A Dutch Fluyt in shell first, reconstructing the "Ghost ship" scale 1:36
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Fantastic work, I appreciate your work methods and the willingness to share with us and thus you help us to improve our abilities.
Hi Stephan, I am still looking into this. I have made the complete part as it is easier to shape the complete part. If neede I will remove a small part of it and fit in the new piece.
As this is a smaller ship these parts could be made out of one part, but larger wood parts are more valuable so the questions is if they did it like this.
The wreck of the Fluyt Anna Maria looks like two parts on the stem and stern post. However Anna Maria is much bigger.
On the Den Helder Pinas the stern post is build of it looks like 3 parts, the stem post seems to be one piece.
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It depends on the thickness of the tree and if they can make it in one piece. I work with woodpieces that have a max. width of 28 mm so I had to splice it up.
Yes these where made of a lot of parts, I was thinking about the drawings of Blom or Dik where there was a details drawing. It could also be in Abel Tasman ships where I found. I dive into it too find where.
One tip, make the keel of 1 piece and make fake joints. Don't cut him, building this way is a lot of stress on the keel clamping things.
Edit there is a nice picture of a stern in Ab's books
And also in the drawings of Blom
How I made that part, inspire on Blom
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Based on the wreck data and the witsen drawings I decided to split my stern post in three parts.
First drawing a line to create the biggest part curved with more or less equal width.
Then the proxxon band saw can do its job.
The part remove can t be reused and two new filler pieces are made to properly fit in.
Dry fitting the assembly.
I glue these parts with brown coloured pva to simulate Stockholmer tar caulking.
See below the black vs the braun pva.
The brown pva used to glue the parts together on a glass plate.
After sanding.
At last I add the wooden dowel to fit into the keel during assembly.
The keel I make of two parts, a long and a short part to avoid the main mast step will rest on the joint.
The small part will be on the aft side.
I have made the cut in the keel and did not make a simulation joint as there was a week spot in my keel which I now removed.
The keel joint is 5 times the keel width according to Witsen.
I cut the keel joints with the Proxxon band saw and finished them with a miniature diamond file by hand.
Again glued with brown pva on top of a glass plate to keep everyting alligned.
Next time finishing the keel and creating the box joint for the stem in Dutch the kinnebak.
First drawing a line to create the biggest part curved with more or less equal width.
Then the proxxon band saw can do its job.
The part remove can t be reused and two new filler pieces are made to properly fit in.
Dry fitting the assembly.
I glue these parts with brown coloured pva to simulate Stockholmer tar caulking.
See below the black vs the braun pva.
The brown pva used to glue the parts together on a glass plate.
After sanding.
At last I add the wooden dowel to fit into the keel during assembly.
The keel I make of two parts, a long and a short part to avoid the main mast step will rest on the joint.
The small part will be on the aft side.
I have made the cut in the keel and did not make a simulation joint as there was a week spot in my keel which I now removed.
The keel joint is 5 times the keel width according to Witsen.
I cut the keel joints with the Proxxon band saw and finished them with a miniature diamond file by hand.
Again glued with brown pva on top of a glass plate to keep everyting alligned.
Next time finishing the keel and creating the box joint for the stem in Dutch the kinnebak.
Maarten, I love your band saw, your work shop and your attention to detail. The photo of the Den Helder Pinas is amazing also. We are all learning so much! Magic Mike
A straight forward start, Maarten. Nice you are mentioning the Stockholmer Tar. A deja-vu. A long time ago we used that on the windmill to 'tar' some wooden parts. Now banned for a long time to use. And no modern means that can now serve as a good replacement. But your alternative looks very natural.
Regards, Peter
Hi Mike thx for the comments and if you are interested in the Pinas which is called wreck E81, you can find a lot of data here. The actual shop was named Samuel and sunk at the end of the 17th century. She was found in the 1960's in a field, this as this part of the Netherlands is reclaimed land now where it was still the sea bottom untill 1924.
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Hi Peter,
Stockholmer tar is still available, I have ran some test of tarring ropes with it and it works, you have to add some siccative and turpentine to it otherwise it will never dry.
Your ropes realy get that authentic shipyard smell but when you are sitting the whole day in that smell you wil certainly get a headache.
The stem post is connected to the keel with a wood joint. Witsen is describing the kinnebak joint for the Pinas build he describes in his book.
On the Den Helder pinas, called E81 or most probably the ship Samuel that sunk in 1662, there is a similar stem post joint which you can see in the archeological drawing below.
The Samuel is from the same time and size as my fluyt build, Samuel was also shell first build for which proof has been found in the planking.
For me this can be the reason to choose the same type of joint for my stem post.
Witsen
And the Samuel which seems to be a slightly simplified version.
![[MA]T-133455.jpg](https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/data/attachments/355/355122-8b77dd99c3392dca3327506facd73dd0.jpg "[MA]T-133455.jpg")
On the Den Helder pinas, called E81 or most probably the ship Samuel that sunk in 1662, there is a similar stem post joint which you can see in the archeological drawing below.
The Samuel is from the same time and size as my fluyt build, Samuel was also shell first build for which proof has been found in the planking.
For me this can be the reason to choose the same type of joint for my stem post.
Witsen
And the Samuel which seems to be a slightly simplified version.
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The data of the Samuel is also interesting for my keel joint.
This joint is bolted with bolts, tree nails and iron nails. See some of the keel joint archeological drawings below.
The big black dots are bolts, the white circles are tree nails and the small black dots are nails.
You can also see the shape of the rabbet in the keel.
This joint is bolted with bolts, tree nails and iron nails. See some of the keel joint archeological drawings below.
The big black dots are bolts, the white circles are tree nails and the small black dots are nails.
You can also see the shape of the rabbet in the keel.
While working on the stem I found a strange mismatch in my water line drawings compared to the scale printed archeological drawings.
My waterline drawing printed in 1:36 scale showed a different lenght to width ratio of the hull. 4,2 instead of 3,8.
After a lot of seatching I found out that the import of the archeological drawings into my 3 d drawing program changed the ratio of the drawings meaning my 3d model was to small. Also the stem post was at the wrong angle and should be steaper.
To solve this I have corrected the ratio on the waterline drawings and made a new stempost.
After this correction I could finally cut the keel to its correct length followed by sanding it into shape. The keel is tapered in width from the centre frame towards fwd and aft from 10,2 mm centre to 6.8 mm fwd and aft.
The band sander comes in handy here.
I mill a rabbet line into the parts for cutting the rabbet later in the proces.
The joint of the stem post and keel I copy from the Den Helder Pinas Samuel which is of the same age and size as my build.
At the stern I have made the knee to support the stern post. For this I used Ab Hovings drawing of the flute Zeehaen. It is a perfect fit
Finally glueing together.
My waterline drawing printed in 1:36 scale showed a different lenght to width ratio of the hull. 4,2 instead of 3,8.
After a lot of seatching I found out that the import of the archeological drawings into my 3 d drawing program changed the ratio of the drawings meaning my 3d model was to small. Also the stem post was at the wrong angle and should be steaper.
To solve this I have corrected the ratio on the waterline drawings and made a new stempost.
After this correction I could finally cut the keel to its correct length followed by sanding it into shape. The keel is tapered in width from the centre frame towards fwd and aft from 10,2 mm centre to 6.8 mm fwd and aft.
The band sander comes in handy here.
I mill a rabbet line into the parts for cutting the rabbet later in the proces.
The joint of the stem post and keel I copy from the Den Helder Pinas Samuel which is of the same age and size as my build.
At the stern I have made the knee to support the stern post. For this I used Ab Hovings drawing of the flute Zeehaen. It is a perfect fit
Finally glueing together.
While the glue on the keel, stem and stern dries work on the yard floor continues.
I prepare a 17th century yard. The keel is stacked on blocks of oak.
On Dutch yards the keel was stacked sagging, curved downward approximate 1/2 the thicknes of the keel. This was done as the bouyancy in the centre of the hull is higher and the keel would be straight while the ship was in the water.
Secondly a Dutch ship had "stuurlast" which means she is deeper in the water at the stern.
This stuurlast I have already set up in my blocks.
I set up the keel on 5 blocks, the rest is filled in when the keel is positioned. The keel is locked in place by adding small board clamping the keel snug fit.
The result of all of this is every block is different in height and tailor made.
At stem and stern post a tripod of beams is setup to support the stem and stern post.
The yard floor is finished.
The keel is placed on the blocks.
I have made a clamp around the stem and stern instead of nailing the wooden poles directly in the stem and stern post. This as I want to be able to remove it easily.
Here you can clearly see the sagging of the keel.
And the top view.
Next time a knee for the stem post. Fitting all bolts and treenails. Carving depth marks etc.
I prepare a 17th century yard. The keel is stacked on blocks of oak.
On Dutch yards the keel was stacked sagging, curved downward approximate 1/2 the thicknes of the keel. This was done as the bouyancy in the centre of the hull is higher and the keel would be straight while the ship was in the water.
Secondly a Dutch ship had "stuurlast" which means she is deeper in the water at the stern.
This stuurlast I have already set up in my blocks.
I set up the keel on 5 blocks, the rest is filled in when the keel is positioned. The keel is locked in place by adding small board clamping the keel snug fit.
The result of all of this is every block is different in height and tailor made.
At stem and stern post a tripod of beams is setup to support the stem and stern post.
The yard floor is finished.
The keel is placed on the blocks.
I have made a clamp around the stem and stern instead of nailing the wooden poles directly in the stem and stern post. This as I want to be able to remove it easily.
Here you can clearly see the sagging of the keel.
And the top view.
Next time a knee for the stem post. Fitting all bolts and treenails. Carving depth marks etc.
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Really wonderful progress. Is the jig only for building the model or also later for the presentation?
A major step and nice to see: the keel is laid. And it’s important that you found out the problem with the stem post and made the re-do at this time. A solid yard as a base to build, Maarten. And you can slide that base into your car next september.
Regards, Peter
Hi Christian,
In principle only for building but maybe I will use it as a stand in the future if I still like it then
I wanted to create the idea of a 17th century yard when taking pictures during the building process, therefore I put some more effort into my building board.
That is the reason I already started this build, promisses to keep
Ok Maarten, now I know why my Vasa incorperated the sloping keel. I never really understood it before, even though she was a Swedish ship she was designed by a Dutch master builder.
Thanks.
Interesting way - and very interesting to follow your work and the construction method
Very nice work indeed Maarten
Should your keel support blocks not be surrounded by Mud to be a true recreation?
Only kidding but there's a thought for a diorama
Kind Regards
Nigel
Should your keel support blocks not be surrounded by Mud to be a true recreation?
Only kidding but there's a thought for a dioramaKind Regards
Nigel