 4oz bottle from Model Ship ways for the same price.
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If you really want 4 oz, I would recommend getting 2 of the 2 oz or even 4 of the 1 oz bottles. That way if you have the open one harden on you, you still have others. :) Also the smaller bottles are easier to handle and maneuver . :)
 
Corsair said:
If you really want 4 oz, I would recommend getting 2 of the 2 oz or even 4 of the 1 oz bottles. That way if you have the open one harden on you, you still have others. :) Also the smaller bottles are easier to handle and maneuver . :)
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Ok, makes sense
 
I'm reusing the tiles previously removed because Im afraid I'll runs short if I don't.
Have sent several emails to Caldercraft/Jokita but no response. In fact they have never responded to any of my messages. Are they still in business IMG20250618113358.jpg
 
Ted sorry for the slow response, but I bought a two ounce bottle and had very little left, so bought another, I finished the copper then for what ever reason I shelfed the Pegasus and built a Duchess of the Kingston, and still have half a bottle.
Don't know anything about Caldercraft.
Bobby K ‼️
 
How even and solid is your substrate? CA will hold copper to smooth wood quite well but an uneven surface or dusty crumbly filler will degrade the bond.

EDIT: Oops. I answered an earlier post in the thread by mistake.
 
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