Damm you Mike! I was looking the the 'station' and thinking how graceful and hoe well it was built. But after reading your post, my eye went to the curly maple and not on the model.
Havagooday to all
Greg
17th Century Battle Station - HMS Mordaunt, 1:32 - DocBlake
Havagooday to all
Greg
The choosen woods are beautiful, especially at daylight......great choosen
Looks great Dave, You and Mike are pretty much even in the race
Thanks, Don!
I spent yesterday finishing up the framing of the upper deck. T
he three of us had a lot of discussion as to the accuracy of the deck framing. In general English framing, each deck beam has a lodging knee and a hanging knee, and all the lodging knees face the same way until amidships, where the knees start facing the opposite direction. This corresponds to the point where the futtocks of the framing reverse, and the floors start facing the opposite direction. The main mast should be located near here also. We came to the conclusion that the framing of the upper deck on this model was stylized, and also altered to accommodate the two lower gun ports. Mike objected to the lack of symmetry, and proposed the pattern you see on the photos. I followed suit. It really doesn't make any difference since the center of the upper deck will be planked over. I've included the plan sheet for the upper deck framing with the other photos.
I spent yesterday finishing up the framing of the upper deck. T
he three of us had a lot of discussion as to the accuracy of the deck framing. In general English framing, each deck beam has a lodging knee and a hanging knee, and all the lodging knees face the same way until amidships, where the knees start facing the opposite direction. This corresponds to the point where the futtocks of the framing reverse, and the floors start facing the opposite direction. The main mast should be located near here also. We came to the conclusion that the framing of the upper deck on this model was stylized, and also altered to accommodate the two lower gun ports. Mike objected to the lack of symmetry, and proposed the pattern you see on the photos. I followed suit. It really doesn't make any difference since the center of the upper deck will be planked over. I've included the plan sheet for the upper deck framing with the other photos.
It is realy looking great.....and thanks for the detailed explanation, understood!
One question:
I the drawing we can see in one field of two beams two half holes on each beam, also visible at one photo on one beam.
What are these for?
One question:
I the drawing we can see in one field of two beams two half holes on each beam, also visible at one photo on one beam.
What are these for?
Thanks, Uwe!
The outboard hole is for a eyebolt for attaching the tackle (2 blocks) that operate the line controlling the gun port lid. The inboard hole is for a cleat to which that line is belayed..
The outboard hole is for a eyebolt for attaching the tackle (2 blocks) that operate the line controlling the gun port lid. The inboard hole is for a cleat to which that line is belayed..
Very nice job so far Dave!!
Thanks, Zoly.
Today I cut and fit the hanging knees. There are just three: one each at the two end deck beams and one at the center one. To fit them, they must bear against the hull planking and the deck
beam, and the must be notched out for the lodging knees and the deck clamp. I made a template, traced the final result onto my hanging knee blanks, cut out the notches on my scroll saw, and final-fit them with a sanding stick and some files.
Today I cut and fit the hanging knees. There are just three: one each at the two end deck beams and one at the center one. To fit them, they must bear against the hull planking and the deck
beam, and the must be notched out for the lodging knees and the deck clamp. I made a template, traced the final result onto my hanging knee blanks, cut out the notches on my scroll saw, and final-fit them with a sanding stick and some files.
Don turned 6 support columns for each of us, and as it happened, we all chose a different design. The extra one is insurance against our propensity to screw things up! The first photo shows the three sets of blanks.
I cut mine slightly (1/32") long so I could fine tune the fit to any irregularities in the upper deck beams or lower deck surface. The dry fit worked out well. the columns were then numbered on the bottom so they go back in the right place. Each was trimmed/sanded so all 5 rested on the lower deck, and none were "suspended " in air!
I cut mine slightly (1/32") long so I could fine tune the fit to any irregularities in the upper deck beams or lower deck surface. The dry fit worked out well. the columns were then numbered on the bottom so they go back in the right place. Each was trimmed/sanded so all 5 rested on the lower deck, and none were "suspended " in air!
G'day Dave
Love your workmanship mate. I'm glad that I'm not voting to pick the best of the three Modelteers models. There are no COMPASSION in all of yu'all skills level. They are all marvelous.
Keep up your very high standards mate.
Greg
Love your workmanship mate. I'm glad that I'm not voting to pick the best of the three Modelteers models. There are no COMPASSION in all of yu'all skills level. They are all marvelous.
Keep up your very high standards mate.
Greg
I wiped poly on all the parts after pinning and gluing the support columns to the deck beams. I used epoxy, and the joints are very strong. The upper deck/column assembly will simply be glued to the deck clamp and lower deck. The fit is perfect and no pinning is necessary.
The hatch grating is boxwood and laser cut. The coaming is rosewood with half lap joints at the corners. There is a small "shelf" under the coaming to support the grating. It just drops into place. Both have poly on them.
The hatch grating is boxwood and laser cut. The coaming is rosewood with half lap joints at the corners. There is a small "shelf" under the coaming to support the grating. It just drops into place. Both have poly on them.
G'day Dave
Fantabulous mate.
Greg
Just absolutely beautiful is all that I can say.
You should be very proud mate. No one would see the pin joints, but knowing it's there is the main thing that we modelers want.Fantabulous mate.
Greg
All I can say Dave is WOW!! Have to agree with Greg, you should be proud.
Mike
Mike
She is really looking interesting now Dave, nice work!!
I finished planking the upper deck, installed the hatch coamings and the upper hatch and finished off the shot racks. The upper deck is just sitting in place. It won't be installed until the guns and details on the lower deck are complete. It is tight in there! The 2 hanging knees at the ends will be glued in place once the upper deck is in place. Next is the guns.
Fantabulous mate!
G'day DaveFor a small model, you and the other Modelteers have put a lot of effort and incedable amount of fine details into it.
The workmanship that you displayed is to the highest degree.
But I do have one question though. Why is there a grate on the lower deck and no ladder to the top deck?
Happymodeling
Greg
Hi Greg!
The lower deck or "gun deck' commonly had grating to ventilate the decks below, whether another gun deck or the orlop deck. There is framing on the upper deck on the right side where the ladder to the gun deck goes. I just haven't gotten to it yet!
The lower deck or "gun deck' commonly had grating to ventilate the decks below, whether another gun deck or the orlop deck. There is framing on the upper deck on the right side where the ladder to the gun deck goes. I just haven't gotten to it yet!
Thanks Dave for your explanation. As the children of today would say.
Greg
My bad!
Happymodeling Greg
It is looking great - WOW
BTW: These gratings weight a lot and I think some of them could only be lifted with the help of a yard-arm or pulley-tackles...
BTW: These gratings weight a lot and I think some of them could only be lifted with the help of a yard-arm or pulley-tackles...