Clever solution, Tim (and what I mean by that is I was about to suggest the same thing and then kept reading to learn you had already done it 
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Isn't that how we always "know" we're on the right track?Clever solution, Tim (and what I mean by that is I was about to suggest the same thing and then kept reading to learn you had already done it
I added a couple more bits - two braces in the bow. And I've extracted it from the slip.
After snipping the first frame free, that frame popped loose from one of the risers due to the violence of the snap when I cut it loose, and the fact that I hadn’t put a lot of CA- on it. So - I put another dose of CA- on each frame/riser joint - and the finished snipping the hull loose from the shipway without further issue.
Right now, it's staged for adding the deadwood to the bow - this deadwood then gets sanded into proper bow shape - for the real planking. Like this …
To that end, I've experimented with soaking the deadwood planks and trying to bend em. Apparently, they need to soak for at least an hour, before I can bend em without em snapping. got one bent.
Showing the two added braces across the bow (not stained yet) ...
The stern view, before the slipway was removed ...
Metamorphosis ...
And after breaking 2 planks, I found the formula ...
And one pic just for fun ...
That's it. Enjoy.
After snipping the first frame free, that frame popped loose from one of the risers due to the violence of the snap when I cut it loose, and the fact that I hadn’t put a lot of CA- on it. So - I put another dose of CA- on each frame/riser joint - and the finished snipping the hull loose from the shipway without further issue.
Right now, it's staged for adding the deadwood to the bow - this deadwood then gets sanded into proper bow shape - for the real planking. Like this …
To that end, I've experimented with soaking the deadwood planks and trying to bend em. Apparently, they need to soak for at least an hour, before I can bend em without em snapping. got one bent.
Showing the two added braces across the bow (not stained yet) ...
The stern view, before the slipway was removed ...
Metamorphosis ...
And after breaking 2 planks, I found the formula ...
And one pic just for fun ...
That's it. Enjoy.
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Well played. You can get away with simply soaking something as soft as basswood, but pear is going to need both moisture and heat.
Yeah, I’m still learning. And was happy I didn’t break too much while doing it.
So, last night, I placed 5 deadwood planks on each side of the stem.
And while doing that, found that I was breaking about a third of them while heating the well soaked planks in the bending jig with the hot iron. I tried going slower - almost ok. Then I thought to myself - when they plank real hulls, all of the plank is heated - not just one side. So, I tried passing the iron over the outside of the bend first - just a couple seconds. Then I turned the plank over and bent it into shape - so far, doing it like that, I haven't had a break. I'll learn if this is really helping, or whether I just got lucky, when I finish bending the rest of em.
The 5 deadwood planks on the starboard side, unsanded.
Yeah - you can see a bend splinter in the closest plank in the above pic - but it's been glued up and will sand out.
And the 5 deadwood planks on the port side of the stem - sanded fair. I didn't grab a pic of the port side before fairing it, but it looked even rougher than the starboard side still looks. (Which is why I chose the port side for the fairing test. If it didn't work, I planned to remove the planking on both sides, figure out the problem, and redo em.)
And the deadwood technique works - no gaps from sanding any deadwood all the way through.
After installing the deadwood, the planks get cut off flush with the top riser, like this ...
So - I'm gonna finish planking the deadwood, fair the hull and then plank the hull. Note that I plan to nail the hull planks as I go - easier to make sure the nails don't miss the ribs that way.
And while doing that, found that I was breaking about a third of them while heating the well soaked planks in the bending jig with the hot iron. I tried going slower - almost ok. Then I thought to myself - when they plank real hulls, all of the plank is heated - not just one side. So, I tried passing the iron over the outside of the bend first - just a couple seconds. Then I turned the plank over and bent it into shape - so far, doing it like that, I haven't had a break. I'll learn if this is really helping, or whether I just got lucky, when I finish bending the rest of em.
The 5 deadwood planks on the starboard side, unsanded.
Yeah - you can see a bend splinter in the closest plank in the above pic - but it's been glued up and will sand out.
And the 5 deadwood planks on the port side of the stem - sanded fair. I didn't grab a pic of the port side before fairing it, but it looked even rougher than the starboard side still looks. (Which is why I chose the port side for the fairing test. If it didn't work, I planned to remove the planking on both sides, figure out the problem, and redo em.)
And the deadwood technique works - no gaps from sanding any deadwood all the way through.
After installing the deadwood, the planks get cut off flush with the top riser, like this ...
So - I'm gonna finish planking the deadwood, fair the hull and then plank the hull. Note that I plan to nail the hull planks as I go - easier to make sure the nails don't miss the ribs that way.
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Finished adding the deadwood planks to the bow.
And I didn't break anymore planks using my improved technique ...
Which was two things - first was heating em on the outside a few seconds, before heating the bend to em on the inside. Second thing was that I rotated the iron every few seconds - putting the hotter top side down against the wood I was bending, while letting the side that just cooled off a bit while bending - regain some heat by being on top, away from the damp wood.
Here's the deadwood before trimming it ...
And here it is, all sanded up and trimmed ...
Dry fitting the garboard and adjacent planks ...
And, just for fun ...
And I didn't break anymore planks using my improved technique ...
Which was two things - first was heating em on the outside a few seconds, before heating the bend to em on the inside. Second thing was that I rotated the iron every few seconds - putting the hotter top side down against the wood I was bending, while letting the side that just cooled off a bit while bending - regain some heat by being on top, away from the damp wood.
Here's the deadwood before trimming it ...
And here it is, all sanded up and trimmed ...
Dry fitting the garboard and adjacent planks ...
And, just for fun ...
Looking good, Tim. Glad the new technique is working better for you. Question: how long are you soaking your planks? Something as dense and tight-grained as pear will need to soak overnight at least, and long is better. Leaving them soaking for several days won’t hurt them. Depending on how thick they are, a steam box might be useful so that you are starting with hot planks.
They had soaked for a couple days. These were 2.5x4mm planks that were much lighter in color (creamy, almost white) than the rest of the model. Could they still be pearwood?
Thick is a good description for these planks - as they're meant to be sanded down quite a bit.
I have another boat, the Falkusa, a 1:20 scale by Marris Stella, for which I've only planked the hull. Because the thick ribs that go inside the hull - I've been so far unable to bend them without breaking em. That build involved planking the hull over false frames, removing those false frames leaving the shell of the hull - and then putting the ribs into the shell of the hull afterward. And oh that hull ... it is such beautiful wood, that I intend to finish it - maybe now I'll be able to bend those planks properly.
A steam box eh? I could try soaking em in boiling water.
Thanks for the advice.
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I'm seriously considering just cutting the clamps flush with the front frame and filling the area ahead of the front frame with bass wood. I'm not certain how else I could do it. Your fairing is looking mighty sweet, tho.
I am looking at the filler wood from my cherry kit. I wanna say it's lime wood. It's very light and soft, almost like balsa, but not quite.
I am looking at the filler wood from my cherry kit. I wanna say it's lime wood. It's very light and soft, almost like balsa, but not quite.
Thx, The fairing of the deadwood doesn’t need to be perfect. Can have small low spots. The planking will ride on the rest of it. Lime wood sounds about right, for the deadwood planks I have. But I’m still not good at identifying wood types.
If you do your own thing, just remember not to cover the rabbets cut into the stem and keel.
Just a note, before I begin planking with these nicely preformed planks ...
..
Last time I built a similar 1:24 scale ship, it was the Longboat, and I had to slowly, and painstakingly, shape the planks myself ...
So, I'll miss that, a bit. But, OTOH, I'm looking forward to using these preformed planks. The dryfit of the first two planks was perfect.
..
Last time I built a similar 1:24 scale ship, it was the Longboat, and I had to slowly, and painstakingly, shape the planks myself ...
So, I'll miss that, a bit. But, OTOH, I'm looking forward to using these preformed planks. The dryfit of the first two planks was perfect.
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Started the planking - with planks 1 (garboard) and 2 on both sides glued in. The instructions provide no info on handling the bow. And they have two diff attachment methods - butting up against the stem with a slight bevel on the tip of the plank, or inserting the plank tip into the rabbets cut through the stem.
But - the rabbets aren't everywhere - so you either have to extend the plank into the rabbet or butt it up against the stem. So, I don't think I can do this bow, without using a bit of wood putty on it, after all the planks are mounted.
Here's what I mean - the tip of the plank is over the rabbet, the bulk of the plank has a rabbet - but right behind the plank tip there's no rabbet. On one side, I extended this rabbet back towards the rabbet behind the tip (that's the rabbet running almost the whole length of the keel - it stops an inch or so before this first cutout rabbet. And on the other side - I did nothing. When I fit planks 1 on each side - they both pretty much fit the same - with or without the rabbet being extended. Confusing. Anyway - they look good - and I don't think I'm building in any errors. We'll see.
And here's a couple pics of those first two planks (gonna be sanding a lot of CA- off of those planks. But that comes after I finish putting all the nails in.
And a closeup
Since I took these pics, I prepped planks 3-7 and will be placing those ... sometime.
BTW - these pear wood planks bend readily - only need to dip em in the water - then start massaging them into shape - heat helps with the sharper curves.
Also note that I'm drawing the nailing guidelines as I go. I hate doing this. Because normally, I like to sand the planks as I go along - so I can see that it's taking shape properly - that I'm doing everything right. But now I have to wait to sand the hull until after I put the nails in - and no longer need those penciled in nailing guidelines.
But - the rabbets aren't everywhere - so you either have to extend the plank into the rabbet or butt it up against the stem. So, I don't think I can do this bow, without using a bit of wood putty on it, after all the planks are mounted.
Here's what I mean - the tip of the plank is over the rabbet, the bulk of the plank has a rabbet - but right behind the plank tip there's no rabbet. On one side, I extended this rabbet back towards the rabbet behind the tip (that's the rabbet running almost the whole length of the keel - it stops an inch or so before this first cutout rabbet. And on the other side - I did nothing. When I fit planks 1 on each side - they both pretty much fit the same - with or without the rabbet being extended. Confusing. Anyway - they look good - and I don't think I'm building in any errors. We'll see.
And here's a couple pics of those first two planks (gonna be sanding a lot of CA- off of those planks. But that comes after I finish putting all the nails in.
And a closeup
Since I took these pics, I prepped planks 3-7 and will be placing those ... sometime.
BTW - these pear wood planks bend readily - only need to dip em in the water - then start massaging them into shape - heat helps with the sharper curves.
Also note that I'm drawing the nailing guidelines as I go. I hate doing this. Because normally, I like to sand the planks as I go along - so I can see that it's taking shape properly - that I'm doing everything right. But now I have to wait to sand the hull until after I put the nails in - and no longer need those penciled in nailing guidelines.
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Yeah. Thx. Was using that line mark, but missed the part where they showed beveling the stem to those lines. Easier than actually cutting a rabbet. But I already have 3 planks on each side now. And I already beveled the plank tip on one of the #3 planks … looks better than the other #3 plank tip, which I’d left straight.
So …when I get back to it, I’ll decide whether to bevel the #4 and #5 plank tips, or the stem.
After that I don’t think it matters, as the plank tips will drop into the precut rabbet slots.
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Good morning Tim. Lovely work so far. I am pulling up a chair here. Thanks for sharing. Cheers Grant
Yahoo - planks 1-4 are in, both sides. Not as clean as I'd have liked. But nothing I can't live with, or that won't just disappear in the final hull sanding - after the nails are in.
The bow ...
Closeup of the bow ...
the middle (still gotta pencil in the nail lines on the #4 planks) ...
and bringing up the rear, the stern ...
I'm hoping some water will raise those indentations in starboard plank #2.
The bow ...
Closeup of the bow ...
the middle (still gotta pencil in the nail lines on the #4 planks) ...
and bringing up the rear, the stern ...
I'm hoping some water will raise those indentations in starboard plank #2.
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Very nice work Tim, she's coming along beautifully.
A trick we use in the furniture industry is to heat up a clothes iron to cotton setting. Then fold a paper towel into quarters and wet a corner of it so that it is saturated, but not dripping. Place the wet corner on the dents and put the tip of the iron on the towel to produce steam. Remove the iron when the towel is dry so you don't scorch it. You may have to repeat a couple of times, but this usually gets out most dents, unless the fibers have been damaged or torn, i.e. the wood was scratched, not dented.
A trick we use in the furniture industry is to heat up a clothes iron to cotton setting. Then fold a paper towel into quarters and wet a corner of it so that it is saturated, but not dripping. Place the wet corner on the dents and put the tip of the iron on the towel to produce steam. Remove the iron when the towel is dry so you don't scorch it. You may have to repeat a couple of times, but this usually gets out most dents, unless the fibers have been damaged or torn, i.e. the wood was scratched, not dented.
Thx. I'll try the steam, if just using water doesn't do it.