Here is the kits spring set compared to the new one.
1/12 scale Alfa Romeo 8c 2300 roadster build log [COMPLETED BUILD]
Your own build spring-set looks good, François. Perhaps painting the kit springs for a good comparison?
Regards, Peter
some more work done
The kit's leaf spring mounting brackets are split in 2 (probably for ease of moulding). I modified them so that they are now 1 piece which permits me to incorporate a small hex head bolt as a grease point.
All 4 spring sets are done and painted
Predrilled the frame and body parts for the lockwire bolts
Modified the fenders to look a bit more like the ref car (still needs some sanding)
The kit's leaf spring mounting brackets are split in 2 (probably for ease of moulding). I modified them so that they are now 1 piece which permits me to incorporate a small hex head bolt as a grease point.
All 4 spring sets are done and painted
Predrilled the frame and body parts for the lockwire bolts
Modified the fenders to look a bit more like the ref car (still needs some sanding)
Well ok, the fender thing isn't really working. The real fender has a stamped aluminium rivet plate (last photo in previous post) , that's what I was trying to do with the white plastic but I didn't like it so It was back to the drawing board. I decided to make my own stamped alum rivet plate, just like on the ref car but 12 times smaller.
I first made a stamping die
I then roll formed a .005in alum sheet
and voila, 8 stamped alum rivet plates
The lock wire will be installed once the paint is done.
I aslo did the seat back in red leather, still needs some fitting but it should look good
I first made a stamping die
I then roll formed a .005in alum sheet
and voila, 8 stamped alum rivet plates
The lock wire will be installed once the paint is done.
I aslo did the seat back in red leather, still needs some fitting but it should look good
Very well done model,
The Alfa 8C-2300 Monza is the car I would purchase if I ever win the Lotto. I have several close up photos 8C 2300 that show parts of the suspension, wheels, Interior and the timing advance on the car. I also have some photos of the factory drawings for the car. if you send me your email address via the forums message system I would be happy to send them to you.
Jim Nunn
Thank you Jim. I totally agree with you. I restored a Triumph TR6 back in 2006 and said at the time, "never again". But I definitely would restore an 8c 2300. I sent you my email.
Finished the seat today, very pleased with the result. 
The kit seat
The kit seat
Finished the seat today, very pleased with the result.
The kit seat
François
The seat is stunning.
What did you use to cover the seat, bookbinding Leather?
The kit seat
François
The seat is stunning.
What did you use to cover the seat, bookbinding Leather?
Thanks
An old pair of leather gloves my wife didn't une anymore. For the piping I used a 0.05in dia styrene rod that I color matcher.
An old pair of leather gloves my wife didn't une anymore. For the piping I used a 0.05in dia styrene rod that I color matcher.
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Excellent.
Did a bit more work today.
1- The seat on my ref car has a divider in the middle and, since it's a race car, it also has racing belts. So I made the divider but I'm not sure if I'll but it on yet. As for the belts, I'll see if I want them or not later on.
2- I also decided to redo the floor pan. The kit's pan is a not so good with wierd checker texture of some sort. The idea is to replace the front portion of the pan along with the 2 side stiffening rails which will be made as 2 separarte parts. I'll keep the plastic rear portion where the seat sits.
The kit's floor pan
The first rib test
The rib press
The second rib test
The floor pan blank
What I'm aiming for
What I've got so far (the plastic front portion will be totaly removed, including the axle tunnel which will be redone in alum)
1- The seat on my ref car has a divider in the middle and, since it's a race car, it also has racing belts. So I made the divider but I'm not sure if I'll but it on yet. As for the belts, I'll see if I want them or not later on.
2- I also decided to redo the floor pan. The kit's pan is a not so good with wierd checker texture of some sort. The idea is to replace the front portion of the pan along with the 2 side stiffening rails which will be made as 2 separarte parts. I'll keep the plastic rear portion where the seat sits.
The kit's floor pan
The first rib test
The rib press
The second rib test
The floor pan blank
What I'm aiming for
What I've got so far (the plastic front portion will be totaly removed, including the axle tunnel which will be redone in alum)
The stiffening rails
The pan with the tunnel installed
The pan with the tunnel installed
Floor pan finished. I'll add some micro bolt heads once I receive the ones I ordered.
All the parts ready for assembly
Floor pan complete with foot activated high/low beam switch. (Foot switchs were effectively used as early as 1929)
All the parts ready for assembly
Floor pan complete with foot activated high/low beam switch. (Foot switchs were effectively used as early as 1929)
The body on the real car has a rolled lip all around the cockpit.
Unfortunately, The kit's body doesn't.
So I decided to add the lip by gluing a .05in dia rod all around and blending it witn a bit of putty. We'll see the result once I prime the body but I think it should be ok.
Unfortunately, The kit's body doesn't.
So I decided to add the lip by gluing a .05in dia rod all around and blending it witn a bit of putty. We'll see the result once I prime the body but I think it should be ok.
All adjustments and changes are approved by myself - Great work and approvements
I like the leather seat very much - authentic appearance
I like the leather seat very much - authentic appearance
Thank you very much Uwek, I really enjoy trying to get as much details as I can.
Speaking of details, I notice that on my ref car, the high beam switch is located in a different spot. I wasn't looking at the right car when I put it in. So I changed it.
Ref car
My take on it
Speaking of details, I notice that on my ref car, the high beam switch is located in a different spot. I wasn't looking at the right car when I put it in. So I changed it.
Ref car
My take on it
I'm still at it!! Doing a lot of prep work before priming. The kit uses a lot of slotted head screws that I really don't like. They are manly used to assemble the different suspension components, both to the front and rear axels and to the frame. The real car did not use slotted screws for this. It was mostly threaded studs sticking out of the frame or hex head bolts and nuts. I'm replacing these screw either with brass studs that are threaded into the frame or with hex head bolts. I aslo added grease points on the leaf spring pivot bracket and replaced many small plastic blobs that are supposed to represent bolts by nicer 3d printed bolt heads and nuts. Here are a few pics.
Tapping holes for studs
frame components pretty much ready for primer
front axel where you can see the grease point on the leaf spring pivot bracket
rear axel
some 3d printed nuts and bolts added
Still a lot more do do and still having lots of fun doing it!!
Tapping holes for studs
frame components pretty much ready for primer
front axel where you can see the grease point on the leaf spring pivot bracket
rear axel
some 3d printed nuts and bolts added
Still a lot more do do and still having lots of fun doing it!!
Great detailing, François. Loved to see your pictures.
Rergards, Peter
Thank you Peter!
Tried my hand at a bit of body work today.
The rear deck on the kit model
The rear deck on my ref car
I made a rear deck out of aluminium with a few louvers (I wasn't able to make more, too small)
Still some finishing work to do but overall, I'm very satisfied with the result.
Tried my hand at a bit of body work today.
The rear deck on the kit model
The rear deck on my ref car
I made a rear deck out of aluminium with a few louvers (I wasn't able to make more, too small)
Still some finishing work to do but overall, I'm very satisfied with the result.
I noticed one of your reference photos showed seat belts. A race car from the '30s would definitely NOT have seat belts. Of course, a restored one driving around today would have them installed just to keep the valuable windscreen protected if you rear-ended someone...
I'm also dubious of all of the bolt safety-wiring of your reference as well as the dead-flat ("frozen") paint finish, but it's your choice.
I'm also dubious of all of the bolt safety-wiring of your reference as well as the dead-flat ("frozen") paint finish, but it's your choice.