Artesania Latina Anatomy of Lord Nelson’s HMS Victory Trafalgar 1805

[giocomail]

Video 8 - (Complete)
Here I am again with my love/hate relationship with PhotoEtch Faccia rossa I knew this was going to be fiddly but those hinges and latches were like teaching a hippopotamus to play a banjo... challenging. Can I suggest if you are new to PE or you struggle with really tiny pieces you may wish to give those hinges a miss.
Anyway just one 'TTT' (Tony's Top Tip) for those who are going to attempt the PE. When folding the tops and bottoms of the door grilles it's best to use a PE folding tool, this will give you a crisp sharp bend. Secondly, you have to be very accurate where you fold, it MUST be right on the area where the bars meet the folded top and bottom. If you are not accurate with the bends then the grill will be to small leaving a gap, if to long then you are in big trouble. As I found out on a couple of grills if they are slightly too big then there is the tendency to force the grill into the hole. Let me tell you, these PE parts are extremely bendy, too much force and they buckle badly.

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My folding tool.

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I placed the parts in place then applied a small amount of CA at the back of each part.

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Thanks for looking.

Hi, you're doing a great job. I'm also building the same kit and I've arrived at the same point of work as you. I wanted to ask you what tools you used to bend the burnished parts that need to be put on the windows of the rooms, I have to do it too and I wouldn't want to make mistakes. Good continuation of work

 

[TonyJ]

Hi, you're doing a great job. I'm also building the same kit and I've arrived at the same point of work as you. I wanted to ask you what tools you used to bend the burnished parts that need to be put on the windows of the rooms, I have to do it too and I wouldn't want to make mistakes. Good continuation of work

Hi
Thanks for the kind words. I've attached photos of the tool. I think I got it online from a hobby store here in Australia.
You basically clamp the part where you intend to fold it then use a blade to fold the part. But remember as I said in my thread you need to be very accurate where you fold those windows. If you make them too long don't try and force them into the hole they will bend out of shape very easily.
Hope this helps.

 

[AlanOES]

Video 10 - (Part 1)
Installing the spars on the deck, then attaching the actual deck. It's been well documented by others that the finger joint approach used by AL is less than ideal. At one point I did consider attaching front right to back right, just to concentrate on getting a good join, but decided in the end that it may not give me enough wiggle room if there are alignment issues. Plus I may break the join bending the whole assemble engaging the small tabs front & rear.
I did employ some rather unusual cantilever techniques to persuade the joints to align flush. The results although not perfect were better than I hoped for.

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I used stain for these parts, intending to use it where AL 42 Dark Red Leather paint was used. However after some experimentation painting two adjacent colours (for example the two colour grates) I found I was getting bleed issues. I really don't want to buy any more paints as I have lots already, so I will mix my own brown colour from my Tamiya supply.

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Loose test fit.

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Everything OK withs masts so far. No doubt the next deck will show any issues.

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Quick peek at some of the rooms in situe.

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After much pushing up and down and wiggling this way and that, I found that if I stood on one leg put my finger in my ear and adopted some less than conventional techniques I could just about manoeuvre the fingers into a decent position.
As you may see from the image above I concentrated on the top 8 or so fingers then flooded the area with diluted wood glue, wiped off the excess and let it dry for a few hours.
Then repeated the process for the remaining fingers. Yes it's a long process but IMHO worth it.

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The deck in place.

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Very happy with the final results.

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The timbers for the inner planking painted white. I used a sample pot of house paint which gives great coverage. Once this is dry and I have a had a beer I will give them a light sand and apply a thin second coat.

Thanks for looking
Tony

Nice job Tony
That’s probably the hardest deck to align and you’ve done a great job doing it
Hope the beer was a Spitfire

 

[giocomail]

Hi
Thanks for the kind words. I've attached photos of the tool. I think I got it online from a hobby store here in Australia.
You basically clamp the part where you intend to fold it then use a blade to fold the part. But remember as I said in my thread you need to be very accurate where you fold those windows. If you make them too long don't try and force them into the hole they will bend out of shape very easily.
Hope this helps.

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Pollice in su

Thanks for the answer, I'll try to look it up, good job, I'll keep following you

 

[Magic Mike]

Tony, great patience and fit! I'm going to order the "Hold & Fold" tool. Thanks also for the data on the air brushes. Boy, do I have a lot to learn about painting! Magic Mike

 

[TonyJ]

Nice job Tony
That’s probably the hardest deck to align and you’ve done a great job doing it
Hope the beer was a Spitfire

Unfortunately not. It was a Coopers Pale Ale one of the better Aussie beers.

 

[TonyJ]

Tony, great patience and fit! I'm going to order the "Hold & Fold" tool. Thanks also for the data on the air brushes. Boy, do I have a lot to learn about painting! Magic Mike

Best of luck Mike!

 

[TonyJ]

Thanks for the answer, I'll try to look it up, good job, I'll keep following you

Glad to have you follow along. Best of luck getting the tool. There are a few different ones on the market.

 

[TonyJ]

Video 10 - (Part 2 - Complete)
The inner planking and the skirting that go around pillars are now installed, not sure what these pillars are called.
I wish I had a dollar for every cockpit or inside of an aircraft fuselage I have spent hours detailing, only for my efforts to be hidden from sight when she's buttoned up. But as us modellers say "We know it's there!"
I had the same urge when it came to the endings of the inner planking. I know that these area's will be hard to see when the next deck goes on but I had to try and improve on the video instructions. Many will say probably a waste of time but do love a challenge.


Do love a bit of masking.




Did manage to break a couple of these taking them off the spru, but it seems they gave you a couple extra.




This is how the instructions show the ends of the planking.


Note the extra packing behind the planking to help with the alignment.


I believe it was worth the effort.













Thanks for looking.
T

 

[Bryian]

That’s looking great.

 

[AlanOES]

Nice work Tony, it’s worth a bit more effort to get a better aligned planking than shown in the instruction video. Mine looked a bit better before this photo as I found I had to cut into it to position the knee correctly (video 13 I think)
Keep up the great work

 

[Magic Mike]

Video 10 - (Part 2 - Complete)
The inner planking and the skirting that go around pillars are now installed, not sure what these pillars are called.
I wish I had a dollar for every cockpit or inside of an aircraft fuselage I have spent hours detailing, only for my efforts to be hidden from sight when she's buttoned up. But as us modellers say "We know it's there!"
I had the same urge when it came to the endings of the inner planking. I know that these area's will be hard to see when the next deck goes on but I had to try and improve on the video instructions. Many will say probably a waste of time but do love a challenge.

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Do love a bit of masking.

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Did manage to break a couple of these taking them off the spru, but it seems they gave you a couple extra.

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This is how the instructions show the ends of the planking.

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Note the extra packing behind the planking to help with the alignment.

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I believe it was worth the effort.

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Thanks for looking.
T

Tony, the inner planking is "spot-on"! Very nice. Magic Mike

 

[TonyJ]

Nice work Tony, it’s worth a bit more effort to get a better aligned planking than shown in the instruction video. Mine looked a bit better before this photo as I found I had to cut into it to position the knee correctly (video 13 I think)
Keep up the great work

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Thanks Alan. In my haste to get the rooms fitted (now done) I forgot to fit the knees first. Not too much of a problem I can still get in to cut the hole. I will stiffen behind the area with timber and CA so it does not collapse when I cut the gap. I have taken a couple of close looks at the video and I think that the guy may have shaped the knee rather than cut a gap, but not 100% sure.
T

 

[TonyJ]

Tony, the inner planking is "spot-on"! Very nice. Magic Mike

Thanks Mike. I was happy with the results.
T

 

[TonyJ]

Video 11 - (Part 1)
I had already completed the construction of these assemblies earlier but this was the process.
























At this point before things start to get out of hand I decided to do some housekeeping! Some simple paper wallets making life a lot easier going forward.










I used nail polish remover to brush off any excess CA during the build.

Thanks for looking
T

 

[TonyJ]

Video 11 - (Part 2)
Here I tackle the construction of the lamps in the Hanging Magazines. The folding tool I used to fold the bars in the doors earlier seemed to cause a bit of interest with other modellers so I decided to show the process I used to fashion these parts.


A point to note here, something I did not pick up on until I came to glue the LED's in place. The clear parts have a protective film on both sides, this needs to be peeled away.












For certain bending tasks required me to use my Tamiya Bending Pliers.






I sed PVA glue to attach the clear parts.





Thanks for looking
T

 

[TonyJ]

Video 12 - (Complete)
More assemblies for the Orlop Deck.


These first two pics should have been in Part 11, they just show the process of filling and sanding.
















BEWARE! There is a mistake in the instruction video. The 'L' shaped desk you see above is incorrect the 'L' should be the other way around. It was a simple fix to flip the part over and add another top.






BEWARE AGAIN! There is another couple of errors in the instructions. To be fair the error is noted in the instruction video comments.
WS9; it should be WS4
WV3; it should be WS8


The staining on the beds is mostly done with cold coffee.








Here is one of the errors in the instructions which I did not pick up on. The 6 vertical spars should have been square in shape not flat.


Cutting the powder cartridges with my little chopper!


I painted the ends using an acrylic paint pen.


Gluing these parts in place was quite challenging.

Thanks for looking.
Tony

 

[TonyJ]

Video 13 - (Part 1)
Time to get the Orlop Deck fitted out.


Sometimes all the clamps in the world can't replace simplicity!
Because the rooms have a fair amount of flex in them I use what I refer too as 'tacking' when gluing them down. Which is to say I chose one small area, in this case the room on the left glued in down and left to to dry. Once that wasn't going anywhere I proceeded to work my way around in sections gluing and using my expensive modellers weights. Note: I did test fit the rooms with the beams in place to make sure there were no fit issues.


Good tight fit to the deck.


As you can see only the best English tools used here.


Happy days, still aligned OK




I did have to adjust the back wall slightly where it meets up with the planking that I adjusted previously.


More of the same for the other bow end.


The Riding Bits are loosly placed to aid alighnment.

Thanks for looking.
Tony

 

[AllanKP69]

More of the same for the other bow end.

Hi Tony,
I am not trying to be flippant but what/where are the bow ends? This is a new term for me.

Thanks for posting the photo of the acrylic paint pen! I love acrylic paint pens for a number of things, including making panel seams on silk span sails.

Allan