I believe the kit is 1/24, and there is a 1/12 kit too, larger pieces are easier to work. The kit is about 10 inches, the larger kit is 15 inches (lengyh)
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In any case, I'm working on the Norwegian Pram too. Broke the center piece twice, the rudder three times, ready to fair the ribs. A lot of repair practice.
You did a great job on your Dory
You did a great job on your Dory
After finishing the third model of Midwest's beginner series, I am contemplating the New York Harbor Boat.
While waiting on the Norwegian Pram.
I broke the rudder assembly three times. This is the finished repair, waiting for sanding and repainting. After painting I don't think the repair will be so obvious.
Repaired rudder, broken 3 times, for the Norwegian Pram. It seems that when working with Balsa, attention must be paid to the grain. it's easy to snap.
With thin pieces you can put some CA on them to strengthen the wood.
Never thought of that, will try it. There are some things that I think are too short...rudder hinges. I think I'll hit up the hobby shop for some brass sheets and make my own. Thanks!
The hinges are very finicky. I found that soldering the pins using silver solder into them worked best. If you get brass, you should anneal it by putting it into a fire until it turns red and then let it cool. It will be much easier to shape and cut.
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Did that, going to try soldering.
for the rigging would you use clinch knots?
Got the hinges for the rudder on using Testor's metal glue. Rudder is on but looks like it is stored battered.
Now putting the mast in
Nice job! What's evident is your commitment to getting the details right. Ship modeling is an exercise in making one tiny part at a time and then assembling them and you've got that skill down pat.
Just to add to what others have said, a few answers to your questions:
Shellac is wonderful stuff. It soaks into the wood and eliminates further "five o'clock shadow" on your surfaces. (That's the first time I've heard that term and it's the best description I've heard yet!
) Shellac thins with alcohol. I buy Zinsser's Bull's Eye brand in the can from the hardware store. If you recap the can tightly, it lasts a long time and if it thickens, just add more denatured alcohol to the mix.) One coat is all it takes to seal the wood. Unlike other primer coatings, especially the ones that are synthetic based, everything sticks to shellac. As mentioned above, it pays to seal your parts before assembly.
You're right about preferring oil-based paints. Acrylics have their place, I suppose, but I haven't really found it yet. Others claim to have, though. I prefer to use quality tubed artists' oils, conditioned as required. (A drop or two of Japan drier is required or they'll take forever to dry.) They have a much longer shelf life than the overpriced one- or two-ounce bottles of pre-thinned "model paint" sold for modeling use, which needs conditioning, as well. Don't believe that "ready to use right out of the bottle" hype.
If you want your bottom plank seams to show, you don't have to make individual planks. Before you paint, you can just score the surface of the bottom by running a scratch awl or the like along a straight edge to leave a fine indented line. When people complement you on your fine planking job, you don't have to tell them your secret.
Looking at your photos, my hunch is that the "shortness" of your thwarts isn't the result of your frames being too wide, but perhaps is the result of your stringers upon which the thwarts rest being a bit high. If they were a smidgen lower, the thwarts should be just right.
It looks like you are on your way to ever greater accomplishments. Your previous manual arts training has stood you in good stead.
Just to add to what others have said, a few answers to your questions:
Shellac is wonderful stuff. It soaks into the wood and eliminates further "five o'clock shadow" on your surfaces. (That's the first time I've heard that term and it's the best description I've heard yet!
) Shellac thins with alcohol. I buy Zinsser's Bull's Eye brand in the can from the hardware store. If you recap the can tightly, it lasts a long time and if it thickens, just add more denatured alcohol to the mix.) One coat is all it takes to seal the wood. Unlike other primer coatings, especially the ones that are synthetic based, everything sticks to shellac. As mentioned above, it pays to seal your parts before assembly.You're right about preferring oil-based paints. Acrylics have their place, I suppose, but I haven't really found it yet. Others claim to have, though. I prefer to use quality tubed artists' oils, conditioned as required. (A drop or two of Japan drier is required or they'll take forever to dry.) They have a much longer shelf life than the overpriced one- or two-ounce bottles of pre-thinned "model paint" sold for modeling use, which needs conditioning, as well. Don't believe that "ready to use right out of the bottle" hype.
If you want your bottom plank seams to show, you don't have to make individual planks. Before you paint, you can just score the surface of the bottom by running a scratch awl or the like along a straight edge to leave a fine indented line. When people complement you on your fine planking job, you don't have to tell them your secret.
Looking at your photos, my hunch is that the "shortness" of your thwarts isn't the result of your frames being too wide, but perhaps is the result of your stringers upon which the thwarts rest being a bit high. If they were a smidgen lower, the thwarts should be just right.
It looks like you are on your way to ever greater accomplishments. Your previous manual arts training has stood you in good stead.
Having trouble with the kit hinges, they are too small. This hinge should be long enough. I saw a Pram at Hyannis Harbour and it had the long straps, unlike those in the kit. First pix is of the new hinge, other side glued, this side to be glued. Next step is to drill for the mounting hardware. The second pick is of the upper bracket. This rudder is turning out to be quite a pain for me. These kits are learning experiences though and believe me, that is what they are.
The brass pieces in the photo are from the brass plate the photo etched parts came from, I cut it up to make the longer straps. The glue is really hoding on the upper hinge so I may just leave it as is rather than risk breaking it, could probably release it using alcohol.
The brass pieces in the photo are from the brass plate the photo etched parts came from, I cut it up to make the longer straps. The glue is really hoding on the upper hinge so I may just leave it as is rather than risk breaking it, could probably release it using alcohol.
OK, the drill bits used with my model drill won.t cut into brass. What do you all use to drill the brass? have not tried the Dremel yet.
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I use HSS drill bits. HSS stand for high speed steel; a heat treated alloy steel. Using this type of bit it helps to first center punch the hole. The resulting little dimple seats the drill bits.
Roger
Roger
Make sure you anneal the brass to make it easier to drill into. Heat it until it turns red and let it cool.
Rob
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I don’t anneal any of the brass that I work with and I am presently scratch building ALL of the fittings for a Great Lakes steamship using hard or half hard brass. An advantage of this material is that it provides clean crisp shapes and I don’t want to distort it by heating. Drills go through this stuff like it’s butter.
Check the drill that you are using under magnification to ensure that it isn’t broken or dull.
Roger
Check the drill that you are using under magnification to ensure that it isn’t broken or dull.
Roger