I have 3/32 rails to install after bending, it was suggested to use steam to soften these...would soaking in boiling water work as well?
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Yes, heat is heat. Water boils at 212F. Steam from boiling water is also at 212F.
Roger
Roger
Hot water works well. What I find also helpful is to rub some regular windex (that has ammonia) on it and let it soak in for a few minutes. I find the ammonia really helps with the flexibility of the wood.
Rob
Rob
z
Ok, thanks for that. Since the "Boss" is going out today I will snitch some of her Windex, and heat water in her kitchen, which she is overly protective of, and get on with it.
Thank you for the tips Rob444. Successfully bent the 3 3/4 railings, using Windex and hot water' and had it done before the "Boss" returned! Waiting for it to dry.
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first two pictures shoe railing bent to shape but not glued yet.
Last pic shows the messed up stern. I sawed the planks at the stern fron the deck to the keels, messing them up. I think some filler will correct this error.
Deck shot with rails bent and glued on
Last pic shows the messed up stern. I sawed the planks at the stern fron the deck to the keels, messing them up. I think some filler will correct this error.
Deck shot with rails bent and glued on
Cockpit and cabin trial fit, not glue in, bending went better than expected.
Super structure done, needs sanding, using Model Light white filler on deck cabin and hull planking. Questions, when using the filler do you put it on dry from the container or put it on wet? I put it on dry, and it will need a second coat of filler, do you just sand and recover? Once done and sanded, do you seal it prior to painting?
On a second note, disaster was averted when I caught my son headed into the bathroom with the lobster smack, he wanted to see if it would float!!! I sounded just like my own father..."Son, what's WRONGGGG with you". Something I had promised I would never say to my own son because Dad was always asking me the same thing. (I hated that!)
On a second note, disaster was averted when I caught my son headed into the bathroom with the lobster smack, he wanted to see if it would float!!! I sounded just like my own father..."Son, what's WRONGGGG with you". Something I had promised I would never say to my own son because Dad was always asking me the same thing. (I hated that!)
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I think one of the mistakes I made was in not soaking the planks long enough in boiling water. If I had more patience I think they would have gone on better.
I fooled around with the wood filler and found it too dry, adding water and stirring was much better and a lot easier to work. Have to get some fine sandpaper for final prep prior to painting. What grade sand paper for final sanding prior to painting?
I fooled around with the wood filler and found it too dry, adding water and stirring was much better and a lot easier to work. Have to get some fine sandpaper for final prep prior to painting. What grade sand paper for final sanding prior to painting?
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Looking ahead, what would be a good project for a newbie who has done Mid Wests trio for beginners, not a warship and about 24 inches at least in length? Sczle of about 1/12? And not overly complicated?
I messed up the beak. I had some rubber contCt cement spilled on it ans tried scraping it off with my Exacto. I took too much off so the beak didn,t align properly. Glued some scrap balsa on it to build the stem back up, we'll see if that works. I added filler at first with my fingers, need to put it on with a spatula, will have to add more filler , I also failed to mix enough water. After the beak repair is finished, I willredo the filler. Two more newbie mistakes!
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With the filler, I find using several light "coats" letting the previous coat dry seems to work better than just putting on a single thick layer.
Right on, too impatient sometimes. The beak is glue in, the bow sprit is next, at least tie will fir properly.
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I believe I spent as much time repairing and replacing as I did building. Still ended up with a decent model, and I created some new words.
Same here,I'm on the Chesapeake Bay Lobster Smack. and it seems like repairing goofs and breaks takes longer than the build. My wife charges me a dollar for every cuss word too.
I think the beak will be presentable after painting. I have tried differing glues, and have come to the conclusion that yellow PVA is best for these
models. Most of the problems started when I broke the stern frame work, that repair was a royal pain and I am not sure everything lined up
properly afterwards. I also think that the planking was not allowed enough time to become flexible enough in hot water, and I used the hottest water I could get from the tap, but now wish I had used boiling water instead. I used glues I had on hand instead of purchasing PVA, that resulted in set up times, clampimg issues and holding issues. I went to my local hoppy shop and purchased a bottle Evergreen yellow wood glue, enough for several more kits! and it works great!
models. Most of the problems started when I broke the stern frame work, that repair was a royal pain and I am not sure everything lined upproperly afterwards. I also think that the planking was not allowed enough time to become flexible enough in hot water, and I used the hottest water I could get from the tap, but now wish I had used boiling water instead. I used glues I had on hand instead of purchasing PVA, that resulted in set up times, clampimg issues and holding issues. I went to my local hoppy shop and purchased a bottle Evergreen yellow wood glue, enough for several more kits! and it works great!
Test fitting mast, hull primed but needs a light second coat.
I miss oil based paint! Painting is not my forte. I hate acrylic paints.
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