We used to use them as doorstops at my parents house in Maine.
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HMS Agamemnon by Caldercraft
- Thread starter HMSFly
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- agamemnon caldercraft
I smiled when I saw that photo! I had one my plebe year and promptly burned a hole in one of my khaki shirts. Made a good paper weight after that.
Allan
SURPRISE--- important error in the drawings !!!!!!
There we go again!
One of the next steps was gluing the Stern support frames, numbered 27 and 28 on the plan: see drawing.
If you follow the reference numbers shown on the layout plan for the basic support plywood boards, you'll be making a big mistake. There's a mismatch between numbers 27 and 28!
Numbers 27 are each the same size, but not as shown on the reference plan!
After all, the supports with number 27 are the largest and need to be glued in the center. Number 28 is on the outside and at an angle!
One 27 and one 28 are reversed!
I didn't notice it at first, but if you look further at the plans, you'll see that a height difference is causing number 27 to protrude slightly beyond the other 27. I was just able to pull them out before the glue dried and figure it out!
Just like the Caldercraft Diana's building plan, there are errors again! So I've been warned and will triple-check everything!
I meanwhile glued the false Gun Supports in place....
There we go again!
One of the next steps was gluing the Stern support frames, numbered 27 and 28 on the plan: see drawing.
If you follow the reference numbers shown on the layout plan for the basic support plywood boards, you'll be making a big mistake. There's a mismatch between numbers 27 and 28!
Numbers 27 are each the same size, but not as shown on the reference plan!
After all, the supports with number 27 are the largest and need to be glued in the center. Number 28 is on the outside and at an angle!
One 27 and one 28 are reversed!
I didn't notice it at first, but if you look further at the plans, you'll see that a height difference is causing number 27 to protrude slightly beyond the other 27. I was just able to pull them out before the glue dried and figure it out!
Just like the Caldercraft Diana's building plan, there are errors again! So I've been warned and will triple-check everything!
I meanwhile glued the false Gun Supports in place....
Good find Marc.SURPRISE--- important error in the drawings !!!!!!
There we go again!
One of the next steps was gluing the Stern support frames, numbered 27 and 28 on the plan: see drawing.
If you follow the reference numbers shown on the layout plan for the basic support plywood boards, you'll be making a big mistake. There's a mismatch between numbers 27 and 28!
Numbers 27 are each the same size, but not as shown on the reference plan!
After all, the supports with number 27 are the largest and need to be glued in the center. Number 28 is on the outside and at an angle!
One 27 and one 28 are reversed!
I didn't notice it at first, but if you look further at the plans, you'll see that a height difference is causing number 27 to protrude slightly beyond the other 27. I was just able to pull them out before the glue dried and figure it out!
Just like the Caldercraft Diana's building plan, there are errors again! So I've been warned and will triple-check everything!
I meanwhile glued the false Gun Supports in place....
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It looks like piece 28 is the larger one and should be on the outside positions as you have done.
Good detective work. Thanks for warning others.
Michael
Hi MarcSURPRISE--- important error in the drawings !!!!!!
There we go again!
One of the next steps was gluing the Stern support frames, numbered 27 and 28 on the plan: see drawing.
If you follow the reference numbers shown on the layout plan for the basic support plywood boards, you'll be making a big mistake. There's a mismatch between numbers 27 and 28!
Numbers 27 are each the same size, but not as shown on the reference plan!
After all, the supports with number 27 are the largest and need to be glued in the center. Number 28 is on the outside and at an angle!
One 27 and one 28 are reversed!
I didn't notice it at first, but if you look further at the plans, you'll see that a height difference is causing number 27 to protrude slightly beyond the other 27. I was just able to pull them out before the glue dried and figure it out!
Just like the Caldercraft Diana's building plan, there are errors again! So I've been warned and will triple-check everything!
I meanwhile glued the false Gun Supports in place....
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I've just finished catching up with your new build, another great choice. I'll be following your progress with great interest.
Tony
Hi Tony,
How are you? How's the Constitution going?
Looks like I'm winning the naval battle, huh? (number of ships..
.)Cheers
Your Marc
Unfortunately, dear Allan, this model was designed by Chris Watton again, and therefore is doomed from the start. Both several years ago and today, Chris stubbornly makes the same mistakes, and he does not even try to make his models more or less copy-like and reliable. Chris Watton has sold many of his designs to European scale model makers, he is little known in the US, but here in Europe we know his work well. He does a blatant hack job. He always has the wrong frames. He always has the wrong aft gallery windows. He always has the wrong deck heights and deck element locations.
He always shows the wrong gun ports, the bow bulkhead, his latrine is a slap in the face of historical accuracy, and the hatches and windlasses are a mockery of modelers.
But, even if we can still fix the height of the decks, as well as adjust the aft gallery or the forward bulkhead, and even more so replace all the small stuff on the decks, a grand failure still awaits us ahead.
This failure is Chris Wotton's complete ignorance and misunderstanding of the spars and rigging. Dear Allan, you have no idea how crazy, hospital-worthy, the spars and rigging on this model are.
We only need to look at the official data and compare it with Chris Wotton's fantasies in this model to tear our hair out (Russian designation of horror and despair, haha). Unfortunately, the Agamemnon model is complete nonsense and does not have an ounce of copyability and authenticity.
I wouldn't advise anyone to spend such a high price on this box of wooden junk. It's easier to download the plans from the Internet, especially since it's not a problem now, and make a model from scratch, it will be cheaper and, hahaha, more accurate!
It's winter here and very cold in the dockyard (garage) so progress is slow. I'm making the yards at the moment and will post some photos when finished.Hi Tony,
How are you? How's the Constitution going?
Looks like I'm winning the naval battle, huh? (number of ships..
Cheers
Your Marc
Even if I was to work 24/7 on my ship I could not build as quick as you, but it saves me lots of cash.
Tony
Dear Iutar, dear Allan
May I express my honest opinion, without intending to discredit anyone?
I hesitated for a long time before purchasing the kit. I actually wanted to start with building plans: this involved the purchase of an (expensive) milling machine...and when I calculated the purchase of materials, etc., I arrived at the price of the kit.
I have to admit that the kit is far too expensive compared to the materials provided. The thick plywood was poorly cut, and some beams were damaged.
Some part broken....
Regarding the adjust of the Aft Gallery:
Iutar is right. Yesterday I removed the already glued "after stern Bulwarks" (hours with a very fine saw and utility knife) because I couldn't get it all positioned correctly (it was too high to properly position the decks). Then I spent an hour filing and sanding them, and then glued them back on. And then I had to saw off some sections...see photo. It's fine now but.....
May I express my honest opinion, without intending to discredit anyone?
I hesitated for a long time before purchasing the kit. I actually wanted to start with building plans: this involved the purchase of an (expensive) milling machine...and when I calculated the purchase of materials, etc., I arrived at the price of the kit.
I have to admit that the kit is far too expensive compared to the materials provided. The thick plywood was poorly cut, and some beams were damaged.
Some part broken....
Regarding the adjust of the Aft Gallery:
Iutar is right. Yesterday I removed the already glued "after stern Bulwarks" (hours with a very fine saw and utility knife) because I couldn't get it all positioned correctly (it was too high to properly position the decks). Then I spent an hour filing and sanding them, and then glued them back on. And then I had to saw off some sections...see photo. It's fine now but.....
And now for the bottom gun deck. There was no way to fit the bottom gun deck in its entirety. So I cut the deck in half. To hide the seam, I made sure a strip extended 2 mm beyond the cut edge...so I could slide the second half in seamlessly later.
Lovely progress Marc
Dear Fly! There were no planks with joints between the hatches. Why lay pieces of wood if you can lay a whole plank? The principle of sound logic and technical perfection is at work here. Short pieces and splinters will break quickly. And why put short boards, because there are plenty of normal boards at the shipyard?!
No planks were spared for the deck. We have already discussed this on Diana.
You have shown the joints in other places incorrectly. You should have found a drawing of the deck beams. But if there is no drawing, the beams can always be calculated by the hatches: the hatch coamings were always laid on the beams. The joints of the boards had to lie on the red lines.
The deck is half the impression of the model. You can't rush here. It's not too late to fix it.
No planks were spared for the deck. We have already discussed this on Diana.
You have shown the joints in other places incorrectly. You should have found a drawing of the deck beams. But if there is no drawing, the beams can always be calculated by the hatches: the hatch coamings were always laid on the beams. The joints of the boards had to lie on the red lines.
The deck is half the impression of the model. You can't rush here. It's not too late to fix it.
As you glue the deck planks onto a flat sheet, is there any problem with the planking separating when you bend it to meet the rounding needed and glue it in place? The rounding of the decks on Agamemnon was from 4 1/2 inches for the gun deck to 7 1/2 inches for the upper deck and quarterdeck so a lot of curvature. At scale and spread across many deck planks I am guessing nothing cracks/separates but I am curious as the rounding is as much as 3mm at 1:64 scale.
Thanks Marc
Allan
Thanks Marc
Allan
Just did some calculations using planks that are 3X10 and the gap created if spread evenly across 30 or so strakes is of no consequence. Even if only a few crack open I doubt they will be noticeable as any gap created would be so tiny. Still, I am curious.