Thanks Alan. Good to know.
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Artesania Latina Anatomy of Lord Nelson’s HMS Victory 1805
- Thread starter AlanOES
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Hey Alan,
Even though it’s late, I’ve got a question about the blocks: Do the two block sets really cover the entire rigging? I mean, for running and standing rigging? Are you happy with the quality – do they look neat? Would it be OK if you could perhaps post a few photos of them? That would be brilliant.
Many thanks
Günther
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Hey Alan,
They were used for positioning and securing. In heavy seas, they prevented the guns from sliding around. They also allowed the gun carriage to be pulled right up against the ship’s side, which was useful for repairs as well. So they were very useful …
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Hi GuntherHey Alan,
Even though it’s late, I’ve got a question about the blocks: Do the two block sets really cover the entire rigging? I mean, for running and standing rigging? Are you happy with the quality – do they look neat? Would it be OK if you could perhaps post a few photos of them? That would be brilliant.
Many thanks
Günther
Sorry for delay in responding but I’ve been away all weekend
Yes, according to their site you get every block required from accurate rigging plans
Not only are they better quality than the kit blocks, but you get a greater variety of block sizes so you don’t have to use not quite the right size as you would by using the supplied kit blocks
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Hey Alan,
There’s no need to apologise!! It’s all fine, and I’m really glad you replied. As you know, I’m mad about your building style, and it looks absolutely brilliant the way you’ve created it… Thanks for all your effort with the blocks, and yes, I agree with you. The blocks definitely look better… I suppose I’ll have to get some myself to make it look really great.
There’s no need to apologise!! It’s all fine, and I’m really glad you replied. As you know, I’m mad about your building style, and it looks absolutely brilliant the way you’ve created it… Thanks for all your effort with the blocks, and yes, I agree with you. The blocks definitely look better… I suppose I’ll have to get some myself to make it look really great.
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Thank you GuntherHey Alan,
I’ve caught up on what I’d missed and followed your build log. It’s amazing!! Really beautifully done. The build log is absolutely brilliant. Thanks for sharing and for the insights …
Nice to see you back again
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Instructions video #41 Part 1
In this first part I construct the 68lb carronades that reside on the forecastle. It made a change to do a different type of gun carriage and there’s a fair bit of work to it
As mentioned in my previous post, there weren’t enough pre drilled holes in the foc’sle rail to accommodate all the gun tackles so I had to drill additional ones , other than that everything went smoothly. Again, I used aftermarket blocks and stropped them with hooks
In this first part I construct the 68lb carronades that reside on the forecastle. It made a change to do a different type of gun carriage and there’s a fair bit of work to it
As mentioned in my previous post, there weren’t enough pre drilled holes in the foc’sle rail to accommodate all the gun tackles so I had to drill additional ones , other than that everything went smoothly. Again, I used aftermarket blocks and stropped them with hooks
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Instructions video #41 Part 2
Yippee!! In this final part I build the final two guns of the 104
These final two on the foc’sle are 12lb medium guns. I haven’t gone into detail with the construction of these as it’s been covered before, if you want to see a detailed assembly process check out my post for video #23
The only difference here is that the video seems to show the running out tackles wrapped up, so I had a go at that, also there is no tackle at the rear of the gun carriage.
Next I do the shot garlands for the carronades. The kit supplies 2 shot sizes to fill the racks or garlands, 2mm for the 32 and 24 pound guns and 1.5mm for the 12 pounders. The video instructions are to load these garlands with the 2mm shot, but it seemed logical to me that the shot for the 68lb carronades would be larger than that for the 32lb guns, so I sourced some 2.5mm ball bearings and used those.
Next I construct some brass sheaves and holders that fit around the foc’sle then finally fit the hammock crane shelves that run along the outside of the foc’sle rail.
Yippee!! In this final part I build the final two guns of the 104
These final two on the foc’sle are 12lb medium guns. I haven’t gone into detail with the construction of these as it’s been covered before, if you want to see a detailed assembly process check out my post for video #23
The only difference here is that the video seems to show the running out tackles wrapped up, so I had a go at that, also there is no tackle at the rear of the gun carriage.
Next I do the shot garlands for the carronades. The kit supplies 2 shot sizes to fill the racks or garlands, 2mm for the 32 and 24 pound guns and 1.5mm for the 12 pounders. The video instructions are to load these garlands with the 2mm shot, but it seemed logical to me that the shot for the 68lb carronades would be larger than that for the 32lb guns, so I sourced some 2.5mm ball bearings and used those.
Next I construct some brass sheaves and holders that fit around the foc’sle then finally fit the hammock crane shelves that run along the outside of the foc’sle rail.
Last edited:
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Thanks GuntherHey Alan,
IT is amazing to see what you built! I like your buikt so much. Thanks! You are a Modelmaster...!Daumen hoch
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Instructions video #42 Part 1
In this first part I construct the roundhouses at the bow of the ship
For those that don’t know, these are the toilets for junior officers , warrant officers and midshipmen, who used the portside roundhouse, the starboard side was for recovering patients in the sick bay. Senior officers had access to private toilets off their cabins at the stern of the ship. Ordinary seamen had to use open air toilets known as “seats of ease “ out on the beak of the ship.
The only thing I had trouble with was making the mouldings around the top of the roundhouses, the parts that need bending around the temple are very fragile, luckily the kit supplies 2 of each as my first attempt didn’t go well
In this first part I construct the roundhouses at the bow of the ship
For those that don’t know, these are the toilets for junior officers , warrant officers and midshipmen, who used the portside roundhouse, the starboard side was for recovering patients in the sick bay. Senior officers had access to private toilets off their cabins at the stern of the ship. Ordinary seamen had to use open air toilets known as “seats of ease “ out on the beak of the ship.
The only thing I had trouble with was making the mouldings around the top of the roundhouses, the parts that need bending around the temple are very fragile, luckily the kit supplies 2 of each as my first attempt didn’t go well
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Instructions video #42 Part 2
In this part I continue adding the mouldings to the bulkhead between the roundhouses. As you may notice in my photos, part U40 was missing a small part at one end so I had to fabricate a piece myself. Next I fit the doors and hatches leading out onto the beak head, the instructions show both hatches closed and the doors partly open but I decided to have one of the hatches open too. Finally another flat moulding is fitted along the top of the bulkhead and I add the ring bolts above the roundhouses The instructions only show 3 ring bolts on either side and if I remember correctly from research I did for my other Victory model over 20 years ago, only 3 are used for the rigging. But if you look closely at photos of Victory you will see she actually has 5 ring bolts over each roundhouse, so that’s what I have done
In this part I continue adding the mouldings to the bulkhead between the roundhouses. As you may notice in my photos, part U40 was missing a small part at one end so I had to fabricate a piece myself. Next I fit the doors and hatches leading out onto the beak head, the instructions show both hatches closed and the doors partly open but I decided to have one of the hatches open too. Finally another flat moulding is fitted along the top of the bulkhead and I add the ring bolts above the roundhouses The instructions only show 3 ring bolts on either side and if I remember correctly from research I did for my other Victory model over 20 years ago, only 3 are used for the rigging. But if you look closely at photos of Victory you will see she actually has 5 ring bolts over each roundhouse, so that’s what I have done
- Joined
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Instructions video #43 Part 1
Completed (almost)
In this first part of instruction video #43 I fit the fenders and chesstrees,
as usual, not as easy as he makes it look painting the fenders to match the stripes, several visits with the masking tape to get a reasonable line on all sides of them. The same parts for the starboard side come off the sheet shorter than the port side ones, but it seems in the video that they have been shortened further. That makes sense for the fenders as there’s not much hull below the top mouldings, but I kept the chesstree the original length as it has to house a brass sheave
Finally in this part I should be fitting the billboards, that’s where the “almost “ comes in. These are the small platforms at the top of the hull that are used in stowing the anchors. Each platform is made up of two pieces, but as I tried to remove them from the sheet, three of them crumbled into small pieces at the rounded end, perhaps a flaw in the sheet timber, a straight break I could have dealt with but these were beyond repair
I’ve been assured by AL that they will send me replacement parts asap and luckily these parts can be added at any time so It won’t hold up my build
Completed (almost)
In this first part of instruction video #43 I fit the fenders and chesstrees,
as usual, not as easy as he makes it look painting the fenders to match the stripes, several visits with the masking tape to get a reasonable line on all sides of them. The same parts for the starboard side come off the sheet shorter than the port side ones, but it seems in the video that they have been shortened further. That makes sense for the fenders as there’s not much hull below the top mouldings, but I kept the chesstree the original length as it has to house a brass sheave
Finally in this part I should be fitting the billboards, that’s where the “almost “ comes in. These are the small platforms at the top of the hull that are used in stowing the anchors. Each platform is made up of two pieces, but as I tried to remove them from the sheet, three of them crumbled into small pieces at the rounded end, perhaps a flaw in the sheet timber, a straight break I could have dealt with but these were beyond repair
I’ve been assured by AL that they will send me replacement parts asap and luckily these parts can be added at any time so It won’t hold up my build
- Joined
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Artesania Latina. Anatomy of Lord Nelson’s HMS Victory
Instructions video #43 part 2
In this final part of video #43 I fit the entry port canopy and door, on one of my visits to Victory I took a photo of the crest above the entry door, so I reduced it in size and placed above the door, it’s hardly noticeable under the canopy so another one to file under the “I know it’s there “ category. Next I make and fit the side steps , then add the “man ropes” that run down the sides of the steps. I did consider not actually fitting the ropes as they are not a permanent fixture and would only be in place when the ship was in port or taking on cargo or personnel, but I thought it’s another little detail on a very detailed kit. I initially fitted the kit supplied 0.1mm white thread, but even after running it through bees wax it was still fuzzy on close up photos, so I exchanged it for some of my 0.25mm light beige rope from Ropes of Scale, which surprisingly , as I think I’ve mentioned before, is not much bigger than AL’s 0.1mm
Instructions video #43 part 2
In this final part of video #43 I fit the entry port canopy and door, on one of my visits to Victory I took a photo of the crest above the entry door, so I reduced it in size and placed above the door, it’s hardly noticeable under the canopy so another one to file under the “I know it’s there “ category. Next I make and fit the side steps , then add the “man ropes” that run down the sides of the steps. I did consider not actually fitting the ropes as they are not a permanent fixture and would only be in place when the ship was in port or taking on cargo or personnel, but I thought it’s another little detail on a very detailed kit. I initially fitted the kit supplied 0.1mm white thread, but even after running it through bees wax it was still fuzzy on close up photos, so I exchanged it for some of my 0.25mm light beige rope from Ropes of Scale, which surprisingly , as I think I’ve mentioned before, is not much bigger than AL’s 0.1mm
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Instructions video #44 completed
In this video I start with the construction of the poop deck skylight.
Most kits including this one get this wrong in my opinion, by having a flat top to the skylight My reference books have differing accounts, a couple just show drawings of a flat top, others, including Longridge’s Anatomy of Nelsons Ships mention the cambered top and that’s how he constructed his model. I’ve certainly seen old black and white photos of Victory from the early 1900’s that show a curved top too, and it seems logical that this would be the case to assist with the run off of water
I certainly prefer that look so decided to adapt the kit parts by making curved end sections from Evergreen strip then formed to top section to follow the profile. This just meant that I had to adapt the glazing strips (CP5) to fit the slightly smaller internal dimensions.
Overall I think it came out really well and I’m happy with my efforts
Next I fit the fire bucket hooks and hammock cranes to the rail above the binnacle at the front of the poop deck
The hammock cranes are labelled left and right, but after studying the video in zoom mode I couldn’t see any obvious differences in the way they are oriented. Feedback from AL said that some of the tiny holes in them were a different way round but I couldn’t see this on the video and decided to put them all the same way with the hooks facing forward. Again I have added my own netting
Finally in this video I make the fire buckets. I’d been looking forward to this but not, if you know what I mean
The video tells you to anneal the brass,
but after doing that with the first couple I was concerned that the discolouration would effect the brightness of the brass when finally scraping off the black paint, so I formed them straight off the sheet
I found forming them around a bradawl I had gave pretty good results. Don’t think I got many perfectly round ones but to my knowledge these buckets were made from leather with a copper rim riveted top and bottom to give their shape. I’m sure that would of taken many knocks and got a bit misshaped,
so mine are probably more prototypical
I struggled trying to transfer the first couple of buckets onto the hooks using tweezers as they kept dropping off at the final approach, so I devised a very quick and easy way to do the rest by using a small piece of double sided tape on the end of my scalpel, the final 19 went on quicker than the first 2 !
In this video I start with the construction of the poop deck skylight.
Most kits including this one get this wrong in my opinion, by having a flat top to the skylight My reference books have differing accounts, a couple just show drawings of a flat top, others, including Longridge’s Anatomy of Nelsons Ships mention the cambered top and that’s how he constructed his model. I’ve certainly seen old black and white photos of Victory from the early 1900’s that show a curved top too, and it seems logical that this would be the case to assist with the run off of water
I certainly prefer that look so decided to adapt the kit parts by making curved end sections from Evergreen strip then formed to top section to follow the profile. This just meant that I had to adapt the glazing strips (CP5) to fit the slightly smaller internal dimensions.
Overall I think it came out really well and I’m happy with my efforts
Next I fit the fire bucket hooks and hammock cranes to the rail above the binnacle at the front of the poop deck
The hammock cranes are labelled left and right, but after studying the video in zoom mode I couldn’t see any obvious differences in the way they are oriented. Feedback from AL said that some of the tiny holes in them were a different way round but I couldn’t see this on the video and decided to put them all the same way with the hooks facing forward. Again I have added my own netting
Finally in this video I make the fire buckets. I’d been looking forward to this but not, if you know what I mean
The video tells you to anneal the brass,
but after doing that with the first couple I was concerned that the discolouration would effect the brightness of the brass when finally scraping off the black paint, so I formed them straight off the sheet
I found forming them around a bradawl I had gave pretty good results. Don’t think I got many perfectly round ones but to my knowledge these buckets were made from leather with a copper rim riveted top and bottom to give their shape. I’m sure that would of taken many knocks and got a bit misshaped,
so mine are probably more prototypical
I struggled trying to transfer the first couple of buckets onto the hooks using tweezers as they kept dropping off at the final approach, so I devised a very quick and easy way to do the rest by using a small piece of double sided tape on the end of my scalpel, the final 19 went on quicker than the first 2 !
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2024
- Messages
- 264
- Points
- 158
Thank you.