Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Is stacking alignment based on straight keel as I see the inside stack has gaps between frames and the 90 frame used.
1682 HMY FUBBS - 1:24 - Stern Section [COMPLETED BUILD]
Hi Daniel,
I have to confess my utter confusion. What is controlling/guiding/ the stacking process?
I have to confess my utter confusion. What is controlling/guiding/ the stacking process?
Hi Kurt
I an not sure if I understand your questions, but let me see:
No, is it based on the frame shape and hull internal floor. Because the frames have already a "first beveling", they already have a natural shape. They will fit one over the other with absolutely no problem. The final adjustment concerning position i did it based on the interior hull bottom. You place the frames to be the interior bottom as much flat as you can, without losing the general frame position with the one below. Remember "the interior of the frames have also been beveled on the spindle sander". Nevertheless, neither the interior or exterior shape is still well shaped. I will need to spend a few days sanding , by hand, the interior and exterior of the hull.
I am lost here. What do you mean with frame gaps and 90 frame ?
Best
Daniel
Hi Paul
See my answer to Kurt and let me know if you get your answer there. If not I will try to find another way to explain it.
Daniel
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
The 90 degree square I said frame by error.
Your method of stacking is a bit clearer to me now that you have explained it.
I am just used to seeing them stacked on keel to provide alignment.
Here's my 5 cents worth. Portia T. I'm not even going to venture a try at her last name, explained in her book that this Navy board style or what she called I believe Single Foot Hook type of construction was chosen because being such a small ship the framing would have been light weight, I'll leave that for what it is. The idea of the Navy board style is to build the ship with no need for a jig. The full width frames are assembled over the templates which will theoretically make the width correct. If the beveling is done well each successive frame will just line up to complete the hull shape from there.
The new parts to be glued are on the bottom of the stack, and the square is used to make sure the stack is centered on the centerline of each pair. In the practicum it shows the pair of frames on the template which gives the centerline of the keel. You can put a spreader on the top end of the stack to mark the centerline of the ship as well. Daniel appears to be using the lines on the cutting mat to mark the center of the keel at the bottom frame instead of the template. The bevels then match up to control the rest of the shape.
The weird part that is confusing is it does leave the height the frames above the keel kind of floating around. Not really floating just dependent on the accuracy of the beveling. Being as these parts were all cnc cut; floor frames 25A through 31A should be level with the top of the keel. You can see that on the plan. I created a sheet for everyone that shows what the design dimension from the top of the keel to the bottom of full frames 25 through 37 would be by design. The tip of frame 37 should meet the point where the deadwood ends on the inner stern post.
Theoretically this relationship will just happen if the beveling of the frames is correct. I'm also struggling with the just glue it together idea,
; I can't get away from my natural instinct to measure everything. So I'll use the drawing below when I get to mine ad see how that works.
With 10 people building this it will be interesting to see how they turn out. On the prototype this resulted in the rise of the back of the ship being a little flat. Some guys will do this free form like the prototype and like Daniel is doing here. Mike 41 is using his build board gantry on MSB. I'm a total engineer type so mine will be over measured to match the design exactly, to the best of my abilities. This project has been an interesting experiment so far. The rear from frame 37 back including the fashion pieces, flying transom, taffrail, window section etc is all machined to fit exactly. How much modification will be required will depend on how closely the framing matches the design. Particularly the rise of frames 31 through 37.
The new parts to be glued are on the bottom of the stack, and the square is used to make sure the stack is centered on the centerline of each pair. In the practicum it shows the pair of frames on the template which gives the centerline of the keel. You can put a spreader on the top end of the stack to mark the centerline of the ship as well. Daniel appears to be using the lines on the cutting mat to mark the center of the keel at the bottom frame instead of the template. The bevels then match up to control the rest of the shape.
The weird part that is confusing is it does leave the height the frames above the keel kind of floating around. Not really floating just dependent on the accuracy of the beveling. Being as these parts were all cnc cut; floor frames 25A through 31A should be level with the top of the keel. You can see that on the plan. I created a sheet for everyone that shows what the design dimension from the top of the keel to the bottom of full frames 25 through 37 would be by design. The tip of frame 37 should meet the point where the deadwood ends on the inner stern post.
Theoretically this relationship will just happen if the beveling of the frames is correct. I'm also struggling with the just glue it together idea,
; I can't get away from my natural instinct to measure everything. So I'll use the drawing below when I get to mine ad see how that works.
With 10 people building this it will be interesting to see how they turn out. On the prototype this resulted in the rise of the back of the ship being a little flat. Some guys will do this free form like the prototype and like Daniel is doing here. Mike 41 is using his build board gantry on MSB. I'm a total engineer type so mine will be over measured to match the design exactly, to the best of my abilities. This project has been an interesting experiment so far. The rear from frame 37 back including the fashion pieces, flying transom, taffrail, window section etc is all machined to fit exactly. How much modification will be required will depend on how closely the framing matches the design. Particularly the rise of frames 31 through 37.
Its very exciting to see this all come together after a years planning and manufacture.
Great work, Daniel. You‘ve got this!
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Ditto
Thats looking awesome, and it makes it easy to follow along with my Fubbs build.
Happy Sanding
The result is looking already very good - I guess you will put now the power tools to the side and the rest will be done by hand
I would be too afraid to remove too much with such Black&Decker sander
The result is looking already very good - I guess you will put now the power tools to the side and the rest will be done by hand
I would be too afraid to remove too much with such Black&Decker sander
Thank you Uwek.
Yes, you are correct. The big exterior sanding has,already been done. A few details, only seen when you have the hull in your hands and looks it very carefully turning it around, will be done by hand.
On another note, all the frames are 0.5 inches thick (12.7 mm). I wasn't afraid of sanding a few mm to have a smooth hull and I needed to sand until all the char was gone of the hull visible sections. A 80W laser went through 0.5 " cherry wood (soft wood), so char was significant. The upper frames sections, as you can see, they still have char. Those are thinner and will be planked. I sanded to smooth them, that's all.
Cheers
Daniel
Ditto
Thank you all !!!
Best to all
Daniel
