AL Colonial Schooner "Independence" by DocBlake - 5/16" scale

DocBlake post_id=24556 time=1511352014 user_id=3544 said:
Thanks, guys!

Mustafa: Glue won,t stick to polyurethane or tung oil. I scrape off the finish to glue, then touch up the area with a little poly and a small brush. Or wait to apply the poly until after you glue.
Click to expand...

Thank you Dave.
 
After a lot of hand wringing I decided to go with traditional brass pedestals mounted on a walnut board for my display stand. I ran into a little problem in that my keel is a little off of dead vertical and when I mounted the model there was a definite, noticeable dip to starboard. I took the pedestals off and beveled their bases a bit until the model sat straight. Now I can begin rigging! If you look closely you can see the bevels (the arrows point them out) but I don't think the casual observer would notice unless I told themstand1.JPGstand2.JPGstand3.JPGped1.JPGped2.JPG
 
Know the feeling Dave, i also hate the rigging 2 reasons have not got the room, and the main reason do not know what I am doing, also some kits leave me scratching my head, on my Philadelphia Gunboat the show the deadeys heavyly stropped NO WAY TO DO THAT WITH THE SIZE OF THE DEADEYES, blocks to small to run the thread through, oh well. Don
 
Beautiful work. Saw your complete log @ https://modelshipworld.com/topic/12895-independence-1775-by-docblake-artesania-latina-516-scale/

Thank you for finishing it and your amazing log. Almost gave up. It is my 1st ever build and your log gave me the kick to keep it from the trash.

Funny about that stamped metal part. It spoke a lot about how disappointed I felt about the kit. Nothing seemed to fit or look right
The way you finished it I would leave the rigging out. It is a wonderful piece of art

Would love to see this link From Clair but it is 404 .Any way to retrieve it?
 
Your build is the perfect example of what it is possible to do with an average kit.
A pleasure to the eye Thumbsup
 
DocBlake said:
Here is a series of photos showing how I approached building the windlass. I took a piece of boxwood 3/8" square and cut it into an octagon on my table saw. The piece was cut to 3" in length (about 9'8" in scale). I measured in about an 1-1/8" from each end, and tapered the boxwood by sanding, maintaining the octagon profile. I measure and marked the rabbets for the supports and the center gear. They are all about 1/16' deep. Next, I cut the gear in the center to shape, using a #10 X-Acto blade. Last, I laid out where the holes for the lever rods would go and drilled 1/16" pilot holes at each location. I then took a nail that I had previously filed to a square point and tapped it into each hole, converting the round drill holes into square holes. In the photo, the holes on the left side of the windlass are still round. The windlass supports are rosewood with double timberheads cut into the top of each side.

Click to expand...
Almost every time that I scan through posts and forums I learn something new. . . square holes from a round nail after the initial drilling is a cleaver idea that has great results. Thanks.
For your precisely located deck treenailing holes are you using a drill press for accuracy or a hand pinvise drill approach? My own hand done attempts have some inconsistencies. PT-2
 
The hull cradle that has been present since build day one is very nice. Was it part of the kit or your own creation? As completion nears the cradle wood and appearance really go well with the hull. Nice touch in any event and well crafted as usual for your work. PT-2
 
I'm going to get this model finished. I decided that I don't want to rig her, so I plan to display her Navy Board style with stub masts and bowsprit. I likely won't rig the cannons, but I can be shamed into rigging one anchor! Photos tomorrow!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top