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BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
- Start date
- Watchers 71
First thought, mm Peter missed to take images from what he did so he took some from the real ship ....
Haha,
In that case, you might see that they hooked some blocks the other way around on the 1:1.
That presumably happened in 2022 after the new masts were installed.
Now you can go two ways:
-either the blocks on the 1:1 do not conform to the old specifications.
-or the blocks on my 1:50 do not conform to the 1:1.
Food for thought. There are already discussions anyway. Following my model featuring the skipper and mate's quarters in the aft section, there were already volunteers wondering if the engine room could be reconfigured along with the engine. So that part of this aft accommodation could be restored. But that has been set aside; it would be too drastic a 'remodeling' of all the equipment in the engine room.
Regards, Peter
For the next steps, I laid the mast flat on the workbench.
The leading edge of the sail was tied to the 10 mast hoops:
The lashing was made as much as possible using the knot shown on the insert. However, my line started in the eye of the sail and then went around the hoop.
First, I attached the gaff to the mast using the line with the pearl beads:
I will paint this matte black to remove the shine.
Next, it was the sail's turn to the gaff:
This was secured to the gaff with Marline hitches. Pay close attention: once the line has been wrapped around the gaff and pulled forward through the eyelet in the hem behind the leech line, the line must first go over the horizontal line and only then underneath. When tightening the line, it locks itself in place.
PS: the first 2 went well, but I made a mistake on the 3rd one. But you notice that immediately when tightening: the line does not clamp itself.
And after an hour of knotting, this is the result.
Also on the flat: Claw and Peak Halyard. In the old specifications, these are called 'Bezaanbinnenval' and 'Bezaannokkeval':
Claw Halyard: I have already described the upper block with 0,45 mm line. The lower block is a 4 mm 2-sheave hook block. The hook opening is lashed shut.
In the old specifications: "The lower block (with the hook perpendicular to the axis) was hooked from starboard to port into a longitudinally elongated bracket on top of the claw.
The halyard was rigged in such a way that the hauling part on the starboard side came down from the forward (the innermost, the one closest to the mast) sheave and was secured to a cleat in the cleat rack on the starboard side (secured with the sun)."
Peak halyard: I have already described the 3 blocks at the rear of the mast. As well as the 2 slings and 2 timbles. The fixed end of the 0,45 mm line is secured with a lashed loop approximately in the middle of the gaff.
The 2 brackets around the slings got there 4 mm single-sheave hook block. The hook opening is lashed shut.
In the old specifications: "In each of the 2 brackets, a sheave hook block (hook perpendicular to the bead) was hooked in from bottom to top; with a lying gaff, from front to back, so that the opening of the hook with a standing gaff was directed slightly upwards/backwards.
On the inside, the halyard was spliced into a wide loop. The halyard was spliced around the gaff just before the middle with this loop, ran upwards and from front to back through the lower upper block; downwards and from front to back through the lower lower block. Then again upwards and from front to back through the middle upper block, downwards and from front to back through the upper lower block. Again upwards and from back to front through the upper upper block on which the hauling part was secured to the bead rack in the port side."
Ps: the 'from front to back' should be interpreted with the upper blocks hanging downwards.
With the provisionally secured gaff, the mast could be placed back in the vise:
The halyard lines are already settling a bit, but later I will set them all into their natural shape.
The next step is to fit the mizzen boom with the lashed blocks and lines.
Regards, Peter
The leading edge of the sail was tied to the 10 mast hoops:
The lashing was made as much as possible using the knot shown on the insert. However, my line started in the eye of the sail and then went around the hoop.
First, I attached the gaff to the mast using the line with the pearl beads:
I will paint this matte black to remove the shine.
Next, it was the sail's turn to the gaff:
This was secured to the gaff with Marline hitches. Pay close attention: once the line has been wrapped around the gaff and pulled forward through the eyelet in the hem behind the leech line, the line must first go over the horizontal line and only then underneath. When tightening the line, it locks itself in place.
PS: the first 2 went well, but I made a mistake on the 3rd one. But you notice that immediately when tightening: the line does not clamp itself.
And after an hour of knotting, this is the result.
Also on the flat: Claw and Peak Halyard. In the old specifications, these are called 'Bezaanbinnenval' and 'Bezaannokkeval':
Claw Halyard: I have already described the upper block with 0,45 mm line. The lower block is a 4 mm 2-sheave hook block. The hook opening is lashed shut.
In the old specifications: "The lower block (with the hook perpendicular to the axis) was hooked from starboard to port into a longitudinally elongated bracket on top of the claw.
The halyard was rigged in such a way that the hauling part on the starboard side came down from the forward (the innermost, the one closest to the mast) sheave and was secured to a cleat in the cleat rack on the starboard side (secured with the sun)."
Peak halyard: I have already described the 3 blocks at the rear of the mast. As well as the 2 slings and 2 timbles. The fixed end of the 0,45 mm line is secured with a lashed loop approximately in the middle of the gaff.
The 2 brackets around the slings got there 4 mm single-sheave hook block. The hook opening is lashed shut.
In the old specifications: "In each of the 2 brackets, a sheave hook block (hook perpendicular to the bead) was hooked in from bottom to top; with a lying gaff, from front to back, so that the opening of the hook with a standing gaff was directed slightly upwards/backwards.
On the inside, the halyard was spliced into a wide loop. The halyard was spliced around the gaff just before the middle with this loop, ran upwards and from front to back through the lower upper block; downwards and from front to back through the lower lower block. Then again upwards and from front to back through the middle upper block, downwards and from front to back through the upper lower block. Again upwards and from back to front through the upper upper block on which the hauling part was secured to the bead rack in the port side."
Ps: the 'from front to back' should be interpreted with the upper blocks hanging downwards.
With the provisionally secured gaff, the mast could be placed back in the vise:
The halyard lines are already settling a bit, but later I will set them all into their natural shape.
The next step is to fit the mizzen boom with the lashed blocks and lines.
Regards, Peter
Last edited:
Rope sizes look perfect, Peter. As I mentioned previously: every detail attended to...
Thanks for this (quick) replay, Paul. Then they were doing in the old days a good job.
I 'only' converted the indicated diameter of 22 mm of the main ropes currently set. That is 0.44 mm in 1:50 scale. I used the 0.45 mm from Ropes of Scale instead. I think no one will see that 0,01 mm difference ...... 
Regards, Peter
The navara looks great Peter, good choice.
Thanks, Maarten en Stephan. Yes, the Navarra is also very nice to work with. Next test is the main sail. If a full sail can be fold correctly in scale.
Of course I can …..
But in this case: why do it difficult when it can be done easy.... A little box with many little buggers and some paint …..Regards, Peter