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A Dutch Fluyt in shell first, reconstructing the "Ghost ship" scale 1:36
- Thread starter Maarten
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- dutch fluit
I’m just now reading through your log Maarten, it’s fascinating.
Martin, very nice and detailed work on the keel, I am particularly fascinated by the stuffing of the holes with moss because you will never see it. I love details like that.
Thx all for your comments and likes.
Hi Tobias,
Think thats all about modeling, guess we have to be a little crazy to put time in details we never see afterwards, part of the hobby.
When I was a little kit me and my brother build a lot of Italiery 1:24 scale trucks on rainy days during our holidays. He even never bothered to put in the engine as he said you will never see it.
But knowing these kind of details are there is satisfying. It is just fun to do.
Oh yes I know that too well. I only think of the nails in the frames at La Palme, one half will never be seen again and as you say "we know that they exist". You can be a little crazy.
Oeps
Time for a joint in the stem
This is what Witsen mentions about the stem joint.
The joint thickness on the end should be 1/4 of the stem thickness.
The lenght of the joint should ne the same as the width of the stem.
After sawing on the proxxon bandsaw I flatten the surfaces with a large chisel.
Until a perfect fit.
Both surfaces finished.
And glued together with brown pva.
The sten was not yet sanded which I now do after the glue joint dried. This enables you to get a perfect fit of the parts on the outer surfaces. The result is shown below.
Next is the rabbet and the bolts etc.
Time for a joint in the stem
This is what Witsen mentions about the stem joint.
The joint thickness on the end should be 1/4 of the stem thickness.
The lenght of the joint should ne the same as the width of the stem.
After sawing on the proxxon bandsaw I flatten the surfaces with a large chisel.
Until a perfect fit.
Both surfaces finished.
And glued together with brown pva.
The sten was not yet sanded which I now do after the glue joint dried. This enables you to get a perfect fit of the parts on the outer surfaces. The result is shown below.
Next is the rabbet and the bolts etc.
On the inside yes, on the outside no.
Witsen describes the outside is 3/4 to 4/5 of the inside. But on my wreck data the top of the stem on the fluyts are just as thick on the outside as on the inside.
What I have done is I kept the outside 3/4 of the inside at the bottom which is gradually increasing towards the top as being 1:1.
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, I ask because a Pinas and a 2 decker get smaller to the front. Don't know about the Fluyt. 
That was a pain in the ass to get that right. Mostly you don't see that on a model. And they only let the galleon go smaller on the end. And leave the stem indeed in one thickness.
If it was a real shipyard we would already have been fired.That's a very nice re-do, Maarten. But that is evident from scratch.
Regards, Peter
.
After a week of travelling for work, back in the workshop for a few hours.
Work is bolting the stem joint. The bolt pattern I have taken from Witsen and Vasa. A cross pattern.
First I drill the holes for the nails on the edges of the joint. Same as with the keel joint.
Nails fitted, 0,35 mm anealed wire.
For clenching the bolts I made a cup shaped nail.
See the surface on the already clenched bolts. The other side of the bolt is knive rolled.
After a layer of Clou followed by steelwool sanding the bolts are burnished.
Leading to the result below.
Work is bolting the stem joint. The bolt pattern I have taken from Witsen and Vasa. A cross pattern.
First I drill the holes for the nails on the edges of the joint. Same as with the keel joint.
Nails fitted, 0,35 mm anealed wire.
For clenching the bolts I made a cup shaped nail.
See the surface on the already clenched bolts. The other side of the bolt is knive rolled.
After a layer of Clou followed by steelwool sanding the bolts are burnished.
Leading to the result below.
Next are the depth markings in Amsterdam feet.
The example for the depth marks I took from the E81 wreck from again the pinas Samuel.
Stem
![[MA]T-133455.jpg](https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/data/attachments/359/359579-8b77dd99c3392dca3327506facd73dd0.jpg "[MA]T-133455.jpg")
Stern
You clearly see the different markings on SB and PS side, roman numerals on the SB side and alternative rotated roman numerals with dots on the PS side.
9 being VIIII is not a mistake but realy written like that.
On the bow the numerals are even in mirror image.
On my model first I measured the Amsterdam feet.
Set out the height of the roman numerals, which is 1/3 of an Amsterdam foot.
Followed by adding the roman numerals.
The 5 at the bottom I took also from the E81 wreck, here a 4 is carved, but this fluyt is deeper in the water so I changed it to 5 at 5 feet.
Next is carving resulting in my carved numerals.
Sanded away the pencil and added a layer of Clou following again by sanding.
On the PS side the carving is different as mentioned. The height of the carvings is here 1/4 of an Amsterdam foot.
The keel is finished
The example for the depth marks I took from the E81 wreck from again the pinas Samuel.
Stem
Stern
You clearly see the different markings on SB and PS side, roman numerals on the SB side and alternative rotated roman numerals with dots on the PS side.
9 being VIIII is not a mistake but realy written like that.
On the bow the numerals are even in mirror image.
On my model first I measured the Amsterdam feet.
Set out the height of the roman numerals, which is 1/3 of an Amsterdam foot.
Followed by adding the roman numerals.
The 5 at the bottom I took also from the E81 wreck, here a 4 is carved, but this fluyt is deeper in the water so I changed it to 5 at 5 feet.
Next is carving resulting in my carved numerals.
Sanded away the pencil and added a layer of Clou following again by sanding.
On the PS side the carving is different as mentioned. The height of the carvings is here 1/4 of an Amsterdam foot.
The keel is finished
A nicely and remarkable marking job, Maarten.
Regard, Peter
Now that's some mighty fine carving Maarten!
Thx Paul,
I should say Michael's chisels are perfect for this job, as long as you don t sneeze during carving.