1/30 HMS Royal Caroline Build

What a good way of putting it Rick! This is the voice of true experience tempered with objectivity, modesty and the kind of constructive criticism that model kit companies should do well to heed. I agree 100% with your observations of your Chinese kits. There is still a long way to go.
 
WIP Update-
Before continuing the Bulwark Planking, I needed to extend the Transom (Piece #16). The kits stock size stern was approx. 6mm to short. This would have caused the Stern window section of the carvings to not be flush at the bottom of the Transom and would have caused misalignment issues with the Stern Bay windows Port & Starboard and other Stern carvings not to mention having a 6mm gap that would be clearly visible around the Rudder.
I like to cut the exposed Bulkhead ends that will be removed later on in half. This helps tremendously later on when the time comes to remove them all the way. I put Green tape on the Bulkhead ends to help ensure no or little glue gets on them when planking.
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WIP UPDATE---
Here is some pics of the Forecastle. You can see if you don't cut off approx. 5mm of the Bulkhead Timbers, the Forecastle sits way to high and not taper to Midships & you would have to add at least 2 more Planks and that would really mess up the Carvings Layout.
I most likely will not end up using the Deck Beam 2A Hanging Beam as the kit shows. Should just be Hanging Knees on the Forecastle Bulwarks that supports the Deck Beams and not the exposed Frame/Knee combo the kit has you do.
NOTE-- The Deck Beam 2A has not been cut down 5mm yet. Just reference pics
 

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WIP UPDATE---
All the (Rough) final Outer Strakes Planking Completed!!!!!
Next Order of business before Fine Tuning, Touch Ups & completing the Hulls Final Fairing will be to Draw Out all Gun Ports, Windows & Misc. Items, Tree Nails, Waterways, Inside Bulwarks Planking and the Siding (Inside & Out) Main Cabin........................
 

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WIP---
I wanted to get the Cabin Roof Shaped in order to get the Bulwarks cut to the correct size along the Hulls Strakes. Old garage outside metal Liner Trash can works great for forming the Cabin Roof after Steaming it!!!!!! I had to Re-make Parts 17D & 17E (See Photo) because the kit parts weren't even close to the correct size needed!!!
The Funny thing is the supplied color photo brochure included with the model kit clearly shows 17D & 17E not even being used??????
 

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WIP Update-
Continuing with the Cabin Work, The Companion Way Deck Top Opening had a fit issue!!! The Opening for the Stairs that lead to below Deck has to be a minimum of 25mm. With that being said, the Port Bulkhead does not sit flush to the edge of the Cabin Roof. I had to add a 3mm piece of filler. I will be adding a window to the Bulkhead wall and drew out the rough dimensions.
 

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WIP UPDATE--
I can't emphasize enough that you must Test Fit, Test Fit, Test Fit & TEST FIT before any openings are cut out!!!!!!!!!
DO NOT TRUST the plans because each sheet is of a different scale and the only Plan I used that was somewhat usable was the Plan showing the Carving Layout. I am marking out the Port & Starboard Cabin Window Cutouts and I am working Midships to the Stern. I want to cut out all openings before I start the Treenail process.
 

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There seems to be a lot of fiddling required to bring out the best in the kit. This is really a fascinating build Rick.
Unfortunately Yes!!! With how expensive this kit is, there shouldn't be this many fit issues up to this point!! The Plans and their different Scales is what drives me BONKERS, LOL!!!! But Hey, at the end of the Day, I am grateful that I can sit here & complain and So Very Grateful I could get this kit!
I plan on doing a full kit evaluation when the model gets completed!!!!
 
A kit evaluation makes a lot of sense as it provides a good synopsis to prospective builders out there. I do think, however, that such an evaluation should be matched to the builder's specific objectives as those are not the same for everyone. To an expert builder who is seeking as much accuracy as possible, a kit may be found wanting, while it might be perfectly good for the Average Joe who is seeking a result which will please the eye and be the envy of his non-expert friends.
 
A kit evaluation makes a lot of sense as it provides a good synopsis to prospective builders out there. I do think, however, that such an evaluation should be matched to the builder's specific objectives as those are not the same for everyone. To an expert builder who is seeking as much accuracy as possible, a kit may be found wanting, while it might be perfectly good for the Average Joe who is seeking a result which will please the eye and be the envy of his non-expert friends.
WELL SAID !!!!!!!!!
 
WIP UPDATE--
After spending the last 3 days test fitting Carvings, On & Off, On & Off, I am now comfortable that I have the proper location for ALL the Day Cabin Windows & Gun Ports & the main Hull Carvings marked out. I will now proceed to marking out the Water Line & start the Tree Nail Process before moving on to the Stem, Keel & Stern Post Veneer Coverings & then onto the inside Bulwarks Planking.
 

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WIP UPDATE--
After spending the last 3 days test fitting Carvings, On & Off, On & Off, I am now comfortable that I have the proper location for ALL the Day Cabin Windows & Gun Ports & the main Hull Carvings marked out. I will now proceed to marking out the Water Line & start the Tree Nail Process before moving on to the Stem, Keel & Stern Post Veneer Coverings & then onto the inside Bulwarks Planking.
It is all about playing with the position of the windows and gun ports in relation to the position of the wales. As you said don t trust the drawings but go for aesthetics and correct heights to the decks.
 
It is all about playing with the position of the windows and gun ports in relation to the position of the wales. As you said don t trust the drawings but go for aesthetics and correct heights to the decks.
That is 100% Correct Maarten!!! You understand & Your RC is Looking GREAT!!!!!!!!!
 
WIP UPDATE-
1st Initial Water Level Line Drawn on each side. Next Step is determining Frame Locations. I am using the Plans I have from the Greenwich Museum to get a close proximity. I use a cheap old Carpenters Laser to Insure the Frames are Level in relation to the Hull being Level Vertically & Horizontally. The Point 0 on the Greenwich Plans is the Point of "Balance & Levelness" for the ship. I then attach a 6mm automotive Pin stripping Tape to the Laser Line. I will be Marking Out a Treenail Point on each side of the Tape after all the Frames are marked out. After I mark out all the needed Treenails, I will then drill out & Install a 1mm Treenail.
When a Treenail is installed on each side of the tape, it scales out perfectly to 8 inches (as in the plan)!!!!20210611_223515.jpg20210611_223520.jpg20210611_223534.jpg20210611_223612.jpg20210611_223803.jpg20210611_223813.jpg20210611_234927.jpg20210612_215249.jpg20210612_215023.jpg20210612_215035.jpg20210612_215400.jpg20210612_215426.jpg20210612_215609.jpg
 
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