I love the idea Dave, great way to go. Don
Bomb vessel cross section - scale 3/8 or 1:32
- Thread starter Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)
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talk about dust in the shop I fill a 40 galleon trash container each and every week. and everything is covered in dust. i do have an industrial grade dust collection system but that is far from 100% in sucking up dust. My actual model building is done in the house and I do keep the dust down because all the mill work and heavy sanding is done out in the shop behind the house.
I have actually opened all the doors and windows and took a leaf blower and blew out my work area. I too have a air filtration in my work area but the best thing is a shop vac with the hose right up close to the work I am doing.
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the thing is Ev my wife is also an artist and does various things for art shows, craft shows and projects for people. When you walk into our house your not walking into a typical house with furniture and carpeting and everything neat and clean. Our living style is more industrial, a working studio our work is all around us. the floors are wood planking for easy cleanup. I joke around with visitors and tell them "oh ya every spring we move stuff out in the yard then take a hose and wash down the rooms and use a leaf blower to blow dry the rooms."
I have actually done stone carving, welding, and sand blasting in my living room.
my first wife did not understand the way of the artist and could not live with "work in progress" well that was 38 years ago. Ev and i are like minded.
I have actually done stone carving, welding, and sand blasting in my living room.
my first wife did not understand the way of the artist and could not live with "work in progress" well that was 38 years ago. Ev and i are like minded.
I to have a heavy duty shop vac that stays on my thickness sander and when I use my power tools in my work room i bring the vac in and attach it to what ever machine I am using, i do a lot of dremel and hand sanding and that is what creats the problem as my work room has no ventilation at all in fact it is my TORNADO ROOM. Don
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next stage of the build requires milling out scale lumber if you have a woodworking shop it's no big deal. but if your working in a hobby room with basic modeling tools this might be a problem.
first you need to resaw lumber into usable pieces. I will tell you right now those 4 inch table saws won't cut it if the lumber is thicker than 3/4 inch
This is the size material hobby tools will handle except for the thicker pieces in the bottom bundle.
As options
if you have the tools you can order rough lumber like you see in the first photo. but keep in mind the cost of shipping and weight if it cost $20.00 for shipping 1/2 that you paid for material that will end up as dust on the floor.
you can purchase milled lumber like the bundle on the top of the pile, pro/con your paying much less for shipping but paying to have the wood milled. Then again no muss, no dust, don't need power tools your ready to build.
the best of both the above, purchase resawn dimensioned stock What this is wood that is cut close to size but the surface is rough and the material has to be finished to size. the surface between resawn and milled is this.
first you need to resaw lumber into usable pieces. I will tell you right now those 4 inch table saws won't cut it if the lumber is thicker than 3/4 inch
This is the size material hobby tools will handle except for the thicker pieces in the bottom bundle.
As options
if you have the tools you can order rough lumber like you see in the first photo. but keep in mind the cost of shipping and weight if it cost $20.00 for shipping 1/2 that you paid for material that will end up as dust on the floor.
you can purchase milled lumber like the bundle on the top of the pile, pro/con your paying much less for shipping but paying to have the wood milled. Then again no muss, no dust, don't need power tools your ready to build.
the best of both the above, purchase resawn dimensioned stock What this is wood that is cut close to size but the surface is rough and the material has to be finished to size. the surface between resawn and milled is this.
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what you see is an example of the cutting list for the project. I took each page and listed the part and it's size. notice the different colors, it's a color code for the resaw list to the right.
milling out all the material to the sizes is a big milling job in the right list it requires resawing only 7 sizes and everything to the left can me milled from the material in the cutting list. Far cheaper to purchase the material list than the milled list, but that is a DIY job so you will be spending time finishing the wood to size.
milling out all the material to the sizes is a big milling job in the right list it requires resawing only 7 sizes and everything to the left can me milled from the material in the cutting list. Far cheaper to purchase the material list than the milled list, but that is a DIY job so you will be spending time finishing the wood to size.
As always very informative, I guess you know witch one I will go for. Don
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there is one solution to dust and that is to use a down draft table. I have use them in the past and if you have a good shop vac hooked up to it the dust is sucked down and not floating around the room. you can buy one or build one.
or something like this but building in a box sometimes gets to be a problem but you can also reinvent the booth to a table.
vent-works.com
its like one of those air hockey game tables in reverse
or something like this but building in a box sometimes gets to be a problem but you can also reinvent the booth to a table.
DIY Hobby Spray Booth
Build Your Own Spray Booth If you are a hands-on do it yourselfer, or just want a high quality spray booth, creating a spray booth yourself might be the right route for you. All you need are some basic tools, common materials, and at least a few hours.We recently created our own hobby spray...
vent-works.com
its like one of those air hockey game tables in reverse
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getting back to the build next to install is the keelson. when i set the keelson on the floors there is a gap from frames 9 to 12 because those frames sit higher than the rest.
the drawing shows the keelson has a tapper to it
the drawing shows the keelson has a tapper to it
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The floor riders would be a little difficult to cut out unless you have a table saw, scroll saw or mill, but not impossible to do by hand.
my solution to cutting the floor riders is laser cutting
to install the riders they sit on top of the frames and over the keelson.
Cutting parts like the riders depends on the wood you choose to use. I cut a lot of joinery with a simple razor saw, knife and vice ( I demonstrated how to do it in another topic on the forum ). I also use a wood that is easy to cut by hand rather than hard woods such as Boxwood or hard Maple. It also depends on the Philosophy of the build that is if your in no hurry and like the hand work and working with wood then it does not matter if it takes you 1 hour or 5 hours to cut the riders. If you consider having to cut parts like the riders a task and you want to move on with the build then machining them is the way to go. you can achieve very accurate work by hand as will as with a mill. OR when the DIY create a kit becomes available just order a set
my solution to cutting the floor riders is laser cutting
to install the riders they sit on top of the frames and over the keelson.
Cutting parts like the riders depends on the wood you choose to use. I cut a lot of joinery with a simple razor saw, knife and vice ( I demonstrated how to do it in another topic on the forum ). I also use a wood that is easy to cut by hand rather than hard woods such as Boxwood or hard Maple. It also depends on the Philosophy of the build that is if your in no hurry and like the hand work and working with wood then it does not matter if it takes you 1 hour or 5 hours to cut the riders. If you consider having to cut parts like the riders a task and you want to move on with the build then machining them is the way to go. you can achieve very accurate work by hand as will as with a mill. OR when the DIY create a kit becomes available just order a set
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The floor rider is fitting very good to the inside of the frame - great work
YOU BET. Don
Dave, I do not want to interfere with this thread but please check your PMs,. Don
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that brings up the hand vs machine
sure with a laser cutter and CAD drafting everything fits just perfect so some say "that's not skill that is machine done" and yes it is like fitting the 3 pieces of the rider that lap scarf fits really nice. But i can argue what's your CAD skills? not the same though as hand skills with hand tools.
the laser is cutting on the green line so it cuts exactly the same for the inside of the frame and the bottom of the rider.
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MY THOUGHTS ON THIS IT IS A SHIP MODELING SKILL, we must get rid of the NOTION THAT ALL THINGS need to progress using the OLD SKILLS AS THE ONLY WAY TO DO THINGS (ELITIST) and USE THE NEW ADVANCES IN TECHNOLOGY TO OUR ADVANTAGE, VERY FEW HAVE THE SKILL SET TO DO THIS BY HAND AND KEEP IT AS NICE A FIT AS A LASSER CUTTER/ CAD, USE WHAT IS GIVEN TO US TO OUR ADVANTAGE, GO FOR THE GREATER GOOD VERSUSES THE ELITIST METHOD, my thoughts. Don
As an example from real life, i keep remembering things that went on in my life, when i first was starting out my career in construction i was a forman and we were constructing the DORAL BEACH HOTEL (MIAMI BEACH) and there were very exclusive shops that were being done by thge owners of the shop one shop i do not remeber the name but i SURE REMEMBER THE INCIDENT, there was an old time CARPENTER DOING WOOD WORKING FOR THE SHOP HE WAS DOING CROWN MOULDING, and i was watching he had a blosck of wood with a nail driven in and what he was doing was using the nail to scrape out the crown moulding HAND OR MACHINE OR ORDERING AS READY MADE, you tell me.Don
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I built all 5 of the riders and set them in the hull to check that they all fit. Those are not the real colors i just tinted them so they show up in the image.
my concern was if I glued the riders in place would I be able to slip the lower section of the clamp between the rider and the hull? you can see the clamp is not sitting flat along the hull which made fitting a little difficult. Once the riders are glued in it would make it very difficult to sand the hull so the clamp would slip in place.
i found out if i put the clamp in and the riders it was sort of a wedge effect and the clamp pushed the rider up and away from the frame floor.
a little sanding of the hull was needed to insure everything fit as it should.
Once i felt confident everything would fit my approach was to set the two end riders in place with the clamp. then i can add the remainder of the riders and make slight adjustments if needed.
riders and clamps were all glued in at once. I switched from the fast setting super glue to titebond wood glue which gives me pleanty of time to make adjustments.
my concern was if I glued the riders in place would I be able to slip the lower section of the clamp between the rider and the hull? you can see the clamp is not sitting flat along the hull which made fitting a little difficult. Once the riders are glued in it would make it very difficult to sand the hull so the clamp would slip in place.
i found out if i put the clamp in and the riders it was sort of a wedge effect and the clamp pushed the rider up and away from the frame floor.
a little sanding of the hull was needed to insure everything fit as it should.
Once i felt confident everything would fit my approach was to set the two end riders in place with the clamp. then i can add the remainder of the riders and make slight adjustments if needed.
riders and clamps were all glued in at once. I switched from the fast setting super glue to titebond wood glue which gives me pleanty of time to make adjustments.
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there is an upper section to the clamps and it sits right on the lower section between the rider and the hull.
The notches are right on top of the rider so first their location is marked out. the notches are cut by hand with only a razor saw, knife and vice. If this is your first semi-kit project using a wood such as Basswood or Poplar makes cutting notches so much easier than using a hard wood. Sometimes a project like this is more of a learning process rather than being about the final model. so using a softer more workable wood is a better choise.
and the clamp in place.
The notches are right on top of the rider so first their location is marked out. the notches are cut by hand with only a razor saw, knife and vice. If this is your first semi-kit project using a wood such as Basswood or Poplar makes cutting notches so much easier than using a hard wood. Sometimes a project like this is more of a learning process rather than being about the final model. so using a softer more workable wood is a better choise.
and the clamp in place.