Yes, point taken ;-)Place them on waxed paper first, though.
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Wow Richard this is tiny. IO have pulled up a chair. Good luck and enjoy. CHeers Grant
Hope it's worth it. It seems to get bigger as you work on it.
Until there is rigging, if there is any.
Blocks and scaled rope at 1:160---yikes! For that it may be a good idea to consult books by the gurus of micro ship models like McCaffery, McNarry, et al.Allan
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Fortunately, there is none in these kits, unless, of course, you want to add it. Even then, since there are no masts, it would primarily be gun tackle. When you consider that a 4" block at scale would be 0.025" (less than 1/32"), you would probably use ultra fine wire for the lines and blobs of glue for the blocks.Until there is rigging, if there is any.
Allan
Quite. I have seen how Philip Reed does it at 192, but would leave rigging out even if it were included as I have no knowledge at all of that area. I may add a little ironwork for the guns and the breeching line. I have a little 'Ropes of Scale' material somewhere.Until there is rigging, if there is any.
Allan
Hi Günther,
I have lots of ideas for this model but not sure how many will materialise. Things do seem larger the more you work on them, so who knows what may be possible.
I worked on far smaller objects (in metal), as a jeweller and it never occured to me they were small because the small size was their norm!!
With modelling there is a tendency to remember that you have miniaturised a much larger object which I think creates a very different mindset?
Latest update.........................
Whales, sheer strake and a few other planks added. Gunports completed. I plan to leave the starboard gunports unplanked as I like the play of the horizontal and vertical lines.
Whales, sheer strake and a few other planks added. Gunports completed. I plan to leave the starboard gunports unplanked as I like the play of the horizontal and vertical lines.
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Hey Richard,
That looks really great. Really beautiful. The processing is great. Your idea with the open planks has something. I'm still thinking about whether I should do that. But I think I'd rather leave small pieces like viewing windows open. There's something mysterious about it ... Of course, I also have ideas on how to spice up this model. I think you have to be careful not to overload it because of the size. What I would like to do are the gun hatch covers. That will really make it look a bit better ...
I look forward to your further progress.
Quick question, how are you getting on with sanding and finishing the boxwood? The pear is really resistant and I really have to make an effort when sanding it ...
That looks really great. Really beautiful. The processing is great. Your idea with the open planks has something. I'm still thinking about whether I should do that. But I think I'd rather leave small pieces like viewing windows open. There's something mysterious about it ... Of course, I also have ideas on how to spice up this model. I think you have to be careful not to overload it because of the size. What I would like to do are the gun hatch covers. That will really make it look a bit better ...
I look forward to your further progress.
Quick question, how are you getting on with sanding and finishing the boxwood? The pear is really resistant and I really have to make an effort when sanding it ...
Good morning Richard. Bravo that is beautiful. Cheers Grant
Thanks Gunther,
The port side will be planked as per normal. I'm not sure about gunport covers because the guns are on the top deck, but I agree that they would look really cool. I agree about the mysterious look of windows that 'reveal' parts of the frame. Nice.
Sanding is a real challenge. Boxwood is very hard and using constant finger pressure isn't really healthy. I have a tendency to get tennis elbow (from playing piano, not from tennis), and I can already feel the beginnings of it when I'm sanding the hull interior which is proving extremely slow and challenging..................
I imagine the technique for pearwood will be very light pressure due to the breakage risk. It's the same for the very thin boxwood.
Many thanks Grant.
Once these two enterprises are complete I'm planning to start on my first scratchbuild. I'm eyeing up the Triton cross-section on MSW, or a Granado but haven't completely decided on a scale yet. likely 1:96. Maybe even smaller.
The framing there is complete fantasy so maybe not a good choice if this kind of thing matters to you. Your call of course. If you want to be more exact maybe use the contemporary drawings of the modified Mermaid class of 28's of which Triton was a part and do your own thing. These include Triton, Greyhound, and Boreas. There is a full set of contemporary plans, including framing disposition drawing at RMG Collections that could be helpful. (See below example) They are definitely better than the framing on the MSW builds which seem to be Hahn style versus actual build style with chocks and the dimensions look wrong, especially the top timbers. There is a contract for the Aurora (28) 1776 that may not be exact for the Mermaid modified class, but will be very close, if not exact, regarding scantlings for the floors, futtocks, and top timbers of the frames as well as planking, etc. Goodwin writes that at this time the joints of the futtocks were either scarph or chock. The contract for Aurora (78) 1776 calls for 5' 11'' scarphs, but I have no idea if there were scarphs or chocks or a combination of both with chocks on the lower futtocks and a scarph to the top timbers on Triton.
Allan
Framing for Triton 1773, Boreas 1774, and Greyhound 1773
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Thank Allan,
I hadn't realised that. Yes, I would definitely want to make it as historically accurate as possible. The problem would be my lack of knowledge translating a 2D drawing into a 3D plan.
What about Peter Goodwin's book on the Granado. That has two different framing schemes. Would that be a good starting point if I did the Granado?
I hadn't realised that. Yes, I would definitely want to make it as historically accurate as possible. The problem would be my lack of knowledge translating a 2D drawing into a 3D plan.
What about Peter Goodwin's book on the Granado. That has two different framing schemes. Would that be a good starting point if I did the Granado?
I do not have that book so cannot comment. I trust Goodwin's research above many others, so unless you can find conflicting information from contemporary sources on your own, it should be fine trusting his information. I assume he used the drawing from RMG ZAZ5628 in his research. It is one of the few plans that show proposed carved works on the galleries and stern although not useful for your cross section.
Allan
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All the models/images I've seen of Enterprize 1774 only have gunport covers on on the last three aft gunports, so I don't think they would apply to this section. That said, now you've got me thinking about putting them on my stern section when I get to it.
That's really coming along well.
I received mine yesterday, but don't think I'll be as fast as you. After you mentioned the broken frames I got to 22 and thought I was doing well, then broke 2.
Did you glue the remaining frame onto the bulkheads?
Thanks
Neil
I received mine yesterday, but don't think I'll be as fast as you. After you mentioned the broken frames I got to 22 and thought I was doing well, then broke 2.
Did you glue the remaining frame onto the bulkheads?
Thanks
Neil